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Posted

Hello all, I am new to the forum and wanted to get some insight and advice on tipping my x100's. 

Let me explain how this started lol. I had an old set of Mizuno MP67's lying around that I decided to tinker with. I decided to try the "one swing plane" theory and cut all shafts to the same length. I liked the way the I hit them so decided to do the same to my gamer irons. I ordered all new DG X100s and have a question about tipping. I know that the 4 iron should be tipped 1.5 inches and a half an inch more for the 5-9 irons. I am cutting all irons to the length of my 7 iron, which should be tipped 3 inches. My question is, since all of my irons will be the same length, should I tip them all 3 inches so the flex is the same or should I tip them as I normally would if the clubs were different lengths? Also, I know the the swing weights will change and I will address that. Just want to a clear understanding on the tipping. BTW, the shafts are .370 parallel not the .355 taper. Thanks for the input in advance


Posted

Here's a link for trimming specs - http://www.golf-components.com/tip-trimming-instructions.html

Tip trimming, or stepping (soft or hard) gives a player the option for ball flight, higher or lower trajectory. It also make a shaft tip firmer or softer.

Basically, you'll need to decide the objective flight to achieve. A simple way to play around would be using a 7 iron regular shaft (per your preference) glue a 4 iron head on, hit it. Using Trackman would give you specific data, or just determine distant on course using GPS data. Also, note ball flight.

Next use a Stiff 7 iron shaft.

Do the same with other heads, if you like.

Also keep in mind, manufactures have different characteristics. Flex, kick points, etc.

You may reconsider using a shorter length for 8 - wedges. It's a fun idea, I considered the same thought 30 years ago.

Also, I recall a post a few years back. Erik had posted viewpoints on distance, spin, trajectory, etc. if I recall.

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Posted

Funny you should ask this question.  I asked a similar question on another forum just today.

I've played Single Length irons for about 2 years.  They are the only way to go.  I've built two sets.  About to build my third.  The first set was for me.  I cut all the shafts the same length with the same tipping as an 8 iron.  I later extended the length 1/2 inch to 7 iron length, but it had the same 8 iron tipping.  Therefore the S300's were stiffened 1 step.  They are really too stiff for the swing I want.

The second set I built for my son-in-law.  I cut all those shafts to 7 iron length and trimmed for a 5 iron (2 steps softer).  I played them a couple of times and really liked the feel much better than mine.  Hit them slightly longer too probably due to the softer tips and softer flex in general.  Still had good accuracy too.

I'm waiting for my pre-order of Pinhawks any day now.  I ordered FST 115 X/S combo shafts with a mid flex point.  I'm going to do the same thing as my second set.  I'll trim the tips for a 5 iron with the overall length of a 7 iron.  I'm a notorious low ball hitter and would like a little more air time.  Also, I'm going to additionally tip the 4,5,6 irons with the normal 1/2 inch increments that conventional irons have.  The 7,8,9,PW,SW,LW will have the 7 iron tip trim.  Don't want them too boardy.  My current "short" irons are like rebar.

PS, In the past I did the same thing you are doing with your Mizunos.  It didn't turn out well.  That's why I ordered the heads specifically made for Single Length.  But, you know you've got to tinker with those Mizuno's. :-)  Just don't get discouraged if they don't work like you hoped they would.  It's fairly easy to adjust the weights if you've got a swing weight scale.  Adjusting the lies are harder, at least for me.  I don't have the equipment to do that other than a vise and a hammer.  And not a real good gauge to measure lies either.

Good Luck!  Let us know how you fared.

Driver.......Ping K15 9.5* stiff 3 wood.....Ping K15 16* stiff 5 wood.....Ping K15 19* stiff 4 Hybrid...Cleveland Gliderail 23* stiff 5 - PW......Pinhawk SL GW...........Tommy Armour 52* SW...........Tommy Armour 56* LW...........Tommy Armour 60* FW...........Diamond Tour 68* Putter.......Golfsmith Dyna Mite Ball..........Volvik Vista iV Green Bag..........Bennington Quiet Organizer Shoes.... ..Crocs


Posted

Thanks for the input! Just a thought, have u guys considered cutting say your 4,5,6 and 7 to one length and leaving the 8,9 and pw standard length? I toyed with that too but don't want to waste my new shafts lol. I know it defeats the purpose of one swing plane but that's really why I started this whole thing, because of my struggle hitting long irons!


Posted
8 hours ago, Tiger105 said:

Thanks for the input! Just a thought, have u guys considered cutting say your 4,5,6 and 7 to one length and leaving the 8,9 and pw standard length? I toyed with that too but don't want to waste my new shafts lol. I know it defeats the purpose of one swing plane but that's really why I started this whole thing, because of my struggle hitting long irons!

Yeah, I did that years ago.  Didn't work out real well either.  The lie angle of conventional clubs that are shortened gets out of whack.  The shafts tend to get stiffer as well since the flex point will get higher and the shaft was originally tipped for a longer shaft.

Driver.......Ping K15 9.5* stiff 3 wood.....Ping K15 16* stiff 5 wood.....Ping K15 19* stiff 4 Hybrid...Cleveland Gliderail 23* stiff 5 - PW......Pinhawk SL GW...........Tommy Armour 52* SW...........Tommy Armour 56* LW...........Tommy Armour 60* FW...........Diamond Tour 68* Putter.......Golfsmith Dyna Mite Ball..........Volvik Vista iV Green Bag..........Bennington Quiet Organizer Shoes.... ..Crocs


Note: This thread is 3650 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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