Jump to content
IGNORED

Par 3s


Cizzle
Note: This thread is 5955 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

0  

  1. 1. Which way do you tee up for par 3s?

    • Higher up, no divot
      7
    • All the way in the ground, divot
      33


Recommended Posts

In Golf magazine, Retief Goosen did an article on how to be more sucessful on par 3s. One thing he said was to tee the ball up about half way up the face thus hitting a more pure shot and not creating a divot.

This method seems unorthodox, and seems that you would need to sweep instead of hitting down on the ball. I have always put my tee all the way in the ground, with the ball maybe being a 1/4 of an inch off the ground, and still creating a divot. That has worked fine so far, but next time I am at the range I am going to try this approach to see if it works better. Does anyone else do this? I have never heard about this before, and I always see a bunch of divot marks at the tee boxes on par 3s.

Driver: Tour Burner 10.5*
3 Wood: Hibore 15*
3 Hybrid: 3dx DC 20*
Irons: i5 4-PW
Gap Wedge: cg12 50*Sand Wedge: cg12 54*Putter: g5i anserIn my grom bag :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I saw that too. I do about the same as you and I will take a very slight divot as compared to a bigger divot in the fairway. I am sure that I hit the ball a little higher on the face but I don't tee it up halfway. I see the par three as a chance to always have a perfect lie.

Cobra LTDx 10.5* | Rad Tour 16* | Tour Edge 19* | Titleist U500 4-23* | T100 5-P | Vokey SM7 50/8* F, 54/10* S, SM8 58/10* S | Odyssey 2 Ball Blade | Vice Pro Plus  

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I also tee the ball pretty low, and take a small divot (not as big as my fairway, unless I hit it fat).

Also, I never tee up a wedge, including my PW, and sometime not my 9-iron.
My Clubs: Callaway FT-i Tour LCG 9.5° w/ Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 stiff; Sonartec GS Tour 14° w/ Graphite Design Red Ice 70 stiff; Adams Idea Pro 2h(18°) & 3h(20°) w/ Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff; Adams Idea Pro Forged 4-PW w/ TT Black Gold stiff; Cleveland CG12 DSG RTG 52°-10° & 58°-10°; Odyssey...
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I was at the Nissan Open a few years back and when I payed attention I noticed the pros teeing the par all higher than I'd expect. Since then I have done the same. 'Cause I wanna be a pro. I still take divots though.

Callaway RazrFit Extreme 9.5 w/Project X 6.5
Callaway XHot Pro 15* 3Wood w/Project X 6.5
Callaway XTour 18* 2h w/S300
Callaway XHot Pro 4/5 irons w/S300
Callaway XForged III 5-PW irons w/S300
Callaway Forged 52*/58* Wedges
Odyssey 7 Versa 90
Callaway Hex Black Tour

Link to comment
Share on other sites


This sounds interesting and something I have thought about since reading this thread initially. I am thinking that, in my long irons I tee the ball up a bit higher than my short irons, and I hit my irons very well off of the tee. And I dont hit my short irons as good as I do out of the fairway. So I am gonig to tee the ball a bit higher in the short irons and see what happens.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I never tee up anything shorter than a 6 iron. That's the way I practice.
It doesn't matter as long as you are committed to what you are doing.
I guess it does matter if you can't hit the ball off the deck.

Best, Mike Elzey

In my bag:
Driver: Cleveland Launcher 10.5 stiff
Woods: Ping ISI 3 and 5 - metal stiffIrons: Ping ISI 4-GW - metal stiffSand Wedges: 1987 Staff, 1987 R-90Putter: two ball - black bladeBall: NXT Tour"I think what I said is right but maybe not.""If you know so much, why are you...

Link to comment
Share on other sites


For short par 3's i rarely use tees . Long par 3 i give my tee height 1/3 of an inch above the ground . This gives enough room for the club to strike the ball squarely and a shallow divot is created in front of the ball as an end result .
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I like hitting short par 3's by teeing up real low (so it feels like its off the deck). long par threes i like to tee them up mid face too (so i cant work left-to right a little easier).
Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge Tour 10.5* (UST Proforce v2 77g X Flex) 3 Wood: Callaway Diablo 15* (UST Proforce v2 86g S Flex). 2 Hybrid: Adams A4 Tech 17* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex). 3 and 4 Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro 20* and 23* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex)
Irons: Tour Edge Exotics...
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I think it's not bad advice but may not be for everyone.

It will cause the ball to go on a higher trajectory because there will be more energy applied below the balls CG. A higher trajectory will cause the ball to land more steeply and stop quicker on the green.

Equipment, Setup, Finish, Balance, and Relax. All equal in importance and all dependent on each other. They are the cornerstones of a good golf swing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


My swing plan is steep and always hit down and take a divot disregarding the length of irons. May be should try to shallow out a bit, see if that would improve my score on Par3's. What do you guys think? Please share your thoughts.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Since most amateurs sweep rather than hit down, it's probably not bad advice. I know that when I'm feeling the pressure, I'll tee it up higher and take a smaller swing with a a less lofted club. It's just easier.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


On shorter Par 3's I rarely tee up the ball at all. On longer ones (5,4,3 iron) I tee up the ball about a 1/4 inch. I haven't yet found my "way" of doing things and do quite frequently change up my routine depending on how I'm feeling that day. Not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing.

TaylorMade R11S TP Blur 60 X
TayloreMade R11S TP Blur 70 X

Titleist 910H 21&24
Miura Tournament Blades 5-PW DGX100 Tour Issue
Cleveland CG16 52

Miura Black Wedge 56, 60
Newport 2 Teryllium Ten

Titleist ProV1x

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I like to tee up the ball about 1/8 of an inch off the ground. That gives me enough space to make a swing on a perfect lie. It also gives me a little room for error incase i hit it fat.

Hi-bore - 8.5* w/ 77g UST ProForce v2 stiff

PT- 21* x100 shaft

Ta3- Form Forged s300 shaftsVokey 52* 56*- Red X2 center shafted 33" ProV1x- High Numbers only (5's)

Link to comment
Share on other sites


In Golf magazine, Retief Goosen did an article on how to be more sucessful on par 3s. One thing he said was to tee the ball up about half way up the face thus hitting a more pure shot and not creating a divot.

I always tee it up. Jack Nicklaus once said something along the lines of "I learned a long time ago that air offers less resistance than dirt." Thing about teeing it too high and sweeping the ball off the ground is you're not transferring much power to the ball. It's a glancing blow at best, and you're not going to impart nearly as much spin on the ball. At least that's my experience - the ball goes twice as high and finishes about 25 yards short of where I intended to hit it.

"Shouldn't you be going faster? I mean, you're doing 40 in a 65..."

Driver: Burner TP 9.5*
3 Wood: 906F2 15*
2I: Eye 23I-PW: 3100 I/HWedges: Vokey Spin-Milled 56*06, MP-R 52*07/60*05Putter: Victoria IIBall: Pro V1xCheck out my new blog: Thousand Yard DriveHome Course: Kenton County...
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I tee the ball up slightly as I have a tendency to hit my irons fat. But all the experts say to hit down on the ball and take a divot to generate backspin. My ultimate goal on a par 3 is just to be on the green with a reasonable birdie putt.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I think it's not bad advice but may not be for everyone.

I couldnt agree more. I NEVER tee up a 7 iron or below. However, I've hit 3 iron and up off the deck also in order to keep it below the wind. So i guess this strategy is more of a "when" as opposed to an "if". It shouldn;t be done all the time, but it would be great on a par 3 that is downwnind and you are between clubs. This strategy would allow you to hit the shorter club and still get it to the pin because of the higher flight.

Monster Tour 10.5* w/ Redboard 63
FP400f 14.5* w/ GD YSQ
Idea Pro 18* w/ VS Proto 80s
MP FLi-Hi 21 w/ S300
CG1 BP w/ PX 6.0 SM 54.11 SM 60.08 Sophia 33"

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Lost Ball sometimes doesn't even use a tee because Lost Ball hits it so well off the ground on Par 3's
Golf is so popular simply because it is the best game in the world at which to be bad.

- A.A. Milne
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 5955 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Popular Now

  • Posts

    • 2 rounds this weekend, one at my home course and another course that I know well.   Played well for 3 of the 4 nines.    Ended up with an 80 and an 88.  Breaking it down by 9, it was 38, 42, 41, and a tough 47 where I somehow ended up with chipping/pitching shanks where I dropped at least 6 strokes on the last 6 holes.
    • Yikes, how time flies. Here we are, almost ten years later. After prioritizing family life and other things for a long time, I'm finally ready to play more golf. Grip: I came across some topics on grip and think my grip has been a bit too palmy, especially the left hand. I'm trying to get it more in the fingers and less diagonal. Setup: After a few weeks of playing, this realization came today after watching one of Erik's Covid videos. I've been standing too far from the ball, and that messes up so much. Moved closer on a short practice session and six holes today, and it felt great. It also felt familiar, so I've been there before. I went from chunking the bejesus out the wedges to much better contact. I love changes that involves no moving parts. Just a small correction on the setup and I'm hitting it better and is better suited for working on changes. I'm a few years late, but the Covid series has been very useful to get small details sorted. I've also had to revise ball position. The goal now is back of ball in the middle of the stance as the farthest back with wedges, and progressively moving forward the longer the clubs get. Haven't hit the driver yet, but inside left foot or at the toe I suppose. Full swing: It's not terrible. I noticed my hands were too low, so got that to work on. Weight forward. More of the same stuff from earlier days. Swing path is now out-in and I want the push-draw back. When I get some videos it'll be easier to tell. I've also had this idea that my tempo or flow/rhythm could improve. It's always felt rushed around the end of the backswing into the transition, where things don't line up as they should. A short pause as things settle before starting the downswing. Some lessons might be in order. Chipping and pitching: A 12-hole round this week demonstrated a severe need to practice, but also to figure out what the heck I’m trying to do. I stood over the ball with no idea of what I wanted to achieve. On a four meter chip! I was trying the locked wrists technique, which did not work at all. As usual when I need information, I look for something Erik has posted. I’ve seen the Quickie Pitching Video before, but if I got it back then, I’ve forgotten. After reviewing that topic, some other topic about chipping and most importantly, the videos on chip/pitch from his Covid series, I felt like I understood the concept. I love the idea of separating those two by what you are trying to achieve, not by distance or ball flight. With one method you use the leading edge to hit the ball first. With the other, you use the sole to slide it under the ball. I was surprised he said that he went for the pitch 90% of the time while playing. I’ve always been scared of that shot and been thinking I have to hit the ball first. Trying to slide the club under usually ended with a chunked or skulled shot. After practicing in the yard the last days I get it, and see why the pitching motion is more forgiving. It’s astounding how easy the concept and motion is. Kudos to Erik, David and anyone else involved for being an excellent students of the game and teachers. With those two videos, my short game improved leaps and bounds, without even practicing. Just getting the setup right and knowing what motions you are trying to do is a big part of improving. Soft hands and floaty swings feels so much better than a rigid “hinge and hold”, trying to fight gravity and momentum by squeezing the life out of the grip. At least how I took to understand the “hold” part. I also think the chipping motion will help in the full swing. Keeping pressure on the trigger finger to ensure the hands are leading the clubhead and not throwing it at the ball. I've also tried looking in front of the ball at times when chipping, which helps. That's something I've been doing on full swings for a long time, and can make a big difference on the ball flight. Question @iacas: You say in the videos that you want the ball somewhere near the middle of your stance, and that for pitching it's the same. On the videos you got a fairly narrow stance, where inside of the left foot is almost middle of the stance, but the ball looks more inside the left foot than middle of the stance. Is that caused by the filming angle or is the ball more towards the inside of the foot? I often hit chips and pitches from uphill and downhill lies, where a narrow stance would have me fall over. What is your thought process and setup for those shots? The lowpoint follows the upper body, around left armpit IIRC, so a ball position relative to the feet may not be in the same spot relative to the upper body with a wider stance. Practice: I've set up my nets at an indoors location where I can practice at home. I did a quick search on launch monitors (LM), but haven't decided on anything yet. We're probably buying a house in this area in the near future, so I may hold off a purchase until I see what I can get going there. At some point I'd love to get a proper setup with a LM that can be used as a simulator. Outdoors golf is not an option 4-6 months a year here, so having an indoors option would be great. That would also be a place to use the longer clubs. My nearest course is a shorter six hole course where I don't use anything longer than a 21º utility iron. To play longer 18 hole courses I have to drive 1-1.5 hours each way, which I will do now and then, but not regularly. The LM market has changed a lot since Trackman arrived, and more people are buying them for personal use, but it's still need to spend a lot of money for a decent one that can fi. track club path. The Mevo at £305 could perhaps be something to consider. Maybe they have lowered the price to get out units before a new model is launched? It is almost six years old, though perhaps modified since then. It's got limited data and obviously isn't an option as a simulator, but could provide some data when hitting into a net. I'd have to read more about it first. It has to be good enough to be useful for indoors practice. As long as I frequently hit balls on the range or course, I'll get feedback on any changes there.
    • I'm pretty good at picking targets with mid/long irons in hand, but yes lately I have been getting more aggressive than I should be, especially from 100-150. The 50-100 deficiency is mainly distance control, working on that mechanically with Evolvr, but the 100-150 is definitely a result of poor targets.  6,7,8 iron in my hand I have no problem aiming away from trouble/the flag, hitting a very committed shot to my target, but give me PW, GW, and some reason I think I need to go right at it (even though I know I shouldn't). Like here from my last round. 175 left on a short par 5 to a back right flag. Water short right and bunker long. Perfectly fine lie in sparse rough, between the jumper and downwind playing for about 10yds of help. I knew to not aim at the flag here, aimed 40 feet left of it, hit my 165 shot exactly where I was looking, easy 2 putt birdie.   But then there's this one. I had 120 left from the fairway to a semi-tucked front left flag. Not a ton of trouble around the green but the left and back rough does fall off steeper than short/right rough. For some reason I aimed right at this flag with my 120yd shot, hit it the exact proper distance but pulled it 5yds left and had a tough short sided chip. Did all I could to chip it to 8 feet and missed the putt for a bad bogey. Had I aimed directly at the middle of the green maybe 5yds right of the flag, a perfectly straight shot leaves me 20 feet tops for birdie and that same pulled shot that I hit would have left me very close to the hole.    So yeah I think the 50-100 is distance control and the 100-150 is absolutely picking better targets. I have good feels and am strong with distance control on those I just need to allow for a bigger dispersion.    This view is helpful. For the Under 25yds my proximity is almost double from the rough vs the fairway which reinforces that biggest weakness right now being inside 25yds from the rough. But then interestingly enough in the 25-50yds I'm almost equal proximity from fairway and rough, so it looks like I need to work on under 25yds from the rough and then 25-50 from the fairway. The bunker categories are only 1 attempt each so not worried about those.   Thanks as always for the insight, it's been helpful. I'm really liking ShotScope so far.
    • Wordle 1,053 4/6 🟨⬜⬜⬜🟨 🟨🟨⬜🟨⬜ 🟨⬜🟩⬜🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • Yea it is. A gave my brother a set of cobra irons at least a decade old and he walked away with 29 dollars worth of skin money the other day. 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...