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  1. 1. Which iron will you recommend?

    • Ping - G10
      40
    • Mizuno - Mx 25
      10
    • Nickent - 3DX Hybrid
      7
    • Taylor Made - 2007 R7 iron
      24
    • Muraman - Exim Nano
      0
    • Others - Please post the model. thanks.
      23


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Posted
I wait to the new clubs come out and buy last years models for cheap and spend the extra money getting them fitted

In My Edge Bag:
Driver: R7 Draw
3-Wood: Burner
3h,4h: Idea A2
Irons: 5-PW Idea A2Wedges: X-Tour 52, 56, 60Putter: White Hot XGBall: OPB (Other People's Balls)


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Posted
I like the looks of the new style Big Bertha irons....the model with the longer irons taking on a hybrid look. I really think that Callaway reinvented the "game improvement" irons back in 1995. They are still meeting the needs of golfers of all levels.

I'm a Callaway addict when it comes to irons. I know they don't appeal to the purist...but they surely have helped me enjoy the game loads more than I would have otherwise.
909D Comp 9.5* (house MATRIX OZIK XCON-6)
Burner Superfast 3 & 5 woods (house MATRIX OZIK XCON-4.8)
G15 Hybrid 23* (AWT shaft)
G5 5 iron-PW-46*, UW-50*, SW-54 & LW-58 (AWT shaft)
Studio Select Newport 2 Mid SlantGrips: PING cords & Golf Pride New Decade Multi-Coumpound Bag: C-130...

Posted

Try these out.

THE WEAPONS CACHE..

Titleist 909 D2 9.5 Degree Driver| Titleist 906f4 13.5 degree 3-Wood | Titleist 909 17 & 21 degree hybrid | Titleist AP2 irons
Titleist Vokey Wedges - 52 & 58 | Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter | ProV1 Ball

Posted
taylor Made Rac Os For Sure.

Driver Ping G10 10.5*
Hybrids Ping G5 (3) 19* Bridgestone J36 (4) 22*
Irons Mizuno MP-57 5-PW
Wedges Srixon WG-504 52.08 Bridgestone WC Copper 56.13
Putter 33" Scotty Cameron Studio Select #2


Posted
Callaway Gardening tools I mean irons are good for the beginer but once you have half a clue get rid of them.

Posted
my wife just brought me a set of mx-25 last week.. really like the feeling.. it was so much better compare to the other set i have=> Prima III.

i don't think i'll change any more for the next 5 yr unless i get single handicap. hahaha.

Posted
How 'bout these:under $300

http://www.golfsmith.com/products/ZVF100

http://www.golfsmith.com/products/HIP750

Under $400

http://www.golfsmith.com/products/TM1150

http://www.golfsmith.com/products/NT675

http://www.golfsmith.com/products/LX5450

Or..Go to your local pro shop and try a bunch of clubs.So,you can actually feel how it hits..Thats what I did,I tried the more expensive TM CGB,Burners and R7..I couldnt hit hit..I spent over 2hrs trying those clubs and ended up purchasing the older TM rac OS2's..

Driver- HiBore XL 9.5°
Hybrids- #3,#4 and #5
Irons- RAC CB/MB combo
Wedge- Vokey 52° Oil Can
56° CG-1060° CG-10Putter- CorzaBall-Bag- '08 Monaco


Posted
Sounds like you purchased the MX-25 but from your poll - I would recommend G10 or R7 - try before you buy. Callaway x18 or X-20 might work for you as another option to consider. Ignore the marketing and purchase what feels good and provides confidence. Spend as little as your ego can afford until you are a mid-handicapper is another option. Good luck with the best game in the world!

In my Sun Mountain 3.5 light stand bag:

Driver: Burner (10.5 degree)
Hybrids: 3DX DC (17 degree)
Irons: Taylormade R7 (4-AW)SW: Vokey Spin Milled (56 degree)Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 (coming soon)Balls: Pro V1 and NXT Tour


Posted
I would recommend the Cobra FP Irons which I personally use and love them. Another great set would be the Adam Idea a3 os hybrid iron set, which is also great for beginners.
In my bag:
Driver: Tour Burner 10.5 re*ax
3 Wood:R5 XL
Irons:FP Irons 5-GW
Hybrids:Baffler DWS 3,4 Wedges:588 RTG DSG 56º, 60ºPutter:White Hot XG #9 34"Grips: Lamkin Crossline CordsBall: Pro V1x

Posted
MPO, the MX-900s are great for beginners, they're similar to the MX-25s but they are cheaper now because the model is being closed out (replaced by the MX-950s). Great forged clubs, you'll get great feedbacl on good and bad hits. It's a keeper!

ISLAND PAR

In my Mizuno Bag:
TBD, MacGregor 4W(16*), 3H(20*),4H(23*), 5H(26*) Mizuno MX-900 6-PWAdams Watson 2010 Wedges (GW, SW, LW),Ping Wolverine Putter "But I thought you meant these golfers from our club when you said you needed SANDBAGGERS to help with the flood...


Posted
when i started playing i got a used set of titliest muscle back irons and i still use them today.

In my bag:
r7 Driver 9.5*
3 and 7 wood
3dx Hybrid 17*
3-PW DCI 990 irons 56* Hooter SW CG10 60* Wedge White Hot XG 2 Ball Putter Pro V-1


Posted
you cant go wrong with mizuno's.. so the mx-25
-WITB- USGA Index - 1.5
------------------------
Driver --Titleist 907D2 10.5* - Mitsubishi Rayon Diamana Blueboard
F.W. --Titleist 906F4 15.5* - Mitsubishi Rayon Diamana Blueboard
Irons --Mizuno MP-57 - Project X 6.0Wedges --Titleist Vokey Spin Milled 54* 58* - Dynamic Gold X100Putter --Cameron...

  • 1 month later...
Posted
Mizuno makes the absolute best irons in the world! Everyone who is anyone knows that.

Driver: MP-600 9.5 w/ Fujikura E360 Stiff Shaft
4 Wood: F-60 16.5 w/ Exsar FS3 Stiff Shaft
Irons:MP-57 3-PW w/ Dynamic Gold S300 Shafts
Wedges: MP-R Black-Ni 52, 56, & 60
Putter: Studio Select Newport 2Ball: ProV1/ProV1xGrips: Winn Xi7


Posted
Mizuno makes the absolute best irons in the world! Everyone who is anyone knows that.

Excellent irons but for a beginner Ping G10 might be more forgiving (except for MX950). It's all personal - demo with a fitter and decide what works for you - feel & look are very important as well. If you are confident with the equipment - this will help as well as practice on the green (and driving range when it's raining etc). All the best.

In my Sun Mountain 3.5 light stand bag:

Driver: Burner (10.5 degree)
Hybrids: 3DX DC (17 degree)
Irons: Taylormade R7 (4-AW)SW: Vokey Spin Milled (56 degree)Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 (coming soon)Balls: Pro V1 and NXT Tour


Posted
I love my G10s. When I was being fit for them, I also hit G5s from the fitting cart, and they are similar- so if you don't want to spend so much money, you might look for a second hand set of those. I plan on keeping my G10s until they fall apart.

In my C-130 bag:

Driver: G10 10.5*
3 Wood: Burner
Irons: G10 steel AWT shafts, silver dot, +1" (3-SW)Wedge: cg12 58*Putters: Squareback 2, California Coronado Low score (18 holes): 90Low score (9 holes): 42


Note: This thread is 5420 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
    • We had a member of our senior club who developed a mental block on pulling the trigger. I played with him to see what the membership was talking about. I timed him a few times when he would get over the ball. 45 seconds. He knew he had a mental block and would chide himself, “Just hit it!” Once on the green he was okay and chipping was a bit better. It was painful to watch him struggle. Our “bandaid” was to put him in the last tournament  tee time with two understanding players. We should have suggested to him to take a break from our tournaments. I agree with the idea that when a player realizes they have a problem, the answer is to go fix it and not return until they are able to play at an acceptable pace.
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