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Related to neutral/closed drivers, shaft angle, and how it relates to setup.


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This is a still from a YT clip. I was confused on the purpose of closed faced drivers and their purpose. (I personally don't use 1)

I clearly see the shaft and face angle are at odds here. I was just wondering if the design is meant to setup with a straight shaft and a closed face? Or do you setup with a square face with a forward press/lean (?) In the shaft?

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I am curious to see the responses on this.  My driver was initially set up with a closed face and I just adjusted it to neutral and am pleased with the early results.  I have my assumptions why but may learn something in this thread.

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7 hours ago, cutchemist42 said:

This is a still from a YT clip. I was confused on the purpose of closed faced drivers and their purpose. (I personally don't use 1)

Most people slice the ball, why not then sell a driver with a closed clubface to counter-act the slice spin.

This also might cause people to swing more inward, or try to hold the face open more at impact.

It's basically a gimmick. Though It might help a few golfers.

 

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About two years ago I ended up with closed-face driver and hybrids, and straight-face, low offset on everything else.

When my swing got in shape each summer, I started having a lot of left misses with the driver and Hs.

In fall of 2015 I got the FlyZ 4H with a square face. And last summer, I quit trying to get my old driver zeroed in and got fitted for my XR16 Pro driver: A little heavier shaft with lower torque has straightened everything out.

Lesson: If you have mix of square, closed, and open-faced clubs it's hard to be consistent on finding your preferred shot shape. If closed-faced longer clubs help, go with it. But, be cautious of randomly mixing the face angles up.

Focus, connect and follow through!

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  • 2 weeks later...

A lot of companies that still make bonded drivers (non-adjustable), offer heads that are supposedly square or supposedly closed face, I'll buy that in bonded drivers.

If you buy an adjustable it's a mixed bag for some settings. On the R1 for instance, the Draw setting on the dial with certain hosel combinations was sometimes actually 8 or more degrees open. Not a misprint...

To answer your question @cutchemist42, usually you would just set up with it closed, if you were trying to combat a slice, as the ads lead you to believe. But remember to combat a slice, "It's not the arrow, It's the Indian"

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(edited)
6 hours ago, onthehunt526 said:

A lot of companies that still make bonded drivers (non-adjustable), offer heads that are supposedly square or supposedly closed face, I'll buy that in bonded drivers.

If you buy an adjustable it's a mixed bag for some settings. On the R1 for instance, the Draw setting on the dial with certain hosel combinations was sometimes actually 8 or more degrees open. Not a misprint...

To answer your question @cutchemist42, usually you would just set up with it closed, if you were trying to combat a slice, as the ads lead you to believe. But remember to combat a slice, "It's not the arrow, It's the Indian"

Oh I know, and slicing isnt my problem. I just kinda wondered what the intent was of these drivers out of curiosity. I like my G5 driver which to my eye looks square....like the driver picture on the right in the 1st post.

Edited by cutchemist42
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  • 1 month later...

I started playing 1.5 yrs ago when I started as you would assume I sliced my driver horrible. Bought a r11s used very cheap and learned you could close the face. Helped tremendousl. Now after reading this I still have it set closed. I wonder how I would do having it set normal. Guess I will have to try it out at the range

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