tinker

You have got to get to a point where you learn to hit shots. Sounds like you try to kill the ball on every swing. Practice hitting your 8 iron 100 yards. Shorter slower swings are easier to control once you get the crush it mentality out of your system.

Hitting balls at a screen or even on the range has no consequences so you just use a natural swing. On the course you see a target along with water or trees or sand and most start swinging too hard. The “I got to get it there” mentality sets in and the smooth strokes go away. I like to practice on a real course when I can get out alone in off times. That’s how you learn all the shots.

Are you joking. Vessel bags are outrageous price.

Don’t waste money on second hand balls just to play a brand name. They where probably at the bottom of a pond for six months. There are a bunch of great ball on the market for 20 or less a dozen. Check out Wilson Duo

Nice irons but they are open stock from the Chinese founders. The blade was a Henry Hatton, Alpha component and the forged cavity is the old Dynacraft Profit head.

If the loft is what makes clubs easy to hit why are sl sets making 6,5,4 lower lofted and shorter?

Can you play three shots in a row with the same ball position and exact same swing? Do you play the ball in the same exact position if your uphill, downhill, side hill, behind a tree, under a tree, on bare hardpan, in a divot. Learning golf is about learning how to use clubs to accomplish the shot that’s called for. That’s why there’s 14 clubs in the bag. A fade calls for an open stance and the ball forward. If you didn’t make the turn in the dog leg do you just hit it straight into the woods? BDC is winning on tour but he’s cherry picking easy flat courses. He imploded at the British Open.

A 7 iron is a 7 iron. Can’t see any reason in the world to lengthen 8,9 or pw. The fact that they are shorter makes them easier to hit, that’s why they are scoring clubs. That leaves the 6,5,4,3. As the 5 is already a 3 iron loft if they made a 3 iron it would be putter loft. So the whole thing is based on 2 clubs, 5 and 6 iron. Makes more sense to just practice to hit normal 5 and 6. It’s not all that hard.

I think the only way to maintain distance gaps is with a high swing speed. Moderate to slower swing speeds or senior golfers will hit all the irons a similar distance. The super low loft longer irons won’t have enough carry distance. Roll doesn’t matter in iron play.

The whole reason you practice or go to the driving range is to grove your swing in an attempt to hit the ball in the middle of the club. I don’t do ranges much, I like to go to an empty course in the afternoon and practice on a real hole. I’ll drop a ball under a tree and work on a low cut shot. I’ll take an 8 iron from 100 yards and work on a low punch to the pin. I already know what a swing like a wild man miss hit looks and feels like. My goal is to play the whole game and make the right shots. That’s game improvement. Continuing to make the same swing flaws and trying to buy equipment to improve probably won’t work long term.

It’s not about smashing the ball as hard as you can with a shovel. It’s about squaring the club head at impact and hitting the sweet spot. Forgiveness is about getting away with miss hit shots. Good golfers are concerned with results of well struck shots.

First myth, cb’s have a bigger sweet spot. Wrong, there is only one sweet spot on any club and they are all the same size. The object of golf is to hit the club as correctly as possible and use the club to control the trajectory and direction of the shot. A blade iron with a minimal offset allows the player to easily close the face on the downswing resulting is solid shots. Traditional lofts allow various shot trajectories throughout the set of irons. Golf has become a game of swing like a wild man and hope a part of the club hits the ball. That’s not the way to play the game and why with all the modern equipment handicaps haven’t changed a bit. Get a set of irons that allow you to learn the game and improve through shot making. Distance is unimportant, you have 8 irons for various distances, learn to use them all.

Still play with my rechromed, rebuilt Macgregor VIP irons all the time. Ti driver does go farther than old persimmon, I have a nice set of Wood Brothers woods, but I use a 400 cc Alpha driver I can control much better than the 460 stuff. I score just as good or better than with the new low lofted stuff. I have no trouble hitting a 3 or 4 iron which is the key to using traditional irons and having all your yardage gaps.

As long as they are stainless steel or forged there is no such thing as the best brand. Buy what sets up good to your eye and is in your budget. The difference on a well struck shot is minimal.

The gamers and vice are both chinese balls I believe made by the same company. Don’t get name branditus, use what works good and priced right

If it works , use it. Brand new drivers don’t have a yard more potential. 460 cc, 860 COR is as hot as it gets. No such thing as a fake driver. Brand names don’t hit the ball, that’s why they put them on the bottom.

If the original designer planted trees he envisioned tree lined fairway as the course matured. Wide open pastures are popular today because golfers, even modern pros, want to be able to bomb it anywhere and just keep playing on. But shotmaking is a big part of the game. Hit the right side of the fairway or pay the price of having to work the ball to score. I say less length, more trees.

Weights has nothing to do with it. Work on as full a turn as you can get and as straight a left arm as possible. This creates a larger swing arc which produces club head speed. Justin Thomas has arms that look like spaghetti noodles.

Price has nothing to do with the effectiveness of a wedge. It’s about sole grind, sole width and how it sets up and feels in your hand. Price is a result of brand marketing.

No, expensive clubs in most cases just appeal to the brand nameitus in a lot of golfers. 17-4 or 302 stainless or carbon, chrome plated forged at the same weight and shaft perform the same in a reasonable component club as they do in an expensive brand name.

Chances are your swinging outside to in , what’s called over the top. The one driver that might help is an offset driver.

You can only learn so much from seminars and videos. Golf ball striking is learned “in the dirt”. I would sugest taking a lesson and practicing what was taught before taking another lesson. I also would get a set of cavity back irons with generous loft ( hard to find, used on e bay) and regular flex steel shafts and practice. If you can learn to hit the longer irons the rest will fall into place. Don’t try to kill the ball, hit the ball and let the clubs do their job.

The whole concept makes little sense to me. If you can hit a six iron length we’ll the shorter 7,8,9 and pw should be that much easier. On the other end shortening and delisting the 4 and 5 irons requires high swing speed to achieve the same distance and trajectory as traditional lengths and lies. The reason drivers go as far as they do is because they are the longest club generating the most swing speed. Try a 37 inch driver and see how far it goes.

Don’t mind any improvements as long as the original shotmaking isn’t being changed to the current “ bomb and gouge” mentality.

Walmart has Wilson Zip, 2 dozen for about 20 bucks. They play great , putt soft and spin plenty for amature golfers. I’m a 10 handicap and they are all I use.