amished

Some of the shots Fleetwood has played makes me want him to win. I hope the course toughens up and his score can hold up vs. Reed/Koepka being on fire or somebody else getting hot.

(insert standard disclaimer about uploading a swing video, and I'm definitely not an expert so take my thoughts with a grain of salt) It's possible that your ball position is too far back. Assuming you're a righty, a push shot that goes straight means that assuming face contact you have a massive in to out swing and a clubface that matches that path. For it to go lower, your face would also be delofted. The picture I have in my head is that your shaft at impact is pointing way out in front of your lead shoulder as that both lowers the loft of the club and points the clubface right. The other picture in my head is that you're hitting the ball near the hosel of the club. It's odd that you wouldn't have similar problems in your other clubs, but the shorter length and view of the club could be affecting you in another way. With half swings and pitches you can correct yourself during the swing but with a more full swing you aren't generating good contact causing the ball to shoot off in odd angles. I have a not quite as bad problem (hitting near the hosel with my wedges) that's similar to this so what I did to fix it was to go to a practice green, bury my ball in the rough and try to hit the ball with the toe of the club. Getting used to how far away from the ball I have to stand to hit a different part of the face allowed me to split the difference and find the center of the clubface and improved my shot making ability around the green. Again, that's a personal fix for a specific problem so if you don't have that problem then this advice would be useless.

It indeed sounds like a shank. A question I have is at what distance does this start to happen? Do you have the 2-3 o'clock direction on short chips around the green with your wedges, or are those relatively straight? Does it happen on 10 yard pitches, 20 yard, 70 yard, etc..? -Edit- Does the ball flight height differ as well on your 2-3 o'clock shots? Higher or lower than normal?

Yeah, I'm within an hour of two courses that bounce on and off Golf Digest's top 100 public courses in the nation, have only played one of them (this year) and look to play the other probably next year. Also playing three of the top 100 by taking a four hour golf weekend trip with a couple of buddies this weekend (Wilderness at Fortune Bay tomorrow!)

I should have a golf weekend to get over to Wisconsin some time, but there's enough good courses near me that I haven't been to that I probably should knock those out first...

Not to be late to the party, but a guy from my hometown that I chat with from time to time was so close to qualifying for the open. I believe he shot 3 under on the first qualifying round and then shot like 6 over on the second round to miss the cut. I think if he had shot even par or even 1 over on that second round he would've qualified out of the Columbus event. Heartbreaking for everybody that knows him, he works so hard on his game but so does everybody else. I'm excited to watch this year, Shinnecock seems well set up and I hope it's a challenge for the players out there. I don't know why, but I feel like the winning score should be within 3 shots of even par for the weekend. Too low and the course was "too easy" and too high and the course was "too hard" in my head. The US Open is the only tournament that I have this feeling towards though...

I don't know if my phone technically supports slo-mo, but an app that I use on android is Hudl Technique and you can slow it down or go frame by frame with the base software there. Still depends on the framerate that your camera can record at but it's better than nothing.

43/44 for an 87. Didn't play my best but shot well at times. Definitely left 4-5 putts short of the hole on the correct line so 2' extra of putts today would've had me at a 83 or so. Still, for windy conditions on a fast course I wasn't too mad about it.

Ended up just trying the ES 56* wedge at the store after work today and I was hitting it so crisply it was crazy. They had the artificial sand and rough stuff there and I buried it as deep as I could and the club performed admirably. Ended up buying it and taking it out to the course and I hit one of my most incredible shots I've ever hit with that club. Was able to open up the face in thick rough and take a huge swing to get over a tree and land softly onto the green. I think I've fallen in love...

Personally, I think that the knowledge about global warming and the seriousness of the sun and skin cancer is a factor with this as well. It probably does help that there are more athletes using sleeves and that it's "acceptable" to wear them as well but cancer in general is a major concern of mine and a driving factor into looking into these types of sleeves.

I've definitely had more of a focus on my other clubs in the bag, I got a Glide 1.0 52* SS when they came out and figured that it was good enough for all of my shots around the green. Now that I've been able to practice more, I've been able to be more confident with higher lofted wedges and wanted to upgrade my 56* Warrior No-SpinTM wedge. Also have an old 60* Hogan Forged oval shaped sand wedge thing from when I first bought the used set back in ... 2005? Not sure how old it is but there are times I want more loft than 52 and I don't think my 56 will do what I want. Sometimes that club will pop straight up and land exactly where and how I want and other times are not so much... That's what's sparked looking at my wedges again, since I pretty much have the rest of my bag sorted after a recent great used Iron Set find and purchase earlier this year.

The ES was the grind I was looking at. Did you just decide to pick up the ES grind or did you test the other grinds as well that were available to you? I guess my question is what would the SS grind get you over the ES. The less bounce in the ES is the biggest difference but it seems like the grind adds "effective" bounce that can get through sand easier but I don't understand all of the other potential implications. I definitely don't typically take much of a divot in 98% of my shots so I know the WS isn't for me but the difference between the SS and ES seem marginal to an uneducated eye like mine.

Any other reviews or thoughts on the wedges after more play? I have an old 56* wedge that I'm hoping to swap out and this one is on my short list of wedges to pick up as a replacement.

Even though it's not an easy thing to quantify, I think you can only fairly compare the fields to what they could have at the time. I would take the 100th ranked golfer today over the 10th ranked back in Jack's time just because of how much knowledge and training goes into today's game compared to back then, so the 10th best vs. 10th best comparison doesn't really do it for me. But in the respective times everyone knew as much as they could about the game at the level. So with professionals deciding to skip majors, skip tournaments, etc. in Jack's day, I would say those fields aren't as good as they should have been at the time, where nowadays Tiger beat everyone coming to every major and tournament more often so the fields were made up of more consistently the best golfers the world has to offer. I think that alone means that the strength of the relative field is going to be tougher in Tiger's era compared to Jack's making Tiger's feats all the more impressive, especially considering Tiger's win % in general vs. the field. On @saevel25's point and tying my view into it, the 100 people that showed up for tournaments in Jack's era probably had more non-top 100 golfers in the field compared to today in a similar circumstance. So the relative skill isn't there either.

I'll agree on a couple of points: the way you play the hole is probably best for your game, and some people that always hit driver shouldn't. The part I disagreed with was your first paragraph that I quoted, specifically the part where if you can't hit your driver 240 you shouldn't; and the part where since you can't get to the green in two, you shouldn't hit driver either. If you're already "struggling" with distance by not hitting your driver 240, why would you want to give up more distance by not hitting your driver? Even if you couldn't get to the green in two on whatever par 5 you want that is long enough to qualify for that statement, in my head you'd still want to get as close as possible. If there's a forced layup, or something like that I would want to get as close to that layup as possible so that I'm less likely to screw up the layup shot. If there's a ravine at 330 out, I'd rather hit Driver 200 (or whatever) and then a 8 or 9 iron to be close to the layup instead of a 5 iron then a 6 iron to make up that 310 yard target I'm trying to get to. In each of these cases, I'm hitting Driver off the teebox even though I couldn't reach whatever target you had set up.

I must admit that I don't understand this viewpoint at all. Just because you can't hit a driver 250, or you can't get to the green in two does not mean it's the wrong play. If you can hit your driver 180-220 but straight, that will get you closest as you can without getting into trouble. You then still want to be as close to the green as possible after your second shot as long as you don't go into a hazard. In a hypothetical extremely tight 500 yard par 5, if I could hit my driver perfectly straight 200, and my 3wood 185, I'm never not hitting driver/3wood. Even if we change the numbers to be driver at 240, 3wood at 220 with the same accuracy, I'm still always hitting driver/3wood as I'd rather be 40 yards out than 80 yards out, or 120 yards out. So immediately dismissing a club choice because you can't reach in 2 seems arbitrary and wrong in my head.

Too flat of a swing can mean you're effectively working against your body to generate speed vs. working with your body. I gained yardage when I fixed my flat/inside takeaway backswing so it makes sense to me.

It's not exact, but if you had to sit on every tee box for two minutes waiting for people to get out of your way, that's largely what it amounts to. I barely watch golf except for the majors and the 3 minute highlights posted on YouTube, and they're pros doing things I can only dream of doing. I don't want to spend half an hour watching amateurs that I don't know playing golf from a distance of 150-250 yards.

I need to make my wife do the hips forward drill. She does well with keeping her head still but she still has a lot of softball in her and she struggles getting to where she should be on an actual swing.

If you hit them well, I would definitely go for the M1s if they are the best fit for you and the i3s are no longer sufficient. Personally, I would never buy a new set of irons and resort to only used ones if you have a good reputable seller. The difference I can never believe is there in one years worth of technology change so the savings outweigh what benefits I can think of. Personally, I think of my bag as different parts: my woods, my irons, my wedges, and my putter. So if I'm comfortable with my wedges, they will stay in my bag until they're worn out and buy my irons around my wedge set. If you like your 50, I don't see why you would switch... I might consider switching your SW down the road since you stated that you can only "live with it" rather than expressing a like for it, but wedges are something that I feel you can get a one-of and not feel like it's out of place since it will have it's own specific use and feel that you need that club to have. I think with the difference in distance that you're getting between your current iron set and the M1s that you hit, the 5 iron will not leave you as much of a gap as you had before, so the 5-PW would be the right choice given what you've put down.

Been able to play some practice rounds, still not sold on the 3i. I can hit it well, there just aren't as many situations that I would want to hit it that pop up on my normal courses. I'm in a place where I don't think I can hit it out of the rough reliably so I'd rather go with a 4 or 5 iron, and generally I feel like I can hit my 3 wood off the deck well so fairway and a long way away is covered by that. There definitely is a gap between what I can hit/normally hit my 3 wood and my 4 iron, that distance just normally doesn't come up a lot where I play. I think investing in a 5 wood (I don't like the head shape of hybrid clubs...) might be the path for me to cover that gap but still think I can hit it out of the rough with good distance. Or perhaps I have to just play with it more and figure out which situations that I've been missing out on or not seeing because of my reticence to play a 3 iron shot.

What really seemed to help my mindset was that I was talking to a professional golfer (not PGA level, but does compete and get paid to play) friend of mine and just telling myself that a full shot isn't the right shot to play. I've been playing much more flighted, 3/4 swing shots over the past week that has really helped me get some GIR that I normally don't get. After working out the pull-draw that I started with when trying to execute these shots, my accuracy with my irons has gone way up and I no longer think that the only way to keep a ball on the green is to drop it on there from as high as possible... This also might be a side effect of recently switching to non-SGI irons that I didn't think I could effectively flight. I probably could have, but I have much more confidence in controlling the up and down shape of the shot as well as the left and right shape of the shot.

With a double bogey on a nemesis hole of mine, shot net even par on our 9 hole men's league night (5 over for 9 holes). No birdies, but 5 pars which I think either tied or broke a 9 hole record for me on my home course. Mostly drove well, my double bogey was a bad drive. Made some poor first putts but had some really good second putts to keep my "expected" score where I want it to be at the moment. Another bogey was a poor iron tee shot, so most of my bad scores started off the tee and rapidly is becoming a focus.

Ahh, something like this is more or less what I'm looking for, just forgot it existed. Thank you, I'll be sure to print off 20 or so and keep them in my bag...

I mean, I know a couple of my patterns but I'm not sure what's costing me more strokes or what I need to work on more. Essentially, which of my swing flaws is more of a fluke than the next one... If I shoot 85-90, let's say I chunk 5 shots a round, but then pull-hook 4. In this hypothetical, let's say each miss cost a stroke and I make other mistakes to add up to whatever score I have over par. Based on just that round, my low point control/head staying still needs more work than delivering the club face correctly on the path I'm swinging. But one round is not always indicative of my overall game, so do you keep a notebook writing down how many shots did something that you didn't want them to do, or do you evaluate after every round? Or some middle ground, or something else entirely? Basically, I'm trying to figure out what part of my full swing I need to work on first because it's costing me more strokes than other parts of my full swing. I don't know which key I'm failing at executing most often, and if that most often issue is still costing me the most strokes throughout a round. Is this the wrong mindset?