Gebus

With some of the new courses I am playing I am in the process of removing a wedge and switching to a 13.5* titleist F2 and a 18* F3 because I am lacking the distance on some of the longer par 5s and am confident enough with my short game that I could live without my 52* wedge.

To go against the grain I actually prefer lighter shafts, I lack club head speed and will take any help I can get and with my odd stack and tilt/one piece swing I normally don't have a problem with my woods at impact. I like a heavier shafted iron though.

May sound like a bit of an odd suggestion but I once bought one of those bargain bags of balls at Wal-Mart picked out the good ones and went to hit them at a range with my rangefinder. Its a bit on the expensive side but it works. I am lucky I have access to a driving range that uses PROV1s to get my distances.

You should have bought the California series, they come with black headcovers...

You almost have the same set as I do, I would suggest getting a 1/2/3 hybrid which ever fits best in the gap

I hope to god you tested AP2s...

I have the F1 55 stiff in my zero limit driver and my F2 3 wood. I have tested pretty mush every exotic shaft (a privilage of working at a proshop with alot of time on your hands) and this is the shaft that works for me. I find it to be a little picky, if you don't load it right it will not forgive you like voodoos and stock shafts do but that is the only thing I see wrong with it. To tell you the truth I like the "the Juice" shaft in my 907 better, it is less picky and really gives it a good trajectory (more because of the shaft head combo). My suggestion to you is to get fit and let the professional tell you what shaft is right for you.

Footjoys fit to standard sizes. I have a pair of icons and synergys and they both fit normal

I've played them (still disagree that game is a verb) and they are good wedges and if you are in the market for a wedge with an extremely specific grind, hey go for it. If you can live with a normal tour proven grind just get vokeys or clevelands.

Its a combo for someone looking for tour turf interaction without a tour swing speed, hey I've ordered AP2s with A flex graphite shafts for a customer. (Sales rep laughed at me when I ordered them).

I would suggest to get the hybrid if your looking for forgiveness and maybe think about getting a 2 hybrid to even out your distance gaps

A "push stroke" would entail a one stroke penalty and the ball must be replaced and replayed.

I have played a few rounds this year with the rail hybrid demo from my proshop, It is great, its like a bulldozer through the rough (and I am playing in chewy spring rough) and is extremely forgiving (at least compared to my Titleist), I notice that it goes a little high when you hit it high on the face and it isn't as easy to work right and left as my titleist but I would definitely put one of these in my bag if I didn't already have the 909h.

I agree with titleist_prov1x stock shafts are really good shafts made cheaper... I would definitely suggest going with anything in the D line, Personally the D2 spins to much for me so if I were to have one I would have the Comp but look into getting one of the more exotic shafts

I admit the website is very fancy

It depends on the shot you are trying to hit. If your trying to get a bit of release the 54* or even the pitch would be best, if you need to land the ball softly try the 58*.

If you say there aren't many driving ranges around you you might be able to get away with having a "cheaper" driving range. Around here there is a driving range on every corner each having their own little thing that the others don't. I work at a golf course whose driving range isn't pretty and the turf is horrible but its cheap so it works. When I really feel like practicing there is a driving range close by that has great mats and a grass section that is "private" (they only allow very capable golfers on the grass so it doesn't get chewed up to fast), Brand new balls every year, this year they are Srixons, and there are real greens everywhere at different distances, but as you can imagine its very expensive... My big suggestion is to make save money on grass and balls and invest in lighting so that you can run you driving range late, that is where the money is...

Which one F2 or F3? I have one of each and prefer the F2, it is the easier of the two to hit, gets up in the air easier and I find it cuts through rough a bit better. I never use it off the tee so I can't really give you any opinions there but I am warning you out of all the fairway woods I've tried (and trust me I've tried alot) the titleist ones are on the difficult side to hit. They are not taylormade burners that you can hit horrifically thin or fat as a cow and still get rewarded, so keep that in mind before buying one.

I clean my clubs after everyday of play which I thought was normal... I work at a golf club ans was amazed that people simply don't clean their clubs. Great example was a guy coming into the proshop and telling vokey wedges are horrible they don't spin for very long, I was astounded and asked him to see it, it was covered by so much grass you couldn't tell what color it was. I actually started a service in our proshop, we clean a set of clubs for 40$. I do it when there is nothing else to do and I make 35 out of the 40...

Don't forget that around the greens you need to be able to control not only the landing point but the hight,trajectory,spin. If someone actually asked me my chipping mechanics, I wouldn't be able to show them because I probably have 50 different ways to chip the ball. I also noticed that you do not really have a wedge set. I think "iron wedges" (wedges that come with an iron set) are a plague among inexperienced golfers. Your wedges are the most important scoring clubs in your bag (other than putter obviously), so I would suggest in investing in real wedges like voks or Clevelands or Mizzy MPTs etc. That will really help your short game.

I play university golf i Canada, it is a lot smaller than in the states but every major university had a team. They way our team works is were separated into two groups. One group (5-10 players) is the competition team, we are the most heavily sponsored, we practice the most and train the hardest. Then there is the "development" team, every school I know of has a development team. The criteria to get into the development team is pretty much: you have golf clubs, you want to get better. Our development team ranges from people with a 40 handicap to about 20. You should check to see if your sons high school has a golf development program. One thing I really want to warn you about though is get a PGA pro to teach your son, yes it's expensive but it is worth it in the end. If you end up teaching your son and he gets lessons later he is going to be screwed up for a little while. As a junior golf coach (I teach the 5-8 year olds, it's awesome) I've noticed that parents tend to push their own swing mechanics and "theories" on their children, right or most often wrong...

Muscle memory I have hit so many buckets as soon as I range the flag and get a yardage my body knows how to hit it that distance, but I know what your saying.

I roll with a 52,56,60 and use them all frequently, You should aspire to be a short game shot maker and that requires tools... I would think of my set as incomplete if I got up to my ball and thought "well this would be much easier with a 60* wedge if only I hadn't bought two 56* wedges..."

My golf course will give you a rain check for the full 18 if you've been rained out on the first 4 holes, a rain check for 9 if you were rained out from 4-14 and no rain check after 14. We also only allow you to use your rain check after labor day.

I put a red dot on one side of the word titleist and a blue dot on the other (school colors) and a green dot below the number (because thats where I want the thing to land) I dont mark the sides because they already have our schools name on it.