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So I'm buying a new set of clubs piece by piece...


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...and I have a few questions. :) I don't have the opportunity to buy a new set at once and so I've started a list and I'm going through it in order of priority. First I bought a driver, because my old one was half-broken. Next I bought a golf bag, because the one I had was torn and slightly warped. Then I bought golf shoes, because I had never owned a pair and I learned the hard way this weekend that my tennis shoes (and by association my socks...) have no business being on a very wet golf course. Those three were at the top of my list because what I had was either falling apart, or I didn't have it yet. From this point, I'm essentially looking to replace the rest of my clubs which are in working condition. My woods are offset and I hit them often (and well), so I'm thinking those might be next. I'm thinking a 3w or 5w of this: http://www.globalgolf.com/product/golfclub.aspx?pid=1019756&gd;=3. Either one of those, with the other following next, or wait a bit and buy an iron set (probably 4h, 5i-PW: http://www.globalgolf.com/product/golfclub/-/pid--1016818/iron-set/taylor-made/r7-xd-combo.aspx?gd=3). As I'm looking over used clubs, I'm seeing that the lengths vary and I'm not sure what the "standard" should be. I feel like by piecing it together I'm basically going to end up with a set of all sorts of lengths. Getting an iron set will mitigate this I guess. I imagine the answer to this is to have them fitted for me, but given my budget I'm not sure if I have room for that. What does something like that cost? Also, as I piece this together, I wonder if I'm creating distance gaps. For example, where does the 5w fit into my irons? Do I base all of that directly off of the loft of each club? Does it make sense to have a 1w, 3w, 5w, 4h, 5i, etc? Or, am I missing a distance gap without adding another club in there? Wedge wise, I have a PW that I can get by with until I replace my woods and irons. At that point I'll look at different degrees of wedge. Same with my putter, what I have is sufficient for now. Being on a budget sucks. But, the vast majority of my budget is reserved for range trips and green fees. :)

Driver: TaylorMade SuperFast 2.0 -- 10.5* Woods: TaylorMade SuperFast 2.0 -- 3w 15*, 5w 18* Hybrid: TaylorMade Burner SuperFast 2.0 Rescue -- 4h 21* Irons: TaylorMade Burner Plus -- 5-AW Wedges: TaylorMade RAC -- 56.12, 60.07 Putter: TaylorMade Spider Ghost -- 35" Ball: It's complicated.

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Getting my irons customized was $60 per club all in, and I was fortunate to find a good, trustworthy club guy in my area. The initial fitting/consultation was $50 I think. A 5w is ~19* and is comparable to a 3i/h in terms of loft. However, this could vary somewhat depending on the manufacturer.

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Less may be better.

As a beginner, there is nothing wrong with getting a full set if you find a good deal and they fit your body (check Adams for great integrated sets). But, have less clubs can be an asset as it may help you develop consistency. I would hold off on a 5W. Perhaps get a 3W and skip the driver. Get an iron set that starts at 5iron and don't worry about the gap between your 5iron and your 3wood for a while. Get a sand wedge or two and practice your short game. Get good out the bunkers. You will score better and have more fun hitting 3Wood, 5iron, 7iron onto a par 4 green than you will hitting driver, punching out of the woods. Hitting 3wood. Searching for your ball. Hitting wedge, wedge, wedge and then getting on the green.

The most money I have ever won on the golf course came at a very long and hard course. I Never hit anything more than a 5iron because I was was awful with every wood on the range. I was a 25 handicap. I hit that 5iron over 40 times and by the last few holes, I was hitting it 195 yards and dead straight. I felt exactly how to set up and could really count on that club. Shot 91. Taking my 4iron and all my woods out of play that day was a great lesson.

I've heard a story that Tom Watson would only let his son have 8 clubs until he learned to play them well and could break 80. Tom felt that 14 clubs introduce too many variables to a beginners game. And, less clubs promoted shot making. Mr. Watson got his, and his son's clubs, for free and custom made if he wanted. The story I heard had the boy breaking 80 in Jr High. That meant he played for several years with other kids who had full sets, his dad was a pro, and he had 8 clubs. Don't know if it is true, but it makes the point. (Heard it from a guy at Ram Golf when Watson was playing Ram clubs.)

Russ - Student of the Moe Norman swing as taught by the pros at - http://moenormangolf.com

Titleist 910 D3 8.5* w/ Project X shaft/ Titleist 910F 15* w/ Project X shaft

Cobra Baffler 20* & 23* hybrids with Accra hybrid shafts

Mizuno MP-53 irons 5Iron-PW AeroTech i95 shafts stiff and soft stepped once/Mizuno MP T-11 50.6/56.10/MP T10 60*

Seemore PCB putter with SuperStroke 3.0

Srixon 2012 Z-Star yellow balls/ Iomic Sticky 2.3, X-Evolution grips/Titleist Lightweight Cart Bag---

extra/alternate clubs: Mizunos JPX-800 Pro 5-GW with Project X 5.0 soft-stepped shafts

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As I'm looking over used clubs, I'm seeing that the lengths vary and I'm not sure what the "standard" should be. I feel like by piecing it together I'm basically going to end up with a set of all sorts of lengths. Getting an iron set will mitigate this I guess. I imagine the answer to this is to have them fitted for me, but given my budget I'm not sure if I have room for that. What does something like that cost?

Keep in mind there's no set standard for length (or loft, for that matter) -- a 7-iron from TaylorMade might be 1/2" longer and 3 degrees stronger than a 7-iron from Mizuno. Also, at most demo days, you can get fit for a company's product - especially irons - for free, often without committing to a purchase. Mizuno, Nike, and Titleist are great for this; Ping is excellent on this. If anyone tries to charge you for a basic length, lie, flex, and grip size fitting, walk away. For that matter, shaft optimization through Mizuno is free (although if you choose a higher-price shaft, there is of course the upgrade cost). But if you pick a standard shaft, getting the right length, lie, flex and grip size doesn't cost you any more than buying off the shelf does (although there may be a slight wait). If a company representative tells you "oh, you're a high handicapper, don't bother with fitting," be sure to let us know (and disregard his company's products; if they don't care about your game, why should you consider their clubs?).

-- Michael | My swing! 

"You think you're Jim Furyk. That's why your phone is never charged." - message from my mother

Driver:  Titleist 915D2.  4-wood:  Titleist 917F2.  Titleist TS2 19 degree hybrid.  Another hybrid in here too.  Irons 5-U, Ping G400.  Wedges negotiable (currently 54 degree Cleveland, 58 degree Titleist) Edel putter. 

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Getting my irons customized was $60 per club all in, and I was fortunate to find a good, trustworthy club guy in my area. The initial fitting/consultation was $50 I think. A 5w is ~19* and is comparable to a 3i/h in terms of loft. However, this could vary somewhat depending on the manufacturer.

Good to know, thanks!

Driver: TaylorMade SuperFast 2.0 -- 10.5* Woods: TaylorMade SuperFast 2.0 -- 3w 15*, 5w 18* Hybrid: TaylorMade Burner SuperFast 2.0 Rescue -- 4h 21* Irons: TaylorMade Burner Plus -- 5-AW Wedges: TaylorMade RAC -- 56.12, 60.07 Putter: TaylorMade Spider Ghost -- 35" Ball: It's complicated.

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Less may be better. As a beginner, there is nothing wrong with getting a full set if you find a good deal and they fit your body (check Adams for great integrated sets). But, have less clubs can be an asset as it may help you develop consistency. I would hold off on a 5W. Perhaps get a 3W and skip the driver. Get an iron set that starts at 5iron and don't worry about the gap between your 5iron and your 3wood for a while. Get a sand wedge or two and practice your short game. Get good out the bunkers. You will score better and have more fun hitting 3Wood, 5iron, 7iron onto a par 4 green than you will hitting driver, punching out of the woods. Hitting 3wood. Searching for your ball. Hitting wedge, wedge, wedge and then getting on the green. The most money I have ever won on the golf course came at a very long and hard course. I Never hit anything more than a 5iron because I was was awful with every wood on the range. I was a 25 handicap. I hit that 5iron over 40 times and by the last few holes, I was hitting it 195 yards and dead straight. I felt exactly how to set up and could really count on that club. Shot 91. Taking my 4iron and all my woods out of play that day was a great lesson. I've heard a story that Tom Watson would only let his son have 8 clubs until he learned to play them well and could break 80. Tom felt that 14 clubs introduce too many variables to a beginners game. And, less clubs promoted shot making. Mr. Watson got his, and his son's clubs, for free and custom made if he wanted. The story I heard had the boy breaking 80 in Jr High. That meant he played for several years with other kids who had full sets, his dad was a pro, and he had 8 clubs. Don't know if it is true, but it makes the point. (Heard it from a guy at Ram Golf when Watson was playing Ram clubs.)

Interesting point of view, thanks for sharing. I can definitely see the point made and I even tend to do this myself, as I rely on my 3w/5w/7i a lot. I do hit the driver off the tee well enough.

Driver: TaylorMade SuperFast 2.0 -- 10.5* Woods: TaylorMade SuperFast 2.0 -- 3w 15*, 5w 18* Hybrid: TaylorMade Burner SuperFast 2.0 Rescue -- 4h 21* Irons: TaylorMade Burner Plus -- 5-AW Wedges: TaylorMade RAC -- 56.12, 60.07 Putter: TaylorMade Spider Ghost -- 35" Ball: It's complicated.

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Note: This thread is 4434 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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