Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 1575 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi All,

I'm relatively new to the game, started in April this year. I've broken the 100 once (98) and regularly getting between 100-109ish at the moment.

I'm using a set of Wilson Staff Di11 irons which have strong lofts - PW is 43 degree.

Above this I have a bit of a mix - Titleist DCI PW (48), Cleveland CG16 (52), Cleveland CBX2 (56), Cleveland CG16 (58) - I only really use a 58 in the bunker or for a lob shot and find 58 easier to hit than a 60 and guess there isnt much difference.

Now the Titleist 48 is old I want to replace so whilst im at it, im not sure if I change the others too so i'm considering a few options.

Option 1

Just get a different 48 and keep all other wedges the same.

Option 2

Go down the route of 46, 50, 54, 58 - Ideally get them all as a CBX2

Option 3

Remove a wedge and go 46, 52, 58 (or 48, 54, 58)

Edited by afromua5
formatting

  • Moderator
Posted
2 hours ago, afromua5 said:

Hi All,

I'm relatively new to the game, started in April this year. I've broken the 100 once (98) and regularly getting between 100-109ish at the moment.

I'm using a set of Wilson Staff Di11 irons which have strong lofts - PW is 43 degree.

Above this I have a bit of a mix - Titleist DCI PW (48), Cleveland CG16 (52), Cleveland CBX2 (56), Cleveland CG16 (58) - I only really use a 58 in the bunker or for a lob shot and find 58 easier to hit than a 60 and guess there isnt much difference.

Now the Titleist 48 is old I want to replace so whilst im at it, im not sure if I change the others too so i'm considering a few options.

Option 1

Just get a different 48 and keep all other wedges the same.

Option 2

Go down the route of 46, 50, 54, 58 - Ideally get them all as a CBX2

Option 3

Remove a wedge and go 46, 52, 58 (or 48, 54, 58)

Welcome to The Sand Trap. If you are new to the game, how would you rate your ball striking in terms of solid contact? The reason I ask is because it may be better for you to work with less wedges and learn to hit partial wedge shots to cover your gaps. Club setup is really all about distance gaps. 

Example: Let’s say you hit your 43 degree PW 120 yards with a full swing. You could then hit it 100 yards with a 3/4 swing, 80 with 1/2 swing. If you got a 50, 54, 58 setup, then you could cover the gaps with partial wedge shots. I almost never hit a full SW or LW shot. This would leave room in your bag for a long hybrid or another fairway.

Check this thread out.

 

 

  • Thumbs Up 1

Scott

Titleist, Edel, Scotty Cameron Putter, Snell - AimPoint - Evolvr - MirrorVision

My Swing Thread

boogielicious - Adjective describing the perfect surf wave

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
4 minutes ago, boogielicious said:

Welcome to The Sand Trap. If you are new to the game, how would you rate your ball striking in terms of solid contact? The reason I ask is because it may be better for you to work with less wedges and learn to hit partial wedge shots to cover your gaps. Club setup is really all about distance gaps. 

Example: Let’s say you hit your 43 degree PW 120 yards with a full swing. You could then hit it 100 yards with a 3/4 swing, 80 with 1/2 swing. If you got a 50, 54, 58 setup, then you could cover the gaps with partial wedge shots. I almost never hit a full SW or LW shot. This would leave room in your bag for a long hybrid or another fairway.

 

Ball striking has improved recently but still plenty of room for improvement I would say.

I get what you're saying, it makes sense. So is your suggestion in the example to go 43, 50, 54, 58 with nothing in between the 43 and 50?


  • Moderator
Posted
52 minutes ago, afromua5 said:

Ball striking has improved recently but still plenty of room for improvement I would say.

I get what you're saying, it makes sense. So is your suggestion in the example to go 43, 50, 54, 58 with nothing in between the 43 and 50?

Yes. Also, try to get your partial wedge distances down for your current wedges.

Scott

Titleist, Edel, Scotty Cameron Putter, Snell - AimPoint - Evolvr - MirrorVision

My Swing Thread

boogielicious - Adjective describing the perfect surf wave

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
20 hours ago, afromua5 said:

Hi All,

I'm relatively new to the game, started in April this year. I've broken the 100 once (98) and regularly getting between 100-109ish at the moment.

I'm using a set of Wilson Staff Di11 irons which have strong lofts - PW is 43 degree.

Above this I have a bit of a mix - Titleist DCI PW (48), Cleveland CG16 (52), Cleveland CBX2 (56), Cleveland CG16 (58) - I only really use a 58 in the bunker or for a lob shot and find 58 easier to hit than a 60 and guess there isnt much difference.

Now the Titleist 48 is old I want to replace so whilst im at it, im not sure if I change the others too so i'm considering a few options.

Option 1

Just get a different 48 and keep all other wedges the same.

Option 2

Go down the route of 46, 50, 54, 58 - Ideally get them all as a CBX2

Option 3

Remove a wedge and go 46, 52, 58 (or 48, 54, 58)

Option 4: Save your money and get some lessons, then revisit this when you consistently in the 90s. Hard pill to swallow, but the clubs in the bottom of the bag are the least of your concern when you're scoring over 100.

What's in Shane's Bag?     

Ball: 2022 :callaway: Chrome Soft Triple Track Driver: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond 8° MCA Kai’li 70s FW: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond  H: :callaway: Apex Pro 21 20°I (3-PW) :callaway: Apex 21 UST Recoil 95 (3), Recoil 110 (4-PW). Wedges: :callaway: Jaws Raw 50°, 54°, 60° UST Recoil 110 Putter: :odyssey: Tri-Hot 5K Triple Wide 35”

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
2 hours ago, onthehunt526 said:

Option 4: Save your money and get some lessons, then revisit this when you consistently in the 90s. Hard pill to swallow, but the clubs in the bottom of the bag are the least of your concern when you're scoring over 100.

Thanks for the reply, but sorry even as a relative beginner I have to disagree on your generic statement.

I am taking lessons at the moment and it was after my recent short game lesson where I broke my 100.

I would say it is my short game that is costing me shots so I would prefer to practice with the clubs im going to keep rather than make do with what ive got and change in the future

 


Posted
On 9/28/2021 at 6:09 AM, afromua5 said:

Above this I have a bit of a mix - Titleist DCI PW (48), Cleveland CG16 (52), Cleveland CBX2 (56), Cleveland CG16 (58) - I only really use a 58 in the bunker or for a lob shot and find 58 easier to hit than a 60 and guess there isnt much difference.

Now the Titleist 48 is old I want to replace so whilst im at it, im not sure if I change the others too so i'm considering a few options.

Option 1

Just get a different 48 and keep all other wedges the same.

Option 2

Go down the route of 46, 50, 54, 58 - Ideally get them all as a CBX2

Option 3

Remove a wedge and go 46, 52, 58 (or 48, 54, 58)

The first question is do your existing wedges work properly and are you able to hit the necessary shots with them.  If so, why are you changing.  If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Secondly, wedges should be changed if the grooves are worn out and not gripping the ball to give you check on a green.  Depending on the golf ball you use it may not necessarily be the club.

Thirdly, do you use all the wedges, from 43* PW to the 58* LW.  For example, I have a 45* PW, 55* SW and 60* LW.  The bulk of my shots around the green are with the PW and the SW/LW are for bunker or flop shots mostly.

Finally, do you need to make space in your bag for other clubs, especially at the top end of the bag.  Hitting good long shots will help reduce your score more than you can imagine.  Get it close or onto the green from 100 to 200 yards and you can score much better

What's in the bag

  • Taylor Made r5 dual Draw 9.5* (stiff)
  • Cobra Baffler 4H (stiff)
  • Taylor Made RAC OS 6-9,P,S (regular)
  • Golden Bear LD5.0 60* (regular)
  • Aidia Z-009 Putter
  • Inesis Tour 900 golf ball
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
2 hours ago, afromua5 said:

would say it is my short game that is costing me shots

Very unlikely. The short game can help lower scores in the beginning. That’s because you’re getting better at getting up and down since you’re missing greens, and maybe cutting down on three putts. But long term it’s your ball striking that’s gonna help your score. 

:ping: G25 Driver Stiff :ping: G20 3W, 5W :ping: S55 4-W (aerotech steel fiber 110g shafts) :ping: Tour Wedges 50*, 54*, 58* :nike: Method Putter Floating clubs: :edel: 54* trapper wedge

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
1 hour ago, pganapathy said:

The first question is do your existing wedges work properly and are you able to hit the necessary shots with them.  If so, why are you changing.  If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Secondly, wedges should be changed if the grooves are worn out and not gripping the ball to give you check on a green.  Depending on the golf ball you use it may not necessarily be the club.

Thirdly, do you use all the wedges, from 43* PW to the 58* LW.  For example, I have a 45* PW, 55* SW and 60* LW.  The bulk of my shots around the green are with the PW and the SW/LW are for bunker or flop shots mostly.

Finally, do you need to make space in your bag for other clubs, especially at the top end of the bag.  Hitting good long shots will help reduce your score more than you can imagine.  Get it close or onto the green from 100 to 200 yards and you can score much better

The wedges are ok, but do find that the 48 can be a bit temperamental and the grooves arent great. Its a very old club and could do with being taken out of the bag (whether to be replaced or not)

This is where I thought about the gapping too so I can get it right first time and practice using clubs that I intend to keep rather than change again in a year or 2.

So the suggestion of leaving out the 48 and lowering the higher lofts down to 50 and 54 does appeal to me and gives me something to work with whilst also leaving a space in the bag.

I currently have a driver, 3 wood, 4 hybrid and then 5 iron so i could look at maybe adding a 4 iron and swapping the hybrid to a 3?

10 minutes ago, Vinsk said:

Very unlikely. The short game can help lower scores in the beginning. That’s because you’re getting better at getting up and down since you’re missing greens, and maybe cutting down on three putts. But long term it’s your ball striking that’s gonna help your score. 

Very true, but im not at 'long term' just yet. Im very much in the space of cutting out the wedge shots that go flying past the other side of the green and that is noe saving me shots and as said above, it makes sense to me to keep practicing in this area with the wedges/lofts that I intend to use for a long time coming. Hopefully that makes sense.


Posted
21 minutes ago, afromua5 said:

The wedges are ok, but do find that the 48 can be a bit temperamental and the grooves arent great. Its a very old club and could do with being taken out of the bag (whether to be replaced or not)

This is where I thought about the gapping too so I can get it right first time and practice using clubs that I intend to keep rather than change again in a year or 2.

So the suggestion of leaving out the 48 and lowering the higher lofts down to 50 and 54 does appeal to me and gives me something to work with whilst also leaving a space in the bag.

I currently have a driver, 3 wood, 4 hybrid and then 5 iron so i could look at maybe adding a 4 iron and swapping the hybrid to a 3?

Very true, but im not at 'long term' just yet. Im very much in the space of cutting out the wedge shots that go flying past the other side of the green and that is noe saving me shots and as said above, it makes sense to me to keep practicing in this area with the wedges/lofts that I intend to use for a long time coming. Hopefully that makes sense.

Well what I’m saying is if you really analyze your game it’s probably unlikely that your short game is where most your strokes are costing you. It’s not very common to see a high handicap golfer hit drives in the fairway then their approach shots just off the green then blunder the short game for a double bogey.

More often it’s a poor drive followed by a poor approach. Then they hit their third shot to 7’, miss the putt and think if they had a better short game they’d be so much better. Tour players only average 50% from seven feet.

Or they’ll drive OB, hit their third really nice. Then actually hit a nice approach just off the green laying four. They hit a bad chip and make a triple then claim their short game killed them.

This isn’t an opinion btw. This has been statistically proven quite thoroughly over the past several years. You would really enjoy reading Lowest Score Wins which was co-written by the site owner Erik Barzeski. 

  • Thumbs Up 1

:ping: G25 Driver Stiff :ping: G20 3W, 5W :ping: S55 4-W (aerotech steel fiber 110g shafts) :ping: Tour Wedges 50*, 54*, 58* :nike: Method Putter Floating clubs: :edel: 54* trapper wedge

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I'm of a different opinion (completely unbacked by any evidence or science whatsoever). I say go try some out. If you can afford it and want to change a club or four then by all means go ahead and do so. Maybe it won't help the short game or your scoring as well as you think it will or as well as more lessons but new clubs just plain feel good. Life's too short to play with clubs you're not enjoying as much as you think you should.

  • Thumbs Up 1

Posted

Little bit of a different take:

  • If you are regularly shooting over 100, IMO, focus on full swing improvement. You've likely got plenty of strokes to gain and you'll enjoy playing more. It will also help your wedge game.
  • If you are shooting in the 90's, IMO, focus on your short game. It's likely that's where the fastest and easiest stroke improvement exists.
  • Spend plenty of time practicing your wedges - go to a range for a big bucket of balls and do nothing but full and partial shots, never the same shot more than 2 times in a row, shots between 50-125 yards. You'll get better quickly after just a few buckets and you'll be surprised how it helps to be better from those distances.

All that said, at some point you need/want to have matching wedges that are well gapped. Both options 2 and 3 work depending on the rest of your bag. Why wait if you are ready.


  • Moderator
Posted
8 hours ago, afromua5 said:

Very true, but im not at 'long term' just yet. Im very much in the space of cutting out the wedge shots that go flying past the other side of the green and that is noe saving me shots and as said above, it makes sense to me to keep practicing in this area with the wedges/lofts that I intend to use for a long time coming. Hopefully that makes sense.

As @Zippo said above, go out a try some different brands and see/feel what you like the best. If you have golf buddies with different brands, see if you can borrow them and try them out at a practice range or even on the course.

Remember for wedges, bounce is your friend. Avoid low bounce lob wedges if you can. Bounce helps heavy shots glide through the turf and sand better. Toe and heel relief on wedges also helps with shots that you open the face up on.

I’m partial to Edel wedges. If there is a fitter near you (other than Club Champion. I don’t recommend them), then check them out too.

Scott

Titleist, Edel, Scotty Cameron Putter, Snell - AimPoint - Evolvr - MirrorVision

My Swing Thread

boogielicious - Adjective describing the perfect surf wave

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 1575 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • For someone with a very consistent swing speed and ball strike, upgrades may improve performance. For everyday golfers, probably not. I'm a rather odd player. I usually get best performance from basic pro or tour heads, but with lighter stock shaft from the model's standard driver set up. (Yes, current EXS is an exception.) When I get a full driver fitting, I usually try a couple of modest upgrade  (not super magic) shafts. Most of the time upgrade gives a couple of extra yards, or 10 yards less. Remember this about stock shafts: They are matched to a particular driver model to fit the type of player likely to adopt that model. Also, most OEMs offer a variety of stock shafts in their drivers. Test for which one works best. And, the final decider...  
    • Uh, seeing you're having trouble with hit-and-miss performance from inherited clubs... Get Fitted! IF the 910H pair don't work, swap them out. Also, only two degrees separation in loft is not much. You might consider a 4W (much more reliable than a 3W) plus hybrid. This would give more distance separation than two Hs. For hybrid, get one you can hit... Maybe a more benevolent 4H. Quite often I try to brand match my bridge clubs (FWs and Hs), and my irons and wedges... but not always. Whatever works!
    • Like others have said, get fitted. Since 2011, I have played some combination of 4W + 7W. I had a Cobra 3H and 4H a couple of years back, and would swap out the 7W for a 3H in cold months (keep out of cold wind, and rough thinner for wayward drives.) The 7W matched up with yardage often with 3H; the current 4H goes almost as long as 7W, but has a lower trajectory. 4H also bumped out 4i in last bag redo; I learned to hit stinger with 4H so that's my driving iron on tight holes with shallow landing area. Again, a side-by-side test will tell you which way to go. If 5W or 3H is meh, keep the 7W. Also, are you looking to replace the 7W with a 5W or 3H, or add a second bridge club (5W or 3H) to your bag?
    • Makes sense and aligns with other literature. Static stretching, especially for longer durations, can impede performance in strength and power activities. I would not want to do like hamstring, quad, and calf stretches then go immediately sprint. To me that sounds like a terrible Idea. I would rather start off walking, then jogging, then running, then ramp up to sprinting.  To me, static stretching isn't even a warmup activity. I like the term warmup; you want to get some exertion going before the activity.      a { text-decoration: none; color: #464feb; } tr th, tr td { border: 1px solid #e6e6e6; } tr th { background-color: #f5f5f5; }
    • Going to Florida for the usual February golf trip, and with our current weather, that date won't get here soon enough. Heading to Augusta GA for the Tuesday Master's practice round, will definitely get some golf in while I'm in the area for a few days. Hope to be able to catch up with @coachjimsc if he's around. Then it's back to Scotland first of July.  Playing 7 new courses, can't wait for that.  Then somewhere after that is the Rhode Island CC Member-Guest and then my normal October golf trip to Myrtle Beach.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.