Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
IGNORED

Master "Forged vs. Cast" or "Blade vs. Game-Improvement" Iron Thread


Note: This thread is 1992 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

  • Administrator
Posted
Hmm, I don't agree. I can feel a difference, and yes the shaft will have something to do with the "feel", but both sets were shafted with DG S300 shafts. I don't know about head design, but what I DO know is that they felt a little different on the hit.

The head shape, weight, etc. was different too.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Hmm, I don't agree. I can feel a difference, and yes the shaft will have something to do with the "feel", but both sets were shafted with DG S300 shafts. I don't know about head design, but what I DO know is that they felt a little different on the hit.

The shaft has a huge amount to do with the feel. Unfortunately, unless both sets of shafts were frequency matched and tipped the same way, it's probably not a safe bet that the shafts were providing identical feel.

I feel like I could feel the difference between cast and forged, but I've never subjected myself to one of these tests, so it could just be in my head. Whether it is or it isn't, I love the feel and the look of my forged clubs, and that's good enough for me.
Penta TP Ball || Nakashima Golf HTEC Tour Driver - w/ Mitsubishi Rayon Bassara 83g || Izett Golf 15* Deep Face 3-Wood - w/ Royal Precision Rifle Steel || MD 18* Hybrid - w/ Aerotech SteelFiber 110g || MP-58 3, 4 Irons... MP-60 5, 6 Irons... MP-32 7-PW - w/ Dynamic Gold || MP-T 53-08...

Posted
All of your comments make sense to me. Playing forged clubs has always had a mindset of being a "better" players clubs, and hard to hit. I play Macgregor PCB Tour's. I offer my clubs to anyone who wants to try it when at the range. Most people hit it very crisp, then quickly comment on how much purer it felt at contact. To better players this is the feel they speak about. This indicates that all is well with your swing. Cast clubs do not have the buttery feel when pured, and therefore, less feedback. They are also crafted from much softer steel and wear out faster. Fitting and flighting the irons makes all the difference in the world. I fit at least 5 golfers a month, and every one of them require several adjustments to optimize their performance (not to mention irons out of specs from the factory, common). If you play forged clubs, every other season you should check your loft and lie angles as well.

Titleist 909D2- Diamani Blue, 909F3-Diamani Blue
Macgregor PCB Tour - Miura forged 3-PW (Nippon 1150, soft stepped)
Macgregor Tourney Don White Custom Wedges 52,56,60
Bettinardi m5
Bridgeston B330SSkycaddie 4


  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
I've got a sam snead 3-iron blade.
I can strike it well 60% of the time.
That 3-iron is from the 80's
Technology in irons these days must mean blades are easier to hit.

Why do people say that blades are so hard to hit?

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
I've got a sam snead 3-iron blade.

I don't think blades are hard to hit. I think it's because I started out with blades at age 9 and learned to play with them. There wasn't really much of the "Game Improvment" around those days as metal woods were just starting to come on the market. Now-a-days new golfers can get some irons that are way easier to hit. The draw back is that these newer clubs cover up swing flaws you may have. So, when said new golfer tries a blade for the first time, he hits it poorly, stings his hands or wrist and vows never to play them again. That being said, I think the main reason people have a hard time with them is bacause they don't have the time to devote to the game. This is the reason I don't play them anymore. Once I got out of college and got a real job, I lost time to devote to the game and had to go more of the forgiving route. I haven't played blades for about 5 years now. But, I still hit by buddies MP32s and his brothers 690mb's every once in a while and I hit them well, just not as consistant.

Driver: taylormade.gif Tour Burner 9.5*
4 Wood: taylormade.gif200 Steel 16*
Irons: taylormade.gif Burner '09
Wedges: taylormade.gif RAC TP Satin 54*, 58*
Putter: odyssey.gif White Hot Tour #9  Ball: bridgestone.gif B330


Posted
IMO, no. Are they less forgiving on off center hits? Sure. Are they harder to hit? Not to me.

Kevin

-------
In the Bag
Driver: G15 9.0*3 & 5 Wood: BurnerHybrid: Pro Gold 20*; 23*Irons: MP-58 (5-PW)Wedges: Vokey Spin Milled 52*8; 56*14Putter: Newport 2.0 33"Balls: NXT


Posted
I've got a sam snead 3-iron blade.

They're not hard to hit - on the driving range. Some blades are harder to get airborne (the shaft has a big role too) if the COG is higher. You have to be a bit more precise as they do tend twist a bit more on off center hits (like most hits are) and it's easier to mysteriously come up 2 clubs short or go 2 clubs long. If you're willing to accept that you're probably not going to be knocking down as many flagsticks, they're not hard at all.

BTW - post a pic of your 3 iron. I didn't realize they were still putting out equipment with Sam Snead on it in the 1980s.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
I don't think they're not that hard to hit, in my case I find it easier. I think some people find them hard to hit, cause they don't hit down on the ball, they try to help the club to put the ball in the air, so they can't hit them.

Cheers!

Driver: 905R 9.5° (UST Proforce V2 Stiff) | Fairway: 906F2 15° (UST Proforce V2 Stiff) | Hybrid: 585.H 21° (S300) | Irons: AP2 4-PW (Project X 6.0) | Wedges: Vokey Design 52.08, 56.11 & 60.11  | Putter: Studio Select Newport 2 

www.flickr.com/avm_photo


Posted
I don't think they're not that hard to hit, in my case I find it easier. I think some people find them hard to hit, cause they don't hit down on the ball, they try to help the club to put the ball in the air, so they can't hit them.

If your signature is correct, you aren't really playing a blade. You are playing the same club I have, the Titleist AP-2, which is a forged player's dual cavity. It isn't a GI iron, but it also isn't a blade.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
They're not hard to hit - on the driving range. Some blades are harder to get airborne (the shaft has a big role too) if the COG is higher. You have to be a bit more precise as they do tend twist a bit more on off center hits (like most hits are) and it's easier to mysteriously come up 2 clubs short or go 2 clubs long. If you're willing to accept that you're probably not going to be knocking down as many flagsticks, they're not hard at all.

Wow it's actually from the 60's/70's

A friend gave it to me when he was cleaning out his shed. I looked it up and thought it was from the 80's turns out it's a lot older. I can't give a picture of my one because I don't have a camera. It's in great condition though. No rust. My friend didn't play golf. Here's a pic of one exactly the same. When I say I hit it well I mean it doesn't sting my hands! But I notice that it goes very straight when I hit it well. I think blade clubfaces nowadays aren't the same size as the ball! EDIT: It's actually from 1962, has the original grip too.(brilliant condition) Wonder if it's worth anything?

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
What's your take on this? Do you play clubs that are "better" than you? Do you play clubs at your current level? Maybe you've managed to use game improvement irons to get to a really low handicap. What's your philosophy on choosing equipment?

I learned this game with forged blades, as did most my age. When I stopped playing/practicing as much, I made the switch to a helper club. Ping i3 blades I think. Had almost a 7 year layoff from golf (been back almost 3 now), and as I started to 'find' my swing again, thought I needed a better helper club. Bought the S57s about a year and a half ago, and played them fairly well. But I was having trouble hitting a couple of my old go-to shots: a low/stinger fade with a long iron, and the high soft fade with a short iron. Also, controlling trajectory took (what I though) was way too much effort.

Last Sunday I played my third round with my new MP68s and still have this stupid grin on my face. High, low, left, right now requires only minor changes to hands/club face, and I'm discovering that I can still work the ball fairly well for a weekend hack. Sorry, but I digress... To answer your question, I think you should play whatever allows you to achieve your golfing goals. I think people who want a better swing, should be playing clubs that will tell them when and what they are doing wrong so that they can improve. People who for whatever reason want to play the best with their existing swing should play whatever helps in the pursuit of that goal. Your mileage may vary.

In the Bag

Ping i15 8* Diamana Whiteboard

Titleist 909f3 13.5* Aldila NV

Ping S57 3-PW KBS C-taper

Macgregor 52, 56, and 60 wedges

SC Newport 2.5

 

Light travels faster than sound. That is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

 


Posted
I'm somewhere in between blade and game improvement. Probably leaning more towards game improvement. I love my 690s to death. When you hit any Titleist club pure it feels like butter! Titleist FTW (yeah, I just said FTW).

Posted
I don't think they're not that hard to hit, in my case I find it easier.

So you do think they are hard to hit. Double-negative. Sorry, I just had to say it.


Posted
So you do think they are hard to hit. Double-negative. Sorry, I just had to say it.

no?

He said he didn't find them hard to hit. Then he said he found hitting blades were easier than GI irons

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
The head shape, weight, etc. was different too.

I spine all of my shafts and weigh heads so they are 6-8 grams apart, but you are correct. The 2 set were different; Maxfli A-10's and MacGregor VIP 1025's. I believe the A-10's were a little heavier.

Bias as I am, when it comes right down to it I prefer forged.

Posted
You may have the right clubs but the wrong wife.

Titleist 909D2- Diamani Blue, 909F3-Diamani Blue
Macgregor PCB Tour - Miura forged 3-PW (Nippon 1150, soft stepped)
Macgregor Tourney Don White Custom Wedges 52,56,60
Bettinardi m5
Bridgeston B330SSkycaddie 4


Posted
If your signature is correct, you aren't really playing a blade. You are playing the same club I have, the Titleist AP-2, which is a forged player's dual cavity. It isn't a GI iron, but it also isn't a blade.

Yeap, but I've been playing some rounds with a friends 690Mb's and I find them easier to hit and to shape shots. I'm seriously thinking of buying the ZM's or try out the new Mb's.

Cheers!

Driver: 905R 9.5° (UST Proforce V2 Stiff) | Fairway: 906F2 15° (UST Proforce V2 Stiff) | Hybrid: 585.H 21° (S300) | Irons: AP2 4-PW (Project X 6.0) | Wedges: Vokey Design 52.08, 56.11 & 60.11  | Putter: Studio Select Newport 2 

www.flickr.com/avm_photo


Note: This thread is 1992 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • I'm not sure you're calculating the number of strokes you would need to give correctly. The way I figure it, a 6.9 index golfer playing from tees that are rated 70.8/126 would have a course handicap of 6. A 20-index golfer playing from tees that are rated 64/106 would have a course handicap of 11. Therefore, based on the example above, assuming this is the same golf course and these index & slope numbers are based on the different tees, you should only have to give 5 strokes (or one stroke on the five most difficult holes if match play) not 6. Regardless, I get your point...the average golfer has no understanding of how the system works and trying to explain it to people, who haven't bothered to read the documentation provided by either the USGA or the R&A, is hopeless. In any case, I think the WHS as it currently is, does the best job possible of leveling the playing field and I think most golfers (obviously, based on the back & forth on this thread, not all golfers) at least comprehend that.   
    • Day 115 12-5 Skills work tonight. Mostly just trying to be more aware of the shaft and where it's at. Hit foam golf balls. 
    • Day 25 (5 Dec 25) - total rain day, worked on tempo and distance control.  
    • Yes it's true in a large sample like a tournament a bunch of 20 handicaps shouldn't get 13 strokes more than you. One of them will have a day and win. But two on one, the 7 handicap is going to cover those 13 strokes the vast majority of the time. 20 handicaps are shit players. With super high variance and a very asymmetrical distribution of scores. Yes they shoot 85 every once in a while. But they shoot 110 way more often. A 7 handicap's equivalent is shooting 74 every once in a while but... 86 way more often?
    • Hi Jack.  Welcome to The Sand Trap forum.   We're glad you've joined.   There is plenty of information here.   Enjoy!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.