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Posted
i've been practicing hitting shaped shots. no problems with my fade and my draw is coming along nicely but can't seem to draw w/ my driver. i have no problem w/ my irons,3hybrid and my 3wood. any tips? i know its hard to diagnose my problem with out a video but any tip would be helpful. maybe play the ball a bit closer to the middle of my stance? i can hit the driver straight and also a cut/fade. when i try to draw my driver, its like 40% push, 40% massive hook and 20% very very low draw that starts to roll around the 100-150 yards... its pretty frustrating...

In my bag:
Driver: R9 TP Rombax Stiff
3 Wood: R9 TP 85g Stiff
3 hybrid: X
4-SW: X-20 Uniflex

SteelLW: Forged Chrome

Putter: White Hot XG #1


Posted
Good luck getting help with that problem. I wish I was comfortable enough with my ball striking to start working on shaping shots. Most of us run into a shot shaping situation and just kind of wing it. What is your process when you are trying to draw the driver? Closed stance, pointing left or right of target, closed club face, swing plane change? Whenever I want to draw with my driver I concentrate on keeping my head behind the ball. That probably won't help you here though.

My Clubs
Nicklaus Progressive XC Irons: 3H,4H, 5-GW
Ray Cook SW & Gyro 1 Putter
Taylor Made Burner Driver 10.5
Taylor Made V-Steel 3 & 5 MetalsMy Home Course: Indian RiverMy Blog: Rant-o-Rama-Ding-Dong


Posted

How to draw your driver:

1) I keep my regular swing but turn the club face closed and to where I want the ball to end up and line up where I want the ball to start.
2) If the above does not work you can also try a stronger grip
3) taking the club more inside the line and finish inside
4) bring your rear leg inside to create an more inside swing
5) rotate your hands more

watch this video to influence the flight of the ball:

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


Posted
All things considered...you dont really need to draw or fade your driver on the am level..just worry about hitting it strait...
THE WEAPONS CACHE..

Titleist 909 D2 9.5 Degree Driver| Titleist 906f4 13.5 degree 3-Wood | Titleist 909 17 & 21 degree hybrid | Titleist AP2 irons
Titleist Vokey Wedges - 52 & 58 | Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter | ProV1 Ball

Posted
I am in a similar situation, I can hit it straight or a slight cut. Last month I learned how to hit a baby draw.

As mentioned the things I have tried to handle the draw are: In my experience both of them worked but I am trying to stay with the last one, I'll explain.

1. Aim right (everything, as if you want to hit to the right trees). Close clubface aiming it towards the middle or left FW. Same swing along your line.
This works but for me at least, sometimes I just hit it straight into the trees with no draw, so it is too risky.

2. Aim to the middle or middle right of the FW. Take a normal grip and just think to myself, hook this into the left trees. I have noticed I just release the hands enough to hit a baby draw. The difficult part is tinkering with the grip. If I use a stronger grip than usual, that swing thought will become reality, so go to the range and see if you can draw it with one of these methods. If you try #2 and suddenly start seeing yourself releasing too much and hooking it, take a weaker grip, ie. Hogan.

Blade Stand Bag
905R 11.5 R flex
Tight Lies 3 Wood
Ci7 Irons 4-GW R Flex
Vokey SM Wedges 54 / 58Classic Putter #1 34"ProV1 or U-Tri Tour or E5+


Posted
Contrary to popular belief, you should not change your swing itself depending on the shot you want to hit... unless you are a pro.

The easy way to make the ball do what you want is through the release.

Slightly Late release = fade , slightly early release = draw.

I do not recc. messing with this unless you have a solid understanding of clubhead position and angle throughout your swing.

Posted
I know Lee Trevino was a big believer in only changing his grip to promote draw or fade. Of course, he was not regarded as a great drawer of golf ball, though.
Driver: SQ DYMO STR8-Fit
4 Wood: SQ DYMO
2H (17*), 4H (23*) & 5H (26*): Fli-Hi CLK
Irons (5-6): MX-900; (7-PW): MP-60
Wedges (51/6*): MP-T Chrome; (56/13): MP-R ChromePutter: White Hot XG 2-Ball CSPreferred Ball: e5+/e7+/B330-RXGPS Unit: NEOPush Cart: 2.0

Posted
I would have thought the easiest way to draw is to make sure you flip your hands in your follow through. No change in swing or setup.

HiBore 10.5 driver
GT-500 3- and 5-woods
Bazooka JMax 4 Iron Wood
Big Bertha 2008 irons (4 and 5 i-brids, 6i-9i,PW)
Tom Watson 56 SW Two-Ball putter


Posted
I know Lee Trevino was a big believer in only changing his grip to promote draw or fade. Of course, he was not regarded as a great drawer of golf ball, though.

A recent tip in Golf or Golf Digest magazine showed adjusting the left hand stronger or weaker (right hand same) to shape shots - thats what I use too (though I struggle with how much).

"You can live to be a hundred if you give up all the things that make you want to live to be a hundred." Woody Allen
My regular pasture.


Posted
do not...if you're an amateur attempt to "flip" your hands...you can draw the ball using your regular swing with minor fixes ie change of plane, face angle, etc. "flipping" your hands will only instill in muscle memory and follow you to other clubs in your bag, not the best advice imo

In my Titleist 2014 9.5" Staff bag:

Cobra Bio+ 9* Matrix White Tie X  - Taylormade SLDR 15* ATTAS 80X - Titleist 910H 19* ATTAS 100X - Taylormade '13 TP MC 4-PW PX 6.5 - Vokey TVD M 50* DG TI X100 - Vokey SM4 55 / Vokey SM5 60* DG TI S400 - Piretti Potenza II 365g


Posted
alright, on your downswing, try and get your arms moving faster than the turn of your body. What this will do is close the clubface and will provide a reliable draw. Hope this helps.

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha Diablo 9º
2 Hybrid: Callaway Big Bertha Heavenwood
Irons: Nike Slingshot OSS 6-3 iron
          Taylormade Tour Preferred PW-7 iron
Wedges: Cleveland CG14 50º, 54º
              Taylormade RAC 58º
Putter: Ping Darby 32" shaft


 


Posted
All things considered...you dont really need to draw or fade your driver on the am level..just worry about hitting it strait...

i want to learn to draw with my driver cause a lot of courses i've played, a draw drive would come very useful. i'm not asking so i can just try and add the shot to my bag. i want to actually use it on the course.

In my bag:
Driver: R9 TP Rombax Stiff
3 Wood: R9 TP 85g Stiff
3 hybrid: X
4-SW: X-20 Uniflex

SteelLW: Forged Chrome

Putter: White Hot XG #1


Posted
there are many many things you could try - but why mess w/ a good swing if you dont have to?

remember when phil played 2 drivers at augusta w/ the same swing?

If you really want the draw to be your shot on every driving hole - just throw a couple of swing weights worth of lead tape on the heel.

i fight a hook - so i put 2 peices on my drivers toe and voila - no hook, just a baby draw.

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