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Posted
I reccomend 1 Iron Golf clubs for the sake of simplicity. They are expensive for some people though. More generically, make sure the set is cavity backed for forgiveness of mishits. Another option is to get fitted for the clubs, which will be based on your bodyshape, strength, and natural athletic disposition.

Driver: 600t 10.5*
3Wood: TBD
Irons: 1 Iron Golf 3i-PW
Putter: O-Blade
Hobby: I enjoy collecting samples of vintage Ping


Posted
Cheap.
Just make sure to get game improvement.

My suggestion is to buy used. I bought new and then found these forums and I could have saved a lot of money.

In my bag
Burner 10.5* reg
3h & 4-P S57
Wedges: 56* CCI and 60* SV Tour
DF 960


Posted
I would look at used sets on callaway pre-owned (they also sell other brands), ebay (best to stick to the top-rated sellers), or other reputable sites and get a set of used cavity-backs after reading some reviews (just google the model) to get an understanding as to who the clubs are designed for. You will be able to find a decent set for a good price.

In terms of fitting, I'm not sure how helpful fitting would be at this point because your swing is probably inconsistent, but if you are significantly above or below "average height" (~ 5'10''), you may want buy a set with more upright lie angles (if you are taller) or flatter angles (if you are shorter). Golfsmith and Ping each have links on their sites where you can estimate your optimal lie angle based on your height and/or arm to floor distance (Ping will give you a "color dot" which stands for a lie angle). This won't be perfect, but it should be better than nothing.
Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge 10*
Woods: Mizuno F-60 (15*, 18*); Hybrids: Callaway FT-iZ 21*, Callaway X 24*
Irons: Mizuno MX 25 (5I - GW)
Wedges: Mizuno MP T Chrome (56/10), MP T-10 Black Satin (60/8)
Putter: Odyssey White Hot Tour #9

Posted
I would go to a pro shop - Dicks, Golfsmith, etc and get fit for clubs. Write down the specs and search for a used set on Ebay. you may be taller (Like me) or shorter than average, and need something longer or shorter than standard or the lie degree changed. getting fit will tell you. Then search irons +1/2 or minus - 1/2 and you'll find all you need and more. Don't even enter a brand, just search irons. You'll save yourself some cash that you could invest in a lesson or two. Good luck!
Tools of the trade: Red=Pics
2.0 Push Cart
V14 Club Count Cart Bag
Driver - Nike SQ Dymo 2 HL w/Cleveland Headcover
Fairway Wood - Hibore XLS 5 WoodHybrids - Hibore 3,4,5Irons - CG Gold 6-PWWedges - CG14 52 & 60 CG15 - 56 Degree Custom Squareback 1

Posted
I would go to a pro shop - Dicks, Golfsmith, etc and get fit for clubs. Write down the specs and search for a used set on Ebay. you may be taller (Like me) or shorter than average, and need something longer or shorter than standard or the lie degree changed. getting fit will tell you. Then search irons +1/2 or minus - 1/2 and you'll find all you need and more. Don't even enter a brand, just search irons. You'll save yourself some cash that you could invest in a lesson or two. Good luck!

This right here is sound advice for a new golfer. This game can be expensive and until you figure your game out saving money anyway you can is definately a plus.

In my Nike Xtreme II Bag:
Driver Str8-Fit SQ Dymo2 S
Irons CG Gold 5-PW
Hybrids 3&4 Hibore XLS
Putter Rossa Daytona I Putter Ignite MalletBall ProV1xWedges Glove StaSofShoes Heritage


Posted
What's a good set of starter clubs?

Consider boxed sets.

http://thesandtrap.com/bag_drop/club...der_boxed_sets

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Would these be good?

I'll go ahead and tell ya, you can get those but they won't last long at all. If you're just starting to golf and are completely new to the game I guess those would work to practice with, but to go to the course and start improving your game I don't think the clubs you have posted would do much good. You can find a very nice set of brand clubs used off of ebay or somewhere, yes it will cost a little more but it'll be a much better investment. I bought the Ti-Tech 9.5* 460cc driver from Wal-Mart for $20 just to hit around the yard into the net and the first ball I struck the club dented and cracked. So IMHO I'd suggest checking around the net for some higher end used clubs. You could find a very nice used or maybe even new set for around $200-300. Plus a driver. You can actually exclude the driver for now, but that's up to you. Again, this is just my opinion. Check out the marketplace here and see what some folks have for sale you may run across a deal you can't pass up. Hope this helps.

In my Nike Xtreme II Bag:
Driver Str8-Fit SQ Dymo2 S
Irons CG Gold 5-PW
Hybrids 3&4 Hibore XLS
Putter Rossa Daytona I Putter Ignite MalletBall ProV1xWedges Glove StaSofShoes Heritage


Posted
I started my golf with a private lesson, and my teacher kindly let use one of many his sets for his teaching. After ~12 or more lessons, he helped me to test several set and identified club working for me. You would be surprised to find out that how different set of clubs is working or not working for you.

Driver: Big Bertha 460, (9° Steel) | Wood: X Fairway 3W (15° Steel) | Hybrid: X 3H (21° Steel) |
Irons: 4-PW, MP-52 (TT DG S300) | Wedges: X-Forged Chrome 52°/13, 56°/15, 60°/10 (TT DG S300) |
Putter: Ping Karsten Anser


Posted
I agree with KyGolfer. I'd only get those ones if you're really unsure that you're going to play much---they'll hit the ball, but they're probably not going to last. I had a set of off-brand Dunlops that lasted a while, then actually broke through the hosels (the metal part) on ordinary shots. That shouldn't happen.

A quick look at rockbottomgolf.com turns up a full set of Nickents for $200; those probably aren't great clubs, but I'd tend to trust a better-known brand more than the ones you listed. As KyG pointed out, you may not actually need or find much use for a driver for a while, so you could consider picking up a used set of irons, a putter, and a bag, then add clubs as necessary. If you think you're going to try to get into the game more seriously, I think this will be a much better route. You can probably pick up a set of used irons, a putter, a bag, and maybe a fairway wood or hybrid for ~ $300 or a bit more. The advantage is that you won't have to dump them when you decide to get more serious.

In the bag:
FT-iQ 10° driver, FT 21° neutral 3H
T-Zoid Forged 15° 3W, MX-23 4-PW
Harmonized 52° GW, Tom Watson 56° SW, X-Forged Vintage 60° LW
White Hot XG #1 Putter, 33"


Posted
What kind of budget are you working with? A boxed set may be a good place to start if your looking to keep it simple and cheap. If you want to spend a bit more I would recommend getting fitted for a set of components. My first "real" set that wasn't my dads old hand me down blades was a set of XPC midsized cavity backs. They served me well for quite a long time and were relatively cheap. You could also look on the websites that some have listed above to find some pre-owned clubs. Most important take at least one lesson, it will help you more than any amount of money you could possibly spend on clubs.

4DX Evolver 10.5 Stiff UST V2
Big Bertha Steelhead Plus 3wood
mp-32 3-pw tt x100's
xtour 56/52deg
feel golf 60 deg lob wedge dual force rossie blade I golf balls


Posted
any game improvement clubs. try not to get sucked into getting irons you see in play on the tour/s. it will only lead to tears and frustration.

callaway big berthas
ping g5, g10s
are great to learn on
Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge Tour 10.5* (UST Proforce v2 77g X Flex) 3 Wood: Callaway Diablo 15* (UST Proforce v2 86g S Flex). 2 Hybrid: Adams A4 Tech 17* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex). 3 and 4 Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro 20* and 23* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex)
Irons: Tour Edge Exotics...

Posted
Yer looking for basically anything that is cavity back and not a blade style (solid back) and regardless of what you buy look around your area for a clubfitter/maker who can adjust the lofts and lies for your swing. You'll stand a better chance of learning a correct swing with clubs that are not likely causing mis-hits.

KZG Gemini 9* Aldila Proto By You
Leyland COPlasma 3wd
Golfsmith Q4 19*
Louisville HyLofter 24*
Wishon 770CFEs w/Nippons
Alpha P2 wedges
Louisville EWP putter


Posted
I would get a Ping fitting done and get the G15 irons. You will most likely do better with fitted equipment right from the start than some off the rack clubs that the sales guy recommends.

Posted
What kind of budget are you working with? A boxed set may be a good place to start if your looking to keep it simple and cheap. If you want to spend a bit more I would recommend getting fitted for a set of components. My first "real" set that wasn't my dads old hand me down blades was a set of XPC midsized cavity backs. They served me well for quite a long time and were relatively cheap. You could also look on the websites that some have listed above to find some pre-owned clubs. Most important take at least one lesson, it will help you more than any amount of money you could possibly spend on clubs.

My budget is kinda tight....LOL! I was thinking about boxed sets, to start out.


Posted
Would these be good?

These might be good if you could see them in person.

If you are a beginning golfer, consider going to a golf shop where someone could let you hit a few balls, and make sure the clubs fit you. Several different companies make decent starter sets. Although you don't need a full custom fitting at this time, you want to make sure that you pick a set which fits your build and physique. (Early goal = avoid misfitting clubs; don't worry about finding perfect set until later.) Also, consider taking lessons if you haven't played much before. A couple of lessons at the beginning can show you a few basics which make playing a lot easier. In many areas, group lessons for beginners are a fun way to start. Give us an update on what happens.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 5894 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Day 254 5-4 Arms off chest in backswing and downswing. Short swing, pause and then hit.  Hit foam balls. Keeping arching of wrist a focus as well. 
    • I would think of it in terms of time. The time it takes to get the arm angle into a good position to deliver the club with proper shaft lean. Another component is rotation, but that is also a matter of timing. It relates to how the body stalls to give the golfer time to hit the ball. If you have to get 80+ degrees out of that right elbow in one third of a second versus 50 degrees in the same time then you have to steal time from somewhere. It is usually body rotation. That does not help with shaft lean.  I agree in that amateurs tend to make the swing more complicated than pro golfers. 
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    • Day 580 - 2026-05-04 Played eight holes. Sometimes golf kicks you in the nuts. 😉 
    • I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
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