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Differences Between Driver Swing and Iron Swing (Driver Swing vs. Iron Swing Master Thread)


Finn07
Note: This thread is 3910 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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My driver swing is much more baseball-like than my iron swing, and I don't think trying to swing my irons the same way is that great an idea. I consciously hit down on the ball with my wedges (which you approach from a steeper angle anyway), tend to take mini-divots if at all with my irons, and sweep my woods. They look and feel like three different -- if related -- swings to me, particularly since weight distribution is completely different for wedges and woods, as is ball placement. While the goal may be to have all of the swings feel natural so that you don't have to think about your swing at all, I think for most people their swings are different. Even some pros who pick up their irons immediately don't do it with their woods.

In my C-130 Cart Bag:

Driver: Titleist D2 10.5° Aldila R.I.P. 60
Woods Exotics CB4 15° Aldila R.I.P. 70
Hybrids Exotics CB4 17°, 22° Aldila R.I.P. 80 

Irons 4-PW MP-57 Project X 6.0, MP-29 PW

Wedges  Eidolon 52°, 60° Rifle Spinner 6.5

Putter Bettinardi BB12

Ball One Black

Rangefinder Nikon Laser 500"Golf...

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My driver swing is much more baseball-like than my iron swing, and I don't think trying to swing my irons the same way is that great an idea. I consciously hit down on the ball with my wedges (which you approach from a steeper angle anyway), tend to take mini-divots if at all with my irons, and sweep my woods. They look and feel like three different -- if related -- swings to me, particularly since weight distribution is completely different for wedges and woods, as is ball placement. While the goal may be to have all of the swings feel natural so that you don't have to think about your swing at all, I think for most people their swings are different. Even some pros who pick up their irons immediately don't do it with their woods.

The driver shot is naturally flatter than your irons because it is a much longer club. Every club in your bag gets progressively longer from your 60 degree wedge to your driver. You have to place the ball further out from your body, the swing plane gets progressively flatter. You don't swing on the same plane as your pitching wedge. So techinically you are not swinging the exact same way but you still swing on plane, still set your wrists the same way, still turn the shoulders the same way, etc.

My Clubs
Nicklaus Progressive XC Irons: 3H,4H, 5-GW
Ray Cook SW & Gyro 1 Putter
Taylor Made Burner Driver 10.5
Taylor Made V-Steel 3 & 5 MetalsMy Home Course: Indian RiverMy Blog: Rant-o-Rama-Ding-Dong

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I understand everything so far in regards to swing plane, etc.

I have a question about the hips. From my understanding, the hips should be much more turned to the target at the point of impact when hitting driver. But the hips should only be slightly ahead of the hands at impact when hitting irons. Is that correct?
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I know that in theory the two swings should be the same....but I don't practice that.....and therein may lie the reason for my handicap

I would suggest not trying to hit down with your irons and not trying to sweep with a driver. Just

swing . I know, if only things could be that simple But it all comes down to your posture/set up. You should be set up so that you swing bottoms out after the ball from wedge to your hybrid, and set up so that when you make the same exact swing as you did with your wedge, your driver bottoms out before you hit the ball and you catch it on the upswing. Go and study/read about how to get into the correct stance, it will help you wonders.

Driver: Tour Burner 10.5*
3 Wood: Hibore 15*
3 Hybrid: 3dx DC 20*
Irons: i5 4-PW
Gap Wedge: cg12 50*Sand Wedge: cg12 54*Putter: g5i anserIn my grom bag :)

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The setup is what I'm trying to work on right now. I don't know if it's the tees being too high at my local range (even using their shortest) or if my swing is just off. I tend to popup the ball too often basically just hitting all tee and no ball.

In my bag:
Driver: HiBore XLS (9.5*, stiff, gold shaft)
Irons: FP II 4-GW
Wedges: mp R series 56/13 588DSG 60*
Putter: Unitized TiempoBag: ADIDAS Velocity

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My swing is different. Off the tee, I have a longer swing (shaft parallel to ground) and I get much more power from the ground up. I'm typically the long ball in my group. With my irons, I take a much shorter and controlled swing. I don't draw the ball with irons, except for maybe a yard or two, and I aim dead at the target. My driver typically draws quite a bit. I don't rely so much on power from my irons, as I haven't found a need to.. Haven't been to many courses that require a really powerful iron to reach in regulation, and if it does, i just lay up.

In my bag:
Cleveland Launcher Comp 9.5 Pro Launch 65-s
Cleveland Launcher Comp 3 wood 13* Cleveland Stiff
Titleist 690-CB 3-PW
Vokey 252.08, SM56.10, SM60.04Scotty Cameron Newport 2Looking for a 18-20* 585h

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New driver to try out now.

Shouldnt have as much issue at the range since it's now a "full size" 460cc :)

In my bag:
Driver: HiBore XLS (9.5*, stiff, gold shaft)
Irons: FP II 4-GW
Wedges: mp R series 56/13 588DSG 60*
Putter: Unitized TiempoBag: ADIDAS Velocity

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  • 3 weeks later...
When you swing a golf club you create an arc, because of the difference in the length of clubs from driver to wedge that arc will differ. The swing plane will change because the length and lie angle is "flatter" in comparison to the rest of your clubs.
You shouldn't do anything other than put a nice smooth swing on it, and let the physical properties of the club do what they're designed to do. I see a lot of people try to do something "different" in their drive swing. You will need to change your ball position to some degree with different clubs and that again will have an effect on swing plane aspects however, my advice is, if you have a decent, repeatable swing with for example, one of your your mid-irons, use the same repeatable swing with your driver.
I am sure others will give you more information and advice but keeping the swing side of my golf simple has treated me well over many years.
Happy golfing.
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My iron and driver swings are actually a lot different. With my driver I focus on taking the club back low and extending as much as possible and therefore my arc is a lot bigger than with my irons. My iron swing is much shorter for accuracy and my lower body is way more quiet- with my irons at impact both feet are flat on the ground, but my left heel is off the ground at impact with my driver.

Cleveland Hi-bore 9.5* stiff, Taylormade Burner T3 14.5* stiff, Mizuno mp 32 3-PW, Nike SV Tour Black Satin 52, 56, 60* wedges, Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 35 inches
In the market for a new driver, then my bag will be the shiz.

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Think about it... a well struck iron shot compresses the ball and imparts a lot of back spin. You don't want back spin with a driver and you hope to not take a divot, so the swing-plane has to be different.

With your irons you want to shift your weight forward and hit down on the back of the ball. With the driver you finish with your weight over the left leg, but slightly less forward and your head hangs back slightly.

If the driver is a longer club and the impact is slightly upward through the ball, then you have to swing it differently than an iron. Your iron swing would be too steep. If you swing the driver like a seven iron, you'll be hitting low flat drives that won't be going very far.

SubPar
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The driver swing is flatter, but this is only due to the length of the club. Short irons will swing on a steeper plane, woods and driver will be on a shallower plane. This does NOT mean that you swing differently. It's the same basic swing.

This image is helpful:



Note: be the guy on the right, who swings the same with each club, not the guy on the left.

Driver: 909 D3 10.5 degree Aldila Voodoo S Shaft
3 Wood: MP 001
Irons: MP-67 3-PW
Wedges: 52, 56, 60
Putter: Karsten B60

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with the driver hit the back of the ball on the upswing.

with irons hit down on the ball compressing it into the turf.

too many slicers hit down on their drives putting side spin on the ball.

Taylormade Driver HT
Taylormade 3 HT

Mcgregor 7w
Vulcan irons 5-P
Solus 53 61

Vokey 56

Scotty Caneron Flange/ Ping Cushin

Srixon ZStar

71 gold tees

bring cash

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My driver swing and iron swings are the same for me. The ball position will be different but my swings are the same.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1

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It's the same but different.

My Clubs
Nicklaus Progressive XC Irons: 3H,4H, 5-GW
Ray Cook SW & Gyro 1 Putter
Taylor Made Burner Driver 10.5
Taylor Made V-Steel 3 & 5 MetalsMy Home Course: Indian RiverMy Blog: Rant-o-Rama-Ding-Dong

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  • 3 weeks later...
Hard to believe some of these comments. The best way to assess your swing plane is with a mirror. Because of the length of the driver shaft, you are further from the ball at address and the angle of the club is less upright than the angle that would be made by a short iron. To stay on the plane requires a flatter swing--which is not guaranteed by your set-up. Use the mirror to get a sense of how to take the club back to keep that same flatter angle. Plenty of golfers have a swing which is too upright and which encourages slicing. Too flat a swing plane encourages hooking. The best thing about a perfect swing plane is that it inevitably produces greater distance because the clubhead is traversing the most efficient swing path.
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My driver swing and iron swings are the same for me. The ball position will be different but my swings are the same.

I'm with you on this one,i don't feel like i change bar from ball position.

aeroburner tp 10.5 stiff
superfast tp 2.0 3 wood stiff
Halo 25 and taylormade tp 19 degree hybrids
miura cb 202 and wedge
tp 52* wedge, tp 56* taylormade spider mallet putter

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What you are stating makes sense. The bigger shoulder turn works better with woods off the tee because it comforms to the sweeping motion well. However, when you make a big shoulder turn with the irons, it takes more timing to hit the irons on the descending blow after such a turn, making timing a lot harder.
Irons are better hit with a shorter backswing anyway. Unless youa re hitting 3 or 2 irons, what you should be watching more is your wrist cock on the backswing and downswing. Remember, wrist cock and lag is the #1 power source in golf. It doesnt matter how much you turn your shoulders if you dont bend those wrists as much as possible. However in a catch-22, it is easier to bend the wrists properly when you do have a decent shoulder turn because it gives you more room.
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What you are stating makes sense. The bigger shoulder turn works better with woods off the tee because it comforms to the sweeping motion well. However, when you make a big shoulder turn with the irons, it takes more timing to hit the irons on the descending blow after such a turn, making timing a lot harder.

Hi, I'm afraid I can't agree with that "

Remember, wrist cock and lag is the #1 power source in golf " at all ! Why you think wrist cock is a power source ? In a micro segment/detail of the 1 plane swing could be important. But no school of golf teaches nothing about wrist cock-uncock in relation to the power (or anything else) It's happens naturally from weight/momentum of the golf club. There are 2 bases for the power : body domination and/or arms domination swing. Generally It's one swing ( it's hard to learn one swing )! However some golfers use 2 different swings for driver/irons. For example Tiger woods : 1 plane for driver and 2 planes for irons. Regards,
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Note: This thread is 3910 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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