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Driver shaft length


jacob1
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Titleist staffers:

Rory: MB's

Stricker: AP2's

Scott: MB's

Watney: AP2's

Simpson: 680's

Haas: CB's

Tae Kim: MB's

Fowler: MB's

Karlsson: MB's

Dufner: AP2's

Johnson: AP2's

Ogilvy: MB's

Van Pelt: CB/MB's

So.... Just at the ones I looked at its a 60/40 split.

:callaway: BB Alpha 815 DBD 10.5* Rogue Silver 60 :callaway: x2hot 3deep 14.5* (TBD) :tmade: RSI UDI 20* RIP Tour 90 :bridgestone: J40CB 4-PW Steelfiber i95 :vokey: SM4 50* KBS Tour V :vokey: SM5 54* KBS 610 :vokey: SM5 58* KBS HI-REV 2.0 MannKrafted Handmade Custom

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  • 8 months later...

My current shaft is 46.5 inches. But at the same time, I am 6'4", and tried a lot of shafts before I found the perfect one for me and my driver head (Ping Rapture). The original 909d was horrible. I had a very hard time to get a ball out past 220 yards.

In the Ogio Kingpin bag:

Titleist 913 D2 9.5* w/ UST Mamiya ATTAS 3 80 w/ Harrison Shotmaker & Billy Bobs afternarket Hosel Adaptor (get this if you don't have it for your 913)
Wilson Staff Ci-11 4-GW (4I is out of the bag for a hybrid, PW and up were replaced by Edel Wedges)
TaylorMade RBZ 5 & 3 Fairway Woods

Cobra Baffler T-Rail 3 & 4 Hybrids

Edel Forged 48, 52, 56, 60, and 64* wedges (different wedges for different courses)

Seemore Si-4 Black Nickel Putter

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I'm short (5'6") but didn't shorten the shaft on my Nickent Evolver.  I have three different shafts from 44.5 to 45.5" and for some reason I make much more consistent contact on the sweet spot on the driver than I do with the longer irons in my bag.  Go figure.

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I have a 910 D3 9.5* (adjusted to 10.25*) with a 45" stiff Ahina shaft, and I also have a Razr Fit 10.5* with a x-stiff 45" Kaili shaft.  The Razr Fit has a considerably tighter dispersion than the D3 and so far I have not noticed much distance loss.  (It feels and sounds like it's shorter than the D3, but I can't prove it yet)

The problem is that I don't know if the difference is more attributable to the clubhead, the shaft type, or the shaft stiffness.  (If I knew it was the shaft, I'd get a matching one for the D3 and try it out)

To tie into the OP's question, if I just tried a shorter shaft in the D3 to go straighter, distance would probably come down (all else being equal) so I don't think that is necessarily the answer.

EDIT: And for the record, I am 6'-3".

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Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I cut my Cally Octane Tour to 45" and still grip down. When I walk into a store and pick up some of those 46.5s they just seem too long. Are we going working towards every driver being a "Killer Bee" and we can all be Rocky Thompson?

Cobra LTDx 10.5* | Big Tour 15.5*| Rad Tour 18.5*  | Titleist U500 4-23* | T100 5-P | Vokey SM7 50/8* F, 54/10* S, SM8 58/10* S | Scotty Cameron Squareback No. 1 | Vice Pro Plus  

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I played a standard 43" driver for 20+ years until last summer.  Bought the 910D at stock 45" and it felt too long.  Played with it for a month gripped down 1-2 inches and liked it--so I cut an inch off the butt.  I love it (and I still grip it down an a half inch to an inch most of the time).  I actually hit it longer than when it was 45" because I'm in the sweet spot more often and it doesn't feel as awkward as when I was gripping down 2 inches.

Kevin

Titleist 910 D3 9.5* with ahina 72 X flex
Titleist 910F 13.5* with ahina 72 X flex
Adams Idea A12 Pro hybrid 18*; 23* with RIP S flex
Titleist 712 AP2 4-9 iron with KBS C-Taper, S+ flex
Titleist Vokey SM wedges 48*, 52*, 58*
Odyssey White Hot 2-ball mallet, center shaft, 34"

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  • 5 months later...

I've used a Callaway FT-5 driver for the last 5 years, and had it cut down to 43" before I left the store.  The golf pro tried to talk me out of it when I asked to shave it down by 2", but in hindsight, it was the best decision I could have made because it allowed me to gain confidence with the big stick.  I still averaged between 250 - 265 off the tee, but my drives were always fairly straight.  The only ego crushing problem is that my golfing buddies consistently out distanced me.

I purchased a RAZR Fit over the weekend, and I'm in panic mode because it's 45.5" long (a full 2.5" longer than my former baby).  Although I did fairly well on the launch monitor, I won't know how accurate I am until I can get out there...nail biting time.

If logic prevails, I'll be cutting it down in the spring because I do value accuracy over length (ego check at the door).

Driver: Callaway RAZR Fit - 9.5* Stiff

Woods: TaylorMade R11S - 3W Stiff, TaylorMade R11 Ti - 5W Stiff

Irons: Callaway X-12 - 3-PW Uniflex

Wedges: TaylorMade Rocketballz 50* AW - Cleveland 588 RTG 56* SW

Putter: Odyssey Sabertooth 2

 

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Tests on launch monitors and Iron Byron have shown that for every inch of length you remove, you lose 7 yards of distance. Small trade-off. To not hit it into the woods. It's worth the trim
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Originally Posted by Pat007

Tests on launch monitors and Iron Byron have shown that for every inch of length you remove, you lose 7 yards of distance. Small trade-off. To not hit it into the woods. It's worth the trim


That's assuming you hit the ball on the sweet spot as the length goes up, something not many of us hackers can do.  My current driver is 45.5" and I hit a 44" driver today further because I was making more consistent contact and was more confident swinging harder.

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  • 1 month later...
I want to reshaft my driver but go shorter to increase accuracy. Everything ive heard or read suggests shorter is better, so i thought id give it a try. I currently game a 46.5" wilson dxi 10.5, with an S flex pro launch red and midsize golf pride new decade grip. I'm getting the bimatrix tour prototype shaft and I want to play it at 44.5" but an concerned about the sw change. Can I maintain swing weight (or lessen impact on feel) by adding 10g tip weight and switching to the standard GP grip which is about 10g lighter?
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I want to reshaft my driver but go shorter to increase accuracy. Everything ive heard or read suggests shorter is better, so i thought id give it a try. I currently game a 46.5" wilson dxi 10.5, with an S flex pro launch red and midsize golf pride new decade grip. I'm getting the bimatrix tour prototype shaft and I want to play it at 44.5" but an concerned about the sw change. Can I maintain swing weight (or lessen impact on feel) by adding 10g tip weight and switching to the standard GP grip which is about 10g lighter?

PS I'm trying to avoid the lead tape solution if possible...

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Am the same h'cap as the OP.  Interestingly for me I found my R11 to be way more accurate than my RBZ, but the RBZ 30 yards longer than my R11.  Solution was simply to put the R11 shaft in the RBZ. Result was near RBZ distance with R11 accuracy - the R11 shaft is slightly shorter.  However, best results for me come from the 910 D2, which has an even shorter shaft but delivers length and accuracy.  Yes, I know this may be comparing apples with oranges but that's what I've found.

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Just for the heck of it I'm gonna pull the lead tape off my 44 inch Superfast and see how that goes compared to my standard 45.75 G15. That is once it warms up a bit!

:tmade: SLDRs 14* driver, 17* fairway, 19* and 22* hybrids | :odyssey: Versa White #1 putter

:nike: XR Pro 24*, 27*, 31*, 35.5*, 40*, 45*, 50* irons | :vokey: SM4 54*, 58* wedges

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Originally Posted by Kujan

Just for the heck of it I'm gonna pull the lead tape off my 44 inch Superfast and see how that goes compared to my standard 45.75 G15. That is once it warms up a bit!


I've tried to play my 44" G-20 without the lead tape, and the results weren't good.  I didn't think at my level it would make a big difference, but it did.

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I've tried to play my 44" G-20 without the lead tape, and the results weren't good.  I didn't think at my level it would make a big difference, but it did.

I was not happy with the 44 inch Superfast with the tape so I'll try it without. I doubt it will outperform the 45.75 G15.

:tmade: SLDRs 14* driver, 17* fairway, 19* and 22* hybrids | :odyssey: Versa White #1 putter

:nike: XR Pro 24*, 27*, 31*, 35.5*, 40*, 45*, 50* irons | :vokey: SM4 54*, 58* wedges

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I was not happy with the 44 inch Superfast with the tape so I'll try it without. I doubt it will outperform the 45.75 G15.

Hoo had a devil of a time getting that glue off!

:tmade: SLDRs 14* driver, 17* fairway, 19* and 22* hybrids | :odyssey: Versa White #1 putter

:nike: XR Pro 24*, 27*, 31*, 35.5*, 40*, 45*, 50* irons | :vokey: SM4 54*, 58* wedges

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My stock Nike was 45.75, so when I built my new driver I went with 45.5. So far it's been a peach. All of my clubs are actually extended 1 inch because I am 6'5", so in general I am comfortable with a longer shaft though.
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  • 5 months later...

I just bought a Calloway optiforce 460cc driver, after having played with a Calloway FTi for the last probably 7 years.

After playing a couple of rounds, the optiforce is 25-30 yards further, but the problem is fairway shots are few and far between. I'm popping it up, slicing, and hooking. 1 out of 10 are straight and true.

The optiforce is touted as being the lightest driver Calloway has ever produced. The shaft is like 46 grams in weight. I definitely feel like my swing speed has increased dramatically, and Calloway claims a 23% increase through aerodynamics.

So, today, I had the shaft cut down from 46" to 44.5" to see if I can control it better. Of course now it feels even lighter.

I hope I didn't make a mistake. I'm playing tomorrow and will find out I guess.

My old FTi was also 46", but I think the heavier weight slowed me down enough to control it, creating a loss of distance.

Anyone have any thoughts negative or positive on my ramblings or theory?

My swing is now pretty fast with this lightweight. I'm 5' 8" and 67 yrs old. Need all the advantage I can get. HA!

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Note: This thread is 3913 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Taking your dispersion and distance in consideration I analyzed the 4 posible ways to play the hole, or at least the ones that were listed here. I took the brown grass on the left as fescue were you need to punch out sideways to the fairway and rigth of the car path to be fescue too.  Driver "going for the green"  You have to aim more rigth, to the bunker in order to center your shotzone in between the fescue.  Wood of 240 over the bunkers I already like this one more for you. More room to land between the fescue. Balls in the fescue 11% down from 30% with driver. Improve of score from 4.55 to 4.40. 4 iron 210 yards besides the bunkers.    Also a wide area and your shot zone is better than previous ones. This makes almost the fescue dissapear. You really need to hit a bad one (sometimes shit happens). Because of that and only having 120 yards in this is the best choice so far. Down to 4.32 from 4.40. Finally the 6 Iron 180 yards to avoid all trouble.    Wide area an narrow dispersion for almost been in the fairway all the time. Similar than the previous one but 25 yards farther for the hole to avoid been in the bunkers. Average remains the same, 4.33 to 4.32.  Conclusion is easy. Either your 4iron or 6 iron of the tee are equaly good for you. Glad that you made par!
    • Wish I could have spent 5 minutes in the middle of the morning round to hit some balls at the range. Just did much more of right side through with keeping the shoulders feeling level (not dipping), and I was flushing them. Lol. Maybe too much focus on hands stuff while playing.
    • Last year I made an excel that can easily measure with my own SG data the average score for each club of the tee. Even the difference in score if you aim more left or right with the same club. I like it because it can be tweaked to account for different kind of rough, trees, hazards, greens etc.     As an example, On Par 5's that you have fescue on both sides were you can count them as a water hazard (penalty or punch out sideways), unless 3 wood or hybrid lands in a wider area between the fescue you should always hit driver. With a shorter club you are going to hit a couple less balls in the fescue than driver but you are not going to offset the fact that 100% of the shots are going to be played 30 or more yards longer. Here is a 560 par 5. Driver distance 280 yards total, 3 wood 250, hybrid 220. Distance between fescue is 30 yards (pretty tight). Dispersion for Driver is 62 yards. 56 for 3 wood and 49 for hybrid. Aiming of course at the middle of the fairway (20 yards wide) with driver you are going to hit 34% of balls on the fescue (17% left/17% right). 48% to the fairway and the rest to the rough.  The average score is going to be around 5.14. Looking at the result with 3 wood and hybrid you are going to hit less balls in the fescue but because of having longer 2nd shots you are going to score slightly worst. 5.17 and 5.25 respectively.    Things changes when the fescue is taller and you are probably going to loose the ball so changing the penalty of hitting there playing a 3 wood or hybrid gives a better score in the hole.  Off course 30 yards between penalty hazards is way to small. You normally have 60 or more, in that cases the score is going to be more close to 5 and been the Driver the weapon of choice.  The point is to see that no matter how tight the hole is, depending on the hole sometimes Driver is the play and sometimes 6 irons is the play. Is easy to see that on easy holes, but holes like this:  you need to crunch the numbers to find the best strategy.     
    • Very much so. I think the intimidation factor that a lot of people feel playing against someone who's actually very good is significant. I know that Winged Foot pride themselves on the strength of the club. I think they have something like 40-50 players who are plus something. Club championships there are pretty competitive. Can't imagine Oakmont isn't similar. The more I think about this, the more likely it seems that this club is legit. Winning also breeds confidence and I'm sure the other clubs when they play this one are expecting to lose - that can easily become a self-fulfilling prophecy.
    • Ah ok I misunderstood. But you did bring to light an oversight on my part.
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