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Posted

Alright guys,

I am new to this site and figured I would start off with one of my issues, I am a 16 year old golfer with about a 103 mph swing and am currently playing last years Titleist AP1's with shafts that my local pro fit me to, However I want to work the ball more, but am questioning making the immediate switch to blades, What do you guys have that you like for work ablility?

Thanks,

maineswinga


Posted

I only like my clubs "wokability" some of the time.

Player's blades would work left and right easily - probably too much so! Without any forgiveness, you might find yourself admiring them for their look and not for the scores you would be writing down through the summer.

Titleist 910D2 10.5* Stiff / Taylormade 3 Wood - Superfast 2.0 15*  3 Superfast 2.0 Rescue 18* Stiff Shafts


Posted
Try a forged cavity-back. (Well, guess it doesn't have to be forged, but most in that category are.) Something like the Titleist CB.

In my bag:

Driver: Titleist TSi3 | 15º 3-Wood: Ping G410 | 17º 2-Hybrid: Ping G410 | 19º 3-Iron: TaylorMade GAPR Lo |4-PW Irons: Nike VR Pro Combo | 54º SW, 60º LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 | Putter: Odyssey Toulon Las Vegas H7

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted


  maineswinga said:
Originally Posted by maineswinga

Alright guys,

I am new to this site and figured I would start off with one of my issues, I am a 16 year old golfer with about a 103 mph swing and am currently playing last years Titleist AP1's with shafts that my local pro fit me to, However I want to work the ball more, but am questioning making the immediate switch to blades, What do you guys have that you like for work ablility?

Thanks,

maineswinga

1.You don't need "blades"

2.You can "work" the ball with what you've got.

In the race of life, always back self-interest. At least you know it's trying.

 

 


Posted


  Shorty said:
Originally Posted by Shorty

1.You don't need "blades"

2.You can "work" the ball with what you've got.



This but you have to learn how to work the ball first...

Driver: i15, 3 wood: G10, Hybrid: Nickent 4dx, Irons: Ping s57, Wedges: Mizuno MPT 52, 56, 60, Putter: XG #9 

Posted

  Old1964 said:
Originally Posted by Old1964

I only like my clubs "wokability" some of the time.

Player's blades would work left and right easily - probably too much so! Without any forgiveness, you might find yourself admiring them for their look and not for the scores you would be writing down through the summer.


  jamo said:
Originally Posted by jamo

Try a forged cavity-back. (Well, guess it doesn't have to be forged, but most in that category are.) Something like the Titleist CB.



I agree with both of these statements. Blades are pretty useless, why punish yourself? Get something forged, in a cavity back, they will offer a little more forgiveness and still give you "low handicap cred." I play Callaway X-forged. Titleist and TaylorMade have some sweet looking irons too.


  Shorty said:
Originally Posted by Shorty

1.You don't need "blades"

2.You can "work" the ball with what you've got.

Its true, you can work the ball with anything really. A cut swing will produce a cut no matter if you have some Mizuno blades or TaylorMade burners in your hand.



Callaway RazrFit Extreme 9.5 w/Project X 6.5
Callaway XHot Pro 15* 3Wood w/Project X 6.5
Callaway XTour 18* 2h w/S300
Callaway XHot Pro 4/5 irons w/S300
Callaway XForged III 5-PW irons w/S300
Callaway Forged 52*/58* Wedges
Odyssey 7 Versa 90
Callaway Hex Black Tour


Posted
This might go against prevailing wisdom but I think the best way to take your game to the next level is by switching to blades. I finally got MP-32s two years ago and my iron play and overall game definitely improved. The reason I think is you stop having a crutch with the cavity backed irons. You obviously will be worse at first, but it will definitely make a better iron player. That's my two cents.

In My Bag:
9.5 degree Mizuno MX-500
15 degree Titliest 904F
Mizuno MP-32 3-PW
Cleveland CG10 Black Pearl 52 degree
Vokey Spin-Milled 56.14
Ping i5 Anser


Posted

If I had to guess, the way to take his game to the next level is by working on his wedge/short game and it really doesn't matter what type of irons he is playing. But I understand pretty much everyone gets the blade itch. Buy some used set on eBay for 300 bucks and have at it.

Originally Posted by thehillgolfer

This might go against prevailing wisdom but I think the best way to take your game to the next level is by switching to blades. I finally got MP-32s two years ago and my iron play and overall game definitely improved. The reason I think is you stop having a crutch with the cavity backed irons. You obviously will be worse at first, but it will definitely make a better iron player. That's my two cents.




Posted


Originally Posted by thehillgolfer

This might go against prevailing wisdom but I think the best way to take your game to the next level is by switching to blades. I finally got MP-32s two years ago and my iron play and overall game definitely improved. The reason I think is you stop having a crutch with the cavity backed irons. You obviously will be worse at first, but it will definitely make a better iron player. That's my two cents.


Blades are superior.

As feedback and a teaching tool there is no other.

It will force your swing to be good.

Robert Something


Posted


Originally Posted by soon_tourpro

Blades are superior.

As feedback and a teaching tool there is no other.

It will force your swing to be good.



Or it will cause you to quit the game, or not have as much enjoyment when you play.  Who wants to get beat up for no reason but to be able to say "I play blades".  You can work a forged cavity back plenty.  I see no advantage over playing a blade beyond the look of them as compared to a nice player's cavity back.


Posted

Nike got it right with their mixed set strategy.  Blades for short irons where feel is more important and CB's for long irons.

Some blades are easier to hit then others. Just stay away from old clubs with a long hostel and sharp edge.  If you can hit a Cleveland/Titelist/Mizzy wedge  you can hit a 9 iron.

Start with adding the 9 and 8 irons and take it from there.

Avoid older graphite shafts - graphite shaft technology has advanced far more the blade heads have. Wilson Sam Snead Blue Ridges on e-bay are cheaper then it cost to re-grip.

I bounce back and forth between Ap1's and 1980's blades, usually carrying a mixed bag. Two sets of blades cost me the same as one Ap1!

"Quick Dorthy....the oil can!"


Note: This thread is 4842 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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