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Posted

Have you ever had a name brand driver and just could not hit it?  Then you purchase a knockoff or component driver and hit it pretty darn good and wonder what the heck is going on?

I went to golf shop, hit a number of drivers, paid the fee for the fitting.  Found one I hit pretty good, according to the monitor in the place.  Got out to the range and hit it somewhat good, then play 4 rounds and absolutely cannot hit the thing to save my neck.  I borrow a playing buddies component driver, virtually the same shaft, same loft, same weight, and I hit it pretty straight and much more consistently.

Questions:

1.  Are the monitors in places like Dick's, Nevada Bob's. etc. accurate or do they show less extreme results than actual?

2.  Are these monitors set up to sell you clubs and not really give you a proper fitting?

Roy


Posted

Hopefully WUTiger will chime in.

I don't know if it is done anymore, but stores once let you take demos to the range or course, to confirm the setup.

I have used a few no name clubs and back in the day before the manufacturers were as high tech, you would see no name clubs used by pros. If it works for you, it doesn't matter what the name is.

Don

In the bag:

Driver: PING 410 Plus 9 degrees, Alta CB55 S  Fairway: Callaway Rogue 3W PX Even Flow Blue 6.0; Hybrid: Titleist 818H1 21* PX Even Flow Blue 6.0;  Irons: Titleist 718 AP1 5-W2(53*) Shafts- TT AMT Red S300 ; Wedges Vokey SM8 56-10D Putter: Scotty Cameron 2016 Newport 2.5  Ball: Titleist AVX or 2021 ProV1

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Posted
Have you ever had a name brand driver and just could not hit it?  Then you purchase a knockoff or component driver and hit it pretty darn good and wonder what the heck is going on? ...

Questions:

1.  Are the monitors in places like Dick's, Nevada Bob's. etc. accurate or do they show less extreme results than actual?

First of all, don't confuse component clubs and knock-off clubs. Component clubheads are second-tier items used by some custom clubsmiths and do-it-yourself club makers. Golfdom has certain "open stock" clubheads, mature models that don't change much from year to year.

For example of components, check out the Hireko golf equipment site: http://www.hirekogolf.com/ Power Play and Acer are just two of the brands offered by Hireko. Examples of Power Play offerings:

  • Caiman X2 Raw Power irons ($9 heads, cut to $7): An SGI head awaiting for your ideal shaft.
  • Caiman X2 Tour Blade irons: A reported user-friendly Player's iron with a copper finish ($17 heads). Also has similar look to Raw Spin wedges. ($19 heads)
  • Caiman X2 Titanium driver ($47.50).

So, you could order some decent Hireko-assembled irons for less than $50 each, and a decent driver for about $110.

The component heads and shafts vary in quality. Ask the clubmaker for references on people who use his or her clubs.

Knockoffs, on the other hand, may be counterfeits. These are the "Ping" or "Callaway" clubs that just don't look right. The counterfeits often contain inferior metal, and are heavier in the head, often producing misses to the right. Golf Digest had an article last year comparing real and counterfeit clubs.  Counterfeits can be made with stolen plans in some third-world village, or else made by organized crime with profits from drug trade and prostitution.

Here's are two articles on golf anti-counterfeiting ops:

http://www.cybergolf.com/golf_news/task_force_continues_crackdown_on_chinese_golf_club_counterfeiters

http://www.cybergolf.com/golf_news/nearly_200_websites_shut_down_in_golf_anticounterfeiting_groups_latest_crackdown

  • Upvote 1

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
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Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Posted
For example of components, check out the Hireko golf equipment site: [URL=http://www.hirekogolf.com/]http://www.hirekogolf.com/[/URL] Power Play and Acer are just two of the brands offered by Hireko. Examples of Power Play offerings: [LIST] [*] Caiman X2 Raw Power irons ($9 heads, cut to $7): An SGI head awaiting for your ideal shaft.  [*] Caiman X2 Tour Blade irons: A reported user-friendly Player's iron with a copper finish ($17 heads). Also has similar look to Raw Spin wedges. ($19 heads) [*] Caiman X2 Titanium driver ($47.50). [/LIST] So, you could order some decent Hireko-assembled irons for less than $50 each, and a decent driver for about $110. The component heads and shafts vary in quality. Ask the clubmaker for references on people who use his or her clubs.

Oooh, some good looking irons on that site. Just when I thought I had my bag figured out, too. Well, I have been thinking of assembling a set of ladies' irons for someone. Should make one from each of a few brands so she can choose.

-- Michael | My swing! 

"You think you're Jim Furyk. That's why your phone is never charged." - message from my mother

Driver:  Titleist 915D2.  4-wood:  Titleist 917F2.  Titleist TS2 19 degree hybrid.  Another hybrid in here too.  Irons 5-U, Ping G400.  Wedges negotiable (currently 54 degree Cleveland, 58 degree Titleist) Edel putter. 

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Posted

I've owned and enjoyed "knockoff" or whatever you want to call them. They were TA 845 clones and they were excellent irons. The thing is today, with new clubs being introduced by the major manufactures every year, last year clubs get steeply discounted. I just recently bought a brand new set of Cobra Amp Cell irons for $270.00. I've already seen them for a bit less than that. Why anyone would buy a used set of Acer irons for the same money is beyond me.

cubdog

Ross (aka cubdog)


Posted

I've never seen used Acer irons for $270. You can buy a set of heads 4-PW for around $90 new. I dang near put together a set of Acer's last month but I got a deal on some new Tour Edge Exotics irons with KBS Tour shafts, $200 shipped. Still might pull the shafts and build a set of Acer XF Pro.

Dave :-)

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Posted

I rented a set of all graphite rocketbalz in orlando and I loved the feel.  When I started looking and reading I wondered if I really I liked having a 3 and 4 hybrid better than adding a wedge.  After much back and forth, I bought a set of +1 Tour Edge Iron Hybrid 3H, 4H, 5-P for $200 to see if I liked the basic setup.  I actually liked my Tour Edge a lot.  I was ready to ride'em out for awhile.  Then I rented another set of taylormade iron-hybrid all graphite iron sets at Haubourtown last week.  There was a difference

Dicks made it easy.  They gave 25% last weekend,  I did it.  Got the Rocketbalz, just like the all graphite regular flex set I used in orlando.

25% seemed like a pretty good deal.  $516 incl tax


Posted

I've never seen used Acer irons for $270. You can buy a set of heads 4-PW for around $90 new. I dang near put together a set of Acer's last month but I got a deal on some new Tour Edge Exotics irons with KBS Tour shafts, $200 shipped. Still might pull the shafts and build a set of Acer XF Pro.


Check the link WUTiger provided.

cubdog

Ross (aka cubdog)


Posted
Hireko says some of those heads like the Acer are titanium. Ti is hard to work with...I cant imagine going to all that trouble for a poorly designed head.

Tom R.

TM R1 on a USTv2, TM 3wHL on USTv2, TM Rescue 11 in 17,TM udi #3, Rocketbladez tour kbs reg, Mack Daddy 50.10,54.14,60.14, Cleveland putter


Posted
Hireko says some of those heads like the Acer are titanium. Ti is hard to work with...I cant imagine going to all that trouble for a poorly designed head.

WTF are you talking about??? What's hard to work with? No, I did not read through this.

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-Landon


Posted
From what I have brushed across about creating things from titanium, the material is not nearly as easy to work with as other metal. In fact, it seems like a pita, reading the white papers that are out there, compared to carbon steel and less expensive metals. If I was gonna counterfeit, I wouldnt use the good stuff.

Tom R.

TM R1 on a USTv2, TM 3wHL on USTv2, TM Rescue 11 in 17,TM udi #3, Rocketbladez tour kbs reg, Mack Daddy 50.10,54.14,60.14, Cleveland putter


Posted
Mmmmmm pita... Acer isn't counterfeit so weird prevous post about them. Either way considering all the Ti crap out there it can't be too tough to cast. Was a time, the Ti iron graveyard is massive, it was a very popular product.

Dave :-)

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Posted

In 1991, I bought a set of Acer irons. Was at the range one day, after I'd had them for about 1 month, and a week, was hitting my 8i, and the head flew down range. So I'm kinda iffy re: non brand names.

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Posted
The refrences to knock offs being inferior metal in the 3rd post is what illicited my comment about Ti being more difficult to deal with and posing the "why would you bother", faking a exact duplicate of the real thing. You copy diamonds with cubic zirconia not diamonds. Enough already.

Tom R.

TM R1 on a USTv2, TM 3wHL on USTv2, TM Rescue 11 in 17,TM udi #3, Rocketbladez tour kbs reg, Mack Daddy 50.10,54.14,60.14, Cleveland putter


Posted
In 1991, I bought a set of Acer irons. Was at the range one day, after I'd had them for about 1 month, and a week, was hitting my 8i, and the head flew down range. So I'm kinda iffy re: non brand names.

Thats just glue though. I bought three acer wedges to stick on some pullout cleveland shafts, and you could tell they were roghly made and finished. I never even hit them. I am not buying any more.

Tom R.

TM R1 on a USTv2, TM 3wHL on USTv2, TM Rescue 11 in 17,TM udi #3, Rocketbladez tour kbs reg, Mack Daddy 50.10,54.14,60.14, Cleveland putter


Posted

I bought a sweet white TM RocketBallz 3W from a golf shop (in china).  Frankly, by looks only i can not find any fault. But i saved a ton o'cash. First week, at the range, the weight button on the bottom flew out, lost.  The 3rd week the cavity slot on the bottom, just behind the face, split severely. Before the month was out, rust all over the face.  What a dope.


Posted

Thats just glue though. I bought three acer wedges to stick on some pullout cleveland shafts, and you could tell they were roghly made and finished. I never even hit them. I am not buying any more.

True, but..I've never had a brand name club do that... ;-)

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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