I need a new driver

[Pretzel]

Beautiful. I love dogs. How big is he / she ?

She's actually shorter than she's supposed to be. She's a rescue dog from a bad breeding operation where the owner thought they wouldn't poop if he didn't feed them. She does, however, weigh about average so she's pretty overweight for her size. I'd say she's between 90-100 pounds and only around 24-28 inches tall or so (just short enough you have to bend over a little to pet her). I have heard though that the males get a whole lot bigger than the females though.

It's funny to watch her walk, because she actually waddles. It's a combination of her vigorous tail wagging throwing her rear end around and her larger than normal girth, but it's pretty humorous at least to me.

[vangator]

Bedford has the biggest paws I've ever seen on a dog. He walks funny too. His front legs look like a prancing stallion when he walks.

[inthecup]

I think the G25 is a good choice.  Long and forgiving.  If you had a 15 year old driver you might be in for a pleasant surprise.

[vangator]

I think the G25 is a good choice.  Long and forgiving.  If you had a 15 year old driver you might be in for a pleasant surprise.

I was thinking the same thing too. Who couldn't use a little extra length? :-P I'm just waiting for a price break. The epoxy is still not setup in the driver I fixed. It's pretty hard but not like a rock. I may have to abort it and do it again.

[Pretzel]

The G25 should be discounted in most golf shops by now. With the release of the G30 clubs PING sent out a new Blue and Orange list, which outlines which clubs can and can't be discounted (as well as by how much). I know the Golfsmiths around me have them all on sale for $100 off.

I got my G10 right when the G15's came out for a great price with the same strategy. It was $200 with a solid aftermarket shaft in it.

[nickel_aTm]

If you like the 580 I'd recommend taking a look at the SLDR S, G30, and Big Bertha

@vangator To opine on one of the suggested options, I picked up an SLDR S a few months back, which replaced my Ping G20.  I picked up some distance (probably 10-15 yards on average).  I don't hit it very far and normally don't get too crooked. I knew the SLDR was designed to launch higher with less spin.  Less spin also means less side spin.   I've noticed a little less hook or cut on bad swings.  Better distance + more fairways = happy camper.

Obviously, would go hit a couple options at a local retailer before pulling the trigger.

[Pretzel]

Obviously, would go hit a couple options at a local retailer before pulling the trigger.

This is far more important that most would think. I personally expected to gain both distance and accuracy with the SLDR driver when I went in for a driver fitting, seeing as how everyone says great things about it and even the #1 player on my team got one (he had been using a Cobra driver from 2001 because it worked the best).

I go in to test the clubs and find that I can't hit the SLDR at all. I'm all over the face of the club, missing the sweet spot, and can't find a consistent ballflight. By contrast the Titleist 913 driver, which I almost didn't test, turned out to be the best performer. This could have something to do with the stock shaft offerings (a Diamana Blue vs TM stock), but I couldn't hit a driver I thought would be great and hit a driver I wasn't even going to look at the best of all.

All that said, the difference of 5 yards (on average) was not worth the $300 to upgrade from my G10 in my opinion.

[vangator]

I've checked out all the golf mags for their ratings. The Ping G25 was at the top. Titleist is always up there. I recall the SLDR didn't fare as well. I think it looks a little hokie (sp)? I tried the TM R11 a few years ago and was flat out unimpressed. I've always liked Ping. With the adjustability of the driver, I think I should be able to make it work. My biggest unknown would be the shaft. The mags all rate the stock shaft as good. I think I'll bring a lunch to Golfsmith and try a few drivers. Probably in the market for a longer hybrid or 5 fairway wood too. There is an Edwin Watts in my area also that used to be pretty good about checking demo clubs out. Edwin Watts carries my green Volvik Vista iVs also. What's the going price on the Ping G25 these days?

[nickel_aTm]

I go in to test the clubs and find that I can't hit the SLDR at all. I'm all over the face of the club, missing the sweet spot, and can't find a consistent ballflight. By contrast the Titleist 913 driver, which I almost didn't test, turned out to be the best performer. This could have something to do with the stock shaft offerings (a Diamana Blue vs TM stock), but I couldn't hit a driver I thought would be great and hit a driver I wasn't even going to look at the best of all.

Exactly why we should hit 'em before buying.  Like you said, I'd be about 99% sure the shaft was the difference.  Guess I'm lucky the SLDR S's Fukijura "fits" me.

[Pretzel]

The current pricing is $299 at Golfsmith and Edwin Watts.

With the adjustability of the driver, I think I should be able to make it work. My biggest unknown would be the shaft. The mags all rate the stock shaft as good.

If you don't like any of the stock shafts, ask if you can test some aftermarket ones. I love the UST Proforce V2's that I put into my driver and hybrids, but they have been described by some as a bit boardy. This likely has to do with the fact that their flexes are a bit strong, specifically in the tip area, but I like them personally. I've heard good things about the Aldila NV shafts, and my favorite shaft is the Diamana Blue (if you end up with a Titleist driver you get it for the price of the driver, otherwise it's expensive even for a shaft pull).

[Lihu]

Bedford as a puppy is really cute. I just wish they could stay that size forever.

I guess the big paws means he's definitely not done growing, St. Bernard dogs could get double or bigger than his current weight!

Get a steel shafted driver, at least it won't break and costs $19 if it gets bent.

[vangator]

The current pricing is $299 at Golfsmith and Edwin Watts. If you don't like any of the stock shafts, ask if you can test some aftermarket ones. I love the UST Proforce V2's that I put into my driver and hybrids, but they have been described by some as a bit boardy. This likely has to do with the fact that their flexes are a bit strong, specifically in the tip area, but I like them personally. I've heard good things about the Aldila NV shafts, and my favorite shaft is the Diamana Blue (if you end up with a Titleist driver you get it for the price of the driver, otherwise it's expensive even for a shaft pull).

I checked today and they are $299 at Golfsmith. That's $50 off. I will try a few different shafts. I'm not sure these old bones will like a boardy shaft either. [quote name="Lihu" url="/t/77028/i-need-a-new-driver/18#post_1053889"]Bedford as a puppy is really cute. I just wish they could stay that size forever. I guess the big paws means he's definitely not done growing, St. Bernard dogs could get double or bigger than his current weight! Get a steel shafted driver, at least it won't break and costs $19 if it gets bent. :-$   [/quote] Bedford's dad was 180 and mom was 200. We feed him the best dog food, so I expect him to probably get that big too. We live next to a park. So he gets nice long daily walks. You may have something there with the steel shafts. I loved my original Big Bertha with the steel Memphis 10 shaft. I can't find it in my garage. I have a titanium shaft in one of my old drivers. Talk about a boardy shaft. Might as well be a pip. Graphite is here to stay.

[Lihu]

You may have something there with the steel shafts. I loved my original Big Bertha with the steel Memphis 10 shaft. I can't find it in my garage. I have a titanium shaft in one of my old drivers. Talk about a boardy shaft. Might as well be a pip. Graphite is here to stay.

Yes, graphite definitely gives you longer distances, but it takes a lot more money and effort to get fitted for the right shaft.

Steel has been pretty good for me, even though I am not that strong a golfer. I have done a decent amount of research everywhere on the internet, and found that reasonable answers indicate that the shot dispersion is much better with steel. There is less spin and it is easier to control. Several people have noted that they can "go after the ball" and not lose direction as much as with graphite. I have also found this to be the case. Even way off center hits deliver the ball straighter than with the graphite shafts that my clubs came with. I can really go after the ball on the course if I feel like it. Same experience as many other people using steel shafts.

For comparison, I have a fitted Cobra Bio driver with a PX6.0 shaft in it (I was fitted for this at Golfsmith with an optical launch monitor). This club is even an inch and a half shorter than either of my steel shafted drivers, and goes farther than my steel drivers (took a while to get used to the swing timing because the cadence is much faster than with my steel shafted drivers). However, it tends to have a lot more spin and is much less forgiving if my swing timing is just a little bit off. If I hit a little down (AoA) the ball balloons up and hits way short. If I pull from outside in a little bit it slices about 10 yards, and more outside means more slice. I need to make sure I try to use the exact same swing and exact same timing to use it effectively.

If I find the right combination of graphite and head, I'm sure it will go farther and just as straight as steel, but my swing is not yet mature enough to make it worth while to get this ultimate club. Maybe at the end of the year?

In the meantime, steel works for me and gives me nice straight balls for practically no cost (<$30 for a fully installed shaft and premium corded grip). I did this to three of my drivers Ping G10-12 degree, G15-10.5 and TM-SF-9.0 with X100 shafts. The G10 has an X200. What I have not explored is using S300 or R300 shafts, but my ball flight is already pretty high with all three of these clubs and the G10 needed the stiffer shaft to keep it from "ballooning". Note that my normal swing speed is not that high, but I had all three clubs cut for 46". So, the longer cut X100 is probably equivalent to an S300 or even S400/R300.

[Seniorhacker]

I was just laughing when the titanium shaft was mentioned, they are stiff feeling. I had one installed in a driver years ago, that driver, if not pulled out by a diver, resides in a large pond beside a par 4 tee in Myrtle Beach.

[vangator]

So, you had a steel shafts installed in your new drivers. I haven't seen a steel shaft in a driver in many years. The torque on steel is much better, but the whip isn't. But the name of the game is accuracy in my book.

[Mr. Desmond]

So, you had a steel shafts installed in your new drivers. I haven't seen a steel shaft in a driver in many years. The torque on steel is much better, but the whip isn't. But the name of the game is accuracy in my book.

If you're not getting accuracy with graphite, it's not the fault of the shaft.

It's you, the Indian, not the arrow.

You've either selected the incorrect graphite shaft or you've got work to do on your swing.

Torque is overrated.

UST has studied the effects of torque - one reason they had a line of shafts that were similar but with different torque. They found that many players had better dispersion with higher torque because they were not trying so hard... so the torque argument doesn't wash. You can find a graphite shaft with less torque ... but you may not improve your accuracy.

[joekelly]

Watch crystal about $25.  Use the 3W.

[Lihu]

So, you had a steel shafts installed in your new drivers. I haven't seen a steel shaft in a driver in many years. The torque on steel is much better, but the whip isn't. But the name of the game is accuracy in my book.

This might be the reason X100 seems to work for me. Even the X100 is just starting to get a little bit whippy at 46". The reason is because of the added weight of the shaft. If the steel were only 48 grams with the same other physical properties, the shaft would be far too stiff for me.

If you're not getting accuracy with graphite, it's not the fault of the shaft.

It's you, the Indian, not the arrow.

You've either selected the incorrect graphite shaft or you've got work to do on your swing.

Torque is overrated.

UST has studied the effects of torque - one reason they had a line of shafts that were similar but with different torque. They found that many players had better dispersion with higher torque because they were not trying so hard... so the torque argument doesn't wash. You can find a graphite shaft with less torque ... but you may not improve your accuracy.

I think this might be the main reason I would advise beginners to use steel shafts, then they can stick with one setup until they get their swings grooved. Steel is way more forgiving and less spinning.