loft separation in matched set of woods

[Hacker James]

I know there would be no set answer, but am interested in what lofts are "normally" found in a new set of clubs. For example, lets say the driver has 12 degrees loft , what would one expect to see in a 3 wood?   In the past, I considered a good rule of thumb would be 3 degree difference between the two, but now with the trend towards higher lofts, I am not sure what it would be.  If one a High Loft driver of 13.5 degrees, it seems to me that a 3 wood of 16.5 would be excessive. 

[1badbadger]

Since there is no industry standard for lofts, it can be a little different from one company to the next, but most company's fairway woods are pretty close.  Honestly, whether a player uses an 8.5* driver or a 12* driver, if they carry a 3 wood it's going to be right around 15*.  Most strong 3 woods (3+) are around 13-13.5*.  

(A side note to show how confusing it can be...in the '90s these were the Callaway Steelhead fairway woods lofts:  3+ = 13*, 3 wood = 15.5*, 4 wood = 17*, 4+ = 15*, 5 wood = 19*.  If you'll notice, the strong 4 wood had less loft than the 3 wood!)

When you start getting into the modern high-lofted drivers like you mentioned, it may make more sense to go to a 4 wood, which is usually around 16-16.5*, then maybe a 7 wood or something around 19*.

The gap in lofts isn't as important as your gaps in distance...how far you hit each one is what's important at the end of the day.

[saevel25]

2 minutes ago, 1badbadger said:

Since there is no industry standard for lofts, it can be a little different from one company to the next, but most company's fairway woods are pretty close.  

I would say fairway woods and drivers are the most consistent. Hybrids can be when you compare a 2 hybrid or a 3 hybrid. 

1 hour ago, Hacker James said:

For example, lets say the driver has 12 degrees loft , what would one expect to see in a 3 wood?  

15 degrees would probably be the upper limit of most 3-woods. Then you get a 5-wood round 18 degrees, and a 7 wood near 21 degrees. 

I would say that the gap between 3-wood and driver is not important. I've seen golfers ditch a 3-wood all together and be fine. I would say a 15 degree would work just fine. 

Don't worry about lofts. Just get fitted for a driver then figure out how a 3-wood plays into your set. Maybe you dump it for a 7-wood instead. 

[WUTiger]

2 hours ago, 1badbadger said:

The gap in lofts isn't as important as your gaps in distance...how far you hit each one is what's important at the end of the day.

Choosing your first (base) fairway wood depends in part on what you can hit reliably. I have been working 4W + 7W going on five years now. Others go with 3W + 5W.

Some players with more clubhead speed go with a 3W + 3H, or 3W + 2H + 4H.

If you're going primarily with woods as bridge clubs, check both loft and differing shaft lengths. For Callaway:

RazorHawks had 3W = 15* / 43" // 5W / 18* / 42.25" // 7W = 21* / 41.5" // RazrFit had 3W and 5W with same specs.

The XR FWs have a 3, 4, 5, 7, 9, 11Ws. The shaft lengths are about a half-inch apart, with loft gaps of only 2*. This suggests you would skip every other FW in the model for your bag.

You have to look at the total specs for a model of FW to tell what mix you might want for your case.

[Hacker James]

@WUTiger interesting. I am going to have to put more thought into this. I have been swapping around 3W, 4W, and mixing with 3H, 4H. I find I have trouble with the 3W which is an older Big Bertha with Gem 55 shaft so I put in wooden Hogan 4W which works pretty well most of the time, (but not always.)

 I had such good luck  with the new Tour Edge Hot Launch2 Offset driver, I am considering getting the same in a 3W, but before doing so, I may just leave out the 3W altogether and see how I get along with just three hybrids and driver. I say three hybrids, as one is a 3H, and both the other 2 are labeled 4H, although one of the 4H performs more like a 5H.

 This is probably one of the reasons for the post in the first place.

The driver has 13.5 deg loft and the 3W  I am considering from Tour Edge Hot Launch 2 is 15.5 degrees. I hesitate, because I get pretty much of the same distance with 4H as I did with 4W and am not sure if a new 3W would really help much. As for gaps, most troublesome is 180-200 yards. Anything less than 145, my irons do okay. 

[SavvySwede]

I think 3* is far too little a gap in most situations. When I play two woods in the bag I will use a 13* 3 wood and a 19* 5 wood. Distance control from that far out is not a huge consideration, just need to be somewhere around the green in two shots on those par 5s. Usually I drop the 5 wood and my 21* hybrid is the next longest club to the 3 wood.

[WUTiger]

With my Tour Edge XRails, I have a 16.5* 4W with a 42.5" shaft, and a 21* 7W with a 41.5" shaft. This makes for about 20 yds. difference between clubs. My Cobra FlyZ 4H (22*) comes in maybe 10 yds. shorter, but has a bit lower launch (good into wind).

[1badbadger]

1 hour ago, SavvySwede said:

I think 3* is far too little a gap in most situations. When I play two woods in the bag I will use a 13* 3 wood and a 19* 5 wood. Distance control from that far out is not a huge consideration, just need to be somewhere around the green in two shots on those par 5s. Usually I drop the 5 wood and my 21* hybrid is the next longest club to the 3 wood.

 

13 minutes ago, WUTiger said:

With my Tour Edge XRails, I have a 16.5* 4W with a 42.5" shaft, and a 21* 7W with a 41.5" shaft. This makes for about 20 yds. difference between clubs. My Cobra FlyZ 4H (22*) comes in maybe 10 yds. shorter, but has a bit lower launch (good into wind).

This is a great example of how different players configure their set depending on their needs.  These are very different set-ups, but the one thing they have in common is the decision on which clubs to play was well thought out and done with a purpose.

One thing that might help is to really think about how each club will be used.  If you look at each of these clubs having a specific job, it can help narrow down what to look for.  For example, assuming your driver is good-to-go, the next club will fill what role?  Do you play a tight course where distance isn't as important as being straight and you like to hit a fairway wood off the tee, and rarely use it off the fairway?  Then you might go with a little stronger 3 wood, like a 13.5 or 14* that will give you a little more distance but still be straight.  However, if you almost never hit a fairway wood off the tee, but need something off the fairway to reach long par 4s and to use on par 5s, something with a little more loft that will be easier to hit off tight lies like a 15, 16 or 17* might be a good choice.  Once you have determined what that club's job is and the best specs, then move to the next one and do the same thing.  Think about how it will be used and what it will be needed for, and of course how far it needs to go.  Like one of the other guys mentioned, take all the specs into consideration, but if the lofts aren't spaced perfectly it's ok if your distances are appropriately spaced.  If there is too much gap between 2 clubs, or 2 clubs go almost the same distance, then an adjustment needs to be made. 

[alleztom]

I go driver - 4W (16.5*) 3H (19*) 4H (22*).

This gives me relatively good gapping, 4W goes 220-230, 3H 205-215, 4H goes 190-200. I think shaft length on the 4W (3W shaft) and 3H means that a 2.5* gap is fine.

[onthehunt526]

45 minutes ago, alleztom said:

I go driver - 4W (16.5*) 3H (19*) 4H (22*).

This gives me relatively good gapping, 4W goes 220-230, 3H 205-215, 4H goes 190-200. I think shaft length on the 4W (3W shaft) and 3H means that a 2.5* gap is fine.

I do the same. 

@Hacker James in my humble opinion, I believe you would be better served with the Hot Launch 2 offset 4-wood with 17.5° loft. In your situation playing the 13.5° Driver, the 4-wood will suit your gaps better.

I have a high swing speed (107 mph). I carry a Driver  (10° set at 10.5°), Four wood (16.5°), 19° Hybrid and then 22° hybrid or 4-iron. Although you could think of my set as a $2500 package set... LOL.

[Lagavulin62]

Something to think about is the difference of drivers with fairway woods. Since the clubs play so differently I never concerned myself with how clise or far the lofts are. I am playing with a 12 degree driver but my fairway wood is 13.5.  I don't consider that a concern because I hit my driver considerably further than my strong 3w of the tee. The 13.5 3w is the longest I can hit reliably off the grass soit has a place. To me the closeness of lofts of driver and 3 wood makes no diffetence because there is a significant yardage distance and the fact that each club plays so differently. 

Now as far as lofts between fairway woods I understand what you are saying. 

Edited February 7, 2017 by Lagavulin62

[Hacker James]

thanks to all for the replies. Lots of good insight there. Although at my age and ability, there is not much reason to invest in a complete set of better equipment and I have a sort of hodge podge assortment of "collectibles", it would also appear that little by little, one at a time, I am in fact migrating in that direction. I by no means have top of the line, nevertheless, the additions I have are not all that cheap either. I may stop by Golf Mart and actually see if I can hit the Tour Edge Hot Launch 2 in a 4 wood if they have it. I looked a little, and did not see any. They seemed to have mostly The Exotic lines, otherwise I can buy online should I decide I want to.

[Hacker James]

one additional question. In regards to adding a 4W or 5W, what would be the significance of having a stiffer flex in the fairway woods rather than in a driver?  My rationale is that for me, stiffer shafts seem to give me more control and solid hits. Some may be mental in that with the fairway woods I am not as apt to go at it so much, and therefore more control is achieved with less swing speed. 

[1badbadger]

If you feel a stiffer flex gives you more control, that leads to confidence which is a good thing.  In my experience though, I'd rather see a player err on the side of the shaft being a little too soft than a little too stiff.  There are a couple of reasons for this:

If it's a club that you are not going to go after as hard, and have a little less swing speed, a stiffer flex may not load properly which can lead to weak shots that go low and right.

The other reason is if the shaft is boarderline on too stiff, you have to put your best move on it every time. There is no margin for error.  A shaft that is slightly on the soft side is still going to be controllable when you're swinging well, but on those days when your swing is a little off, it will help you out more.

Another consideration is if a shaft is a little too soft and you're having issues, it's a lot easier to stiffen it up than to make a shaft that is too stiff a little weaker. 

I see where you're coming from, and it sounds good on paper, but in real-world situations not so much.  Your shafts don't have to be the same flex in your woods, but if anything I like the driver shaft to be the stiffer flex and the fairway woods to be a little softer in that case.