IndianaDundee

No that 12 volt compressor is not what you want. The pancake compressors will work well for this application. You can find them in pawn shops all day long and Harbor Freight has some low end compressors also that would work for this. You don't need the tool that Pure sales, a regular air nozzle with a barbed nipple will work just fine. Also you don't have to use Pure grips as I have put on Karma, Golf Pride, Super Stroke, and a few other no name grips using this method as well. I have found that it doesn't work well with Winn grips though. You also have the benefits of taking your grip back off to straighten it or to put another layer of tape or four on if you want to experiment with different grip sizes or tapering. Watch some You Tube videos before you try and use a piece of pipe or a cut off section of golf bag tube when pulling one off with air so you don't explode one and hurt yourself.

As others have mentioned the label on the shaft means little to nothing. Some companies will label a senior flex shaft as stiff flex so some poor fool can think he is stronger than the average person. You have to go with what feels right and gives you the most consistent results, regardless of the flex or name on label. Then learn to ignore the guy in your group that hits his PW 150 yards with a drop and stop shot into the green, and accept that you need a 5 iron shot that lands short and rolls up onto the green.

I know I am the oddball here because I don't carry irons. After I got injured I found that I was having trouble hitting my 19 and 17 woods consistently. So to cover the gap between my 49 degree wedge and my 15 wood I put together a 46 degree wedge and 42 degree wedge. So now I carry 5 wedges from 42 to 59 degree.

Here is a different thought. I carry a 2 wood. I can't hit my big headed driver off the fairway, and my 4 wood gets me around 230 yards. I won't lie to you; it isn't an easy club to hit, kinda like a 1 iron. But a well struck ball will carry out around 200 yards and on a dry level (or downgrade) fairway will roll out to 250. It is also a great punch tool as you just swing normal and the ball won't get more than 5 feet of the ground.

Have to play a little one-ups-man-ship on this one. Hit by a golf ball, Yes. Hit by your own golf ball, Yes. Knocked yourself out with your own golf ball while practicing...... Yes. Good luck topping this one. I was just learning how to play and was hitting my cousins clubs into a pasture at my house. I hit a 7 iron into a fence post 10 yards in front of me (with my dad watching) and it came right back at me. I had just enough time to start to dodge as it was heading dead center between my eyes, so I dunked to the left just enough to catch the ball right above the right eye socket. Next thing I know I am on my hands and knees looking at a puddle of blood in the grass. I still have the scar on my eyelid to prove it.

Interesting experiment, but I think my results would be the opposite. My chipping shots (bump and run) with a putting stroke, can get close (sometimes in the hole) but I find that many times my putter will do just as good of a job. If I have a fluffier lie than I trust my putter in, I tend to overswing, making a putting style chip run off the back of the green or a pitching swing fly past the hole and sometimes fly over the whole green. With a high lofted pitch or even flop shot my ball tends to land close to the pin but not have enough spin to stop there. Still putting but at least on the green as opposed to facing another chip sounds like a good trade off to me. I base my shot type on the lie of the ball. A fluffy uphill lie my lob wedge will go right under the ball and leave it in the rough where my PW will fly the green and die. But a downhill tight lie my lobber is the only way to get enough spin to stop. I am also curious if there is an optimal trajectory for more common chipping situations. But how can you call an 8 iron the right club since I have seen an 44 degree 8 iron and a 35 degree 8 iron. I own a 42 degree PW so if your 8 iron is from an old set my new PW has the same loft. On the other hand if your 8 iron that is ideal for chipping is of the newer 35 degree type, then I have an old 6 iron with a 36 degree loft that my leave you a few feet short.

I find that baseball and golf, do not compare the two. Not only are the balls on completely different trajectories, but the club is on a completely different plane and your body set up is totally different. Now if you can break the golf is baseball swing idea, then set your body up with a golf swing instead of a modified baseball swing, you will have something to work with. Once you achieve an actual golf swing, you can start adjusting you stance and grip to achieve different flight paths. You can close your stance to get a draw, open it for a fade, put the ball in the front for a high trajectory or in the back for penetrating flight. From there you can strike down on the ball for more spin with your irons, and up on the ball for driving. Adjust your grip for fat or thin shots, and learn to shift your weight depending on the lie. The real trick with golf is to know which shot to play at the right time to give you you right spin, on the right trajectory, to feed the ball at the hole. Now if you found that hard to read, then you might just have a chance to get a good golf swing and learn how to shape your shot to fit your situation.

Kinda an old thread here but I have a solution. At 100 yards I carry a 52 degree Sand Blaster wedge that at a full swing will carry 105 yards and depending on green slope and cut will back up 5 yards to 5 ft. At 80 yards my 59 degree wedge is my drop and spin back a few feet club. Now if I have a 90 yard shot where a bump and run will work I take a 15 wood at 1/2 swing, or if I need a fly and die I go with a 49 degree wedge at 3/4 swing. Same thinking about any shot between 100 and 40 yards. Under 40 I go to a flop if I need a fly and die, pitch if I need a bounce and stop, or chip if I need a bump and run. Inside of 150 yards I can go with a punch with a 9 wood to stay low or fly and die with a full shot. Your real answer is to dial in your distance with less than full shots, punch shots, pitch shots, chip shots, and knowing your green conditions. If you are inside 100 yards you need to know how the green feeds assuming you're accurate with your wedges to know if you need a drop and stop, bounce and stop, or bump and run, then pick the club and shot that matches your need.

A lot of this has been said (no video so just guessing, shaft might be wrong, timing gets off, gripping too tight, 250 and straight is great) but there are a few other things to look at. Is the 250 yards correct. Most ranges miss label yardage so you think you are hitting further. Even the courses in my area are guilty of this. One hole for example is labeled 330 yards on the card and I have drove that green. But my Swing by Swing app GPS says it is 287. I really got a hold of that ball to drive the green, but I certainly don't claim that I drive the ball 330. I saw someone mention starting the downswing with your right knee. I start my swing by pointing my left knee to the target. It is a small move but it gets my lower body moving forcing my hips to turn and helps my timing for swing out of my shoes Bubba Watson type swing.

I'm assuming that tool would work just fine since it is designed for that propose. I use a basic blow gun with a barbed nipple attachment to do mine. They sell them at any hardware store for $5-20. I also dip the first inch or so of the grip in mineral spirits to get it started easy. Without the mineral spirits you run the risk of the grip folding under, building pressure quickly and blowing a bubble in the grip that will not go away. I have used this method on Winn, Super Stroke, Karma, And Golf Pride. The Golf Pride MCC +4 is a half cord/ half soft rubber compound that I have done many times with the air compressor method with great success. I would also add that you can used the air compressor method to take off grips that were put on the traditional way. It depends on the condition of the grip and the type of tape used, but I have saved grips this way to use later. If you inject mineral spirits (grip tape solvent) in the butt of the grip, then slide a tube over the grip(to catch a blowout), and while wearing safety glasses, give it a blast of air the a twist, then a blast and twist the other way. Inject some more solvent and repeat until the grip comes off or explodes under pressure. If it explodes well that is what the tube was there for and you would have destroyed the grip cutting it off anyway so you only lost a few drops of mineral spirits and got an exciting little jump when it went off like a tiny rubber grenade.

Air is definitely the way to go. I regripped mine with 6 different tape layers, took them to the range and then decided what worked best. Back to the bench to blow them off rewrap them to the ideal fit and with only the cost of tape and time, dialed my perfect grip in less than a days work.

Just a think outside the box moment. Do you have a buddy that is a backyard mechanic? Air compressor and blow gun with a bench vice are pretty basic tools for anyone who does more than change their own oil. Mineral spirits and masking tape are as cheap as grip tape and solvent, and if you build it up too much or not enough it is just a quick blast of air, cut or put another wrap on, blow the same grip back on, with less cost or fuss. Since I switched to this method I have regripped 6 different clubs with different layers of tape, went to the driving range and hit balls till I found the ideal grip build. Then blow off all my grips, rewrap them all to spec, and put them all back on at only the cost of tape and time.

My game really improved when I went to a midsize Winn Excel and later Winn DSI. But I was really disappointed in their durability and I tried out some Karma Ultra light that never felt right. I then found GolfPride MCC plus 4 on Amazon for a deal and added a few more wraps of take under the lower hand to take out almost all of the taper. I probably should pick up some more of these next time I find a deal as they are both comfortable and secure in my hand, and so far seem pretty durable.

I think in order to truly understand the change of loft on your distance you must be comparing apples to apples. It can be easy to pick up a different driver in a different loft and blame the loft for the change in accuracy and distance when the more forgiving face, shorter shaft with less torque and lower kick point that is making the desired change. If you have an adjustable driver that you hit well then you can truly dial in the correct loft. Now with all that said, with a higher loft and a fast swing speed you lose little yardage, gain more backline, and reduce sidespin. All of these changes are small in the 4 degree range between a 8 degree and 12 degree driver. As my swing has changed over the years I went from a 10 degree driver to a 9 then a 9.5 and currently have a 12. Each time was a different brand, design, and shaft but the first three changes brought both more distance and accuracy. When I got injured and lost a great deal of swing speed I found more accuracy and distance from my 12 degree.