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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. Only you can answer that question. If you hit certain clubs poorly, then you may need to adjust swing weight if it's one of the outliers. The only one that really stands out to me is the AW. I might add some lead tape to that one and get it up a little. The rest I am less concerned with assuming you hit them okay, comparatively.
  2. Don't do it, that's my advise. The idea is counterproductive for most golfers. You are adding to the static weight of the club to "trick" a swing weight scale into showing lower numbers. If you really want/need to lower SW, you need to reduce head weight, change shafts to lighter or counterbalanced, or shorten club. I know these options are more complicated but it is the better way.
  3. Little confused by your comments concerning the offset being the problem. Titleist makes some of the least offset clubs on the market across the board including hybrids. Probably less offset than TM. I am thinking this is more of a weight issue than an offset issue. Shaft weight and swing weight. Would really make sure you have the correct shaft weight in that hybrid as they can be all over the map as far as what the OEMs choose to install stock. That being said, the new TM hybrids will look very similar in general to the old Rescues.
  4. Actually, weight is by far and away the most important spec of any shaft. Way more important than, flex, bend profile, torque, even radial consistency. Getting the weight right is a must, the other stuff is more fine tuning at best. If you want to know better before you go ahead and reshaft, get some lead tape and run strips down the length of the shaft starting an inch or so below the grip. Put 10g of tape on and go hit it. Add or subtract until you get the feel and dispersion you are looking for. You may find you want it even heavier, say around 70 or maybe lighter say 62. Then you can pick your shaft based off that.
  5. I'm done. I will let the OP, or any other readers for that matter, decide for themselves if they want to consider my opinions on this.
  6. It is also possible that your current driver is no longer "conforming". If the face was pretty hot to start with, after this much time and many strikes at your speed, the face may now be above the COR limit. Also just as a point of reference, that R11S head usually spins much more than a new driver of today. The fact that you saw the opposite tells me either the loft needs to go down or you need to look at a different current driver to see what you might be missing. I don't think you are going to get much of a change out of just a shaft switch unless, you go with a different weight, or go longer to increase club head speed. And I would be worried that your contact may suffer if you go that route. Even if those numbers seem overly generous, its obvious that you make solid contact right now.
  7. This isn't one size fits all. This is understanding what kind of golfer we are talking about here. Clearly a good player with plenty of speed to burn. Find me a single fitter out in the world who would be happy with those launch and spin numbers based on his speed (even factor in his AoA if you are wanting to be more "precise") and I will show you a bad fitter. Just look at his old driver numbers, those were really solid. Then jumps into the new driver and numbers jump way up. Obviously something is not where it should be, and the best place to start would be with lofting down that new driver.
  8. The M2 is still a very popular driver. Considered by many to be the greatest modern TM driver. The Black I believe is built on an older driver. Not sure if they are old stock that got a new paint job but that would be my guess.
  9. You need to pay attention to what I said first off. I said for distance and control, not just talking about pure distance. Yes, I see you found some LM data with players hitting individual drives (not averages) way up in the air with minimal spin. That is all good and fine when you are down wind or play golf in Palm Springs. However most players don't want to always hit it high, especially better ones. By the way, feel free to check out the tour averages for players, you will see I am correct with my numbers.
  10. At 165 ball speed, you don't need or want 15 degrees or more of launch angle. It's too much by far. For control and better overall distance you want to be around 12 degrees. You can look at tour guys around that 165 ball speed. All of them are under 12 degrees of launch.
  11. Those smash factor numbers were jacked up in my opinion. You don't see regular golfers hit 1.5 ever really unless the machine has been altered. Again, you need to turn the loft down before you will be able to see any meaningful difference in distance. Get the launch around 12 at most and drop the spin under 2500 would be a good start.
  12. At your ball speeds, those launch and spin numbers are way higher then you would want. Your current driver is giving you much more appropriate numbers for your speed. The new heads are supposed to be more aerodynamic to increase speed. The shaft won't really change speed unless the weight is different (ie lighter). That being said, different feeling shafts can change how you deliver the club and sequence your down swing which might give better club speed. I would dial down the loft on that Cobra and see if the numbers get better. The numbers as they are would not make me want to change unless your dispersion was better? Did not see anything about your misses in your post.
  13. I would call Cobra as possibly the very last resort. You will not get any useful information from anyone there, or any OEM for that matter. Sorry, this sort of thing is above the pay grade of anyone you would talk to. May have slightly better chance calling Fuji. Again though it's more educated guess when dealing with one length clubs based on weight and desired help with ball flight.
  14. Just make sure you don't over do it with the new epoxy, especially if you don't clean out the old epoxy fully as it can squeeze further up the shaft which would not be ideal.
  15. Yes, if you are using one length irons where all the heads are the same weight, you would ideally tip all the shafts the same. However there are no hard and fast rules. If you have issues with the long irons, you also have the option of tipping them a bit less to help give you a bit more launch height. Just depends what you need.
  16. You don't need to clean them out completely, although I always do. You do want to drill at least a small hole, say between 1/8 and 1/16 diameter, all the way though the epoxy plug. If you don't have this vent hole, you will run into unnecessary issues when you go to epoxy b/c of the pressure build up pushing the shafts back out of the hosel.
  17. You can get more than 2 degrees, but it is really dependent on the metal used, not so much on the manufacturing process. I can get more than 2 degrees on a Vokey but struggle getting 1 degree on a Cleveland RTX. Both a cast clubs.
  18. Would be amazed if they got it anywhere near 56. Would probably take it somewhere else to be validated, not back to PGA SS. At the end of the day, if they did get it near that, and you can hit it still, that is all that matters. I would never agree to do it for the reasons discussed above but if it worked out, then great.
  19. Very, very confused by what you are saying and asking?? Did you actually bend a Cleveland wedge from 49 degrees to 56? That is basically impossible because of the metal. I feel great if I can get anything more than 1 degree with any of the modern Cleveland wedges. They either don't move, or they snap. Who did the work? For a multitude of reasons I would never bend any club more than 4 degrees max, and that would require a soft wedge and a signed release acknowledging the club may break. This does not even get into the other issues of jacking up the bounce and dropping the flange to the point where the club would be unusable except maybe from the sand.
  20. Two options I can suggest, one is to find a set of Dynamic Gold R300s used on Ebay. Did a quick search and found sets basically new for $110 for 3-p set. Also just checked Rock Bottom Golf and found they have Dynamite XP steel tapers for $41 for 3-p!! That is a pretty stupid good deal. Would still need to get a couple extra wedge shafts sounds like but at that price you could go pick up a couple of any shaft and still be around budget.
  21. Do you hit that hybrid well? I have found most people struggle with any hybrid under 17-18 degrees vs. a fairway wood equivalent. 16 degree hybrid is pretty stout. I personally play a 3 wood, to a 19 degree hybrid, to a 4 iron. I can play the hybrid as a 2 iron/ 5 wood or choke down an inch and get 3 iron length from it.
  22. I like a lot of what Wishon discusses in videos and articles but not this one. This is just a backhanded attempt to push his Wishon clubs bendable hosels while make arguments that just don't make logical sense.
  23. It's actually very simple. Picture in your mind a traditional bonded hosel driver from 15 years ago let's say. Now look at the club from the butt end staring down the shaft with the head sitting flat in address position. So you are looking at the butt of the grip in the foreground and you can see the clubhead in the background. Now imagine that the butt end of the grip is the center of a clock face (ie where the hands are connected to the clock face in the center). All the adjustable hosel is doing is moving the direction the hosel points. So you take a modern adjustable driver and place it into your imagined clock setup. Head in the same position on the ground. However now in the neutral position the grip butt is now pointing towards 12 o'clock (ie more upright lie angle). Modern drivers are more upright in general. If we rotate the hosel 180 degrees, the grip butt will now be pointing towards 6 o'clock and the lie angle will be flatter. Now if we rotate the hosel to change the loft, all we are doing is rotating the hosel so that the shaft is now leaning either towards or away from your target. On our clock diagram this means the hosel is pointing towards 9 o'clock if we are wanting to increase loft and 3 o'clock if we are wanting to lower loft. Of course this is assuming a right handed golfer and club. You may have heard that the adjustable hosels don't actually change the loft, and this is why some people say that. After you rotate the hosel and have the shaft pointing more in this 9 o'clock/ 3 o'clock plane, the head remains sitting flat on the ground until you manually move the shaft back so that it points at the center of the face again (like with our initial bonded hosel driver). So if the shaft was pointing at 9 and we move it back to center and keep the face square to the target, we have just increased the loft. Likewise if we take the shaft that had been pointing at 3 o'clock and again move it back to center keeping the face aligned to the target, we have now lowered the static loft. Of course the other result of this is when we loft up and hold the shaft back in that neutral position, most drivers will want to fall closed because of the weighting and sole design. Likewise, a delofted driver held in that neutral shaft position will fall open. Not all drivers do this depending on design, and as most golfers align the head manually towards the target, it not usually an issue. This is the basis of how all these adjustable hosels work. Moving the hosel to point more towards 9 or 3 will give the greatest loft change. Moving it in the 12/6 o'clock direction will change the lie angle. Moving it somewhere in between will give lesser loft change along with a lie angle change.
  24. I would say that depends on how well you hit your current 3 wood and driver. If you are happy with the 3 wood weight, then I might look at going lighter with the driver. If you are inconsistent with the 60g 3 wood, I might look at something in the 70g range and keep the driver around 60. Just remember, these are not hard and fast rules. You may find that you prefer both at the same weight. I can't tell you that. It requires you trying different weights and seeing shat works. Also if you are interested in "trying" a heavier 3 wood shaft, you can run strips of lead tape lengthwise down the shaft, to bring the weight up. Just keep the tape starting a couple inches from the grip and go down. Cheap and simple way to try a heavier shaft. Sorry I don't have a way to fake making a shaft lighter though, that would just require a different shaft.
  25. Most better players will stagger the weights even if they stay with the same model shaft. The weight is by far the most important element with shafts so I would be more concerned with getting the correct weight for the 3 wood more so than the particular shaft brand and model. As far as how many players match shaft model vs something different, I would say maybe 15-20% of pro golfers match the brand and model just as a point of reference.
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