or Connect
TheSandTrap.com › Golf Forum › The Pro Shop › Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting › help me fix my wedges
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

help me fix my wedges

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 

So I previously had a cheap 56 that i used for EVERYTHING 100 yards and in. sand traps, greenside, everything. I broke it the other day so now I am planning on purchasing a top tier wedge since I use it more than any other club in the bag. I am leaning towards a 58. My question is, should I use this new club for everything? I want to be able to be perfect around the greens and from 100 in, but what about sand traps? Should I make another purchase for a sand wedge? I heard that using this club in the sand could scratch it and make it less useful.

 

thanks

post #2 of 12
If you have one club that your comfortable with, good with and trust. I would not in a million years change your playing style for the sake of changings sake. No point, stick to the usual if that is what you are good at!!
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 

I dont believe sticking with my crappy 56 sandwedge is the best idea. I know I can do better with something else....

post #4 of 12

What exactly do you dislike about your 56? If you just want to get a shiny new one that's fine, but try and tell us exactly what makes it so crappy. The more detail you can provide, the better we can help you.

 

I offer this advice:

 

-If you want more spin, consider picking up a 60 degree along with a sand wedge. The actual backspin will be virtually the same, but the higher trajectory will help the ball stop, especially on short shots. Lack of spin is the worst reason to replace a wedge, and the OEMs like to blow smoke up your ass about the grooves. Spin is gonna be 80 percent technique, about 30 percent dependent on the ball, and only about 10 percent the head and grooves. I think the shaft is pretty much there to give you a certain feedback and encourage a certain technique, so it can be very subjective. That's 120% you say? Exactly. Your expectations on spin are probably too high from watching golf on TV. About the first time you hit a false front 10 feet from the pin and rip the ball 20 yards backwards off it, you'll rethink this common myth that lots of spin is good. If this isn't an issue for you I apologize, but there will be others reading the thread for applicable advice. 

 

-There are 100 billion ways to configure your wedges in your set. I prefer 48, 54, 60 lofts because I like long irons and can hit partial shots in lieu of a gap wedge. It's extremely personal, and based on how you use each one. I will say a 58˚ will help if you want a sand club as well as a higher loft, especially with a strong PW. Generally go with no less than 4˚ gaps in loft, and no more than 6˚ with 8˚ being an absolute max. 

 

-Rust or a raw finish won't get you more spin. Forged wedges won't give you more spin. Neither will give you control or touch or whatever. But both will cost you more generally, and will certainly wear out faster. Chrome plating is a protective finish against rust and is very durable, so for a sand wedge it can keep it intact through heavy use. Soft forged clubs are softer and wear faster than cast, so really it's not worth it to most people to gain an allegedly slightly softer feel.

 

-Iacas and others might point you towards the Edel wedges, which are custom fitted and have very nice sole grinds, etc. It might not work for you, but it's worth reading and possibly getting fitted somewhere. 

post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 

its a cheap worn out 40 dollar club with a bend in the shaft. that is why i dislike it. My shots with this club produce 1 ft backspin at most. Should I grab a separate club for bunkers?

post #6 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by redhotchlypeppr View Post

its a cheap worn out 40 dollar club with a bend in the shaft. that is why i dislike it. My shots with this club produce 1 ft backspin at most. Should I grab a separate club for bunkers?

Thats up to you, if you want show pieces and have the money for it...sure. But golf clubs are tools, they are meant to take some form of a beating. The sand will wear down the faces of clubs faster than say dirt/grass, but the metal is still plenty strong enough to last for a couple seasons at least. Chrome finishes (whether it be polished or satin) will be more durable than raw or most black finishes, so again, if your worried about the looks, go with chrome. Regarding the back spin, as said above, its primarily your swing and clean contact with the ball.

As for lofts, it somewhat depends on what you have and are comfortable with. Some people don't like wedges lofted higher than 56*, personally I need my 60*.

Personally I have 2 setups with my wedges (depending on the course). My main setup uses an 2 fairway woods and 3 wedges (PW, 54*, and 60*). I use the 54* for most approaches and longer bunker shots, and the 60 for everything close (50yards or so and in) and short bunker shots.

For better advice, what are your current wedge setups (loft gaps). Also, whats your swing like (sweeper? digger? somewhere in between?) and whats your average playing conditions (hard ground/sand? softer lies with thicker rough? etc...)
post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 

pw 47, gw 52. I would say i am more of a sweeper. If i do make a divot, it is not very deep. The course is usually on the softer side and the rough can be think at times.

post #8 of 12

A couple of things you could do. If the ailing SW still has grooves on it, why not have it reshafted?

For $6 new grip, $10 labor and $20-30 for a shaft, you have a refurbed club. A good fitter can offer you some interesting shaft options.

 

Or you could get a new wedge. As for a 58*, pay attention to the bounce. A 58* with 10* bounce or less is considered a LW, one with 11* bounce or more a high-lofted SW.

 

Also... If you like your GW, any chance you could get a SW of the same model?

post #9 of 12

Check out the Cobra Trusty Rusty wedges. I LOVE them. The more rust the more spin .

post #10 of 12
Well if you have the room for 2 wedges, I'd suggest that. Look for a 56 and a 60. Mid-high bounce on the 56 (9*-12*) and mid-low on the 60 (4*-8*). This will give you a club for the sand and heavier lies (wet and/or thick grass) as well as a club for short sided shots, short bunker shots, and tight lies. Pretty much any wedge that suits your eye/swing and budget.

If you only have room for 1, a 56 or 58 would do. Something with a mid bounce (10*ish) or a versatile sole like Cobra trusty rusty, TM ATV, or Scor wedges.
post #11 of 12

You may want to look into used wedges if your budget is limited. I picked up three Snake Eyes wedges 52* GW 56* SW and a 60* LW with rifled shafts for $50.00 total. These forged wedges have an amazing feel (versus my Ping G15s), and with new grips for $6.00 a piece, they look and feel like new. I'm a big believer in carrying multiple wedges, each with their own use. GW for 100 and in; SW for close in and out of the sand and the LW I use to go over green side bunkers and other close in work. Having the right tool for the job, and knowing how to use them, is a good way to quickly lower your scores.

post #12 of 12

Go to a shop and try a bunch out.  Usually you can't do full shots with wedge in a shop hitting area, but you can do pitches and chips.  I am not sure where you are located, but if you can go outdoors and try them out, even better.  Take your time and try different lofts and bounce.  Bring in your old wedge for comparison.  Your "go to" short game wedge is a very important club, so spend some time finding what is best for you.  You can even get fitted for wedges (Edel, etc.).

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
TheSandTrap.com › Golf Forum › The Pro Shop › Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting › help me fix my wedges