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Long term goals and progress- part III

onthehunt526

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Approaching my 31st Birthday on Wednesday is a good time to look back and assess things.

As many of you may know my wife and I, welcomed our second daughter, Zoey Bree on November 11, 2017. 

But I was thinking of what I need to do to get from a 6.7 Index to below a 5 this year, and even though it's snowy and cold, I've already taken some steps.

I decided it's finally time for me to get some outside help. I've been doing this myself for 21 years and it's about time a second set of eyes looked at my mess of a golf swing. 3 lessons in, I'm hitting a "draw" for the first time in my golf life. 

I went from having a 7-iron carry of 152 yards pre-lessons, to 170 yards after just 3. I know it's only February and it's indoors, but I am happy.



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    • Well done, you should go to the 85+ one next year.
    • Yep. https://www.mgagolf.org/sites/default/files/Rules Quiz Answers 3-19_0.pdf Quite a poor job by my association.
    • The point is there really is a minimal amount that can be done to ‘prevent’ back issues that many if not most people experience simply by being humans. The golf swing is one of many, many reasons one can develop issues. And some people are more prone to problems than others. The golfers on tour who haven’t had problems don’t have a secret. They don’t have better posture. They’re simply luckier. Obviously certain movements can aggravate or accelerate back issues. But again people will progress at different time frames. Yes it’s nice to hear biomechanics/spine experts. I agree. But unless it’s a matter of extremely poor posture there isn’t a lot that can be done to make the golf swing ‘easier’ on the spine aside from an essentially ineffective swing. Just my 2 cents.
    • I'm new to metal-analysis and newish to golf and I'm sorry if this was s stupid question, like if these irons are somehow clearly cast, to the introductory-trained eye (like by looking at the writing formed into it rather than stamped), but I was confused because the metal seemed to have that same, stretchy-looking grain like the forged Haigs I have... (?) I did try looking up the answer but cannot find it anywhere. I suppose I'd guess "cast" if I had to for these irons, because of the way the logo looks, and because there are more premium versions/sets of Citations? I should probably preface most emails with the fact that I'm particularly into vintage things more than my score in some games (although I do have a relatively modern set for other occasions). I love my Northwestern irons, though, for example. When I get a good shot they are amazing to me. God as my witness, you have my word I'm not just crowd-sourcing y'all in a petty way trying to sell these irons or anything I post online or something, trying to get easy specs from you guys because I'm a seller. I do not sell golf equipment. I used to R&D and make archery equipment out of wood and composites. I just really, really like vintage things and have storage space and like to plan for the future, whether I pass them on over time to someone special or keep them (and knowing more about them helps). I dig before I ask. These came with, not persimmon, but unreal-feeling laminate woods I unexpectedly fell in love with and bought some softer balls for. While persimmon was and is a higher-brow thing, and while my Northwestern laminates feel crummy (love the NW irons tho), the Powerbilt laminate woods that came with this set are more rewarding to hit than some of my more modern steel ones from the late 90's and early 2000's. They have a thick metal sole and a hefty metal weight at the back, and I'd think would give some pure persimmon woods a run for their money. I also feel like it's less likely for the laminated Citation woods to form a crack in the hosel than aged, solid persimmon, and that comes from not only seeing lots of cracks in woods, but because -- even though I'm newer to golf, I am not new at all to hand-making performance sporting goods that put up with immense stress (bows and arrows).  At first I was disappointed when I showed up with $50 for this set of Citation irons with 4 woods, because I thought surely the 3 Citation woods were solid persimmon, but to my surprise they weren't (the picture deceived me). But after swinging these relatively highly engineered, latter-day laminate PB Citation woods, on my property, I am really glad I bought them anyway and intend on restoring them (some moisture got under the finish and tarnished them, and I am experienced in finishing and re-finishing archery equipment...usually by using epoxy clear coat that cures best at 105-115F or so, always superior to cold-cure urethanes and so forth in archery, way more scratch and gouge and ding-resistant, but I'll do a golf-spin on my R&D... while they were R&D'd plenty leading up until their day, there's always room for experimentation in customizing the way we refinish well-aged sporting goods after they become old, which they weren't when they were made.   🙂  Maybe heat-cured archery bow epoxy will be too hard and crack more than a cold-cure acrylic or urethane etc., but I bought a handful of cheap laminate woods nobody wanted to experiment with re: refurbishing coatings. If I can re-strengthen old, dried-out wood while I refurbish how it looks, I'd rather do it than just stay true to the original materials (esp. since I'd either keep them or gift them to friends instead of claiming a purist restoration). But I digress regarding my question about these irons. I'm thinking people are passing the thread by thinking I shouldn't bother people with the question until I can better identify obvious things? I did try looking it up, but the records I find are too ambiguous and do not delve into the differences between Citation, Citation Levelume (which people advertize as forged and which are even more commonly sold), etc. Thanks, Jeff
    • Actually, at first I thought the same thing, but it turns out there was another video on that page that auto-played along with the main video.  There wasn't any background music in the main video.  
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