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Master "Forged vs. Cast" or "Blade vs. Game-Improvement" Iron Thread


muskegman
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Just an FYI, that "classically" styled putter you are using is a copy of the PING Anser. The Anser, in case you forgot, was one of the first putters that featured "perimeter weighting," a design that improves putting by lessening the effect of off center hits.

Not unlike perimeter weighted irons. You should stop trying to "buy results." Better pick up a Bullseye or Wilson 8802. Might help you in your quest to be a player!
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Just an FYI, that "classically" styled putter you are using is a copy of the PING Anser. The Anser, in case you forgot, was one of the first putters that featured "perimeter weighting," a design that improves putting by lessening the effect of off center hits.

Are you serious? Stop feeling defensive. If you are feeling guilty don't attack me.

I said in my post that it is what drives MY DECISION MAKING PROCESS. Do whatever you want. Buy whatever you want. Didn't know there was such thin-skinned women here. But, your point about my scotty cameron being a knock-off to support your attitude of buying results, is so weak.

Driver: Nike Covert Driver

Irons: Mizuno JPX-825 Pro 5-GW 

Cleveland Mashie 1, 2, 3, & 4 hybrids

Wedges: Mizuno MP-T4 Black Nickel 54* & 58*

Putter: Wack-e with super stroke grip

Ball: Titleist Pro V1X

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Tonto, Tarzan and Frankenstein would say...

Dude,,,That is so Funny! Thanks for making me laugh today!!! As far as the original question goes. As a lower handicap player that plays blades I feel that with a CB iron it's harder to fade or draw the ball. Not that it can't be done with the CB iron, but you have to work harder at shaping it because the CB clubhead is built to stay more stable throughout the swing and hitting zone. Here's a way to look at it. If I'm going to race down a curvey road. I want a fast sports car that can turn on a dime, not a big heavy dump truck. In this case the "Blade" irons are the sports car, and the "CavityBacks" are the dump trucks!

In My Bag:
Driver: :Cobra Amp Cell Pro 9.5*, Stock X-Flex

3 Wood: :Cobra Bio Cell 16*, Stock X-Flex

5 Wood: Cobra Bio Cell 20*, Stock S-Flex
Irons: Bridgestone J40-CB 3-PW, Project-X 6.0

Gap Wedge::Vokey: 52* CNC  

Sand Wedge: :Vokey: 58* CNC  

Putters: Scotty Cameron Newport II 

Ball: Bridgestone 330-S(2014)

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The Tiger challenge was that no 10 handicap could break 100 at the U.S. open. A lot of other really good players (Timberlake, Romo I think) played as well and did not play to their handicaps.

Playing to their hcps and being sub-100 are two very different things. Any of them get under 100?

Ummm, it was already done. And, the guy didn't break 100. Their (golf digest) doing again this year. I think M. Jordan is participating.

10 hcp I can see maybe having a problem (maybe) as, generally, they can have a blow up as well as a good day. Sub-5 I would say is much more consistent and if the bet is simply to get below 100, well, I'll play the course to do just that and not against it's par/SSS. I don't doubt the course would be very tough, but the original statement said "no amateur" which is very sweeping. I'm betting that McIlroy's +6 before going pro would get him round in sub-100. Anyway, it's not going to happen for me as I'm not some celeb who's just found the game.

Home Course: Wollaton Park GC, Nottingham, U.K.

Ping G400, 9°, Alta CB 55S | Ping G400, 14°, Alta CB 65S | Adams Pro Dhy 18°, 21°, 24°, KBS Hybrid S | Ping S55 5-PW, TT DGS300 | Vokey 252-08, DGS200 | Vokey 256-10 (bent to 58°), DGS200 | Ping Sigma G Anser, 34" | Vice Pro Plus

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Why would you even have an opinion? You wouldn't know. Plain and simple. Stop theorizing so much and just go play some golf. Or maybe go to the range...

The theory behind blades is that to hit them well, you will have to focus on making a better swing and that, in turn, will make you better. Some also say that you get better feedback with blades. They say that when you mishit the ball, it stings in your hands a little bit.

TaylorMade R11S TP Blur 60 X
TayloreMade R11S TP Blur 70 X

Titleist 910H 21&24
Miura Tournament Blades 5-PW DGX100 Tour Issue
Cleveland CG16 52

Miura Black Wedge 56, 60
Newport 2 Teryllium Ten

Titleist ProV1x

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Couldn't have said it better myself.

Why would you even have an opinion? You wouldn't know. Plain and simple. Stop theorizing so much and just go play some golf. Or maybe go to the range...

Driver: Nike Covert Driver

Irons: Mizuno JPX-825 Pro 5-GW 

Cleveland Mashie 1, 2, 3, & 4 hybrids

Wedges: Mizuno MP-T4 Black Nickel 54* & 58*

Putter: Wack-e with super stroke grip

Ball: Titleist Pro V1X

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Playing to their hcps and being sub-100 are two very different things. Any of them get under 100?

The original quote was from Tiger saying "there was no way a 10–handicapper could break 100 the way that Oakmont Country Club was set up"

Tony Romo shot 83, and Justin Timberlake barely broke 100, he shot 98 or 99. The original amateur, an 8 handicap who won a contest for the right to try, shot 114. I don't remember who the other guy was. Here's the full article: http://2008.usopen.com/en_US/news/ar...732356968.html

Cheers, Allan

In my Ping Hoofer II bag: Titleist 975J | Callaway Big Bertha 3 Wood S2H2 | Mizuno Fli-Hi 18˚ Hybrid | Mizuno MP-33 3-PW | Cleveland Tour Action 900 54/60 | Ping Anser II BeCu | Titleist ProV1

My Playground: Northview G&CC

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  • 1 month later...
I have been playing off and on for about 5 years. My second year of playing I went out and got fitted for clubs. I ended up with a set of TA7 custom to my swing at the time. Since then my stance, grip and swing have all changed A LOT. I need to get new irons and I am trying to figure out if I should go with blades or another cavity set.

I am starting to get more serious about my game this year vs just playing for fun. I know a blade set will be more difficult to hit than my current set but my logic is that I should refine my game with a higher level of club then depend on the equipment to make up for what I lack in skill.

For example, I went from teeing with my 3 wood to a driver last year. I purchased a hibore driver with 10.5 degree of loft. At the time I purchased the driver it helped me get the ball up but now that my speed is much faster I have way too much loft. If I would have purchases an 8 or 9 degree driver I would have had a hard time at first but I would still be good now instead of buying a new driver 1 year later.

Hope that makes sense? Dose my justification hold water or am I making a huge mistake? On a side note, when I miss-hit on my irons it is usually top or blade the ball vs toe or healing the ball.
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I have been playing off and on for about 5 years. My second year of playing I went out and got fitted for clubs. I ended up with a set of TA7 custom to my swing at the time. Since then my stance, grip and swing have all changed A LOT. I need to get new irons and I am trying to figure out if I should go with blades or another cavity set.

well i agree with your logic,and your miss's sound like a sgi wouldn help that even so i would say get a set of blades.
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blades arent as hard to hit as some people say they are. ESPECIALLY todays blades. i recently played with a set of Nickent Arc Blades that felt just as good as any cavity back set ive ever used. granted, i play with "players" cavity back sets (not sgi), but still they felt awesome. i also play with a set of RG Designs blades from time to time and they are great irons too. i think a lot of golfers are afraid to hit them because of what others say. but todays blades arent nearly as bad as the blades from the 60's and 70's.



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Blades aren't hard to hit. Get some; I don't think you'll regret it long term. There's this mystique about blades and how hard they are to hit....cobblers. It's not the clubs, it's the swing. If you have a decent swing (or are on the way to getting one) then blades won't pose any problems.

As for your driver, lowering the loft isn't necessarily the way to go. You may have a low centre of gravity on yours and/or have a low/mid flex point, tip soft shaft. If you like the head, maybe look at getting a new, low launch shaft installed which'll give a lower flight.

Home Course: Wollaton Park GC, Nottingham, U.K.

Ping G400, 9°, Alta CB 55S | Ping G400, 14°, Alta CB 65S | Adams Pro Dhy 18°, 21°, 24°, KBS Hybrid S | Ping S55 5-PW, TT DGS300 | Vokey 252-08, DGS200 | Vokey 256-10 (bent to 58°), DGS200 | Ping Sigma G Anser, 34" | Vice Pro Plus

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Blades aren't hard to hit. Get some; I don't think you'll regret it long term. There's this mystique about blades and how hard they are to hit....cobblers. It's not the clubs, it's the swing. If you have a decent swing (or are on the way to getting one) then blades won't pose any problems.

EXACTLY....

lol, "cobblers"
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As a "cobbler" myself, I need to put my two cents in. Whether you hit a blade, or a player's cavity back, they do about the same thing when you hit them in the center, except the cb might be longer and the blade might "feel" better. But what happens when you don't hit it dead center? that's what you should think about when purchasing irons. Perimeter weighting makes all the difference in the world, and even the smallest cavity will perform better than a blade on off-center hits. The main two reasons to use a blade are either a: you hit the ball dead center 98-100% of the time, or b: your iron trajectory is too high, and blades bent a degree or two strong with the proper shaft is the best way to help this. But if neither one of those applies to you, and you still want blades, get something that resembles a blade (MacGregor V-foil, Callaway X-forged) or a very understated cavity back (Mizuno MP-62, Titleist ZB.) Yes, today's blades are easier to hit, but since that is true, just think how that applies to cavity backs.

In my stand bag:
909D3 with 10.5 degrees of loft and a 45 inch Fujikura Rombax 6Z08, x-flex
909F3 15* with a stock Diamana Blue
FT 18* with an Aldila NV
X-forged ('07), 3-PW with Project X 6.0 CG12, 53/11, and 58* with DSG Red X2, 33"All with Lamkin Crossline Full Cord. (except the putter of...

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blades arent as hard to hit as some people say they are.

Yup, those nickents sure are nice. Love my set, took it over the taylormade tp's and the mizunos. Plays like a player's cavity but when you pure it, it's as pure as a muscle back can be. I'd say skip the super game improvement irons, waste of time in my opinion and money lost to me. After going from the GI irons myself, it only seems like a marketing scheme to get you to buy an extra set of clubs you would want to upgrade from. Too much precision lost in my opinion for not enough forgiveness. If you're looking at a forgiving club, go with some kind of deeper cavity. I find most misses for a player with GI irons are still flubbed shots, so why remove the chances of a good pure strike being right on target with that less accurate, less concise club?

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Player's cavity's are great as well. Especially the MP-62. Try those things out. They are rediculously forgiving for what they are.
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Yup, those nickents sure are nice. Love my set, took it over the taylormade tp's and the mizunos. Plays like a player's cavity but when you pure it, it's as pure as a muscle back can be. I'd say skip the super game improvement irons, waste of time in my opinion and money lost to me. After going from the GI irons myself, it only seems like a marketing scheme to get you to buy an extra set of clubs you would want to upgrade from. Too much precision lost in my opinion for not enough forgiveness. If you're looking at a forgiving club, go with some kind of deeper cavity. I find most misses for a player with GI irons are still flubbed shots, so why remove the chances of a good pure strike being right on target with that less accurate, less concise club?

thats one hell of a nice bag of clubs you got there imtomtomim

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I personally wouldnt want blades. I dont see the sense in using clubs that make this game even more difficult than it already is, but to each their own.
If you really want blades, I say go for it. Dont let someone tell you that you shouldnt hit blades or that you cant hit blades. Just know that blades will be less forgiving and you will need to spend more time working on your swing. As long as you have the time and patience to devote to your game, I say go for it.
If you are someone whose idea of practice is going to the range once or twice a week and only playing once a week, blades probably arent the best idea.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S

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