Jump to content
Subscribe to the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 6004 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

If you have a fearly high handycap (like myself!) would u recomend a softer ball or a harder ball? Whats the purpose of a "softer feel" ball? What are the benifits and problems with each one?
What brands would you recomend?
aahah thanks on this one!

In my Tour Bag:


Taylormade RBZ Driver, 3w, 3h
Cobra Amp Cell Irons 4i-pw
Vokey Wedges, 52,56,60

Scotty Cameron Putter


"I'd shoot an eagle anyday over a regular ol' birdie"


Whatever you can get a good deal on that feels good off your putter.

My faves are the E5+, Precept Laddie and lately the Maxfli Noodle+ "Long & Soft".
909D Comp 9.5* (house MATRIX OZIK XCON-6)
Burner Superfast 3 & 5 woods (house MATRIX OZIK XCON-4.8)
G15 Hybrid 23* (AWT shaft)
G5 5 iron-PW-46*, UW-50*, SW-54 & LW-58 (AWT shaft)
Studio Select Newport 2 Mid SlantGrips: PING cords & Golf Pride New Decade Multi-Coumpound Bag: C-130...

regardless of handicap, i would always suggest a softer ball. you should pick a ball based on your swing speed based on how hard of soft of a ball you need. a few of my favorite cheap balls would be the pinaccle fx gold soft(not the long drive balls), the nike softs, and the maxfli noodle "long and soft"...each gives good distance and feel and is halfway decent around the greens.

In my Diablo Edge Tour/ Titliest Stand Bag:
Driver: Nike VR Pro 8.5* w/ Myazaki 43g X
3 Wood: Nike VR Pro II 13.5* w/ Diamana Whiteboard 83g X
5 Wood: Cobra S9-1 Pro 18* w/ Diamana Whiteboard 83g X

Hybrid: Mizuno MP Fli-Hi 21* w/ Prolaunch Red X
Irons: 4-7 Titleist 712 CB, 8-9 712 MB w/ TT Dynamic Gold X100

Wedges: 46* Vokey SM4, 54* Vokey SM4, 60* TMade ATV

Putter: Scotty Cameron Newport 2 Belly 43"


A harder ball, because most likely you don't hit the ball perfectly straight and if you play a prov1 doing that, it could be in the other fairway. I play Nike juice ,I like them a lot and with a full wedge shot they back up like a couple inches for me.

The purpose of a softer ball, for the most part is to generate spin, this can be good around the greens but off the driver, it can be a killer. Harder balls will spin less, usually go a bit further, be more durable(last longer), and are not as expensive. I love the NXT Tour and the NXT Extreme for their price. I'd try as many as i could before making a decision. i do recommend sticking with one ball for predictability and feel.

happy whacking!

You may want to check out Dunlop LoCo balls. I use these here in the early spring and late fall/early winter and they seem to do well. They're nice and soft and bite like hell on the greens, all for under 15$ a dozen.

Top Flite makes some good inexpensive balls now (D2 Feel, Gamer, etc.). X-outs are another option - good balls with cosmetic imperfections. And there are several websites (like lostgolfballs.com ) that sell used balls. There used to be a good article on golf.com that compared and reviewed balls at all price points, but I can't find it now.

In myBagBoy Revolver: HiBore XL 10.5° ⢠HiBore 3W ⢠Halo 2i, 3i & 4i
MX900 5-PW ⢠MP-R 52-07° & 58-10° ⢠Studio Select Squareback 1

Carl Spackler: This is a hybrid. This is a cross of Kentucky Bluegrass, Featherbed Bent, and Northern California Sensemilia. The amazing stuff...


I'm still a big fan of the Maxfli Fire. You can find it online for less than 10 a dozen.

In the
AMP Cart Bag
Driver : 3Dx Square Tour 8°
3 Wood : 4DX
2H : Edge CFT TitaniumIrons : M685 3-PWWedges : CG12 Satin 54° and 58°Putter : Odyssey White XG #9 33"Balls : Staff ZIP


For a high handicapper I'd recommend going with low cost balls as your over riding priority. Chances are you'll lose a lot of balls and that can start to get pretty expensive if you insist on using new balls that are even in the mid priced bracket. I'd go with a lower compression distance ball. You can find a lot of different brands that fit that bill for a good bit less than $1 per ball. Sometimes the Nike Long and Softs go for two dozen for $15. Other brands will likewise have similar deals. Forget about thinking that a more expensive ball will help your game. It won't. It doesn't matter how much you spend on a ball if you hit it with the club face wide open or closed it will slice or hook on you no matter what.

Nike Vapor Speed driver 12* stock regular shaft
Nike Machspeed 4W 17*, 7W 21* stock stiff shafts
Ping i10 irons 4-9, PW, UW, SW, LW AWT stiff flex
Titleist SC Kombi 35"; Srixon Z Star XV tour yellow

Clicgear 3.0; Sun Mountain Four 5


I try a lot of balls and still find the Nike Power Soft to be one of the best ones, especially for the price. A few years ago one of the magazines placed it second in a shootout with big name expensive balls. It's soft but doesn't spin a bunch. Good for us amateurs.

Drivers:
FT-i Draw 9* W/Grafalloy Red
Sumo2 5900 9.5* W/Grafalloy Red

Irons: A3OS 3-PW Graphite/Steel regularWedges: A3OS GW, SW, LWPutter: Rossa Monza SpiderLittle round white thing:

For what it's worth, I've gone from shooting 120s to shooting 100s this year. I think its about 50/50 between my equipment and my playing more, but one of the best moves I think I made was going to Nike Ignite as the only ball I play.

first of all, I've found the consistency and confidence I get from always playing the same ball is important, no matter what that ball is. But the Nike Ignite has made my hooked shots hook a lot less, keeping me in the game. I also can get just a little bit of backspin with mt SW, which is amazing to me.

I would say, whatever you pick, just buy a ton of them at once. Playing one ball consistently, to me, might be more important that playing the right ball.

I'd echo the Bridgestone E5+ recommendation. Fantastic ball for the money although I wouldn't call it "soft". Top level urethane cover which is unusual for the price bracket. Spins a lot (good control near greens) of short irons. Long off the tee, gets up well. Solid off putter. Doesn't suffer too badly from shearing of the cover either with the modern, silly, "spin milled" wedges and square grooves either.

As for the rest, it depends what you're after. For me, I want greenside control so I always want a ball that spins (which usually feel "softer") but I'm reluctant to blow money on the ubiquitous ProV1 or ProV1x, good though they may be. By the way, unless you gun it hard, you won't get the most of the ProV1x.

I also don't want anything that feels like hitting a brick as it's horrible off a putter and for chipping even if it does blast away from a driver.

Home Course: Wollaton Park GC, Nottingham, U.K.

Ping G400, 9°, Alta CB 55S | Ping G400, 14°, Alta CB 65S | Adams Pro Dhy 18°, 21°, 24°, KBS Hybrid S | Ping S55 5-PW, TT DGS300 | Vokey 252-08, DGS200 | Vokey 256-10 (bent to 58°), DGS200 | Ping Sigma G Anser, 34" | Vice Pro Plus

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Just go out and start playing pro v1s.

For a high handicapper there is no better high than hitting a $4 ball when you need 180 yards of carry if you ever want to see it again

Follow me on twitter

Chris, although my friends call me Mr.L

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  meenman said:
Just go out and start playing pro v1s.

Funny joke. If you like cringing after every shot, buy pro v1s. Cringing is probably what you'll be doing as a 34 handicap playing a pro v1. Unless you hit it remarkably straight.


  st0wgolf08 said:
Funny joke. If you like cringing after every shot, buy pro v1s...

Ha!

I played 9 holes with a guy a week ago who I know lost at least 6-7 balls. I left him at the turn. I can't imagine doing that with $2 balls much less $4 ones!?!

Nike Vapor Speed driver 12* stock regular shaft
Nike Machspeed 4W 17*, 7W 21* stock stiff shafts
Ping i10 irons 4-9, PW, UW, SW, LW AWT stiff flex
Titleist SC Kombi 35"; Srixon Z Star XV tour yellow

Clicgear 3.0; Sun Mountain Four 5


Note: This thread is 6004 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    TourStriker
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • That answers my question.  That feels more natural to me. I'll work on that. Thanks
    • Complex question. Good players begin pushing forward around P2. Visibly around P3. They're well on their way forward at P4.
    • Still plugging away with the teacher.  I do have a question after working on some drills last night. This is something I should know already but for some reason, I have gotten myself confused. It deals with weight transfer on the downswing. At what point, should that take place?  Should it be early (prior to reaching A4) ?  I ask because in one of my drills  I get to A4, I feel the weight transfer AS my arms drop, and then go.  Now this may be totally normal, but I "feel" like this gets me in a weird timing position and causes me to try and do too much at once.
    • Tentatively in for at least one of those days. My job situation is a bit up in the air at the moment so need to get that sorted out first then I'll know more for sure or not.
    • Wordle 1,383 3/6 🟨⬜⬜⬜🟩 🟩⬜⬜🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...