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Posted
When I am hitting my driver the best, it is usually a high straigh-slight fade.

My irons are usually high slight draws. All my shots go HIGH!!

Bryan A
"Your desire to change must be greater than your desire to stay the same"

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
When i play well a high 2-5 yd draw w/ all my clubs except wedges.

In My Hank Haney IJGA Bag
Driver: FT Tour 9.5 w/ Aldila Voodoo Stiff
3 Wood: i15 15.5 w/ avixcore red stiff
Hybrids: Rescue 09 19, 22 w/ fujikara fit on stiff
Irons: 4 & 5 MP-52, 6-PW MP-58 w/ KBS Tour Stiff Wedges: MP T-10 52*, 58* w/ KBS Tour StiifPutter: Fastback 1 34 inBall: : Pro...


Posted
Driver: mid-high draw
4-wood: low severe draw
irons: High slight-draw
wedges: Low
putter: very low
Bag: Flight SS
Driver: 10.5* r5 draw with Pro Launch blue 65 Stiff
Irons: CCi Forged 3i-pw
Wedges: 56* CG12 black pearl and 60* low bounce RTG 900
Putter: i-Series Anser 35"Ball: e5+Tee: Zero FrictionGlove: FootJoy WeatherSofRangefinder: MedalistShoes: Sp-6 II, Adidas 360Scores this year:92 91...

Posted

Ball goes up... ball comes down.... sometimes ball goes where I aim it.



I was always told that honesty is the best policy.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
woods- power fade (probly my favorite shot shape b/c it give great distance and great accuracy unlike a draw)
Irons- high draw, probly anywhere from 3-6yards
wedges- very high(too high) slight draw

Posted

I draw absolutely everything, don't ask me to hit a cut. Hit my wedges and putter spraight though...


Posted
Driver and Woods: Power fade

Irons: Fairly straight, may have a slight fade some days (don't ask me to play a draw, I just can't do it)

Wedges: Dead Straight

Putter: Not even close to being straight.

Driver: Tour Burner TP 9.5* Whiteboard Stiff
Hybrid: Rescue Dual 19*
Irons: 4-pw Mp-32 S300
Wedges: Vokey Spin Milled 56* and 60*
Putter: Newport 2 34" 340gBall: Pro-V1 or NXT-tourShoes: Adidas Tour 360 LTD


Posted
Driver - Slight mid-high draw
3 wood - mid straight off tee...I play a slight fade off the FW sometimes
hybrids - straight to slight fade...I haven't figured them out yet
irons - high 5 yard draw. Will sometimes fade it depending.
wedges - straight and high

In my Ogio Ozone Bag:
TM Superquad 9.5* UST Proforce 77g Stiff
15* Sonartec SS-2.5 (Pershing stiff)
19* TM Burner (stock stiff)
4-U - PING i10 White dot, +1.25 inches, ZZ65 stiff shafts55*/11* Snake Eyes Form Forged (DGS300)60*/12* Snake Eyes Form Forged (DGS300)Ping i10 1/2 MoonTitleist ProV1


Posted
My default swing shape is high cut/fade with all my clubs. If that's the way I'm hitting on the ball on any given day I'm happy 'cos I know I can play it and it'll be pretty consistent. Having said that I've just been fitted and am waiting for my new clubs to arrive and I hope the fact that the lie angle is right for me will allow me to hit a straighter shot.

What's in the bag
Big sticks Ping Rapture V2 9° Fusion FT-3 3-Wood, 3,4 Hybrid

Irons Ping I10 5-GW
Wedges Cleveland RTX 54° Spin Milled Vokey 60°Putter Redwood Anser Titleist NXT Tour 1500 rangefinder


Posted
Driver: Power Fade
Irons: 3-4 yard fade

I typically only draw the ball if I need to get around something, which my buddy thinks is 'weak' but I just play my natural shot.

Titleist 910D3 8.5* Aldila RIP
Titleist 910F 13.5* Diamana Kai'li
Nickent 4DX 20* and 24*
Tour Preferred 5-PW
52.08, 56.14, 60.04 Titleist Vokey

Odyssey Metal-X #9 Putter

Pro V1x


Posted
Used to be deal left, now it's dead straight.

My swing thoughts:

- Negative thinking hurts more than negative swinging.
- I let my swing balance me.
- Full extension back and through to the target. - I swing under not around my body. - My club must not twist in my swing. - Keep a soft left knee


Posted
draw irons and driver, I want to hit a fade

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


Posted
high fade with everything, it's the only way to control the ball on tight courses.

Driver - TaylorMade R7 425
3-Wood - Callaway Original Steelhead
Irons - Ben Hogan 3-PW Apex FTX, Rifle 6.5
Wedges - Titleist Vokey 52, 56, and 60
Putter - Scotty 2004 Newport Beach 1.5


Posted
My drive is a fairly consistent fade, about 5-10 yards depending on how hard I go at it.
Irons are sraight for the most part, but a slight fade gets in there sometimes.
Wedges are low trajectory and straight.

Brandon

R7 460 SuperQuad driver
G5 3 wood
Rescue Mid 2H R7 3-AW Vokey Spinned Milled 60* White Hot Tour #5 Burner TP


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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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