Most workable Driver?

[jonanthans]

I'm in the market for a new driver, and am looking for the best workability in one. I currently have a Taylormade Tour Burner 9*, and an Adams Redline RPM 10*5. You can't beat the Adams for distance, I have hit some absolute bombs with it, it just has very little workability. The Taylormade also has little workability, and is a good bit shorter on distance as well. I have yet to hit any of the Mizuno, Callaway or Titleist drivers. Any suggestions?

[Tmauer144]

Try the Taylor Made Burner and not the Taylor Made Tour Burner.

[Dub]

I don't think it will be the G10...however, this stick will pull off baby cuts and fades at will....enough that you can bend it slightly to favor the contour of the hole. I'm not skilled enough to make it really work hard....some may be...but I suspect they are hitting a different head....like one of the Titleist.

I've certainly hit my share of big hooks and slices, too....but it was not my intent to do so.....argggghhhh

[Kcas77]

I would go with the titleist 909 d3 or the taylormade r9 tp

[cigarnut81]

A strong 3 wood is the most workable driver! Find yourself a 12 or 13* fairwaywood and enjoy!!!

[Laxplayer201092]

I find my 905R to be a little left biased, but my 907 is pretty workable, so look into either the MP600, or a 907D2, or the 909's if you like spending money.

[laxstar24]

I spent about 2 months of testing all the "tour drivers" because i can hit the ball with enough distance fairly easily, but my control was terrible. I tried the Cobra Pro S9-1 Pro, Ping G-10, Titleist 909D2, and the Taylormade Tour Burner. I was going to buy the Cobra and i went to the range with one of my buddies and tried his 909D3 with Proforce V2 65g Stiff and needless to say I bought one the next day. Hands down the most controllable driver I have ever hit. If price isn't an issue or you can find a good deal on e-bay like I did I would definately suggest getting the D3.

[Ben]

In all honesty I think any club is as workable as the next, so long as you know what you're doing. That being said, If you want maximum workability [draw and fade] a wise choice would be a club with a square face with no offset and a shaft fitted to your swing. I've got an FT-9 Tour and can do what I want with it.

[Big_M]

  cigarnut81 said:

A strong 3 wood is the most workable driver! Find yourself a 12 or 13* fairwaywood and enjoy!!!

a stong 3-wood by definition is NOT a driver... Most strong 3's aren't going to give you the same distance as a good driver... so why carry one when there are plenty of workable drivers out there.

  Ben said:

In all honesty I think any club is as workable as the next, so long as you know what you're doing. That being said, If you want maximum workability [draw and fade] a wise choice would be a club with a square face with no offset and a shaft fitted to your swing. I've got an FT-9 Tour and can do what I want with it.

I would agree... I haven't found a driver that I can't make go both ways... but some are certainly better than others. The sqaure face helps... as will a slightly reduced MOI... and more compact clubhead, preferably with a neutral or slightly open face.

[Doctorfro]

Workability? Isn't that kind of like Skillnaden? Drinkability?

[TinCupTampa]

  Ben said:

In all honesty I think any club is as workable as the next, so long as you know what you're doing. That being said, If you want maximum workability [draw and fade] a wise choice would be a club with a square face with no offset and a shaft fitted to your swing.

Couldn't have said it bettter.

[iacas]

  Ben said:

In all honesty I think any club is as workable as the next, so long as you know what you're doing.

That's true to a point, but I suspect you know it only goes so far or you wouldn't have contradicted yourself a little:

  Ben said:

That being said, If you want maximum workability [draw and fade] a wise choice would be a club with a square face with no offset and a shaft fitted to your swing.

That's the key. Get fitted and find a club that's neutral. You can still fade an R9 set to "Left" with all the weight in the heel, but it's gonna be REALLY hard to do it consistently.

I had more trouble than I should have drawing my 907D2, but that's because I had to play the ball up a bit more than I like to try to eliminate some backspin. So get a driver and shaft that's fitted for your launch conditions (spin, angle, ball speed), doesn't have super high MOI (which has more to do with the CG being further back, reducing workability - this kind of eliminates most of the square ones), is as neutral as possible (might be the "Tour" version of some clubs), and looks good to you. Then swing away.

[Ben]

  iacas said:

That's true to a point, but I suspect you know it only goes so far or you wouldn't have contradicted yourself a little:

Yeah, that's why I made that distinction. More for the average Joe golfer.

A few months back I was hitting balls on the range when a member approached me with one of these, 2008 Callaway Big Bertha Irons , and said to me that when he looked down on the thing he thought there was no way he'd be able to fade the thing, and asked me to try. Not only did I pull off a little baby fade, but I was able to hit a banana slice with it too. So yeah, anything can be worked. But some clubs will be easier than others...

[DJYoshi]

I can draw and fade my HiBoreXL pretty well.... most of the time it's a baby fade b/c that's my natural shot.... but if need be I've learned how to work it....i found it hard to work a "tour" driver...it made me think...wow that driver is much harder..even though it's only 2 degrees open....everything i hit wasn't as accurate as when i hit on the sim and range with my driver.
but i've tried this year's
hibore
tour edge xcd
the burner and burner tour
r9
the rapture.
last year's exotics cb2 tour proto

out of all of them.. loved the look of the rapture.. but found the sound annoying.
loved the feel of the exotics tour proto... but hit the burner the best....

[pshizz]

you'll want a driver with low MOI, and a square face. I i were you i would try the r7 425 TP. I have the regular version of this driver, and its definetly workable due to its small size.

[Magnus]

  Big_M said:

...The sqaure face helps... as will a slightly reduced MOI... and more compact clubhead, preferably with a neutral or slightly open face.

I found taking a step back to a smaller head makes it much easier to work the ball. I have both a Titleist 905s and 983e, both do not have the heel weighting most clubs have today, so fading a ball is easier, which seems rather difficult with the larger 460cc heads that have alot of heel weight to help people keep it left, as most better players have no problem moving the ball left or, in my case, way left.

[Shorty]

  Ben said:

In all honesty I think any club is as workable as the next, so long as you know what you're doing. That being said, If you want maximum workability [draw and fade] a wise choice would be a club with a square face with no offset and a shaft fitted to your swing. I've got an FT-9 Tour and can do what I want with it.

I have to agree with this post. I believe that correct technique will allow a draw and certainly a strong fade with any driver.

I feel as if a lot of hackers would love the opportunity to say that they hit some of the new square drivers great, but they are "too straight" because it implies a high degree of precision and control. I have played a lot of courses and holes which favour a fade or a draw, but have yet to see one where a straightish drive is going to penalise you. Having said that, I would think that a 905 series Titleist fits the bill.

[TN94z]

I just got a Mizuno MP600 and that things is very workable. I played today and could hit a nice draw and a nice fade any time I wanted. It has been one of the better drivers I have had as far as being able to work the ball. I have never (I don't know why) owned a Titleist but I would imagine it is the same way. I agree with Ben...any driver that has a square clubface should get the job done.