Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5894 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
My budget is kinda tight....LOL! I was thinking about boxed sets, to start out.

If there are stores in your area with a pga pro on staff I would start there. Places like Dicks, Sports Authority (not sure on golfsmith for boxed sets but I would try there as well) have lots of boxed sets at decent prices and you should be able to hit a few before you decide. Just let them know right off what your looking to spend so they dont give you something that your not going to want to buy due to price, also you might be able to find something you see in the store from a respectable online retalier as well for a lower price. Stick with a cavity back for sure and dont forget the lessons, even one will help a lot. Let us know how it works out.

4DX Evolver 10.5 Stiff UST V2
Big Bertha Steelhead Plus 3wood
mp-32 3-pw tt x100's
xtour 56/52deg
feel golf 60 deg lob wedge dual force rossie blade I golf balls


Posted
My budget is kinda tight....LOL! I was thinking about boxed sets, to start out.

How tight is tight? Should you be taking up golf at all? If you just want to hit balls at the range and maybe golf the occasional round, look at sets from Play it Again, kijiji, Goodwill, ebay, etc.

When it comes to golf clubs, a well taken care of quality used set, is a better value than a brand new shiny box o' crap.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
I'd like to thank everybody for chiming in! It's more than I've got from others!

We post 'cuz we love...the game not you! jk

Seriously- whatever you decide on find someone who'll have you swing each club and check for lie angle and check/bend the lofts correctly otherwise you won't know what's causing those mis hits and distance gaps. Even a well made box set or "name brand" set can be off enough to cause you fits of tree wrapping frustration! Enjoy the walk...

KZG Gemini 9* Aldila Proto By You
Leyland COPlasma 3wd
Golfsmith Q4 19*
Louisville HyLofter 24*
Wishon 770CFEs w/Nippons
Alpha P2 wedges
Louisville EWP putter


Posted
Something with cavity backs irons wise... Taylor Made r7s are dirt cheap now... yank the 4-iron and get a hybrid... and a sand wedge... don't need a driver, but get 3-wood... but don't pay too much on that... should pay more than $500 to start the game... a decent putter... good bag.... etc... your set up should be 3-wood, Hybrid, 5-iron thru pitching wedge, gap wedge, sand wedge, putter...

When I started 19 years ago at age four I had a 5-wood, 6-iron, wedge, and putter and that was it...

What's in Shane's Bag?     

Ball: 2022 :callaway: Chrome Soft Triple Track Driver: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond 8° MCA Kai’li 70s FW: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond  H: :callaway: Apex Pro 21 20°I (3-PW) :callaway: Apex 21 UST Recoil 95 (3), Recoil 110 (4-PW). Wedges: :callaway: Jaws Raw 50°, 54°, 60° UST Recoil 110 Putter: :odyssey: Tri-Hot 5K Triple Wide 35”

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
I would for sure go with ebay and find a reputable brand cavity back iron set. www.globalgolf.com has some good used sets you could check out as well. And if you still can't find a set, shoot me a PM, I have a set of Adams in the garage I'll give you a good deal on.

In The Bag:
Driver: 
 RBZ 10.5*
3 Wood:  RBZ 15 *
Hybrids G15 17* & 20*
Irons​ G2 4-UW 
Wedges:  Vokey 54*
Putter:  MC-03w
Balls:  PD Soft


Posted
Oh another thing, once you get your first set maybe you might want to start out on a par3 course, but only if you have one in your with yardages from 120-200 yards (a pitch and putt with max yardage of under 100yrds wont do you any good). A course like that will make you use all your irons especially as a beginner. That way even on a poorly struck first shot you still have the opportunity to hit it on the green, which will help you build confidence and you'll also be using most of your irons and getting familiar with exactly how far you are able to hit them.

4DX Evolver 10.5 Stiff UST V2
Big Bertha Steelhead Plus 3wood
mp-32 3-pw tt x100's
xtour 56/52deg
feel golf 60 deg lob wedge dual force rossie blade I golf balls


Posted
My starter set was Top-Flite XL ($199). It came with 460cc driver, 3 wood, 4h, 5h, 6-PW, putter with standing bag. If you want to get a decent set, shop on ebay for good deals.

Ping G15 10.5° Driver with Aldila NVS 65-S 
Ping G15 15.5° 3 wood
Adams: IDEA A3 3H, (A7)4H, 5H, 6, 7, 8, 9 irons, PW
Cleveland:CG12 56°, 60°
Nike: IC 20-10 Putter


Posted
a great starter club. well i started with Callaway X-12 irons. i am also selling them. so if you are on a tight budget, message me and we'll see how tight it really is :) if you are interested of course.

Driver: Callaway FT-5 9*
3 Wood: Callaway ERC fusion
5 Wood: Callaway ERC titanium
Irons: Mizuno MP-57 3-PW
wedge: Callaway X Forged 58*/mizuno MPR 54*Putter: scotty. newport #2Balls: Range balls ;)


Posted
I would recommend either Ping G15 or Ping G10 for starter clubs. They are very forviving and have a huge 'sweet spot'. But they are quite expensive.
Good Luck!

Cheers
Daneos

In my Golf Bag...

Driver: Burner 07 10.5 Degree w/ V2 76g Stiff
F/way Wood: : J33 15 Degree w/ Aldila NV 85g Stiff
Hybrid: 909H 19 Degree w/ V2 89g StiffIrons: Tourstage X-blade 05 3-Pw w/ True Temper Black Gold StiffWedges: Oil Can Vokey 09 55 and 60 Degree's w/ S300'sPutter: Newport 2.5Bal...


Posted

James - I actually still play with the Titech irons that I bought from last year, however my entire bag has changed besides the irons. Will get fitted this year with new ones...

My honest opinion the Titech's aren't bad to start with for ~$99. I wasn't sure how often I will get to play so I bought them last year. The irons are definitely -1/2 shorter then your typical name brands...However they are pretty easy to hit and forgiving...Its not bad for a starter set...
Would these be good?

ogio.gif Black/White Ozone Stand bag, Caddytek 13.5 Black/Red Push Cart

taylormade.gif RBZ Tour 9* Stiff / ping.gifRapture 3 'metal' Titanium 14* Stiff Aldila Proto VS 'By You'
adams.gif Hybrid A2 20*3 hybrid Stiff Aldila VS / ping.gifRapture Black Dot 4-PW Stiff / cleveland.gifWedges CG11 54* SW / taylormade.gif RAC 52*, 58*Wedge / odyssey.gif  33" White Hot XG


Posted
Should've told me, I would've sold you my set... lol...

ogio.gif Black/White Ozone Stand bag, Caddytek 13.5 Black/Red Push Cart

taylormade.gif RBZ Tour 9* Stiff / ping.gifRapture 3 'metal' Titanium 14* Stiff Aldila Proto VS 'By You'
adams.gif Hybrid A2 20*3 hybrid Stiff Aldila VS / ping.gifRapture Black Dot 4-PW Stiff / cleveland.gifWedges CG11 54* SW / taylormade.gif RAC 52*, 58*Wedge / odyssey.gif  33" White Hot XG


Posted
Thanks everyone....I bought me some clubs today!! I got the ones at Wal-Mart...their nice looking clubs.

Good work. Now get to work growing out of them.

In the bag:
FT-iQ 10° driver, FT 21° neutral 3H
T-Zoid Forged 15° 3W, MX-23 4-PW
Harmonized 52° GW, Tom Watson 56° SW, X-Forged Vintage 60° LW
White Hot XG #1 Putter, 33"


  • 1 month later...
Posted
Hello all,

I have an additional question: Is there a time/handicap/something to move from these starter sets to better clubs? I mean how do i know when these started sets reached their limit (ie won't take me any further in the game)?

Currently have an MD Golf Sure Fire starter set...

Thanks in advance,
Rui

In my MD Golf SureFire bag...

MD Golf SureFire complete set LOL


Posted
there really isnt after mt first 12 rounds i got irons i would of got everything but the irons are what i could afford also i spent at least 2 months on each researching if they fit me. dont be an impulse buyer
DriverMonster Hi-Bore XLS/w Mintsubishi Diamana Fit-On M Gold Stiff 55g
Woods906F4 3 Wood/w Aldila VS Proto Fairway Stiff 80g
Hybrid3dx red 20 and 23 degree
Irons3dx red 5-pw
Wedgesharmonized sand wedge 56 degree loft and harmonize lob wedge 60 degree loftPutterWhite Hot XG SabertoothBallNoddle or ...

Note: This thread is 5894 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 254 5-4 Arms off chest in backswing and downswing. Short swing, pause and then hit.  Hit foam balls. Keeping arching of wrist a focus as well. 
    • I would think of it in terms of time. The time it takes to get the arm angle into a good position to deliver the club with proper shaft lean. Another component is rotation, but that is also a matter of timing. It relates to how the body stalls to give the golfer time to hit the ball. If you have to get 80+ degrees out of that right elbow in one third of a second versus 50 degrees in the same time then you have to steal time from somewhere. It is usually body rotation. That does not help with shaft lean.  I agree in that amateurs tend to make the swing more complicated than pro golfers. 
    • I haven't been able to practice like I wanted and won't for the next week.  1. The weather sucks in Ohio this year. I have been mostly inside hitting foam balls. Just kind of my basic stuff.  2. I woke up last Saturday with a left side rib muscle on fire. If I turned or leaned a certain way it would spasm that almost buckled my knees. I have been taking a break to let that settle. I don't want to get a long term injury. I think I pinched a nerve or just aggravated a muscles.   3. I am going on a mini-vacation to Florida (screw you Ohio weather) with a friend, and rolling that into a work conference I have next week. I will be with out my clubs for a week.  I will be back next in two Fridays to hit the ground running with some warmer temps and better weather in Ohio, hopefully. I would really like to get more out on the course and the range.     
    • Day 580 - 2026-05-04 Played eight holes. Sometimes golf kicks you in the nuts. 😉 
    • I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.