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Posted
give me a blade and that big GI iron in the pic above and I garauntee I will hit the blade farther and better. Keep in mine Im a 15 handicap too.

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Posted
most of golf is psychological, if you think you can hit the shot then there's a chance you can hit the shot.

If you read his post he said even if he hit it better he wouldn't play it. He is a good player, so I don't think he needs to worry about confidence.

give me a blade and that big GI iron in the pic above and I garauntee I will hit the blade farther and better. Keep in mine Im a 15 handicap too.

Terrible short game huh?


Posted
Terrible short game huh?

Funny you should say that - shots around the green are easier to hit with blade type irons. When I hear high handicappers raving about their Titleist Vokey wedges - great distance control!?!? - I ask why does that theory apply to a wedge and not a 6 iron? I personally feel like distance control is easier with the thinnest irons you can comfortably use. When "technology" is added to make the ball go higher* and farther, it's not conducive to distance control. Who needs to hit their mid-irons higher? Really? And you've been playing for how long?

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
Terrible short game huh?

Didn't you know? Everyone on the Internet could play on Tour, they just don't want to.....


Posted
I think that we are off topic here and missing the point of the debate. I play AP2's and while they aren't blades, the have a relatively thin sole and topline. The point, after reading all of the posts, is that most people think that lower handicap players play the "players irons" because they help them. While this perception may be true the real truth is that lower handicap players have learned to control their swing, wichch is both the swing path and the clubface at impact. So while we are on topic saying that you can "work the ball" easier with a "players club" the point is that the better players have learned to control the slice/fade and hook/draw to their advantage. The OP asked why it's desirible to have a thiner profile. The reason is that if you control what the ball does in the air, you can use it to your advantage. If you cant then you need to eliminate the movement of the ball in the air all together. So basically better players don't want to eliminate the ability to move the ball in the air, while pepole who are learning and dont have a constant swing need to just hit it strait. That's what the club companies are getting at.

Unfortunately the message by better players is louder, in that we want to work the ball, but really we can control the slice and hook to our advantage. Can I play with GI irons just as well? Absolutely, and I'd probably score just as well. So people ask the question why would you want to hit a club that is harder to hit? Because to me it's not harder because I hit it in the center of the clubface, at the same place every time. I can control the spinn of the ball, thus I don't need help from the club to do so. That's the difference. If you can't control the ball, then the GI irons can help, if you can then you don't need them in the first place. I hope this helps, anyway it's just my perspective on the whole debate.

909D2 - 10.5º
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reg 588 56º White Ice Rossie Z Star Tour YELLOWSG3


Posted
Funny you should say that - shots around the green are easier to hit with blade type irons.

I still play my Macgregor MT Pros in gw and sw. I know they are easier around the green. However, I have to use them less around the green now that I switched to my G5's.

I think that we are off topic here and missing the point of the debate. I play AP2's and while they aren't blades, the have a relatively thin sole and topline. The point, after reading all of the posts, is that most people think that lower handicap players play the "players irons" because they help them. While this perception may be true the real truth is that lower handicap players have learned to control their swing, wichch is both the swing path and the clubface at impact. So while we are on topic saying that you can "work the ball" easier with a "players club" the point is that the better players have learned to control the slice/fade and hook/draw to their advantage. The OP asked why it's desirible to have a thiner profile. The reason is that if you control what the ball does in the air, you can use it to your advantage. If you cant then you need to eliminate the movement of the ball in the air all together. So basically better players don't want to eliminate the ability to move the ball in the air, while pepole who are learning and dont have a constant swing need to just hit it strait. That's what the club companies are getting at.

I bet that you can work the ball with GI irons.


Posted
I bet that you can work the ball with GI irons.

The OP was asking why people preferred them. I think that was clearly stated several times.

Many players honestly believe they can hit a compact iron more crisply and confidently more often, over the course of 18 holes. This is more than likely based on their own personal experience. Either way, since it's a just a game, choose whichever irons make you happiest.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
I think that we are off topic here and missing the point of the debate. I play AP2's and while they aren't blades, the have a relatively thin sole and topline. The point, after reading all of the posts, is that most people think that lower handicap players play the "players irons" because they help them. While this perception may be true the real truth is that lower handicap players have learned to control their swing, wichch is both the swing path and the clubface at impact. So while we are on topic saying that you can "work the ball" easier with a "players club" the point is that the better players have learned to control the slice/fade and hook/draw to their advantage. The OP asked why it's desirible to have a thiner profile. The reason is that if you control what the ball does in the air, you can use it to your advantage. If you cant then you need to eliminate the movement of the ball in the air all together. So basically better players don't want to eliminate the ability to move the ball in the air, while pepole who are learning and dont have a constant swing need to just hit it strait. That's what the club companies are getting at.

I do believe you made a good answer, but as someone who plays something a little bit in between I want to make my case for why I do. I do not hit the ball very far, my maximum seven iron carry is 140. I hit the ball very straight for my handicap, occasional pulls with irons and blocks with the driver. My iron height is average. My area of strength is chipping and putting. My most recent round I only hit 5 gir, 2 par 5s and 3 par 3s. I played those 5 holes 1 under. I had one other par, a lob wedge from 15-20 yards off the green to two feet. Unfortunately I played the other 12 13 over for a 83 on a par 71 course. I can hit my irons higher when I want to and lower when I need to. I don't work the ball left to right hardly at all and right to left a little bit more often. But when your average drive is only 215-220 with roll, I still have a lot of 170, 4hybrid to 3w, 195 into par 4 greens. Since I make my score putting and chipping the wide sole on a lot of clubs limits my options where I need them most. I like to use the blade edge for some shots, hinge my wrist and spin it for some, without hitting it up, and use a putting like shot for bump and runs. If I can improve my mental composure a little, and get over the bunker yips, I feel I am close to challenging single digits. I just need to play more often. My point is all mid handicaps are not the same. Some generate plenty of clubhead speed, and are wild. Some may hit the ball consistently but lack short game skills. One of my regular partners maybe a shot round better than I hits amazing giant rope hooks out of the trees I wouldn't even dream of trying, (he does spend a lot more time there than I do) but he just shook his head and said he couldn't believe my guts for the lob wedge shot I mentioned in the beginning. Leave some room for those who don't fit the usual suspects profile.

I do wonder if those who play bermuda regularly have an extra reason to pick a thinner sole club, wouldn't that be an advantage in bermuda rough?

1W Cleveland LauncherComp 10.5, 3W Touredge Exotics 15 deg.,FY Wilson 19.5 degree
4 and 5H, 6I-GW Callaway Razr, SW, LW Cleveland Cg-14, Putter Taylor Made Suzuka, Ball, Srixon XV Yellow


Posted
I think that we are off topic here and missing the point of the debate. I play AP2's and while they aren't blades, the have a relatively thin sole and topline. The point, after reading all of the posts, is that most people think that lower handicap players play the "players irons" because they help them. While this perception may be true the real truth is that lower handicap players have learned to control their swing, wichch is both the swing path and the clubface at impact. So while we are on topic saying that you can "work the ball" easier with a "players club" the point is that the better players have learned to control the slice/fade and hook/draw to their advantage. The OP asked why it's desirible to have a thiner profile. The reason is that if you control what the ball does in the air, you can use it to your advantage. If you cant then you need to eliminate the movement of the ball in the air all together. So basically better players don't want to eliminate the ability to move the ball in the air, while pepole who are learning and dont have a constant swing need to just hit it strait. That's what the club companies are getting at.

Ah, thank you, a real answer to the question!!


Posted
So it really comes down to aesthetic inspired confidence, not really performance then.

You wanted a "real answer"? I think there were plent given, just perhaps not the one you wanted - something to validate your equipment choices. Since it seems you're not really interested in a move to players irons, why do you care what irons other players use?

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
I think calvie7 summed it up nicely.

In the Bag: TaylorMade R11 TP - TaylorMade R7 TP TS - Cleveland Halo - TM TP 2009 3-PW - Vokey SM 52 - Vokey SM 60 - Rife Barbados CS - ProV1x 


On the Computer:  Analyzr Pro 
 


Posted
I think calvie7 summed it up nicely.

Complete agreement with that statement - but I'm just sayin'.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
haha... i know what you were getting at.

I think there are several threads of thought here. Part of my club selection is aesthetics. Try as I might, it's tough to look down on a thicker looking club, and I think that is a sentiment that has been misconstrued as golfers wanting to "man up" or be perceived as stronger players.

In the Bag: TaylorMade R11 TP - TaylorMade R7 TP TS - Cleveland Halo - TM TP 2009 3-PW - Vokey SM 52 - Vokey SM 60 - Rife Barbados CS - ProV1x 


On the Computer:  Analyzr Pro 
 


Posted
haha... i know what you were getting at.

And manning up just makes you look like more of a fool. I've seen plenty of hot shots come down to the range and blast away at their Mizuno blades, while a friend of mine who's over 70 swings his graphite shafted GI shovels, and smashes the ball right on the center of the face every time, and can destroy them from any set of tees.

We all need to play what's best for us. I got my irons based on a recommendation from a fitter. He showed me which clubs would be best for me based on my ballstriking, flight, and other characteristics, specifically MP-67, CG-7 Tour, S59, TA-2, etc. He recommended stiff steel shafts too. I called him and asked him about the Nikes, and he agreed. So I took them back to him, and we agreed on 2° up. Now, when I walked in there, I was playing old Tight Lies clubs, regular flex steel, big huge shovel clubheads. I had played them because the last time I got a professional opinion, I was a 30+ handicap. I got the clubs that fit me, and they did their job. Now, I use the clubs that do the job. When I hit the ball so high that the fitter tells me I need blades, I'll get them, but no sooner.

Posted
And manning up just makes you look like more of a fool. I've seen plenty of hot shots come down to the range and blast away at their Mizuno blades, while a friend of mine who's over 70 swings his graphite shafted GI shovels, and smashes the ball right on the center of the face every time, and can destroy them from any set of tees.

I got a professional opinion too. I was asking the titleist fitter if I should go with ap1's instead of ap2's and based off my hitting etc he told me the ap2 would be great, we seem to have alot of know it alls in this thread


Posted
And manning up just makes you look like more of a fool. I've seen plenty of hot shots come down to the range and blast away at their Mizuno blades, while a friend of mine who's over 70 swings his graphite shafted GI shovels, and smashes the ball right on the center of the face every time, and can destroy them from any set of tees.

Look like more of a fool?... I think you misread my post. I'm all for playing the clubs that best benefit your game, and I agree, a ton of guys play clubs that aren't helping them the most.

I don't play blades to "man up." I play blades because they offer the look, feel and control that I prefer.

In the Bag: TaylorMade R11 TP - TaylorMade R7 TP TS - Cleveland Halo - TM TP 2009 3-PW - Vokey SM 52 - Vokey SM 60 - Rife Barbados CS - ProV1x 


On the Computer:  Analyzr Pro 
 


Posted
Look like more of a fool?... I think you misread my post. I'm all for playing the clubs that best benefit your game, and I agree, a ton of guys play clubs that aren't helping them the most.

No, no, I was meaning to quote the last part of your post. I agree with you, and for you, blades are a probably your best fit. I meant that many golfers do try to "man up" and play extremely unwieldy clubs because they seem cooler, even though the tour pros use hybrids and cavity backs. I see a lot of 15 handicaps with blades and 2 irons, and they never hit them, because they can't. All the 2 and 3 irons in these bags are silver, pure, with no scratches. That's just crazy. Why carry a club you can't hit?

If you carry 3 hybrids, a 3, 4, and 5, who cares? I don't carry one for one good reason; I don't hit them well. The instant I can find one that is as good or better than my long irons, I'm getting it. I love the idea of having a hybrid anyway, and I'm going to probably get a Fli-Hi or some other 2h soon.

Note: This thread is 5708 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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