36+ handicapper ball

[Morocco Mako]

The one bit of advice I have is use a ball with a urethane cover.

If you should happen to hit the green with a mid or short iron, you stand a better chance of having the ball stay on the green (due to the extra backspin) instead of rolling off the far side.

[turtleback]

The one bit of advice I have is use a ball with a urethane cover.

If you should happen to hit the green with a mid or short iron, you stand a better chance of having the ball stay on the green (due to the extra backspin) instead of rolling off the far side.

A 36 h-capper?  That sounds like a complete waste of money to me.  A 36 should be buying and using the cheapest possible balls unless he wants to buy better balls for ego purpose.  On the list of the top 10 things a 36 needs to do to get better, buying better performing golf balls is like number 18,

[Morocco Mako]

A 36 h-capper?  That sounds like a complete waste of money to me.  A 36 should be buying and using the cheapest possible balls unless he wants to buy better balls for ego purpose.  On the list of the top 10 things a 36 needs to do to get better, buying better performing golf balls is like number 18,

There are cheap urethane covered balls.

The Bridgestone e5 has a urethane cover.

Used balls with a urethane cover (particularly if you don't buy the highest grade) can be had cheaply.

Learning to hit the green from short distances (say 50 yards in) is something even a 36 handicap can become decent at. Then they can move on to hitting the green from longer distances (say 100 yards in) consistently.

But, that won't do you much good if the ball doesn't stay on the green when you hit it. The advantage of a urethane covered ball is it will help the ball stop on the green.

[bste]

A 36 h-capper?  That sounds like a complete waste of money to me.  A 36 should be buying and using the cheapest possible balls unless he wants to buy better balls for ego purpose.  On the list of the top 10 things a 36 needs to do to get better, buying better performing golf balls is like number 18,

Agree completely, getting lessons is a top priority.

Precept laddies,very inexpensive, doesn't hurt as bad losing one of them.

[Morocco Mako]

Consider this hypothetical high-handicapper par-3:

1) Tee shot misses the green (short, long , left, or right), but let's say it's within 50 yards of green.

2) Lob shot hits green, bounces a few times, then rolls off far edge of the green into a sand trap.

3) Sand shot hits green and rolls off far edge into grass.

4) Short chip lands on green and stops.

5) Long putt

6) Short putt

7) Short putt

What single equipment change could have lowered his score? Perhaps a ball more likely to hold the green on short 2 or 3?

The question at hand is "high handicapper balls," not "should high handicappers take lessons?"

BTW, I'm not advocating spending tons of money on balls. If you think ALL urethane balls are expensive, you haven't looked around enough. Lost golf balls has, for example, used TM RBZ urethane for $7.99 a dozen (66 cents each).

[bste]

Consider this hypothetical high-handicapper par-3:

1) Tee shot misses the green (short, long , left, or right), but let's say it's within 50 yards of green.

2) Lob shot hits green, bounces a few times, then rolls off far edge of the green into a sand trap.

3) Sand shot hits green and rolls off far edge into grass.

4) Short chip lands on green and stops.

5) Long putt

6) Short putt

7) Short putt

What single equipment change could have lowered his score? Perhaps a ball more likely to hold the green on short 2 or 3?

The question at hand is "high handicapper balls," not "should high handicappers take lessons?"

BTW, I'm not advocating spending tons of money on balls. If you think ALL urethane balls are expensive, you haven't looked around enough. Lost golf balls has, for example, used TM RBZ urethane for $7.99 a dozen (66 cents each).

Obviously a bump and run wouldn't help?

[Morocco Mako]

Obviously a bump and run wouldn't help?

On which number shot? Not on #2 or #3.

[turtleback]

Consider this hypothetical high-handicapper par-3:

1) Tee shot misses the green (short, long , left, or right), but let's say it's within 50 yards of green.

2) Lob shot hits green, bounces a few times, then rolls off far edge of the green into a sand trap.

3) Sand shot hits green and rolls off far edge into grass.

4) Short chip lands on green and stops.

5) Long putt

6) Short putt

7) Short putt

What single equipment change could have lowered his score? Perhaps a ball more likely to hold the green on short 2 or 3?

The question at hand is "high handicapper balls," not "should high handicappers take lessons?"

BTW, I'm not advocating spending tons of money on balls. If you think ALL urethane balls are expensive, you haven't looked around enough. Lost golf balls has, for example, used TM RBZ urethane for $7.99 a dozen (66 cents each).

Any 36-capper playing lob shots needs to spend his money on a psychiatrist not urethane covered golf balls, IMO.  And without proper technique and ball strike a urethane ball will do nothing to keep those balls on the green anyway because the 36-capper is probably not getting any spin (and generally lob shots rely on height more than spin for stopping power - and urethane won't get him extra height).

Telling a 36-capper he needs a urethane ball is like telling him he needs forged irons.  As I already said, item #18 on the 10 most important things to improve.

[vangator]

Using rock hard balls is the quickest way I can think of to get to a 36+ handicap. :-) I agree with both sides of the argument in the last few posts. I think the highest priority for a 36 handicap is to start striking the ball better and course management. As soon as they start making shots where the ball becomes a detriment, getting a soft cover (urethane) ball will help them. Don't buy them new. I can pick up some grade A used balls for $10 a dozen at our local flea market. I can't tell them from new. They're in better shape than most of my balls since I hardly ever lose a ball. I have hundreds of pro quality balls in my drawers (not my pants) and garage. I find several per round. I picked up about 150 ProV1, Callaway, Nike, Bridgestone pro line balls at my church's rummage sale for $1 per dozen. Plus, if you're playing a round with friends with no money on the line, hit a rock off the tee on holes where you might lose a ball or from the fairway on shots where you may lose a ball. Replace the rock ball with a soft ball for approach shots. use a really good ball when you won't lose it. Use a urethane "water" ball when you might. It's cheating, but I recommend it for my son-in-laws and friends too. Nothing is worse than losing a new $4+ golf ball. I have a new box of Volvik Vista iV I bought a couple of months ago for $45. Still have the whole box. I play half the holes with the Volvik's and the other half I play with new Pro V1's or Bridgestones I don't mind losing. I really like the Maxfli u6 I use as "water" balls. Funny thing is I just don't lose those either. But I know if I tee off with one of my good balls, it will be a magnet for a lake or trees. :-)

[Lihu]

Using rock hard balls is the quickest way I can think of to get to a 36+ handicap.

I agree with both sides of the argument in the last few posts. I think the highest priority for a 36 handicap is to start striking the ball better and course management. As soon as they start making shots where the ball becomes a detriment, getting a soft cover (urethane) ball will help them. Don't buy them new. I can pick up some grade A used balls for $10 a dozen at our local flea market. I can't tell them from new. They're in better shape than most of my balls since I hardly ever lose a ball. I have hundreds of pro quality balls in my drawers (not my pants) and garage. I find several per round.

I picked up about 150 ProV1, Callaway, Nike, Bridgestone pro line balls at my church's rummage sale for $1 per dozen.

Plus, if you're playing a round with friends with no money on the line, hit a rock off the tee on holes where you might lose a ball or from the fairway on shots where you may lose a ball. Replace the rock ball with a soft ball for approach shots. use a really good ball when you won't lose it. Use a urethane "water" ball when you might. It's cheating, but I recommend it for my son-in-laws and friends too.

Nothing is worse than losing a new $4+ golf ball. I have a new box of Volvik Vista iV I bought a couple of months ago for $45. Still have the whole box. I play half the holes with the Volvik's and the other half I play with new Pro V1's or Bridgestones I don't mind losing. I really like the Maxfli u6 I use as "water" balls. Funny thing is I just don't lose those either. But I know if I tee off with one of my good balls, it will be a magnet for a lake or trees.

LOL, but so true.

Some of the the cheaper balls are worse than some range balls. They don't last as long. If you are afraid of losing a lot of balls, buy the shag bags with used better quality golf balls. I put the remainder of my $8/dozen Snake Eyes balls to use in my hitting cage, and some of them already cracked after a month.

[acerimusdux]

Having been there not long ago, I still think the best choice for a 36 cap is the brand new red sack of 2 dozen Wilson "Extra Distance" for $10 at Wal-Mart.

Yes you can find used urethane balls for a similar price, but you won't get quite the same consistency as buying new balls, and you only get much benefit form the urethane on those lower spinny chips that a 36 cap isn't often hitting anyway.  And no, better golfers won't like these balls much because they don't hold greens well, but the 36 cap is better off learning first to hit target and learning to get the ball in the air to hold the green.

But maybe I liked them in part because I didn't have much trouble getting the ball in the air. Someone who normally hits lower shots might have a different opinion.

[Lihu]

Having been there not long ago, I still think the best choice for a 36 cap is the brand new red sack of 2 dozen Wilson "Extra Distance" for $10 at Wal-Mart.

Yes you can find used urethane balls for a similar price, but you won't get quite the same consistency as buying new balls, and you only get much benefit form the urethane on those lower spinny chips that a 36 cap isn't often hitting anyway.  And no, better golfers won't like these balls much because they don't hold greens well, but the 36 cap is better off learning first to hit target and learning to get the ball in the air to hold the green.

But maybe I liked them in part because I didn't have much trouble getting the ball in the air. Someone who normally hits lower shots might have a different opinion.

That's really cheap. How do these balls hold up, wear-wise that is?

[acerimusdux]

That's really cheap. How do these balls hold up, wear-wise that is?

Durability seemed fine, though I was losing them frequently enough this wasn't a major concern for me. It seems to me the easiest way to get to a 36+ cap is to hit lots of balls in the woods, the water, etc.

I will say though that they seemed almost indisitiguishable from some of the low end boxed dozens of Wilson balls, like the Titanium or Ultra 500 series, which cost twice as much per ball. All you are paying for with those is fancier boxed packaging. And definitely a nicer ball than the Wilson F.L.I.  Basically, you need to step up to the "Wilson Staff" balls, like the Duo, Elite 50, or ZIP, to do any better than these in Wilsons.

[Lihu]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lihu

That's really cheap. How do these balls hold up, wear-wise that is?

Durability seemed fine, though I was losing them frequently enough this wasn't a major concern for me. It seems to me the easiest way to get to a 36+ cap is to hit lots of balls in the woods, the water, etc.

I will say though that they seemed almost indisitiguishable from some of the low end boxed dozens of Wilson balls, like the Titanium or Ultra 500 series, which cost twice as much per ball. All you are paying for with those is fancier boxed packaging. And definitely a nicer ball than the Wilson F.L.I.  Basically, you need to step up to the "Wilson Staff" balls, like the Duo, Elite 50, or ZIP, to do any better than these in Wilsons.

I found three Wilson Bimetal balls on the course yesterday. I put away my Titleist balls and started using these balls. One of them got taken by a golfer visiting my fairway after I had just hit all three of them down the fairway on a longer par 5. They fly pretty well, and seem to even stick greens reasonably even though they do not have the soft cover of the pro-V1/x balls.

These balls will stay on my bag until I lose them or they go dead. I also found a bunch of older Nike balls and one really worn out Titleist DT-Carry, which will go into my hitting cage.

What's funny is that they were right on the fringe of the rough and the trees. Pretty easy to spot.

[turtleback]

That's really cheap. How do these balls hold up, wear-wise that is?

A 36-cap is likely to lose them long before durability becomes an issue.

[rebelrob]

When i started playing, up until I got to the point where I had a hc of around the 30 mark, I just used any balls I had found that were in reasonable condition. I did purchase a few 'lake' balls from the pro shop for about 50p (yes I'm from England, and its equivalent to about 70 cents), but generally tried to use the same balls ie top flight or srixon, but I wasn't taking the game THAT seriously at the time.

I would suggest using the same ball to remove variables and just to get used to the feel is a good idea. Anything half decent will be good enough for now. Unless you're not too bothered about losing balls and can afford too, then go for the pro v1/x if you want to. Worst case if they're not for you just don't buy any more after your first dozen...

[vangator]

I mentioned this ball in a similar thread. The Polara.

[turtleback]

I would suggest using the same ball to remove variables and just to get used to the feel is a good idea. Anything half decent will be good enough for now. Unless you're not too bothered about losing balls and can afford too, then go for the pro v1/x if you want to. Worst case if they're not for you just don't buy any more after your first dozen...

This is horrendous advice, IMO.  A $50 dollar ball for someone who shoots 110+ regularly?  Whose inability to generate the necessary swing speed means they will benefit neither from its distance nor its spin?.  And they probably lose at least a sleeve a round?  Did I miss the part where the OP said he was independently wealthy?  Even the notion of using the same ball to eliminate variables is a little ludicrous for a player whose whole game is full of variables to the extent that eliminating any one of them is going to be of no effect.  And eliminating that one variable that probably has less effect than all of those other variables that need to get fixed at the swing level.  Which is where the OPs attention should be aimed, not in worrying about what ball to play.

I mentioned this ball in a similar thread. The Polara.

When you mention them you should also mention that they are illegal under USGA rules.