Question about golf club length

[tpcollins]

Newbie here - I'm puzzled about why irons with graphite shafts average a 1/2" longer each than steel shafted shafts, other than to gain distance. I would assume the manufactures use the same "head" with the same lie for each. Technically with a graphite shafted iron, one would have to stand further from the ball with the toe up versus an steel shafted shaft where you would stand closer with the toe pointed lower.

I seem to hit my irons better when choking down on the grip allowing me to stand closer to the ball. I'm 5'9" with a 33 1/2" wrist to floor measurement and saw a chart where my clubs should be a 1/4" shorter than "normal". I have a reasonable swing but sometimes I get too much "arm and club" between me and the ball and hit a lot of fat shots. I play Cobra S9 irons with R graphite shafts and when I do hit them, I'm a 1/2 club longer than any other set that I've had.

I'm about ready to regrip the irons and was wondering how much damage I would do if I trim the shafts about a 1/2" each? I can live with a shorter distance for my irons if I can hit them cleaner every time. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Mr. Desmond]

Balance/swingweight

[Mr. Desmond]

Originally Posted by Mr. Desmond

Balance/swingweight

Was on the mobile app above, let's go further.

It depends on the weight/balance of the graphite shaft. If they are similar to the stock steel shaft (unlikely) and/or the weight/balance is towards the tip, the length may be/can be the same.

[tpcollins]

I just went thru my Cobra S9 graphite set and here's the following swingweight info:

4 - 6 irons = D1,

7 - PW     = D2

AW          = D3

In each case, the balance point was exactly .25" shorter from the 4 iron to the PW.

I assume if I gnaw off 1/2" off each club, the swing weight should increase - but will it do so within an acceptable range or not? Thanks.

[WUTiger]

If you trim 1/2" off a golf shaft, it lightens the swingweight by 3 units. (D3 becomes D0).

One way to retain the original swingweight would be to install a lighter grip. A good clubfitter can help you calculate what weight grip you would need.

Or, you could always put lead tap on the clubhead.

[tpcollins]

Originally Posted by WUTiger

If you trim 1/2" off a golf shaft, it lightens the swingweight by 3 units. (D3 becomes D0).

One way to retain the original swingweight would be to install a lighter grip. A good clubfitter can help you calculate what weight grip you would need.

Or, you could always put lead tap on the clubhead.

3 units seems a bit alarming - yipe. That said, I have a Cobra driver that has a "senior flex" Bassara shaft in it that I can pound the heck out of it. it's 44 1/2" long with a C4 swing weight. I bought another used Cobra driver with the same shaft (earlier model) as I was going to pull the shaft for another project but kept it and trimmed the shaft 1" down to 43 1/2". I just checked it's swing weight at a B7. But last week I was able to hit the 1" shorter B7 driver straighter and just as long as the regular length C4 driver.

I seem to hit my irons better if I choke down on them (but I'm at a smaller diameter of the grip), so between the two wouldn't proper club length be of more importance than swing weight? If I trim the shafts 1/2", I want to do it right so I would probably try the weighted "paste" or whatever it's called that goes down inside the shaft. Thanks for the help.

[MS256]

Like the other guys said if you take a half inch off of the shaft you will have to add six grams of weight to the head and/or use a lighter grip or a combination IF you want the same swing weight and you are happy with that swing weight.

Very possible that you could get enough benefit out of a proper length for you that you would gain more than you would lose by the swing weight not being ideal but getting both correct would be best. You can probably get the lengths and swing weights correct for your swing by doing it yourself but a really good club fitter can probably get everything correct much easier (and maybe without the trial and error).

BTW. Don't set your lie angles based on what the club looks like at address. Toe up or down at address makes no difference at all. Impact will likely be different than address because of toe down effect and/or you hands being higher at impact than address.

Check with tape on the bottom of the club on a lie board and also do a test on a mat or grass where you put a vertical line on the ball with a marker and make sure the line that transfers to the club face is also vertical.

[Mr. Desmond]

If you look at the specs of your irons, Cobra S9 irons, they are today's standard length -  a 38 inch 5i. The Graphite Shaft is 55g!! 55g!

That means the head is going to be heavier than the S9 head for a steel shaft for the graphite shafted club to get to a decent swing weight.

I can't tell but how old are you and how is your strength?

The reason I ask is that typically a lite shaft with a very light swingweight doesn't usually work for most people, but it seems to work for you in your woods.

Also, my opinion, from talking with club makers, on getting a lighter grip to add to the swingweight is that it has no effect on performance.

I don't know what to tell you other than 37.5 may be your correct length - don't know if someone has statically or dynamically fit you - but you can try cutting down one iron to see if it works. The problem is that if it doesn't work, you've cut an iron. You can put in an extension for a fix...

But you're not swinging much weight if you go to a shorter length - 55g shaft, 37.5 inch 5i.... Have you demoed other clubs in a 75g graphite shaft or a lite steel shaft at 95g? Something possibly in the Mizuno line just to see the effect - I think Mizuno's standard specs are more traditional (shorter 5i).

[WUTiger]

Originally Posted by Mr. Desmond

... The reason I ask is that typically a lite shaft with a very light swingweight doesn't usually work for most people, but it seems to work for you in your woods.

Also, my opinion, from talking with club makers, on getting a lighter grip to add to the swingweight is that it has no effect on performance. ...

TP,

You might read up on Sergio Garcia and his club preferences. The TV announcers said during Players that Sergio had C7 swingweight on some of his woods. Can't remember details on how he got there, but you might look it up.

Some golfers use counterweighting , (weight plugs in butt of shaft, or weighted Boccieri grips). Counterweighting gurus claim this helps restore feel in clubs with really lightweight shafts. Counterweight golfers end up with C-range swingweights, but reports suggest they don't notice the lower swingweight very much.

Whatever works!

[Mr. Desmond]

Originally Posted by WUTiger

TP,

You might read up on Sergio Garcia and his club preferences. The TV announcers said during Players that Sergio had C7 swingweight on some of his woods. Can't remember details on how he got there, but you might look it up.

Some golfers use counterweighting, (weight plugs in butt of shaft, or weighted Boccieri grips). Counterweighting gurus claim this helps restore feel in clubs with really lightweight shafts. Counterweight golfers end up with C-range swingweights, but reports suggest they don't notice the lower swingweight very much.

Whatever works!

I think the preferred balance of the club is unique to all golfers -- most of us fall in a range of D1-D3 in irons but some like C7, some like D8. Ping once made their stock irons at C8.

Also, you've got to balance swingweight with the overall weight of the club. An iron with D3 may result in horrid performance to most golfers if coupled with a 55g shaft. For others, it may work. Most guys going to graphite prefer 80g and D2-D3, while pros and bigger, stronger guys like 110g graphite and a swingweight in a similar range D2-D4.

Gotta find what works for you.

[tpcollins]

Thanks Mr Desmond. I'm 66 but still hit my 7 iron about 155 yards. In fact these Cobra S9 irons play about a 1/2 club longer than most other irons I've owned. I saw online where my 5' 9" height and 33 1/2" wrist to floor dimension indicates I'm 1/4" under "standard" length. On a lie board I've always hit the normal black dot or the 1 degree up blue dot (Ping irons). I've always suffered from hitting clubs fat with my irons - I've been known to take a divot the size of a beaver pelt on occasions so that's why I'm leaning to trimming 1/2" off my irons.

If I use the tungsten powder and cork, is there a difference in cork size for graphite and steel shafts? Thanks.

[Mr. Desmond]

My thoughts are that if the club is playing at D2 and you trim 1/2 inch and afterwards it is approximately C8 then you may like the club at that length and balance. I would try one club forgetting all the Tunston power and crap, and just grip. Play it and see if you like it.

[tpcollins]

Thanks Desmond, I'll give one iron the treatment. I was able to order some Golf Pride Tour Velvet Lite grips (can't remember how much lighter they are) so maybe I can put a little swingweight back in.

[Mr. Desmond]

Grips don't make a dynamic difference since your hands are placed on the club around the grip Tour Velvets are pretty skinny so be sure they fit your hands. You may have to use a couple of wraps to fit your hands

[tpcollins]

UPDATE - I pulled the grip off my 4 iron today and the entire factory adhesive tape stayed intact. So I trimmed exactly a 1/2" off the butt, reinstalled the same grip, lined up the marks and let it set. I rechecked the swing weight and found the balance point mark was on the same spot on the shaft as before I trimmed it - hmm. But naturally the distance was 1/2" shorter than before. Prior to trimming the swing weight was a D1 and just shy of the 1/2 mark between D1 & D2.  After trimming I'm at a D0 swing weight and just shy of the halfway mark of the D1. So I only lost one swing weight point trimming a 1/2" on my 4 iron.

When my Tour Velvet Lite grips arrive, I'll throw one on it and recheck it. I might be in better shape than I thought. Thanks.