Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
brianb9999

wedge distance consistency

10 posts in this topic

Hello Sandtrap,

I have been working on hitting my wedges lately (54* sw and 60* lw) in an effort to build some consistency in my 100 yd and less game. I have practiced various shots off of fairway and rough, and I have noticed I hit my sand wedge with much more consistency in terms of loft and distance, generally about 70-80 yards. However, I can't seem to hit my lob wedge quite as well...when struck properly, it probably travels about 40-50 yards, but I often think I hesitate on my downswing for fear of blading the ball and sending it shooting past the green. When I feel that hesitation, the clubhead speed slows down and it travels woefully short (blading happens occasionally with my sand wedge as well, but less frequently). The other issue I have is that my sand wedge travels at best 70-80 yards, and I hit my pitching wedge probably about 110. I often find myself in between clubs at a critical juncture and end up doing a 3/4 PW swing, but I am less consistent when not executing a full swing. Would it be worth it to invest in a 50ish degree gap wedge and play around with it for awhile? I already carry 14 clubs when I play: 1,3,5 wood, 3-9 iron, PW, SW, LW (and I am stubborn about giving up those low irons or changing to a 56* SW since I love my current PING iwedge oh so much). I only play casually so I don't think anyone would care if I carried an extra just to try out some different shots.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Brian

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Want to get rid of this advertisement? Sign up (or log in) today! It's free!

Typical I tend to avoid hitting a full lob wedge unless its necessary. I'd much rather hit a 3/4 sand as I feel there is more control. I always carry 4 wedges in my bag (46, 52, 56 and 60). Have a go with a 50/52.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brian,

A gap wedge is something I would recommend.  You will be able to take full swings and fill the gap.

For the LW, I use a 58.  I will preset more weight at set up on my left leg than with other irons, still keeping my knees bent the same.  The swing is not as hard, but I focus on making good contact.  The feet are also set closer together, which helps the weight shift to the left side.  I do the same with my 54 wedge.

You can vary height and distance with ball position.  Moving it back a bit (say 1/2 ball width) with produce lower flight with more spin.

Practice with half or three quarter swing first.  Focus on steady head and weight shift to your left side on the downswing.  After you have that down, move to to a full swing.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Well I found a used 51* golfsmith wedge for $15 so I think I will play around with that a bit and maybe just forgo the lob wedge for now (I'm playing 18 today and tomorrow). I've had to work on my full swing so much earlier this year, but now I finally have the luxury to get back to working on the short game, so I'll keep trying all different kinds of shots with the wedges. Just curious, for those that carry 4 wedges, do you use a hybrid to replace both 5w and 3i? I have never owned one because I never felt I could hit one well, but I probably could now. I usually use my 5w for long rough shots but feel at a loss when I'm in the 170-200 range because I just can't get my low irons airborne out of the rough.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Replace the 60* wedge with a chipper.  I'm dead serious.  It's not as "cool" as carrying a lob wedge that you can't hit consistently, but your scores will drop dramatically.

I carry 2 hybrids in place of 3 and 4 irons.

Welcome to the forum!

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I find the 58 is DRAMATICALLY easier to hit than the 60.      Can't explain it, but the 58 can be opened up just like the 60 for the Phil-esque ultra flops & seems just as easy as the 56 for full shots.    I like a 45, 50, 52 (bent to 53)  & 58 combo

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What loft is your pw?? Sounds like a gw would be usefull! My pw is 45* & my sw is 56* so I have a 50*gw to fill the space! Then I bought a 62* lw for short flops over bunkers/hazards to the green! Sometimes it works very well and I don't have to open the face, occasionally ill skull it, but daren't use the lw on full shots anymore as its hard to gauge distance with it, but nothing a few hours practise won't cure when I find the time!
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Originally Posted by brianb9999

Hello Sandtrap,

I have been working on hitting my wedges lately (54* sw and 60* lw) in an effort to build some consistency in my 100 yd and less game. I have practiced various shots off of fairway and rough, and I have noticed I hit my sand wedge with much more consistency in terms of loft and distance, generally about 70-80 yards. However, I can't seem to hit my lob wedge quite as well...when struck properly, it probably travels about 40-50 yards, but I often think I hesitate on my downswing for fear of blading the ball and sending it shooting past the green. When I feel that hesitation, the clubhead speed slows down and it travels woefully short (blading happens occasionally with my sand wedge as well, but less frequently). The other issue I have is that my sand wedge travels at best 70-80 yards, and I hit my pitching wedge probably about 110. I often find myself in between clubs at a critical juncture and end up doing a 3/4 PW swing, but I am less consistent when not executing a full swing. Would it be worth it to invest in a 50ish degree gap wedge and play around with it for awhile? I already carry 14 clubs when I play: 1,3,5 wood, 3-9 iron, PW, SW, LW (and I am stubborn about giving up those low irons or changing to a 56* SW since I love my current PING iwedge oh so much). I only play casually so I don't think anyone would care if I carried an extra just to try out some different shots.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Brian

I found the higher the loft the more certain you need to get your hands ahead of the ball at impact. There's so much loft, and flipping at the ball will just kill the distance. If your having issues hitting thin shots, i recommend presetting your weight forward and trying to keep it there. Keep more pressure on your front leg, maintain more flex there in the knee.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Originally Posted by saevel25

I found the higher the loft the more certain you need to get your hands ahead of the ball at impact. There's so much loft, and flipping at the ball will just kill the distance. If your having issues hitting thin shots, i recommend presetting your weight forward and trying to keep it there. Keep more pressure on your front leg, maintain more flex there in the knee.

truer words were never spoken.    Keeping the hands forward with the 60 is paramount ...

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Originally Posted by inthehole

truer words were never spoken.    Keeping the hands forward with the 60 is paramount ...

Unless if your hitting pitch shots, then you can get away with using the bounce more, but full wedge shots, its a bit different.

I found that the bounce effects the shot as well. i am wondering if its just better not to hit full wedge shots, like a normal iron shot, if the grind on the club is not made for that type of shot. I am thinking of sticking with some more full grinds for full shots, then just not hitting full iron shots with wedges i will get for pitching. They might overlap a bit. Like get two 52's. But hey, what ever works. I just find that the grind for a 56 allows the club to slide under the ball way to easily on full iron shots.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • 2016 TST Partners

    GAME Golf
    PING Golf
    Lowest Score Wins
  • Posts

    • This is a fundamental that is that ruins so many golf swings before they start. Let's look at why. Bending at the waist is physically easier - it takes less work from your legs to bend over and your body naturally avoids work.  The big problem is that you are out of balance by the time you reach the top of your backswing and worse... Your upper body weight is not over your legs which means a ground up swing is dead. Through your transition your weight needs to be firmly planted over your loaded legs so 1) you can linger in your transition in balance until your forward weight shift happens and 2) So that your lower legs are in a position of leverage to get your weight moving and to have enough spring to keep pushing until your weight has made it all the way to your left foot.  So, if you don't love your swing check for this setup flaw. So, many people who swing over the top don't realize they had no chance way back from their setup. 
    • Good topic. I voted breaking 80 is harder. Obviously the two are connected but if push came to shove I think more golfers could learn how to avoid making doubles than be taught or acquire the skills to break 80. Breaking 80 for many golfers would mean significantly raising the level of their games, while not making a double is more about avoiding the big miss and game planning/course management. More specific to the OP's question relating to a golfers that shoots in the low 80's and is trying to break through, it could be one or other, most likely a combo of both. For myself, like @The Recreational Golfer I've had more rounds in the 70's than double bogey free rounds so could you say it's "easier" for me to shoot in the 70's than avoid making a double? Yes and no, depends on how you look at it. Even though I messed up on one or two individual holes I had to play fairly solid golf the other 16/17 holes to break 80, IMO that's more difficult than avoiding making a double. Even on a round where I didn't make a double I had to perform at a consistent level for 18 holes to break 80. If you told me I had to play 10 rounds where I had to break 80 and 10 rounds where I couldn't make a double, I think the latter would be easier for me. 
    • Good to hear. An observation for you... When you start getting your lower body into it guess what?  You start doing work!  And that takes fitness.  Some people have an illusion of an effortless golf swing. But in reality, it's effortless for your wrists but more work for your legs and core.  So, keep is mind as you go from hitter to swinger your fitness, core, and lower body strength demands go up. 
    • I'll answer your question with another question: If you drop the 3H, what would you hit for a 215 yard shot, or even a 210 or 205 yard shot? Are you comfortable gripping down on your 4-wood to cut distance off of it by that much? I personally don't see much issue with keeping the 3H in the bag since it isn't actually hurting anything. You say the other alternative is to drop the 4-wood, but why do you feel that you must drop anything at all? It's okay to have a 10 yard gap. If it really concerns you, though, I would think that the best way to go would be to swap from a 4-wood to a 3-wood. This would increase the gap between your 3H and the next longer club without affecting the gap between the 3 and 4 hybrid, which seems to be a number you like better for a gap. I'm just a little confused why you'd drop down to 13 clubs if the hybrid isn't costing you strokes. I know I find hybrids easier to hit than a wood that I'm trying to hit shorter than usual. I absolutely hate to hit a 3/4 3-wood to cover the cap between a full 3-wood and my 3-iron, but the number for a 3/4 3-wood is such a rare distance that I'd much rather have consistent gaps up through a 3-iron than a big jump from a 4i to a 3H. In my case a 3H would hurt my game, but it doesn't seem like yours is doing you any harm and could be protecting you from an awkward 4 wood shot.
    • This might not be the most helpful for balls and gloves (though I do see golf ball deals pop up at least once a week), but golfwrx's classified section is a great place to get deals on a lot of stuff. I got my AD-DI shaft there for $130, along with my KBS shafts from 3-LW for another $150 for the set. The AD-DI was used for a week (didn't have a mark) and the KBS shafts clearly only ever had a grip installed on the 7-iron. Good deals there, at least from what I've found, but mostly on clubs and shafts (though they do have golf balls in their classifieds every so often).  The nice part about that is they also have a WTB forum, where you post what you want and people come to you. That's actually what I did for the iron shafts. I posted about what I wanted and I had about 7 responses to choose from within 24 hours, so it's pretty active. For golf balls other than ProV1's that would be your best bet for finding them.
  • TST Blog Entries

  • Images

  • Today's Birthdays

  • Blog Entries