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Posted

The only way I ever consistently hit my 2 iron (which was back in the early 90's btw), was to use regular shafts and swing easy on it (like I was hitting a punch shot, but with a full swing).  I would imagine I'm hitting a 5 wood (which I could hit very consistently and also had a regular shaft).


Posted

You hit it the same way you hit your 3-iron.

FWIW, I play with predominantly good golfers, down to scratch. I don't know a single person who still carries a 2 iron. Most have traded it for a 4th wedge.....


Tom Wishon calls this the "vanishing loft disease".  Club manufacturers have for some time been reducing the loft of their irons so punters can hit them further, thus making the 1,2, and 3 irons redundant and necessitating the use of gap wedges. AS he sagely points out, this does nobody any good, but all manufacturers have fallen into line, because a it is not a very good sales pitch to say "buy our irons, they go less far than our competitors' clubs"!!!!

I use an old seat of forged blade irons, with lofts standard in the 70s and have no difficulty in hitting the 1 and 2 irons.

Wishon has written a superb book, which should be standard reading for all golfers "The New Search For The Perfect Golf Club", and in which he quotes iron lofts thus:-

Club                    1960s-70s             2010+

1                              17degrees           N/A

2                               20  "                    N/A

3                               24  "                    19-21 degrees

4                               28  "                     22-24   "

5                               32  "                     24-27   "

6                               36  "                     27-31   "

7                               40   "                    31-35   "

8                               44   "                    35-40   "

9                                48  "                    40-44   "

PW                             52  "                    44-48  "

GapW                       N/A                       48-52  "

SW                             56  "                    54-56  "

So, when you hear that some pro hit his 7 iron 200 yards, he actually hit his 31 degree iron 200 yards, in old money a 5 iron!!!

No wonder folk imagine the current pros are longer than their predecessors !   I bet none of them could hit the ball as far as Leopoldo Ruiz or George Bayer or Sam Snead hit it in the past.


Posted

my RBZ 3 iron is 18°, which is actually a 2 iron by traditional standards.       THe only advice I can give the OP, is to swing it easy .     Let the club do the work - nothing good comes of it when I try to swing it hard.     When I catch it right with a smooth swing, it always amazes me how much distance I get ...

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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  • 3 months later...
Posted

Balance................ on an anvil, use a big hammer, then hit it!

Hybrid sir hybrid ......................

My buddy who is 55 and grew up with 2,3 and 4 irons, now has a hybrid,scratch golfer. :dance:


Posted

Here is the secret to hitting a 2 iron.  Buy a rescue wood, hybrid, 4 wood or whatever you want to call it!  OR, reshaft the 2 with a softer shaft with a lower kick point, maybe a graphite shaft. Nicklaus used to do that.  He would have his scoring clubs with as stiff  of a shaft as he could manage for accuracy, his mid irons with a shaft he normally used and his long irons with a softer shaft to get height and distance but he didn't expect pin point accuracy like on his scoring irons or even his mid irons.  I've done that and it works.  thanks


Posted

I''m gonna put my old 'super senior' flex shaft on a three wood and give it a twirl.  Might be fun.


Posted
Hit it with a hammer and toss it in the trash. :) I haven't hit one in years. It's great for punching from underneath trees.

Driver.......Ping K15 9.5* stiff 3 wood.....Ping K15 16* stiff 5 wood.....Ping K15 19* stiff 4 Hybrid...Cleveland Gliderail 23* stiff 5 - PW......Pinhawk SL GW...........Tommy Armour 52* SW...........Tommy Armour 56* LW...........Tommy Armour 60* FW...........Diamond Tour 68* Putter.......Golfsmith Dyna Mite Ball..........Volvik Vista iV Green Bag..........Bennington Quiet Organizer Shoes.... ..Crocs


Posted

It seems that a lot of advise says swing easy, I said the early in the thread meaning keep good tempo and don't try and kill it and I was told I was wrong.  That thought seems to work for a lot of people.

I just pulled my 2 iron and replaced it with an 18 degree Adams DHy Hybrid.  I liked it so much I picked up the 3 and 4, 21 and 24 degree.

I am the guy that has problems with modern hybrids, I don't like the look and I tend to hook them at inopportune times.  The DHy is more of a super game improvement club.

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Posted

I know that 2-iron is quickly become extinct. For mid-high handicappers, hybrid is a much better alternative indeed. However, I particularly interested in learning and mastering 2-iron. I believe that I can hit them purely, then hitting any other club shouldn't be a problem.

So, what are the fundamentals of hitting 2-iron? Grips, setup, stance, posture? Does it have to be very quick on the downswing? Comments and suggestions are appreciated.

Hit the the ball with a slightly descending blow. As the club gets longer the more shallow the angle of attack gets. Have your weight forward at impact, maintain a steady head, have the hands inline with the shoulder and ball at impact, and hit the ball in the center of the clubface.

Basically hit the ball like any other good golf shot.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

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Posted

I've bought no less than 4 hybrids in the 18-20 degree range in an attempt to unseat my 18 degree TM RBDZ 3 long iron (actually a 2 iron by traditional standards), which I hit great off the tee, but struggle with off the fairway.     I love my 4 hybrid, but there's just something about lower lofted hybrids that don't agree with me ... I just can't hit them reliably.    Off the tee - maybe 1 out of 3 gives me the result I'm looking for.    Off the deck its a crap shoot - get brutal snap hooks and slices - doesn't happen to me with any other club.    I hit my 3 wood so much better than the longer hybrids off the deck (and tee).     So, today, I am returning the 18° long iron to the bag, and committing to it.     Can't say I haven't tried to hit low lofted hybrids like most everyone else does ... they just aren't for me.

My biggest takeaway from this exercise ... of whatever variety, the lower lofted irons/hybrids are simply not easy to hit clubs.      Don't believe what everyone tells you in that hybrids are inherently easier to hit than long irons in every situation....

PS - I am dying to try a Cobra adjustible Amp Cell fairway ... set to 20 degrees (nooooooooo - must commit to the long iron - LOL)

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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  • 1 year later...
Posted

I agree with all those who say "hit it like any other iron". Hitting it smoothly and without extra effort is the secret. I am not a low handicapper, but play Titleist 690 mb irons and they are the most stable part of my game. I recently bought a 690 cb 2-iron on ebay and hit it around 220 yards, usually dead straight. Even when I don't hit it well (about 20% of the time), it still goes straight and travels 130-150 yards, leaving me a slightly longer iron in to par 5's (as opposed to a wedge shot to the green). It is now one of my favourite clubs!


Posted

I used MacGregor MT irons from 1974-1994, and the set contained a 2 iron. I used it primarily as a driving iron. It had a loft of 21ª / 3i had 24ª / 4i had 28ª.

From 1994-2008, I used Pro Tour Black irons (a Ping Eye2 clone). Longest iron was a 3i, which was 21ª in loft.

For the next few years, I carried Callaway X20 or X20 Tour irons.  Both models had 21ª 3i, and 24ª 4i.

I later acquired a set of SLDR irons. The set has a 21ª 4i / and a 24ª 5i.

So, if you want to hit a 2i, take out your 4i and go for it.!

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Posted

About a dozen years ago, before hybrids really came into their own, I had a 2-iron in my bag like almost everyone else. It hit it off the tee only, and could count on getting 200 yards in the center with it -- great on days when your driver is being a bad boy. The longest club I could hit off the fairway with any confidence was a 4-iron, and I still can. The 4-hybrid is so much easier, though.

I take my 2-iron to the range every so often just for fun, but if I'm solid with my 5-iron but not so good with the 2, I don't spend any time figuring out why.


  • 4 years later...
Posted

I use mine when it’s quite windy off of the tee would need a great lie to hit it off the fairway

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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