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I'm nuts but....I'm thinking of cutting down my D and 3w...

onthehunt526
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onthehunt526 Super Member

onthehunt526

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I was fighting a huge block with the Driver... The last couple drives on Monday, I tried choking down on the Driver.... And hit it really straight.... Then I pulled my old TM r510 out and came to a shocking revelation... I was KILLING it before my accident with a 44" Driver and a 42.25" 3w... I know I'll lose 7.5 swing weights if I do this with my XRail Driver. And roughly 4 with my Three-wood... I can get someone to put some weight back at the butt end to counter this... Is it worth doing? I do not lose any distance doing this... I just gain more control of where its going (choking down)... Does anyone play a "Short" Driver compared to what they would be fitted for? Thanks, Shane

What's in Shane's Bag?     

Ball: 2022 :callaway: Chrome Soft Triple Track Driver: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond 8° MCA Kai’li 70s FW: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond  H: :callaway: Apex Pro 21 20°I (3-PW) :callaway: Apex 21 UST Recoil 95 (3), Recoil 110 (4-PW). Wedges: :callaway: Jaws Raw 50°, 54°, 60° UST Recoil 110 Putter: :odyssey: Tri-Hot 5K Triple Wide 35”

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mvmac Incredible Member

mvmac

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I play a 45.25" G30 driver when the stock length is 45.75" but it was built to that length and D3 swingweight, not cut down.

Mike McLoughlin

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onthehunt526 Super Member

onthehunt526

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I play a 45.25" G30 driver when the stock length is 45.75" but it was built to that length and D3 swingweight, not cut down.

Would I be better off trying to find a little heavier shaft that's already shorter, that will give me the Swing weight I'm looking for?

What's in Shane's Bag?     

Ball: 2022 :callaway: Chrome Soft Triple Track Driver: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond 8° MCA Kai’li 70s FW: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond  H: :callaway: Apex Pro 21 20°I (3-PW) :callaway: Apex 21 UST Recoil 95 (3), Recoil 110 (4-PW). Wedges: :callaway: Jaws Raw 50°, 54°, 60° UST Recoil 110 Putter: :odyssey: Tri-Hot 5K Triple Wide 35”

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32quattro Established Member

32quattro

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If you hit it well choking down , keep doing it. Why do you mess around with static weight and balance. I know several guys that had experimented cutting down their shaft then after a short period bought a new shaft (if not a complete driver). Doing so you risk to have an unsellable piece and maybe still not happy with your swing.

Try first to understand the best static weight/swing weight/length  for you, than buy a new one to specs. The research and testing can be done with no money using friends drivers and going around driving ranges.

Do not test indoor, fake numbers. Trust your eyes always

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D     Cobra Amp Cell Pro 

W    Ping G25

H    Titlelist 910 H

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W   Vokey TVD K 60 - TVD K 54 - SM5 50

P    Ping TR Cadence Heavy

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isukgolf Great Member

isukgolf

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I choke down on my driver, almost to the end of the grip. I do not want to cut the shaft, as I am afraid that would effect others factors, as well as resell/trade. Nothing wrong with choking down ... certainly don't get extra points for gripping at the end of the club, and it will still be a "stock" club if and when I sell/trade it.

Ken Proud member of the iSuk Golf Association ... Sponsored by roofing companies across the US, Canada, and the UK

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Mr. Desmond Super Member

Mr. Desmond

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I think you need to install the  weight of the shaft that fits you, and find a professional club maker that will hot melt the head --  the club maker also has to tip the shaft to fit the extra weight in the head -- in that way you have a balanced club that fits.

For example, the Callaway XR head gets grief because it is 46 inches with a very light head. He hot melted the head to get the setup to work at Stiff Flex at 45 inches and D2.

I'd recommend that route.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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SavvySwede Great Member

SavvySwede

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Another vote to continue choking down. Don't mess with something that works.

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WUTiger Incredible Member

WUTiger

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... Then I pulled my old TM r510 out and came to a shocking revelation... I was KILLING it before my accident with a 44" Driver and a 42.25" 3w...

I know I'll lose 7.5 swing weights if I do this with my XRail Driver. And roughly 4 with my Three-wood... I can get someone to put some weight back at the butt end to counter this... ...

If you want to regain the swingweight, you could try to put some tungsten weight squares on  the clubhead. But, the ridges and rails on the XRail sole might make it difficult for the weight squares to stay attached. (I considered this with my XRail 4W and 7W).

Or, you could have a clubsmith pull the shaft and put a tip weight in the shaft. Or, some clubsmiths will pull the shaft and squirt filler glue - AKA hot glue or rat glue - into the clubhead to increase the weight. Some people don't like filler because of fears it will partially melt and shift inside the clubhead during hot weather.

For your comment, to put some weight back at the butt, this will not increase swingweight. Putting the weight into the butt end of the club is called backweighting, or counterbalancing. This will lessen your swingweight, but increase overall club weight.

If you go to a lighter grip than the original, this can help you recapture swingweight. A good clubfitter can explain the calculations on this.

Focus, connect and follow through!

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mvmac Incredible Member

mvmac

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Would I be better off trying to find a little heavier shaft that's already shorter, that will give me the Swing weight I'm looking for?

I'd find a club fitter and explain to him what you want to do.

You can also just keep it simple and choke down.

Mike McLoughlin

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onthehunt526 Super Member

onthehunt526

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I'd find a club fitter and explain to him what you want to do. You can also just keep it simple and choke down.

That's probably what I'm going to do... Just choke down an inch or two and leave the Driver as is... Could just take the r510 back out for a spin too...

What's in Shane's Bag?     

Ball: 2022 :callaway: Chrome Soft Triple Track Driver: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond 8° MCA Kai’li 70s FW: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond  H: :callaway: Apex Pro 21 20°I (3-PW) :callaway: Apex 21 UST Recoil 95 (3), Recoil 110 (4-PW). Wedges: :callaway: Jaws Raw 50°, 54°, 60° UST Recoil 110 Putter: :odyssey: Tri-Hot 5K Triple Wide 35”

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Mr. Desmond Super Member

Mr. Desmond

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That's probably what I'm going to do... Just choke down an inch or two and leave the Driver as is...

Could just take the r510 back out for a spin too...


If you are going to grip down, you could replace your grip and put an extra wrap or two for the lower hand since grips typically taper.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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mpb1472 Established Member

mpb1472

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If you are going to grip down, you could replace your grip and put an extra wrap or two for the lower hand since grips typically taper.

I was thinking of cutting my driver down but this sounds like good advice for me. I do hit it better choked up but can hook it too easily at times. I might put a midsize on instead of the wraps. Thanks.


inthehole Great Member

inthehole

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When learning to hit driver, I used to buy cheap used clubs, experiment and cut the shafts down a lot - really helped me in my formative years.   Same with a 3 wood.    Now, I'm ok with full length, but it took a while to get comfortable with the longer clubs.  I definitely recommend shortening shafts as it makes things a whole lot easier & seeing if it works for you (I always hated choking up, so I preferred shortening shaft lengths - its easy) ...

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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Note: This thread is 3819 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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