allenc

Looking at the specs of those CBXBlades, the AW seems very unusual. The loft is only 3 degrees weaker than the PW. At the very least most manufacturers stick to a 4 degree progression, but often go to 5 degrees for the wedges. Also the length is the same as the PW, which should make the distance gap even smaller. Finally the lie angle is 0.5 more upright than the PW even though they are the same length. Many people prefer slightly flatter lies on their wedges to avoid the pull, but here they went the opposite. Maybe there is a design trick up their sleeve, but the above would have me getting my own AW at 51 or 52.

I guess “tap in going 12 feet” is an exaggeration and this was 2 1/2 years ago so my memory is fuzzy. But they were very fast. Maybe more like what feels like an 8 footer goes 12 feet.

The bold is actually what I’m getting at. I did a fitting on an artificial green that was so fast, I had to use my tap in stroke to hit it 12 feet to the string. So did I end up with the weighting that is best for me in general, or the best weighting for me to control a tiny stroke that nevertheless still goes over 12 feet?

So you don’t think there is anything to the idea that a heavy putter may, for some people, be ideal for a 3” backstroke but harder to control for a 15” backstroke?

I did an Edel fitting a couple years ago on artificially turf. The green was so incredibly fast that I suspect I was fit into too heavy a putter, which may help your distance control on fast greens. It took several months for me to get used to it on the normal greens I play. Now it’s good though, so maybe it wasn’t too heavy after all. You could bring it up at the fitting if it’s a concern. I didn’t think of it until I got my putter and realized I couldn’t stroke a 40 footer on 9 stimp at all.

This is the right answer. I’m sorry but the other responses were practically gibberish. You are looking for one club shorter than your 4 hybrid. That is the 5 hybrid of the same make. That will usually be longer than a five iron and for you that appears to be the case (since the gap between your 5i and 4h is so wide).

I live in Vegas but my girlfriend’s place is in L.A. so I’m here all the time as well. I’m having winter depression because the weather is currently so damn nice that all the courses are too crowded. C’mon! Rain a little so things thin out and I can try my new rain gloves.

In my opinion the only reason to buy the latest model club is for the free fitting and custom build that usually comes with it. If you're buying a stock club then buying this year's model is just throwing money in the garbage.

Were you using the KBS shaft in all 3? Somehow your club speed is 10mph more in the red club than the green. To me seems like you might have been using a lighter, longer shaft or you were getting tired. In either case that kind of makes you results not as useful. Oh, just noticed your ball speed was the same across all clubs. That actually suggests that the launch monitor was not reading your swing speed right. So I don't know what to say based on that. You might do some more tests on the club with the most and least offset to see if that's causing you to aim the clubhead too far left.

I assume you are landing a lot of those 8-9 irons on the fairway and bouncing them up to the green? I would say the majority of shots cannot be played with an 8-9 if you are actually trying to carry the green. So that means you need a pretty tight fairway to play it your way, in which case your's is a pretty good option. On a lot of fairways however you will get very inconsistent results if you land your short game shots there. Even a higher handicapper who plays on those courses will probably want to try and fly his ball all the way to the green. That still doesn't mean you need a premium ball. If you hit a high pitch shot (not flop, just typical high) you would just plan on an extra few feet of roll out. That's fine I think, you'll still do pretty well. Also, I personally find a wedge pitch shot using the bounce is about the same difficulty as a bump and run. I can flub the latter pretty much as often as the former.

The driver I currently have in the bag, the Cobra F6, I bought for $100. So that is definitely it. I bought my 3 wood and hybrid for about $100 and paid full price for my irons — about $125 per club. My putter is by far the worst value per yard. Got a milled custom built one for $500.

I’m a 10 index and I’ve never broken 80 on a par 72 from middle tees. On a recent tournament round I shot 80 by doubling the par 5 18th after making two excellent long game shots . I have broken it several times when you apply ESC though.

I like the look of the game improvement irons. They look a lot like the AP1s. The forged irons look fine, but I prefer the forged cavity backs made by Titleist, TaylorMade, Callaway, Mizuno, and Srixon. They would have to be under $1000 for a set of 8 to compete for me.

I've always agreed with @Groucho Valentine and @lastings. How far you hit it isn't the most important factor in deciding what tees to play from. Your skill is much more important. For example, on a 75 rated, 7000 yard course a scratch golfer playing to his handicap should shoot 75. That's true whether he hits it 240 or 300. So the shorter hitter isn't taking any more strokes or holding anyone up more than the longer hitter. Maybe at certain distances that analysis breaks down and your handicap doesn't describe your game perfectly. But in general I think ability is more important than length. One related point regarding less skilled golfers is that they pretty much all average way less distance than their good drives. Even if a hypothetical player is right that he can hit it 250, when you count all of the miss hits he actually averages 220. Such a player should play from the 220 yards tees even though he would probably look at the chart above and choose the 250 yard tees.

I had a look at his career on Wikipedia. In 2013 he made 16 cuts in 16 starts, had 5 wins, and was the #1 player in the world. That was 3 years after his infidelities came to light and his subsequent divorce.

I’ve played a few courses that have added one set of tees around the beginning of the fairway but not this complete system. I like it. I like the idea of mowing some teeing grounds in the rough so as not to get in the way on the fairway and to feel more official.

Maybe I went overboard. I was thinking back to when I was skinny in college and could do 15 reps of 135 after only a couple weeks of just beginning. I might not have been doing them right though. My main point is that I think Bubba is a pretty strong guy in general and could out muscle most who share his dimensions.

Wow. What do guys in this thread have against Bubba? I would bet any amount he could do 20-50 reps at that weight rather than 2-5 reps (ok, closer to 20 than 50). If he literally doesn’t bench at all in his current workout routines he might need a couple weeks to get used to it but sheesh. 145 isn’t that much and he’s not a string bean, he’s a tall, well proportioned professional athlete.

I certainly join you in making that distinction. A closed club face that goes low with a pull hook is very different than a high shot that starts straight or with a push then curves a lot. Where I don’t join you is with the terminology. I hit a fair amount of what you call an “overdraw” but I like to call that a hook more so than the low running shot. For me if it moves enough to get you in trouble then it’s a hook, otherwise it’s a draw. I even call it a hook if it’s a good shot that starts way left (left handed) and ends up on target. A draw just moves a few yards. The other shot I call a low-crappy-running-pull-hook-heading-straight-for-the-water. Although I may intentionally make that shot when behind trees. Your way is probably better.

So many in this thread essentially are saying “you’ll pry that third wedge from my cold dead hands!” It’s easy to play two wedges in addition to your set PW but rereading the op that isn’t the question. My 9 iron is 40degrees and I thought I would make varying lengths of backswings with it to cover about 140 - 110. Then the 52 is a nice approach wedge for a couple distances. The 58 with the right grind is versatile around the greens and good for partial shots from about 90 yards in. A pretty good blend of my current sand and lob wedges. However writing all that, I might bump the 52 down to about 49 to share more responsibilities with my 9 iron and have even gaps. It might be more difficult to use from bunkers though.

I would carry a 52 and 58. That would mean I’d have to buy two new wedges though so I’m not doing that.

Unless you have a very fast swing speed there will be a point of diminishing returns as iron lofts decrease. The wise choice is to use a hybrid at that point. As for the bolded, most of the time you will need a higher loft hybrid to replace an iron. The shafts are longer, the faces hotter, the center of gravity lower and farther back, so they will go higher and farther. You should experiment with hybrids from 24 to 26 degrees to replace your 5 iron.

It would just be more fulfilling to me. Being close to the best at something and performing it on the biggest stage is a blessing most of us never get to experience. Being rich and and filling your time with hobbies isn’t nearly as interesting to me. Yes he can still golf. That’s not exactly the same as playing on the pga tour and probably many majors.

Your poll has a very anti-blue bias. Where is the option for “I prefer blue”? My Cobra has a glossy white which I like. If their blue was available at the time I would have thought about getting it instead. I definitely like the Mizuno blue wedges.

What kind of brand snobbery is it to not play TM putters and Ping irons? The current world #1 and a recent previous #1 (Jason Day) used TaylorMade putters. Ping irons are some of the most famous in the world and also used by top players.