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Best "older" iron (Titleist, Miz)?


zripp3
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I've been using the A30S irons/hybrids for about a year now and have seen marked improvement in my swing and performance. After all of the recent threads on blades, etc. I'm thinking of moving away from such a "game improvement" club but would like to stay in the $150-$250 used club range, preferably an older Titleist model, or an abbreviated set of MP-32's (5-PW). My goal in this is to work on my game from a more traditional club instead of relying on the club correcting any deficiencies. Most of what I'm finding in that $ range are the 962/990DCI, 735.CM, and 755's, or MP-32's. Would any of these be better suited than another?

In the Vector:

Driver - Hibore XL 9.5
Woods - exotics cb2 15* 906f4 18.5*
Hybrid - clk 20Irons - MP-33 (4-P)Wedges - oil can vokey's 52.08, SM56.10, SM60.08Putters - Studio Laguna 2.5Ball - Touri

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I've seen that you play the MP's. Is there a noticeable difference between those and some of the older (pre-2008) titleist models? Unfortunately, it's hard for me to swing those as the shops don't have any on the shelf (not even on the used section), so I can't get a first-hand understanding of the differences.

In the Vector:

Driver - Hibore XL 9.5
Woods - exotics cb2 15* 906f4 18.5*
Hybrid - clk 20Irons - MP-33 (4-P)Wedges - oil can vokey's 52.08, SM56.10, SM60.08Putters - Studio Laguna 2.5Ball - Touri

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oh, i've just demoed some :) i'm seriously considering a 5-p set like you. the MP 32 is an older set, like a few years or more.. the newer models have new technology in the form of more 'cut muscle' and/or cavity design, depending on model..

as for titleist, most are cast clubs, except for the blades..lol.

almost all mizunos are grain flow forged, out of 1 billet of 1025 carbon steel usually. it will say on the head of the club.

you're getting better, if you have a proper club that will show you what you're doing wrong, it will force you to either a) quit or b) become a better ballstriker..in my case it made me better and put me in the 70s.

the mizunos will be better made, in some titleist clubs the hosel is internally welded to the head, or so the owner of a local store which i didn't buy from that day said..mizuno is 1 piece.

titleist= cast except for blades or unless designated on the head
mizuno= MP series are all forged, like the titleist blades, but mizuno has a reputation for forging, build quality, and feel

go to a golf usa if you have one, they have a net you can hit into or a golfsmith which has a sim
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i'd go with the mp 32 if it was me..theres a nice set on ebay for a good price and some that i can trade in for locally for a good price..

mizuno will be of better quality due to the one piece forged construction, and flawless attn to detail..japanese club.. good stuff

the mp32 is basically a blade which is harder to hit than a cavity back, but rewards a good swing..it's a players club for sure, if you want that, go for it, you cant go wrong w/ a mizuno iron
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If you are still interested in Titleist, check out the 681's for older forged blades. Even the most beligerent of Mizuno lovers, in the player club category, tend to approve of these(ie a few of my buddies, and of course Tiger).

After all, they were designed for Tiger modeled after the Mizunos he was using at that time. (pre-Tiger Nike)

X-460 9.5* tour Driver/Fujikura stiff
X-15* tour 3 wood/Fujikura stiff
3DX 18.5* Hybrid/Aldila stiff
681 3-PW/Project X 6.0 (now in bag)
X-16 Pro Series Irons/Dynamic Gold S300 54* and 58* wedges Anser Sn putter

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oh, i've just demoed some :) i'm seriously considering a 5-p set like you. the MP 32 is an older set, like a few years or more.. the newer models have new technology in the form of more 'cut muscle' and/or cavity design, depending on model..

Since 1991 Titleist has only produced one model of cast clubs, and that is this years AP-1's. I don't know where you got your information, but it is incorrect. Here's the

Titleist website, and here is the information on the Archived clubs.

Here's what I play:

Titleist 907 D2 10.5* UST ProForce V2 76-S | Titleist 906F4 18.5* Aldila VS Proto "By You" 80-S | Titleist 585H 21* Aldila VS Proto "By You" 80-S | Titleist ZB 4-PW TTDG S300 | Bob Vokey Spin Milled Oil Can 54.10 | Bob Vokey Spin Milled Oil Can 60.08 | Scotty Cameron Red X5 33" |

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in some titleist clubs the hosel is internally welded to the head, or so the owner of a local store which i didn't buy from that day said..mizuno is 1 piece.

B.S. I think the local store owner was feeding you full of crap. As far as I know all Titleist Irons are cast(one piece) or forged (one piece...isn't that the point?)

Some Titleist woods employ a patented laser weld... but no irons. Perhaps your local store owner has a better profit margin on Mizunos... so he pimps the heck out of them.

X-460 9.5* tour Driver/Fujikura stiff
X-15* tour 3 wood/Fujikura stiff
3DX 18.5* Hybrid/Aldila stiff
681 3-PW/Project X 6.0 (now in bag)
X-16 Pro Series Irons/Dynamic Gold S300 54* and 58* wedges Anser Sn putter

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Since 1991 Titleist has only produced one model of cast clubs, and that is this years AP-1's. I don't know where you got your information, but it is incorrect. Here's the

Production Year: 1999-2000

Cast from heat-treated and homogenized 431 stainless steel, the DCI 990's soft profile, shallow blade, flat topline and low progressive offset provide a traditional set-up appearance.

Mike

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Production Year: 1999-2000

Okay I have been corrected, thanks

Here's what I play:

Titleist 907 D2 10.5* UST ProForce V2 76-S | Titleist 906F4 18.5* Aldila VS Proto "By You" 80-S | Titleist 585H 21* Aldila VS Proto "By You" 80-S | Titleist ZB 4-PW TTDG S300 | Bob Vokey Spin Milled Oil Can 54.10 | Bob Vokey Spin Milled Oil Can 60.08 | Scotty Cameron Red X5 33" |

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I just did what you are doing: I replaced my TM RAC OS2 for a set of MP-32 blades, and I have no regrets!
I haven´t been playing for too long (less than a year), so I am certainly not candidate for "players" clubs but, just as you, I believe that a club that delivers a better feedback will help me be a better golfer (and hopefully one day became a "player" ).
There is still a lot to improve in my game; I don´t know if I was right and my players clubs are making me a "player", but I do know that I don´t miss my game improvement irons. My new clubs are not only much better looking, they feel great and I really enjoy when I hit the ball pure. And when I don´t hit it perfectly, my ball still flies a very decent distance (I can´t see any difference with my previous irons, so probably I only lost 5~10 yards, if any).
I don´t have any experience with any Titleist irons, so I can only recommend the MP-32, but the rest of my clubs are Titleist, and they are also of excellent quality (players clubs as well).

Clubs in my bag: TaylorMade R7 SuperDeep TP 9.5° Fujikura Speeder 757 S | Titleist 906F2 13° AccuFLEX ICON FH X| Adams Idea Pro Black 18° Aldila NV Pro 105-S| Mizuno MP-57 3-7; MP-32 8-P PX6.0 | Mizuno MP T-10 54.09, 60.05
My bags and cart: Titleist Carry Bag | Mizuno Omega V + Clicgear 2.0

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I think "someone" is grossly over exaggerating the benefits of cast vs forged. With todays technology it is virtually impossible to tell the differences between the two different types.

Where I play: Mission Viejo CC and
long Beach Skylinks

In My Red Cleveland Club Count Bag Today;
Hibore XLS 11.5* w/ Diamana Redboard Flowerband 63 S 2009 Launcher 3WD HT 17* w/ Graffalloy Epic 87g S Hibore XLS Hybrid 22* w/ Graffalloy Epic S and 25* w/ Project X 6.0 CG2 4-PW w/ Project X 6.0 HL...

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Mizuno Mp 33 irons, no need to look further

Available Mp 33 irons
http://cgi.ebay.com/MIZUNO-MP-33-IRO...d=p3286.c0.m14


Sold Mp 33 irons
http://cgi.ebay.com/Custom-Mizuno-MP...d=p3286.c0.m14

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1

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Thanks for all the responses. I'm not sure it really matters at this point in my development (or ever, as some say) between cast and forged, although quality of construction and longevity are always important. I appreciate the link for the 33's, ones I haven't considered. There are just so many variations out there, especially with Titleist, that it seems as long as I stay away from the "unforgiving, preferred by great/low-hcp players" clubs I'll be ok. And I'm only looking for this to be a stepping stone away from GI clubs.

In the Vector:

Driver - Hibore XL 9.5
Woods - exotics cb2 15* 906f4 18.5*
Hybrid - clk 20Irons - MP-33 (4-P)Wedges - oil can vokey's 52.08, SM56.10, SM60.08Putters - Studio Laguna 2.5Ball - Touri

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Titleist 681 blades

Driver: 10.5* SuperQuad TP 1st Edition All Black V2 Stiff
5 Wood - 585.h 19* DG S300
Irons: 3-PW S59 Stiff
Wedges: Rac TP 52*, 60* MP-T 56*
Putter(s): Anser 3 TP Black ballGET TO SINGLE DIGITS!Goal: Beat a certain admin that lives in my town

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I think "someone" is grossly over exaggerating the benefits of cast vs forged. With todays technology it is virtually impossible to tell the differences between the two different types.

I'm not sure there are clear benefits of cast vs forged... but I think generally one can tell via feel there are some differences. Generally speaking: A forged blade(Titlesit/Mizuno ect.) will force you to hit down and through the ball... If you like to sweep the ball with your irons... blades are likely not for you. A forged blade will also force you to consistantly hit a smaller spot(sweet spot) on the club. Typically, one will know if you hit 1cm closer the heel or 1cm closer to the toe. In my experience, this feedback isn't present in most cast clubs(the ones I've owned and hit that is). So it sort of depends one where you wanna take your game and what style of game you have. Is one better than the other? no

X-460 9.5* tour Driver/Fujikura stiff
X-15* tour 3 wood/Fujikura stiff
3DX 18.5* Hybrid/Aldila stiff
681 3-PW/Project X 6.0 (now in bag)
X-16 Pro Series Irons/Dynamic Gold S300 54* and 58* wedges Anser Sn putter

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  • Administrator
A forged blade(Titlesit/Mizuno ect.) will force you to hit down and through the ball... If you like to sweep the ball with your irons... blades are likely not for you.

I disagree with that. In fact, I could probably argue the opposite more easily: most cavity-back clubs have thicker soles that are better at getting out of the ground than the narrow soles found on most musclebacks.

But really, I believe the truth is neither of the above, except in the cases when you have a really wide sole (like those Callaway Fusion Wide-Soles) that really, really help people with their over-the-top, shove-the-club-in-the-ground move.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

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Note: This thread is 5680 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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