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Ok, I have never tried anything other than a regular shaft. I know my swing speed is suited for a regular shaft, at least that's what was recommended for me when I did swing analysis...so I stuck with it.

I have a friend who just started out in Golf, first time out on the course and he was hitting 220-250 consistently. Straight and long..amazingly natural swing so I took a look at his driver.

He doesn't know much about clubs in general so he bought a driver (can't remember what brand) that was on sale for 30 bucks or so at Dicks Sporting goods. I did notice that he had a Lady's Flex and you can tell it flex'd when he swung the club.

Ironically, he has amazing drives. I can't even imagine once he actually understand the entire concept but he has a natural swing.

So here I am, tempted to try out a Lady's flex club. Lol. I know my swing speed is slower than normal and I'm no strong person.

Do you think this will help in developing a better consistent swing?

I'm thinking of taking this a different approach buy just trying out a lady's driver and move on from there. Right now, I feel like I can't figure out what is going on.

Of course, I have no shame on trying out a Lady's club but I might just try it.

In my Edge and Atlas bag:
driver: FT-iQ 9R and Taylormade R9 460 10.5 R
wood: 5 Wood FT-iQ Neutral
hybrid(s): 3 Burner
irons: x22 3-PWwedges: Black Nickel Vokey 52/8, 56/11 & Oil Can 60/7 and Callaway x-Forge 56putter: Studio Style Newport 2 33" and Sabretooth 33"GPS RangeFinder: uPRORangeFinder....


They say you should use the softest flex that you can control. That particular lady flex that your friend bought might not be the same as other lady flexes.

RZR Hawk 9.5

Diablo Tour 3W

RZR X Hybrid 21
09 X-Forged 4-P
X-Forged 52/56/60
Byron Morgan 007


You'd get some serious stick for that! I find alot of lag slightly disconcerting which is why all my woods are stiff (graphite) and my irons are regular (dynamic gold steel). Keep in mind that a fujikara regular may be the equivilant to a usb stiff and so forth (there is no standard measurement). But to avoid the massive ribbing you'd get for using a ladies flex why not opt for senior flex?

In the Bag:

R7 Draw, stiff Exsar FS2
F-50 3-wood, stiff Exsar FS2
F-50 5-wood, stiff Exsar FS2 MP-60 3-PW, reg TT dynamic gold MP Tour Style 54.10 and 60.09,reg TT dynamic gold Bobby Grace DCT Response, w/ golf pride "2 thumb" grip B330S


  powerfader said:
You'd get some serious stick for that! I find alot of lag slightly disconcerting which is why all my woods are stiff (graphite) and my irons are regular (dynamic gold steel). Keep in mind that a fujikara regular may be the equivilant to a usb stiff and so forth (there is no standard measurement). But to avoid the massive ribbing you'd get for using a ladies flex why not opt for senior flex?

Good point on the Senior Flex. I may try that instead.

In my Edge and Atlas bag:
driver: FT-iQ 9R and Taylormade R9 460 10.5 R
wood: 5 Wood FT-iQ Neutral
hybrid(s): 3 Burner
irons: x22 3-PWwedges: Black Nickel Vokey 52/8, 56/11 & Oil Can 60/7 and Callaway x-Forge 56putter: Studio Style Newport 2 33" and Sabretooth 33"GPS RangeFinder: uPRORangeFinder....


Right now I play a A-Flex (senior shaft) because that is what was on the driver when it was given to me. I can hit it further then some others when I hit it right, but it is harder to control and when I don't hit it right I can't predict where the ball will go. If you can learn to control your swing then you might be able to bomb it.

Bag: Corza Stand Bag
Driver: Launcher 460 Comp 9.5
Woods: Burner 3/5
Irons: TA7 Tour 4-PW
Wedges: 588 Tour Action 51*/57*Putter: Two bar blade center shaft


two words....

get....fitted

In my Titleist 2014 9.5" Staff bag:

Cobra Bio+ 9* Matrix White Tie X  - Taylormade SLDR 15* ATTAS 80X - Titleist 910H 19* ATTAS 100X - Taylormade '13 TP MC 4-PW PX 6.5 - Vokey TVD M 50* DG TI X100 - Vokey SM4 55 / Vokey SM5 60* DG TI S400 - Piretti Potenza II 365g


Agreed. There is no subsitute for a professional fitting. I would not be surprised if many of your clubs needed changing. Loft/lie/length/grip size/etc... let a pro tell you what you need, then take those clubs to your local PGA pro for some lessons. The game will be easier than ever soon after.

Get fit, or go to the range and hit a bunch of different shafts.

Based on my swing speed I am a tweener regular / stiff, but can hit a stiff farther and straighter. I have no idea why, but I'm going to stick with what works.

  buttuh said:
They say you should use the softest flex that you can control. That particular lady flex that your friend bought might not be the same as other lady flexes.

+1. thats very true. i know a guy who is a scratch golfer that uses a senior flex in his 3 wood. he controls it great and he can hit it a mile. it doesnt matter if its a lady flex, senior flex, or regular flex. use the whippiest shaft you can control. some guys will only play X flex shafts because of ego even though they should be using something else. i dont care if your driver swing speed is 115 mph. if you can control a senior flex flex, use it


I recently went through the purchase of a whole new set of clubs, from woods to irons to wedges to putter. I went to Golfsmith to get ideas on club fitting, and while they could not test my swing speed (they only had that set up for righties), they thought I would be best with Regular shafts based upon watching my swing in the testing area.

I ended up buying all of my clubs in Regular, and for the most part, it seems fine. But my Regular flex Nike Sumo Squared 5900 Driver was one whippy beast on the course my first time out with it this past weekend. I simply had to swap that one out for the Stiff shaft. My Nike Sumo Squared fairway woods could use the stiffer shafts, but I can't just swap those clubs. My Nike Sumo Squared hybrids feel ok with the Regular. And my Callaway Big Bertha Irons and Wedges feel ok with the Regular flex graphite shafts.

So a lot can depend on the club and the specific shaft used. I had ignored warnings about how whippy the 5900 shaft was, and the warnings were definitely right. I started with Regular 10.5 degree loft, and ended up at Stiff 9.5 degree loft, which most user reviews seemed to suggest. I find that much more usable.

As to the OP, yes please, at least compromise with the Senior shaft... :) But I suspect that Regular is probably flexible enough for you.

Equipment:
Ping K15 Driver (10.5º) - Diamana BB R flex; Ping G15 4 Wood (TFC R flex); Ping G15 20* Hybrid (TFC R flex); Ping G15 23* and 27* Hybrids (AWT R flex steel); Ping G15 Irons 6-GW (AWT R flex steel); Ping I-Wedge 54* Wedge; CG14 BP 58* Wedge; Odyssey Black Series Tour Designs #9 Putter


  jeffrey r said:
I recently went through the purchase of a whole new set of clubs, from woods to irons to wedges to putter. I went to Golfsmith to get ideas on club fitting, and while they could not test my swing speed (they only had that set up for righties), they thought I would be best with Regular shafts based upon watching my swing in the testing area.

thats true. and im the same. i use a STIFF shaft in my driver because i couldnt control a regular flex shaft. but, i use regular flex shafts in my fairway woods and hybrid, and R400 shafts in my irons. you use what you can control. its not based on swing speed alone

  Gioguy21 said:
two words....

Good Point! Until more golfers begin to understand that their swing speed has very little to do with selecting the appropriate flex, they will continue to spend untold amounts of money on equipment that will never help their game. I fit a local long-drive competitor with 120+ swing speed, via our swing frequency analysis, and actually ended up putting him in a shaft equivelant to a lady flex. I have found that the biggest majority of golfers are playing shafts that are too stiff for them. Generally speaking, golfers with higher swing speeds tend to need softer shafts than golfers with slower swing speeds because they're actually getting more help from the centrifugal force of the clubhead. I realize that concept goes against the majority of the golfing industry, but I can actually prove it.
Driver - Kenneth Smith 460 Classic Grafalloy Blue
Woods - Kenneth Smith 3 & 5 Woods Grafalloy Blue
Irons - Kansas City KC-102 Musclebacks Harrison Professional Shafts
Wedges - Kansas City 56* & 60* KCM-Grinds Harrison Professional Shafts
Putter - Kansas City Prototype

  Ken Smith said:
Good Point! Until more golfers begin to understand that their swing speed has very little to do with selecting the appropriate flex, they will continue to spend untold amounts of money on equipment that will never help their game. I fit a local long-drive competitor with 120+ swing speed, via our swing frequency analysis, and actually ended up putting him in a shaft equivelant to a lady flex. I have found that the biggest majority of golfers are playing shafts that are too stiff for them. Generally speaking, golfers with higher swing speeds tend to need softer shafts than golfers with slower swing speeds because they're actually getting more help from the centrifugal force of the clubhead. I realize that concept goes against the majority of the golfing industry, but I can actually prove it.

thats EXACTLY right. theres another online golf forum (im sure most of you know which one im talking about) where practically EVERYONE is hitting XFlex shafts from their driver on down to their wedges. its ridiculous. my guess would be that they just said "

my SS is X, so I must need X Flex shafts"

I had the same dilemma, I could hit my ping g5 with a regular flex a mile, then i purchased a callaway ft-i and the pro told me to go stiff, he said i would see much more consistent strikes... i am pushing the ball a little more than id like but that happens when you switch clubs, soon enough i will wrangle this stick and hit it great...i recommend with getting fitted...it is worth every penny.
Driver: Taylor Made R9, Woods: Callaway Hyper X 3 wood, Hybrid: Cleveland Mashie 20 degree Irons: Callaway X-20's, Wedge: Cleveland 588 56 degree, Putter: Cleveland CC 6 Classic Black Platinum, Ball: Noodle, Shoes: Contour
 
Maryland Golf and Country Club in Bel Air, MD.

  RocketSauce said:
thats EXACTLY right. theres another online golf forum (im sure most of you know which one im talking about) where practically EVERYONE is hitting XFlex shafts from their driver on down to their wedges. its ridiculous. my guess would be that they just said "

Glad I searched for this thread ...

Recently, I've noticed that I've been killing my 3 wood, which't has a stiff flex stock shaft found on the Nike Sumos. I'm hitting my 5900 driver okay as long as I don't try to play outside my ability (still in 2nd season of on the course golf) but every I don't get the same consistency when I swing as hard as my 3 wood. The driver has the stock regular flex diamana shaft (all my other clubs have regular shafts too). When I do miss is straight right ... no slice or anything, sometimes it may miss right and try to draw back left but it's still a big miss. Today I stopped by Dick's and got on the monitor and my swing speed was in the high 90's and the spin was about 4200 (balls were B'stone E6+). The gentleman that helped me didn't really elaborate on what I needed but said I may need a stiff shaft. I'm in Central PA so there's not a huge number of golf clubs with the comprehensive range of services (fitting) ... where do people go to get fit since I don't have much confidence in Dick's at the moment? Thx...

you could look into the "lite" flexes too which i believe are equivelent to a senior flex.
In the bag:
983k 9.5° YS-6 graphite shaft driver
F Speed LD Mens 3 Wood 15.5° Graphite Design Tour AD YS Stiff
2H 18° Baffler Pro with Fukijura Speeder Stiff Graphite Shaft
3H 20° Baffler Pro DCi irons 4-PW + S Rosa putter

Anyone have a rough estimate on how much it would cost to change out to R300 or PX 5.0 with decent GP grips.

« Keith »


  wrx_junki said:
Anyone have a rough estimate on how much it would cost to change out to R300 or PX 5.0 with decent GP grips.

well, if you buy the shafts off ebay, you can get a full set for around $150. its too bad proshopwarehouse went under cuz you could get them for half that price thru them. and you can get a set of GP grips on ebay for around $40 give or take a few dollars depending on which type you buy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rifle-Project-X-...lenotsupported

Note: This thread is 5769 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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