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Posted
i think that im going going to get lessons. With my other clubs im ok just not very consistent.

An image I like to think of is swinging a bucket of water so that the water does not fall out. If you swing too fast or jerk it from the top, you will get wet.

- Shane

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Posted
Personally I would take it slow and not try to kill it. Learn what it feels like to hit it where you want it short distances, then gradually increase how hard you hit it. For me, it's all about where the ball is in my stance. If I'm slicing real bad then I put the ball closer to my front foot, if I'm hooking bad I bring it back in my stance.(gradually of course) The driver can be the best feeling club, or the biggest pain in the butt. Just depends on how careless you are to detail.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
Would you like to get down to a 10 handicap without driver and long irons ? That's what I did to lower my score and increase confidence by leaving them in the bag. Just use 7-8 iron max. Accept bogey score on the long par 4's. The par 5's are relatively easy to par if you don't use long irons or woods. For a 450 yard par 5, use 7 iron 3 times. It's all about playing within your limitations which for me is to use loft (vertical ball spin) to be more accurate. Doesn't mean that I don't use my driver or long irons at all. I just leave them in the bag on days when I want a low score.

Posted
I wasnt trying to insult the guy. I was just making a point as to why a 26 handicap feels a driver is so important to a 30+ handicap.

I'm curious when it was that Nicklaus said that. I remember trying to hit my Dad's persimmon drivers when I was a kid, and I would definitely agree that it was best then to work your way up to a driver. I'm definitely a high, high handicapper but with the drivers I've had recently and how easy they are to hit, they are usually the least of my problems.


Posted
Short swing, easy swing, grab down on the club. The faster and longer you move the club, the harder it is to hit. Most of the power comes from places you don't utilize when trying to kill the ball with the arms.

Ogio Grom | Callaway X Hot Pro | Callaway X-Utility 3i | Mizuno MX-700 23º | Titleist Vokey SM 52.08, 58.12 | Mizuno MX-700 15º | Titleist 910 D2 9,5º | Scotty Cameron Newport 2 | Titleist Pro V1x and Taylormade Penta | Leupold GX-1

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Posted
think outside the box, if you want to improve your driver then practice your pitch shots. yes, don't practice with your driver, especially since you can't hit the club but practice with your wedges at distances of 20-50 yards.

if you start hitting your wedges consistently solid with the sound and feel for feedback from your wedges you can move up to your PW - 8 irons and slowly move up your clubs until you feel your ready for your driver.

You will find your golf swing and improve your shot game at the same time.
remember for most people the hardest club is the driver because of the length of the shaft.

another tip with the driver is choke up on the shaft until your at a length you are comfortable hitting consistently with even if you are only hitting it 210 yards because its choke up so far. then slowly move back out. try to keep the tempo of your driver swing the same and at 70% while you are searching for your driver swing.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
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Posted
I agree with what a lot of people are saying. If you cant hit your driver right now, leave it in the bag. Earlier this season, my brother who rarely ever plays could not hit his driver at all on the first two holes. struggling to get it in the air. he hit 3 iron off the tee the rest of the round, and beat my by a stroke. I played awful, but still, it shows you that you can still be very effective without hitting your driver every hole.

Clubs:

Driver: Ping G10 10.5 UST Mamiya Proforce V2 Stiff
Fairway: Ping G10 15.5 UST Mamiya Proforce V2 stiff
Hybrid: Ping G10 18.0 UST Mamiya Proforce V2 H stiffIrons:  Ping S56 3-PW KBS tour StiffWedges:  Ping Tour S 56, 60 degree KBS tour stiffPutter:  Ping scottsdale anser 2 34"


Posted

I agree with the posters that recommended using a "go-to" club until you get the feel of the driver. Use the range to figure out the driver, not the course. I use my 3 hybrid a ton off the tee because I'm very comfortable hitting it 200-225 and straight down the middle. Sure I can hit my driver 250-275 when I hit it right, but there's a lot more margin for error.


Posted

From many sites (right handed)

Keep your right shoulder down, not as far as you can, but just a comfortable drop. Measure it by putting a club 90 to the ground in the middle of your chest, and tilting a little to the right until it touches the inside of your left leg (grip down).

Loose grip. You don't want the club to fly out of your hands, but if you grip too tight you will likely pull the club toward you as you swing and then you will have lots of slices. (hit off the toe).

Make sure your knees are bent slightly and you are also leaning forward a little (bent at hips). This makes a huge difference for sweeping the ball instead of digging dirt. (I couldn't hit with my fairway for a long time because of this)

Feet parallel to ball line. I don't hear this stressed much, but I think it contributed to a lot of my hard slices. It messes up the angle of the head at impact.

Make sure your feet aren't too far apart. I see people who take a baseball stance and then hit the ground 8 inches behind or in front of the ball. You are powering the ball with your body movement, NOT your arms... in fact if you watch Tiger in slow mo you will see that he starts with his lower body before he starts his upper body. It's too quick to see at normal speed, but it's there. If you try swing with your arms you will also hit the ground alot.

Knuckle trick- stand with the club directly behind the ball, look at your left hand, you should be able to see the index and middle finger knuckles on your left hand. If you don't, turn your left hand to the right until you do. This fixed a LOT of my friend's pulls/hooks. Someone told me the angle of your hand should match the angle of the club face (not loft, but what you see at address)

Don't stretch out, but make sure that your left arm stays straight. The knuckle trick helps this.

Don't Tee too high or you may end up ducking

Don't swing fast on your backswing, just bring it up in place and feel if everything feels right, if not readjust. I like to take 2-3 slow swings to check for anything uncomfortable in my swing (at the ball). Just be careful to:

Keep your eye on the ball.

I'm still a rookie, this is just information I've collected. Let me know if anything is wrong.


Posted
From many sites (right handed)

You should do that with every full swing you do.

A quote from Kris
...is that college bball really isn't "lower tier". The better teams have their rosters filled with guys who could play in the NBA. hell, guys used to come straight from high school to the NBA. I really don't think there's much of a difference skill-wise between the two.


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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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