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Posted

How do you folks feel about playing the same ball all the time?  I find that if I switch around and use a Precept EV one round or for a few holes, reach into the bag and pull out a Wilson Smart Core, that the play is different enough, especially around the green and putting that I would be better off to find one ball that I like and play with it all the time.

I have recently been playing and satisfied with the Bridgestone Fixx

Curious to see responses to this, as I think it affects your overall game, if not only in the fact that you begin to play the same ball consistently the same way.

Roy


Posted

For my game the ball really doesn't matter much. I haven't played much this year so I have only used 1 ball Taylormade TP Red.  Last year I used some TP Reds, Nike One Tour D, Bridgestone E6, Top Flite D2 feel, and Nike One Tours. Scores were pretty much the same with all of them.


Posted

I am pretty much a tried and true player of Titlist balls but I do try others occasionally.  Earlier in the year I was playing Bridgestone E7's for a while which is a real nice ball and just recently I bought a dozen of the new Srixon Q-Star Balls to try. I always come back to Titlist .

Stephen T.


Posted

I've used a ProV1 (now ProV1x) pretty much exclusively for 4 seasons. I doubt it has affected my scoring much but I got into that ball because I love the feel with the putter and that remains the primary reason I continue to play that ball. As my wedge game improved I came to appreciate the feel and the spin off the wedges but off the irons or woods I cant feel much of a difference between one ball or another. I have tried different brands at different price points and always have gone back to a ProV. I do use NXT's early and late in the season when course conditions become less groomed but for me it's really just a comfort level playing the same ball.


Posted

i play with 3 balls, mayority of my play is with sxrixon ad333 cheap good distance and generates a fair amount of spin, prov1/x but i cant always justify the cost and nike power distance soft decent distance and good around the greens


Posted
I've found that switching to a non-spinning average rock will hurt me. I can play with such a ball if I'm prepared for it, but if I just pull one out for a hole or two I forget about it and often run pitches (or even chips) too long. Other than that, I've switched types with little effect. Sure, some balls will go a couple yards shorter or farther for an average iron strike, but I can't control my distance that precisely anyway.

"Golf is an entire game built around making something that is naturally easy - putting a ball into a hole - as difficult as possible." - Scott Adams

Mid-priced ball reviews: Top Flight Gamer v2 | Bridgestone e5 ('10) | Titleist NXT Tour ('10) | Taylormade Burner TP LDP | Taylormade TP Black | Taylormade Burner Tour | Srixon Q-Star ('12)


Posted

I usually play a penta the whole round and sometimes I will play a pro v but I never switch between the 2 during a round. Now in the winter and early spring I will play D2 feel or whatever because the greens are soft enough that I typically don't have to worry about spin.

Driver: i15, 3 wood: G10, Hybrid: Nickent 4dx, Irons: Ping s57, Wedges: Mizuno MPT 52, 56, 60, Putter: XG #9 

Posted

depends on the day... if the greens are rolling too much i'd switch from a prov1x to a nike platinum, vice versa


Posted

I only play ProV1's and ProV1x's. ProV1's on harder greens where I need more spin and ProV1x's on softer greens where I don't need as much spin. If you play often enough you almost need to stick with one ball. It helps alot around the green when you know what it's going to do and on your approach shots where you know if you can go passed the pin and spin it back or leave it out in front of the pin and let it release up to it.

Career Bests:

9 Holes--37 @ The Fairways at Arrowhead-Front(+2)

18 Holes--80 @ Carroll Meadows Golf Course(+9)

 

Home Course:

1) The Fairways at Arrowhead

2) Mayfair Country Club


Posted

I play the same ball (Srixon AD333) to take the blame out of my poor game. The same ball usually responds the same way off the club. Its easy for me to blame a different ball for my poor performance when Im using something different. Its part of my mental struggle. :)

Titleist 909D2 Driver,   Adams F11 3 wood,    Adams Pro Gold 3 hybrid,   ,

Mizuno JPX 800 Pros w/ KBS Tour stiff  4 - GW,   Nike VR Pro 54 & 58 Wedges, Nike Method 001 Putter,

Nike 20XI X ball in an Titleist Lightweight stand bag.


Posted

I like to play with one specfic kind of ball, I will try others from time to time, but for the last 3 or 4 years I have been playing Taylormade TP Reds.  Back in the day ball selection wasn't much of an issue, weren't many to choose from, I played the Titleist Balata 90.  It was the same ball every year so I didn't really ever have to think about what ball I was going to play.  I haven't taken to the Pro V1, but I haven't given them much of a tryout either.  Next season I will be needing balls and will give the Pro V1 a good workout and go from there.

Craig 

Yeah, wanna make 14 dollars the hard way?


Posted

I like to play whatever I found in the woods on the previous hole.  Just kidding (well, not really)  As a beginner I don't think my game warrants spending a lot on balls since I still occassionally lose one or two a round.  I am beginning to think a low spin ball will help with my game though and keep more balls in the fairway.


Posted

I suspect that playing with the same ball all the time would help one be more consistent.  Having said that I play with OPB (other people's balls) a lot as it is cheaper and I always seem to leave the course with more balls than I came with.  I sort them out and keep the ones I like and give the rest to Grandkids or Charity.  So if I was not so frugal (Cheap my Mrs says) I would purchase the NXT tour as it seems to fit my game best for the dollar.  Hard to beat the ProV1 however if you don't care about cost (other than the cover is sort of dull and not as easy to find in the rough as the whiter white covers).

Butch


Posted

Is there a time when you drive one ball and use another ball around and on the greens? For instance, if I use a ball off the tee that has less spin to control my sometimes wicked tee shots, would it be a good idea (or even legal??) to switch to a ball that uses more spin once I get around the greens? Or just stick with the same ball?


Posted

Originally Posted by Flyman

Is there a time when you drive one ball and use another ball around and on the greens? For instance, if I use a ball off the tee that has less spin to control my sometimes wicked tee shots, would it be a good idea (or even legal??) to switch to a ball that uses more spin once I get around the greens? Or just stick with the same ball?


This is not permitted unless you are switching balls under a rule that permits it, which normally means a lost ball---you probably don't want to work that into your strategy just to get a little control around the greens :-)

In the bag:
FT-iQ 10° driver, FT 21° neutral 3H
T-Zoid Forged 15° 3W, MX-23 4-PW
Harmonized 52° GW, Tom Watson 56° SW, X-Forged Vintage 60° LW
White Hot XG #1 Putter, 33"


Posted

It is not remotely legal to switch balls in the middle of the hole. How would you even do that without cheating(assuming lift, clean, and place isn't in effect)? In general you could switch between hole (i.e. long ball on the par 5, super spinner on the short Par 3) if the One Ball rule isn't in effect.

Originally Posted by Flyman

Is there a time when you drive one ball and use another ball around and on the greens? For instance, if I use a ball off the tee that has less spin to control my sometimes wicked tee shots, would it be a good idea (or even legal??) to switch to a ball that uses more spin once I get around the greens? Or just stick with the same ball?




Posted

I'm very new to the game, which is why I'm asking.

Originally Posted by x129

It is not remotely legal to switch balls in the middle of the hole. How would you even do that without cheating(assuming lift, clean, and place isn't in effect)? In general you could switch between hole (i.e. long ball on the par 5, super spinner on the short Par 3) if the One Ball rule isn't in effect.




Posted

I'm too inconsistent - I rarely get enough spin to worry about it ... I did spin a 120 yard low 9 iron back 4 ft last week with a top flight ... that was pretty cool.    For me, I don't do it enough yet to foot the bill for high dollar spinney balls...

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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  • Posts

    • Day 254 5-4 Arms off chest in backswing and downswing. Short swing, pause and then hit.  Hit foam balls. Keeping arching of wrist a focus as well. 
    • I would think of it in terms of time. The time it takes to get the arm angle into a good position to deliver the club with proper shaft lean. Another component is rotation, but that is also a matter of timing. It relates to how the body stalls to give the golfer time to hit the ball. If you have to get 80+ degrees out of that right elbow in one third of a second versus 50 degrees in the same time then you have to steal time from somewhere. It is usually body rotation. That does not help with shaft lean.  I agree in that amateurs tend to make the swing more complicated than pro golfers. 
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    • Day 580 - 2026-05-04 Played eight holes. Sometimes golf kicks you in the nuts. 😉 
    • I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
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