How would you play this shot (if you were me) -->

[golfaddiction]

I would also consider getting a 2 hybrid.  I can usually hit my 2h 210-220 and fairly accurately.  My 3w goes up to 240, but is more erratic.  I often take the 2h and come up a bit short because I know I can hit it straight.

[WUTiger]

Originally Posted by Harmonious

Rather than admit "defeat" by laying up, I would suggest you work hard on your short game, so that you can convert more up-and-down opportunities from within 30 yards.  That way, a wayward fairway wood shot won't be so disastrous in your mind, which might free up your swing and allow you to hit more of those long par 4's.

Depends on the situation. If you're need to carry the shot 210 yd. over a large, deep bunker, take a 5W or a hybrid and lay up to in front of the green, to the safe side. You can be "within 30 yards" and have a chance for an up-and-down.

Laying back/laying up is OK if you're really good with the full wedges, but mid-HDCP can probably score better from 30 yds. out than 110 out - especially on windy days.

If there's no serious danger, go for it - unless it's a bad day for the 3W.

Also, shore up the 3W. Play a shorter course, and leave the driver in the bag. The 3W really starts grooving when you hit it 16 times a round.

[sean_miller]

Originally Posted by inthehole

I'm your basic average length driver (240-ish), typically wind up with 200-220 yards in on ALOT of par 4's, or if something for whatever reason goes wrong somewhere in the first two shots.

Didn't read the entire thread, so this was likely covered a few times, but it sure sounds like you're on the wrong set of tees. If my driver was ~ 230 and I was left with 210, I'd lay up. Right now 210 is between a 4 and 5-iron and I still sometimes hit a bail out approach. One that if fading or drawing just right will hit the green, but if it stays straight will be in a good place to chip from. I might also take less club and play for the chipping area fronting most of our greens.

[M2R]

You could simply move up and play the reds on #5 (444 to 376), #9 (451 to 377), and #14 (452 to 318).

That would leave the total length at 6440 and you would need to manually post rounds using 69.7/111 rating and slope to account for the changes.

Those might not be the correct holes to move tees on because they may play sharply downhill or some consideration other than raw length comes into play.

However, the idea is that if just a few holes are outside your reach then move up on those particular holes and adjust the rating and slope accordingly.

[inthehole]

Originally Posted by golfaddiction

I would also consider getting a 2 hybrid.  I can usually hit my 2h 210-220 and fairly accurately.  My 3w goes up to 240, but is more erratic.  I often take the 2h and come up a bit short because I know I can hit it straight.

I had an Adams A4 2h, and it didn't agree with me - I need to play regular shafts & I couldn't find a single manufacturer who makes a 2h with a regular shaft - they're all without exception stiff shafted.   I guess they figure, an average slow speed swinging high handicapper doesn't have any business playing a 2h & couldn't get the ball up in the air with one ???     Never understood that  ...

[sean_miller]

Originally Posted by inthehole

Quote:

Originally Posted by golfaddiction

I would also consider getting a 2 hybrid.  I can usually hit my 2h 210-220 and fairly accurately.  My 3w goes up to 240, but is more erratic.  I often take the 2h and come up a bit short because I know I can hit it straight.

I had an Adams A4 2h, and it didn't agree with me - I need to play regular shafts & I couldn't find a single manufacturer who makes a 2h with a regular shaft - they're all without exception stiff shafted.   I guess they figure, an average slow speed swinging high handicapper doesn't have any business playing a 2h & couldn't get the ball up in the air with one ???     Never understood that  ...

I've found typical 2-hybrid S shafts to be weaker than a typical 2-iron steel R shafts. To get a real S shaft comparable to the 2-iron it's replacing you'd need an aftermarket S shaft or an X shaft. Basically the manufacturers are not mistaken. If you can't handle their stock S shaft you probably should look at 7-woods.

[sean_miller]

Originally Posted by M2R

You could simply move up and play the reds on #5 (444 to 376), #9 (451 to 377), and #14 (452 to 318).

That would leave the total length at 6440 and you would need to manually post rounds using 69.7/111 rating and slope to account for the changes.

Those might not be the correct holes to move tees on because they may play sharply downhill or some consideration other than raw length comes into play.

However, the idea is that if just a few holes are outside your reach then move up on those particular holes and adjust the rating and slope accordingly.

While probably completely legitimate wrt USGA rules, that seems rather cheaty to me. Either you can handle a certain set of tees or you can't. How about a reality check and moving up for the whole day?!?

[inthehole]

Originally Posted by sean_miller

I've found typical 2-hybrid S shafts to be weaker than a typical 2-iron steel R shafts. To get a real S shaft comparable to the 2-iron it's replacing you'd need an aftermarket S shaft or an X shaft. Basically the manufacturers are not mistaken. If you can't handle their stock S shaft you probably should look at 7-woods.

Makes sense - BUT - I actually bought a 7w recently for this very reason - turns out I hit it shorter & far higher than my 3h.

Based on all the advice here, it all boils down to the 3 wood in my case.      If I put in the time & can develop that shot consistently, I should be able to get close enough for a reasonable up and down attempt on my 3rd shot for these long par 4's.      If it just doesn't work out, I'll listen to the overwhelming response indicating I should move up to the red tee's (which is going to be a tough pill to swallow when all my buddies play from the white's) ...

[sean_miller]

Originally Posted by inthehole

Quote:

Originally Posted by sean_miller

I've found typical 2-hybrid S shafts to be weaker than a typical 2-iron steel R shafts. To get a real S shaft comparable to the 2-iron it's replacing you'd need an aftermarket S shaft or an X shaft. Basically the manufacturers are not mistaken. If you can't handle their stock S shaft you probably should look at 7-woods.

Makes sense - BUT - I actually bought a 7w recently for this very reason - turns out I hit it shorter & far higher than my 3h.

Based on all the advice here, it all boils down to the 3 wood in my case.      If I put in the time & can develop that shot consistently, I should be able to get close enough for a reasonable up and down attempt on my 3rd shot for these long par 4's.      If it just doesn't work out, I'll listen to the overwhelming response indicating I should move up to the red tee's (which is going to be a tough pill to swallow when all my buddies play from the white's) ...

7-wood - yeah that might be the club. I have an older Titleist 19 degree 5-wood that goes just slightly longer than my Callaway 3H. I can see that a similar vintage 7-wood would probably go even shorter.

It's your game though, and if you're comfortable going Driver, 3-wood, wedge on par 4s who are we to judge as long as you're maintaining the pace of play.

[danmalarkey]

Originally Posted by Valleygolfer

How about your drive? Is there anything you can do to get it into the 250's regularly? Have you had your swing checked out? If you are wanting to keep playing the course, maybe some weight shifts or better transfer can get you some more yardage.

I have to agree with this statement! I was a regular 240-265 driver. I brought a new driver + had my swing examined by the golf-pro at Edwin Watts who fitted me for my clubs…and I'm now hitting in the range of 280-300…consistently. It's amazing what little tweaks can do!! Best of luck man.

[B-Con]

I had an Adams A4 2h, and it didn't agree with me - I need to play regular shafts & I couldn't find a single manufacturer who makes a 2h with a regular shaft - they're all without exception stiff shafted.   I guess they figure, an average slow speed swinging high handicapper doesn't have any business playing a 2h & couldn't get the ball up in the air with one ???     Never understood that  ...

Have you looked at the a4 3w? I have, and like, the #3 and #4 Adams a4 hybrids. The 3w is 2* stronger than the 2h and the shaft an inch longer, but the club feels like a hybrid. In fact, they label it as a fairway wood/hybrid combo. If you like the a4 hybrids, you'll probably find the a4 3w comparable to them, so I figured I'd through that out as a possible alternative to the 2h. You can definitely find the 3w in regular flex, and you can probably get them for $40 on eBay. My only complaint is that the stock shaft is a little soft (but they usually are).

[bunkerputt]

Originally Posted by inthehole

I'm your basic average length driver (240-ish), typically wind up with 200-220 yards in on ALOT of par 4's..

You play ALOT of 440-460 yard par-4's?  Seriously.  Play forward.