• Announcements

    • iacas

      GAME GOLF Ryder Cup Contest   09/22/2016

      Join our GAME GOLF Ryder Cup Challenge to win an autographed GAME GOLF, a Pebble Steel watch, and many more great prizes!
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
patches

Game improving drivers

27 posts in this topic

I'm 14 and played high school golf this year, I really injoyed it and plan to do it next year to.  I wanted to upgrade my driver and woods because their starting to show some age.  I right now I am using a Callaway x 420 driver witha  10.5 degree loft and stiff flex.  I am not sure what my 3 wood is, all I know is that its old.  I have a budget of around 300 dollars and would like both a 3 wood and a driver.  I was hoping for some suggestions on what I should look at online before I drive 20 miles to the nearest golf store. thanks

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Want to get rid of this advertisement? Sign up (or log in) today! It's free!

For right around $300 you can get the Callaway Diablo Octane Driver and 3W from Dick's or Golf Galaxy. That's what I got this year to finally replace my old Steelhead III driver and woods and they improved my game drastically as far as distance and consistency.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Originally Posted by GatorCallaway

For right around $300 you can get the Callaway Diablo Octane Driver and 3W from Dick's or Golf Galaxy. That's what I got this year to finally replace my old Steelhead III driver and woods and they improved my game drastically as far as distance and consistency.

Yeah, I was looking at those and the taylor made burner 2.0, my dad uses the original burner and I find that they are to long for me. do you know if the driver/3wood is shorter then the taylor made?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go on Callaway pre-owned.  You can get a nice driver and 3W in like new condition for less than $300.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Originally Posted by patches

I was hoping for some suggestions on what I should look at online before I drive 20 miles to the nearest golf store. thanks

Go to 3balls golf and get a driver in at least Very Good condition.

You will be able to get any current model 3 wood for about $100 and almost any current model driver for under $200.

But......if you want to be really smart, go and get an original Ping Rapture driver for half the price, brand new.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get some of last year's models, I really like my Cobras...the S3 is only $150 now I believe, and the S3 woods should be less. There is also no shame in buying used.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Originally Posted by patches

Yeah, I was looking at those and the taylor made burner 2.0, my dad uses the original burner and I find that they are to long for me. do you know if the driver/3wood is shorter then the taylor made?

I can't speak for the TaylorMade but I know the Diablo driver had a 46" shaft that I had trimmed down to 43.5" by a club fitter. Also had the wood trimmed down to 42" from 43". I couldn't hit the driver consistently until I had it trimmed down but the wood was just personal preference. It costed me 10 bucks altogether for the trimming and reweighting since I bought and eventually installed my own grip.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a list I like to visit when I am in the market... Since I have outgrown the 10.5 but don't hit it a ton I am now using this list....

http://www.golf.com/equipment/golf-magazine-clubtest-2012-drivers

C

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Originally Posted by GatorCallaway

I can't speak for the TaylorMade but I know the Diablo driver had a 46" shaft that I had trimmed down to 43.5" by a club fitter. Also had the wood trimmed down to 42" from 43". I couldn't hit the driver consistently until I had it trimmed down but the wood was just personal preference. It costed me 10 bucks altogether for the trimming and reweighting since I bought and eventually installed my own grip.

I went out and hit the octane today and really liked it, I didnt buy them today but will hope to in a short time, thanks for all the help!

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not a problem. Glad to help. If you really want to save money go with a used Steelhead III 3W. Its a 10 year old club but can be found for under $50. When I had problems controlling my driver I'd use it. Always has been my favorite tee club as far as sound, feel, and performance. I like the Octane 3W but will never get rid of "ol' reliable".

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Patches - a couple quick thoughts...

I would suggest the Callaway Diablo Octane ($150), as the others did (and obviously you said you liked it when you hit it).  Another club I would suggest at least giving a try (even though you already like the Octane) is the Ping G15 ($200 brand new, but you could probaby find a demo or used but in great shape for cheaper).

As far as club length, I would suggest buying the stock length and just choking up on the club a bit.  Then when you are comfortable with the full length of the driver, you won't have to buy a new one.  It's tough to find a driver these days with a shaft length other than roughly 46".  You'd pretty pretty much have to go custom for anything shorter.  Whenever I'm having trouble off the tee, I just tee the ball up a little lower and choke up on the club for control (even though I lose a bit of distance, it's better than being in the woods or lake on rough days).

Good luck with your purchase and next season!

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Originally Posted by tefunk

Patches - a couple quick thoughts...

I would suggest the Callaway Diablo Octane ($150), as the others did (and obviously you said you liked it when you hit it).  Another club I would suggest at least giving a try (even though you already like the Octane) is the Ping G15 ($200 brand new, but you could probaby find a demo or used but in great shape for cheaper).

As far as club length, I would suggest buying the stock length and just choking up on the club a bit.  Then when you are comfortable with the full length of the driver, you won't have to buy a new one.  It's tough to find a driver these days with a shaft length other than roughly 46".  You'd pretty pretty much have to go custom for anything shorter.  Whenever I'm having trouble off the tee, I just tee the ball up a little lower and choke up on the club for control (even though I lose a bit of distance, it's better than being in the woods or lake on rough days).

Good luck with your purchase and next season!I

I will try the G15 next time i'm out at a golf store and thanks for the info on club length.  Good luck yourself!

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you can find a Ping Rapture, BUY IT.

Its almost cheating :D

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Srixon Z-Star drivers and fairway woods are on blow-out sale right now, and you could get both for well under $300.  The best part is that they both come with Miyazaki Dromos shafts, which are still going for $250+ by themselves.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Originally Posted by ApocG10

If you can find a Ping Rapture, BUY IT.

Its almost cheating :D

I've got one of the original Rapture's.   I swapped out the stock shaft for an NVS and I can't seem to part with it.   I've hit virtually every driver made yet I can't find anything that feels or performs as well.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hit some g15 black dot irons. Loved em. I watched my buddy hit the g20 and just smashed it.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you like a driver but the shaft is too long, it's very easy to cut down the shaft. I blow off the original grip with compressed air (sometimes takes up to 100 PSI, don't forget to put a piece of pipe or tubing over the grip to prevent "blowouts"), wrap masking tape around the butt end (easier to mark and helps contain the graphite fibres), and make the cut with an abrasive wheel (I have a 7" chop saw just for shafts). You can then re-grip with something else, or put the original grip back. Most people use gripping tape and solvent, but I prefer 2" masking tape and compressed air - allowing me to use the club immediately and making it easier to remove it in future should I need to do so.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Originally Posted by Brian Fergusson

If you like a driver but the shaft is too long, it's very easy to cut down the shaft. I blow off the original grip with compressed air (sometimes takes up to 100 PSI, don't forget to put a piece of pipe or tubing over the grip to prevent "blowouts"), wrap masking tape around the butt end (easier to mark and helps contain the graphite fibres), and make the cut with an abrasive wheel (I have a 7" chop saw just for shafts). You can then re-grip with something else, or put the original grip back. Most people use gripping tape and solvent, but I prefer 2" masking tape and compressed air - allowing me to use the club immediately and making it easier to remove it in future should I need to do so.

Do your grips slip when you only use masking tape? I've heard of this before but never really trusted the grip to abuse without double sided tape.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • 2016 TST Partners

    GAME Golf
    PING Golf
    Lowest Score Wins
  • Posts

    • No offense, but in my opinion this makes you unprepared to discuss it.
    • Every year, something is changed in a club design.  The real differences are minimal, assuming your current clubs are from within the last 10 or so years (just throwing out a random number).

      However, I just got upgraded to the Ping G driver from the Ping G30, and the big change I noticed is the face of the driver has a bit more friction on the G (at least as I understand it).  What it seems to do is reduce side spin, while retaining normal-ish back spin (I use the low-spin tec version).  When I miss-hit a drive with my old driver vs the newer one, I see noticeably less slice or hook with the newer version.
        When I go through those articles, I mostly read through the reviews of them.  It gives a better idea of what might be better.
    • Right, but then you're just getting into however different people value different things (including money, the performance of their golf clubs, the looks of the golf clubs, the value of a name brand, etc.). People have different values. For something like this, there's rarely any agreement on those, nor is there any "right" or "wrong" answers. I use a set of muscle backs that could just as easily be from the 1950s as now. The tech on those isn't really improving much (though the shafts are undoubtedly much better).
    • We went round and round a bit on this last year, but I don't remember seeing decision 15-3b/1 mentioned.  The difference between this decision and 27/6 seems to be that B's ball is found in a timely manner.  The finding of the "other" ball makes it virtually certain that A's ball was moved by an outside agency (Player B).  In the other thread, B's ball is never found.  27/6 allows the same kind of relief as long as the "other" ball is found within the 5-minute search limit.  As I read the rules and decisions, this is a timing issue,  the rules require a decision to be made within 5 minutes of beginning the search for A's ball.  If the "other ball" isn't found, its presumed lost.   In a way this is somewhat similar to another discussion we had, where a player's ball apparently hit a cart path and went much further than anticipated.  He searched and didn't find it at the expected distance, went back and played another tee shot for the lost ball, and eventually found the original much closer to the green.  He couldn't then put the original into play and "negate" the second tee ball, as he'd already searched for 5 minutes. I don't know if the difference in the timing of the discovery is adequate justification for the different outcomes, but that seems to me to be the defining factor.  It would be interesting to get the take of some of the USGA rules experts on this, not on what the rules say, but on why they draw the distinction.
    • I'd have thought there would be a sliding scale, akin to a volume discount. Not just $x/18 = per-hole cost. Or if there are obvious points where it's not terrible to get back to the clubhouse, make 3-hole, 7-hole, 11-hole, 15-hole, and 18-hole rates. Then you could even consider the par of the holes. Heck, if the course started par 5, 4, 5 I'd be tempted to just play the first three holes three times.  I'd get more for my money than playing holes 4, 5, and 6 which are pars 3, 4, 3.
  • TST Blog Entries

  • Images

  • Today's Birthdays

    1. bandstan
      bandstan
      (46 years old)
    2. boobiemiles
      boobiemiles
      (25 years old)
    3. ElsieOlson
      ElsieOlson
      (77 years old)
    4. Matt66
      Matt66
      (26 years old)
  • Blog Entries