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Wish I could stop tipping back with the driver.  I thought I was doing better but apparently not much.  I may need to feel I am almost leaning forward, IDK.  I will keep working at it.  If I could figure out this stupid driver I might actually be a legit 4HC.

Devil's advocate: why?

The driver swing is different than the iron swing, the ball is not on the ground, hitting up is beneficial, etc.

Plus…

That guy on the right only won the U.S. Open last year…

I could probably make a pretty good case that… you should just set up with your head back a little more, then keep it there, that it's trying to get to where it needs to be.

P.S. Heck, if anything, you could "throw" a little more. You're on the "other" side of inline - it's inline too late. Not a lot, but a little…

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

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Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

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Devil's advocate: why?

The driver swing is different than the iron swing, the ball is not on the ground, hitting up is beneficial, etc.

Plus…

That guy on the right only won the U.S. Open last year…

I could probably make a pretty good case that… you should just set up with your head back a little more, then keep it there, that it's trying to get to where it needs to be.

P.S. Heck, if anything, you could "throw" a little more. You're on the "other" side of inline - it's inline too late. Not a lot, but a little…

As for why, I guess the bold is what I was thinking was a possible problem.  Hitting a lot of shots of out the bottom half of the club with very little height even when I hit it fairly well.  I feel if I bump the hips too much or set up with the head back a bit more, I just end of tipping back even more, the club raises too early and starts shutting down too early.   So maybe set up with the head back a bit more and work on keeping the head there?

Point taken.

Nate

:tmade:(10.5) :pxg:(4W & 7W) MIURA(3-PW) :mizuno:(50/54/60) 

 

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Wish I could stop tipping back with the driver.  I thought I was doing better but apparently not much.  I may need to feel I am almost leaning forward, IDK.  I will keep working at it.  If I could figure out this stupid driver I might actually be a legit 4HC.

For me it's like a mixed bag when it comes to my driver. Some days I can get the right motion and just stripe the ball. Others I lean back and all hell breaks loose, duck hooks, huge blocks to the right.

I might recommend doing slow motion work focusing on keeping the head steady while moving the lower body independently. It's more of presetting that tilt at address and keeping it there.

You might want to try to get the feeling of casting the club with the driver. Its a strange thing to do, but it works really well when trying to hit up on the ball. For me its like I want to throw the club with an underhanded toss down the fairway. It might be more of a timing issue with you on this one. I tend to hit my driver thin sometimes as well when trying to hit up on the

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Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

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As for why, I guess the bold is what I was thinking was a possible problem.  Hitting a lot of shots of out the bottom half of the club with very little height even when I hit it fairly well.  I feel if I bump the hips too much or set up with the head back a bit more, I just end of tipping back even more, the club raises too early and starts shutting down too early.   So maybe set up with the head back a bit more and work on keeping the head there?

Sure, try that. You're also going to want to "throw" the club a bit more, as I said. That will lengthen the lever just that little bit, and move the contact slightly higher on the face. As you can see it's not much at all but it's a shorter lever and thus you're catching them a little low.

In other words, you're not catching them low because you're trying to hit up too much. I think you knew that.

For me it's like a mixed bag when it comes to my driver. Some days I can get the right motion and just stripe the ball.

No, I think your swing doesn't change, you're just that little bit better with timing some small piece and you get away with it for 10 of 12 driver holes or something.

You might want to try to get the feeling of casting the club with the driver. Its a strange thing to do, but it works really well when trying to hit up on the ball. For me its like I want to throw the club with an underhanded toss down the fairway. It might be more of a timing issue with you on this one. I tend to hit my driver thin sometimes as well when trying to hit up on the

Yes, but obviously be careful, because you'd both rather be on the "too late inline" side of things than the other.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

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Sure, try that. You're also going to want to "throw" the club a bit more, as I said. That will lengthen the lever just that little bit, and move the contact slightly higher on the face. As you can see it's not much at all but it's a shorter lever and thus you're catching them a little low.

In other words, you're not catching them low because you're trying to hit up too much. I think you knew that.

No, I think your swing doesn't change, you're just that little bit better with timing some small piece and you get away with it for 10 of 12 driver holes or something.

Yes, but obviously be careful, because you'd both rather be on the "too late inline" side of things than the other.

Got it, thanks!  The shorter lever problem makes sense.  I will work on the throw feeling as well to make it a touch longer hopefully.

Nate

:tmade:(10.5) :pxg:(4W & 7W) MIURA(3-PW) :mizuno:(50/54/60) 

 

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Power has been out all day at work. Decided to hit the range and work on the "throw" feeling with better results. Nice high draws for a number of the swings. Hit some hooks as well while struggling with trying to figure out the head back a bit. I will have to keep working on that to find the right position. Overall much better though.

Nate

:tmade:(10.5) :pxg:(4W & 7W) MIURA(3-PW) :mizuno:(50/54/60) 

 

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it has been raining all week but I could not take it anymore and headed out into the fog and drizzle this morning for nine holes.  Hit the driver much better.  Still having problems with the 3W off the deck.  Hit a shot that would have been perfect had I been able to get it more than 6' off the ground. :-D Thank gawd I have a shallow faced 7 wood right now. The misses were very manageable and I got up and down pretty well.  I played better than the only 3 greens I hit.  I continue to be blown away by how much better I hit the s55 irons in the long and mid irons than I hit my old i20 irons.  My iron play in general is the best it has ever been right now.

Nate

:tmade:(10.5) :pxg:(4W & 7W) MIURA(3-PW) :mizuno:(50/54/60) 

 

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it has been raining all week but I could not take it anymore and headed out into the fog and drizzle this morning for nine holes.  Hit the driver much better.  Still having problems with the 3W off the deck.  Hit a shot that would have been perfect had I been able to get it more than 6' off the ground.   Thank gawd I have a shallow faced 7 wood right now. The misses were very manageable and I got up and down pretty well.  I played better than the only 3 greens I hit.  I continue to be blown away by how much better I hit the s55 irons in the long and mid irons than I hit my old i20 irons.  My iron play in general is the best it has ever been right now.

So what is different between the i20 and the s55's?

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

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Nice hole out on 5!

Thanks, it was actually a super easy chip just off the fringe.  Only about 25' or so with very little break.  You still have to hit it though I guess.

That is a very tough hole at 440 yards because the tee shot is severely up hill, and you are usually hitting hybrid or a fairway wood in.  I hit a good drive on it today the pin was in the front and I hit a decent 5 iron from 180 to the right front fringe.

So what is different between the i20 and the s55's?

Less offset, so in the long irons I feel I can aim them more naturally at address.  My start lines have been better and I don't tend to get my occasional once a round over-draw much anymore.  I curve them less overall for some reason which I like.  But they are easier to hit a fade if for some reason(not often) I need to.  With the i20 irons I would often have to start the ball at the right side of the green to just outside the right edge of the green just to bring it back into the middle.  The smaller head size is easier to hit out of the rough as well.  The sole design actually slides through the turf much easier, and they are surprisingly forgiving off toe hits even though I don't miss to that side as much.  It is a more natural fit into my Edel wedges as well with the turf interaction.  I really like them, I just hope they don't have any peeling problems.  Fingers crossed.

Nate

:tmade:(10.5) :pxg:(4W & 7W) MIURA(3-PW) :mizuno:(50/54/60) 

 

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Very nice round bud. Do you feel like you can shape shots a smaller amount with the S55's? I saw a video online where the guy was testing a blade style club vs a GI club for curve. What he found was it was easier to hit subtle fades and draws with the blade style. He could cure the GI's but it seemed to be either straight or a big curve. I was just curious if your seeing that.
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Very nice round bud. Do you feel like you can shape shots a smaller amount with the S55's? I saw a video online where the guy was testing a blade style club vs a GI club for curve. What he found was it was easier to hit subtle fades and draws with the blade style. He could cure the GI's but it seemed to be either straight or a big curve. I was just curious if your seeing that.

That is it exactly for me.  So if I start the ball now a couple yards right of the center of the green and miss with a little push, I might still be on the green or am hitting little chips like today.  Before, if I am starting it at the right edge and hit a little push I am pitching from a tougher spot.

Nate

:tmade:(10.5) :pxg:(4W & 7W) MIURA(3-PW) :mizuno:(50/54/60) 

 

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Very nice round bud. Do you feel like you can shape shots a smaller amount with the S55's? I saw a video online where the guy was testing a blade style club vs a GI club for curve. What he found was it was easier to hit subtle fades and draws with the blade style. He could cure the GI's but it seemed to be either straight or a big curve. I was just curious if your seeing that.

I am not entirely sure that blades are easier to curve than cavity back irons, or other GI type irons. Fairway woods and drivers are suppose to have the highest MOI, same with hybrids. I can tell you it is pretty easy to curve and fade those clubs. Honestly, I don't think the whole GI tech impedes the ability to work the ball left and right. The ball still reacts to the clubface angle, the swing path, and will curve accordingly. I don't think moving the weight away from the center of the clubface, and behind the ball makes that much of a difference on working the ball left and right. I think what might be more important is controlling the height of the ball. This is were GI clubs get into trouble because they tend to be higher launching.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

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But they are easier to hit a fade if for some reason(not often) I need to.

I would assume that this is because ...

Less offset,

of this, no?

P.S.  Could you do me a favor and stop talking about how great these irons are.  You're planting a seed in my head that I don't need!! :beer:

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I would assume that this is because ...

of this, no?

P.S.  Could you do me a favor and stop talking about how great these irons are.  You're planting a seed in my head that I don't need!!

Offset might help a tad, depending on how new the irons are for him, it is probably a timing thing. Given that most offset between the 5 irons is 0.05 inches. I am not sure that is that big of a difference. It's probably some small fraction of a degree.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

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I am not entirely sure that blades are easier to curve than cavity back irons, or other GI type irons. Fairway woods and drivers are suppose to have the highest MOI, same with hybrids. I can tell you it is pretty easy to curve and fade those clubs. Honestly, I don't think the whole GI tech impedes the ability to work the ball left and right. The ball still reacts to the clubface angle, the swing path, and will curve accordingly. I don't think moving the weight away from the center of the clubface, and behind the ball makes that much of a difference on working the ball left and right. I think what might be more important is controlling the height of the ball. This is were GI clubs get into trouble because they tend to be higher launching.

I think it was Mark crossfield who did the test and he didn't say it was easier to curve. He said it was easier to hit small draws and fades. He could actually curve the cavities more if I'm remembering correctly. The way he made it seem was that the cavities were either a bigger curve of no curve. With the blades he could hit a very small shape.

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