Cutting down a shaft same as shorter shaft?

[StefanUrkel]

I'm returning clubs for PGA value. All 8 irons need to be same shaft weight, shaft flex, same brand,etc.  I only have the head of the 8 iron and need the shaft. The 8 iron shaft isn't available.  If I order the same brand shaft of the 5 iron(same taper, same flex), and have this cut down a few inches, will it be the same everything as the 8 iron shaft would have been?  Thanks

[Lihu]

1 minute ago, StefanUrkel said:

I'm returning clubs for PGA value. All 8 irons need to be same shaft weight, shaft flex, same brand,etc.  I only have the head of the 8 iron and need the shaft. The 8 iron shaft isn't available.  If I order the same brand shaft of the 5 iron(same taper, same flex), and have this cut down a few inches, will it be the same everything as the 8 iron shaft would have been?  Thanks

@WUTiger, what do you think?

[DaveP043]

14 minutes ago, StefanUrkel said:

I'm returning clubs for PGA value. All 8 irons need to be same shaft weight, shaft flex, same brand,etc.  I only have the head of the 8 iron and need the shaft. The 8 iron shaft isn't available.  If I order the same brand shaft of the 5 iron(same taper, same flex), and have this cut down a few inches, will it be the same everything as the 8 iron shaft would have been?  Thanks

What shaft are you looking for?  If this is a taper-tip iron shaft, you can't simply butt-trim a longer iron shaft and have it work out right, flex-wise. If its a parallel-tip shaft, its not sold for a specific iron, you trim from both ends to get the right length and consistent flex for each iron.

[Piz]

Parallel bores only: measure the bore depth of your 8 iron.  Then measure from the top of the hosel to the first step on both your 7 and 9 irons.  The difference will, most likely, be one inch.  Whatever it is - divide by two.  Tip trim the raw shaft such that the distance from the bottom of the bore to the first step falls exactly between that of the 7 and 9 iron.  That will do for the flex.  For playing length: insert a 1/2 inch dowel into the grip you intend to use and mark the depth.  Compare that to the overall length of the grip.  That will tell you how thick the butt cap is...and how much to allow for it when you trim the butt.

[StefanUrkel]

18 minutes ago, DaveP043 said:

What shaft are you looking for?  If this is a taper-tip iron shaft, you can't simply butt-trim a longer iron shaft and have it work out right, flex-wise. If its a parallel-tip shaft, its not sold for a specific iron, you trim from both ends to get the right length and consistent flex for each iron.

X100 dynamic golf. parallel. .370. So, if I buy it and trim it, it would be the expected shaft flex, shaft weight as expected?

[1badbadger]

If the shaft is still in production, you should be able to match it up.  Most brands offer more than one model, so you'll need to know which model it is and the flex.  Like Dave said, if it's a taper tip shaft you can order an 8 iron shaft which will just need to be butt-cut to the correct length.  If it's a parallel tip shaft it will need to be tip trimmed appropriately then butt-cut to the playing length.  

Hopefully the grip can be matched up as well.  If it's got the club manufacturer's logo or something like that it might be tough to find one, but if it's a common aftermarket grip it's no problem.  

To avoid drawing attention to that club, try to match the ferrule to the rest of the set, and if the other iron shafts have a shaft band, use the same type and apply it to the same part of the shaft as the others.  When the clubs are lined up next to each other, a shaft band that is not in-line with the others sticks out like a sore thumb and will be examined closely for other differences.  

13 minutes ago, StefanUrkel said:

X100 dynamic golf. parallel. .370. So, if I buy it and trim it, it would be the expected shaft flex, shaft weight as expected?

Yes

[WUTiger]

If it's a parallel shaft, you buy it in the DG X100 and follow the trimming instructions. All raw DG X100 shafts are 41 inches long. The fitter has to tip trim for iron #, and then butt trim to length after insert into hosel. The Trim Instructions contain these details. (Note the cautions.)

[1badbadger]

Urkel, what brand/model head are you re-shafting?  The reason I'm asking is because most OEM heads (not all, but the large majority) use tapered hosels.  The step pattern on a Dynamic Gold taper tip shaft is slightly different than a parallel tip shaft. , Plus it won't fit.  Just want to make sure before you go to the time and effort to buy a shaft that it's the correct one!

[WUTiger]

This is a parallel tip shaft, so all X100 raw shafts come in at 41 inches long. The clubfitter then follows the Trim Instructions, and:

* Trims tip for the appropriate iron #
* Inserts tipped shaft into hosel (epoxy into place)
* Butt trims shaft to length (note, allow 1/8" for the cap end of the grip. Measure 7i and 9i to see their total length; some fitters forget to allow for the 1/8" grip cap overhang)

16 minutes ago, StefanUrkel said:

X100 dynamic golf. parallel. .370. So, if I buy it and trim it, it would be the expected shaft flex, shaft weight as expected?

If the original club assemblers followed standard trim guidelines, yes. But, if your fitter comes close, it will work for a trade-in.

[StefanUrkel]

Just realized it is .355. I bought  the 8 iron zm head

[StefanUrkel]

Sorry for the ignorance. If I have two different clubs with tepered .355 shafts X100 true tempered gold, I can switch the shafts, and nothing will change on shaft weight and flex? The club is a titleist zm pitching wedge, and I found many ping, titleist gap and lob wedges with x100 shafts.

[WUTiger]

0.355 = taper tip, so you would need to order an x100 shaft tipped for 8 iron. If you take a PW shaft, you would probably have to extend it 1" to get the right length for 8 i. If you did this, the shaft would play as a hardstep, which 1/3 flex stiffer than X100. (The X100 offers the same tipped shaft for 9i through SW).

Having trouble  finding X100 8i? Probably because people are ordering them to insert into wedges, to give the wedges a softstep. This is a trick which Nicklaus and others used back before the days of factory Wedgeflex shafts.

A quick look at GolfWorks shows X100 8i shafts as IN STOCK. Why not order a new X100 for $22 and get on with your life.

[1badbadger]

6 hours ago, StefanUrkel said:

Sorry for the ignorance. If I have two different clubs with tepered .355 shafts X100 true tempered gold, I can switch the shafts, and nothing will change on shaft weight and flex? The club is a titleist zm pitching wedge, and I found many ping, titleist gap and lob wedges with x100 shafts.

You won't be able to use a wedge shaft for the 8 iron.  The reason is that the first step is lower on a wedge shaft than an 8 iron shaft.  When lined up, the shafts should look like this:

The bottom shaft in the pic is the wedge.  The next one up is the 9 iron, which will have the same first step as the wedge. The 8 iron will be 1/2" higher than that and so on.  

If you can't find an 8 iron shaft, you can get away with using a 7 iron shaft and tipping 1/2" or just slightly less, then butt-cut to the proper 8 iron length.

[Hacker James]

44 minutes ago, 1badbadger said:

You won't be able to use a wedge shaft for the 8 iron.  The reason is that the first step is lower on a wedge shaft than an 8 iron shaft.  When lined up, the shafts should look like this:

The bottom shaft in the pic is the wedge.  The next one up is the 9 iron, which will have the same first step as the wedge. The 8 iron will be 1/2" higher than that and so on.  

If you can't find an 8 iron shaft, you can get away with using a 7 iron shaft and tipping 1/2" or just slightly less, then butt-cut to the proper 8 iron length.

in regards to step patterns. I worked in QA for Acushnet several years back. The procedure for measuring step patterns leaves a lot to be desired. They simply take a master shaft for each length iron and lay several of the same length side by side and eye ball them to see if they line up. This was quite a few years ago, maybe today it is done by laser, but I really do not know. Same as for head weights. Usually done by a person in receiving, title is "weigh and sort" This is an entry level position of the lowest level. The tolerances are not that great and the scales used not very high tech either. 

[Buckeyebowman]

Short answer, NOT NECESSARILY!

[Lagavulin62]

On 1/29/2017 at 9:36 PM, Hacker James said:

in regards to step patterns. I worked in QA for Acushnet several years back. The procedure for measuring step patterns leaves a lot to be desired. They simply take a master shaft for each length iron and lay several of the same length side by side and eye ball them to see if they line up. This was quite a few years ago, maybe today it is done by laser, but I really do not know. Same as for head weights. Usually done by a person in receiving, title is "weigh and sort" This is an entry level position of the lowest level. The tolerances are not that great and the scales used not very high tech either. 

You know I never thought about that. That is just crazy. Thanks for sharing. 

I worked in a cabinet factory years ago. We had a huge assembly line. I was step number  one. I took the fork and brought in the stacks of raw wood. I would lay a piece, sometimes two, on the saw to be cut according to various sizes. All measured by hand. Once cut to size I wheeled it down to the next step. Occasionaly my supervisor would come spot check my work. He used the same type tape measure I was using. You can buy these at any hardware store. 

I don't know how they build cabinets these days. But it sort of makes you wonder how we ever did it back in those days. Those were scary times. How did anything ever get pieced together with such precision? I'm so glad we have lasers, computers, and robots to insure quality in work now. I know I sleep better. It always bothered me back then.  

I was 19 fresh out of HS when I worked at the old factory. I haven't been back in years. Wonder if it's still there or if old man Gaddis is even alive?