I am gonna buy an R11 and cut it down to 44"....thoughts?

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=taylormade+r11+44%22&_sacat=0&_odkw=taylormade+r11+driver+shaft&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

I would bet the extra stiffness depending on your swing speed would help accuracy.. I had to have my clubs stepped down and extra stiff shafts to help me. IDK If its really that fast but I swing a 6iron at around 96mph..

Ben hogan used a 43" driver according to his book. I would call taylormade techs and asked them

Quote:

Originally Posted by motteler621 

Ben hogan used a 43" driver according to his book. I would call taylormade techs and asked them

Wasn't Ben Hogan about 4 1/2 feet tall? Just sayin'.

I like shorter drivers too, but you still have to have one that fits.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sean_miller 

Wasn't Ben Hogan about 4 1/2 feet tall? Just sayin'.

 

 

I like shorter drivers too, but you still have to have one that fits.

 

yea thats true, I think he was 5'7. Alot of people on tour use shorter drivers tho and they are alot taller than me.

I don't think it would be a problem except for the shaft stiffness and kickpoint.  You'd have to pick a shaft that would fit your swing after it's shortened or go with a 3w shaft. 

i like 44" drivers and always build them to 44". my swing speed is upwards of 105-110 mph and stiff shafts have worked best for me, although i know how to tip trim to suit me.   cutting from the butt won't change anything but the length.  all aspects of "kick point" and shaft flex are affected by tip trimming only.

i'm a Wishon fan, too.

ex PCS Clubmaker A, ten years clubfitting experience.

just do it.

Cutting from the butt wont effect flex, but it will effect swingweight.  1.75" is worth approximitely 10-11 SW points, and will take the R11 from an advertised D4 down to around C3-C4.  You might notice it, you might not.  But you can always add weight to the head, or a lighter grip, to bring it back up. 

But I wouldn't let that stop you from cutting it.  Best thing I ever did was to cut my 45.5" Diablo down to 44". 

If you want to cut it down by almost 2 inches you should consult a clubmaker or rep on this one.  Taking it off the butt end will make it slightly stiffer and will change the kickpoint and weighting. By adding a significant amount weight to the clubhead you are then changing another dynamic. I am sure there are custom orders for 44" shafts that will get the weighting right for what you want without trying to guess. 

Cutting your R11 shaft down to 44.00" from the normal 45.75" won't cause any changes in either kickpoint or flex stiffness. Also, please note that if you're ordering a R11 TP version, the finished length of the club is 45.25". That's because the shaft is 0.50" shorter (but trimmed) than the shafts in the 45.75" non-TP versions.

FYI, all premium shafts are designed to be butt trimmed to reach the desired length without affecting playability. This allows shafts to be used in either drivers or fairway woods. The only time that you may affect shaft stiffness or kickpoint is when you but trim a shaft over 4.00". Even then, flex and kickpoint changes would be minimal.

However, as others have stated in previous posts, you will reduce the swingweight of the club when you shorten the shaft's length. The good news is that you'll have the ability adjust that in the R11. You can get your swingweight back up to normal levels by adding heavier head and toe weights to the R11 head if you choose to do so.

Hope that helps.

-Schlebrock-

I had my r9 cut down and inch to 44.5" and I swear it made it stiffer.  If not, something changed in the characteristics of the club.  It changed so much that I am considering going with an aftermarket shaft.

Does anybody know if shaft companies sell shafts that would end up making the club 44" vs cutting down a 46" shaft?

It shouldn't affect the stiffness of the club, think about your irons..........they are all the same shaft but different lengths and butt trimmed and they don't feel any stiffer.  Your swingweight could change.

On a side note, I think the manufacturers making the clubs so long is getting ridiculous you may hit the occasional ball 15 yards farther but I would seriously doubt anyone is more consistent control and contact wise. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by erock9174 

I had my r9 cut down and inch to 45.5" and I swear it made it stiffer.  If not, something changed in the characteristics of the club.  It changed so much that I am considering going with an aftermarket shaft.

 

Does anybody know if shaft companies sell shafts that would end up making the club 44" vs cutting down a 46" shaft?

 

 

I really doubt the flex changed much at all, especially enough for you to notice.  What did change, by cutting it down 1", is the club's swingweight.  1/2" off the butt end will reduce swingweight 3 points, so you reduced yours by at least 6 SW points.  So if your driver was a D4, for example, it is now a C8-C9.  That will change how the club feels for sure.  Doesn't the R9 have adjustable weights in the head?  If so, increase the weight by a total of 12g to get the swingweight back to where it used to be.

The average graphite shaft is sold in 46" lengths, then trimmed to length.  Some are only butt trimmed to playing length after installation, and some are tip trimmed for flex prior to installation, then butt trimmed for length after install.  The Grafalloy shaft I just got for the driver I'm building is 46" raw, and is only to be butt trimmed for length.

Thanks for the swingweight info.  I planned on trying that a couple weeks ago just never knew how much to add back. 

I plan on trying this before ordering a new shaft. 

My r9 doesnt have adjustable weights, only the FTC adjustments.  The Supertri is the one with the adjustable weights.
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc 

I really doubt the flex changed much at all, especially enough for you to notice.  What did change, by cutting it down 1", is the club's swingweight.  1/2" off the butt end will reduce swingweight 3 points, so you reduced yours by at least 6 SW points.  So if your driver was a D4, for example, it is now a C8-C9.  That will change how the club feels for sure.  Doesn't the R9 have adjustable weights in the head?  If so, increase the weight by a total of 12g to get the swingweight back to where it used to be.

 

The average graphite shaft is sold in 46" lengths, then trimmed to length.  Some are only butt trimmed to playing length after installation, and some are tip trimmed for flex prior to installation, then butt trimmed for length after install.  The Grafalloy shaft I just got for the driver I'm building is 46" raw, and is only to be butt trimmed for length.

 

I have an R9 and wanted to get it down to 44" or so. I saw Rock Bottom Golf had NVS 85 gram reg flex shafts for $15 so I ordered one of those and a new tip from Golfsmith, put it together and trimmed from the butt to play at 44.25".  Total of maybe $50.  The heavier shaft gave me a swing weight of C-9 and the overall weight increased from 321 to 332 grams.  It doesn't feel lighter swinging it even though the swing weight went down.  It does feel a little more solid than the Reax 60 but it doesn't feel more stiff, I thought the Reax felt a little loose.  Solid and loose are completely subjective terms so all I can say is that is the sensation to me.

The shaft in both of my drivers is about 44 1/2", seems to be about the perfect length for me(i'm 5'11").   I think  most tour pros go with shorter shafts to get more accuracy, their swing speeds are so high that they dont need the added shaft length to get the distance they want.   Longer shafts for average amatuers might mean more distance but most likely less accuracy and more frustration.  

i think you should give it a few rounds before you cut. this thing is the best club i have ever touched and the spray pattern is way down from my previous driver.