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3 Wood Shaft in a Driver

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
Anybody have any experience putting a 3 wood shaft in their driver? I got intrigued after reading about it on Andrew Rice's blog and I was wondering if this was something worth experimenting with or if I should just cut down my driver and mess around with the swingweight.

Here's the link: http://www.andrewricegolf.com/2012/10/which-driver-shaft-length/
post #2 of 5

A 3 wood shaft will have been "tipped" by at least 1" and will therefore be stiffer than a driver shaft. If it is an "R" shaft, it will be stiffer than a driver "R" shaft, and if it is an "S" shaft, it will be slightly stiffer than an "S" driver shaft.  This adjustment is made, because a 3 wood head is heavier than a driver head.    In addition, of course,  the 3 wood shaft will be approximately 1" shorter than a driver shaft, but you can lengthen it by removing the grip and epoxying in a shaft extender, cut to correct length, and replace the grip, or alternatively, you can add weight to the driver head-----the equivalent for a 1" shorter shaft would be 6 grams in the head, which can be added as lead tape.


Hope this helps.













In my Piel tan leather bag:-


Ping G2 driver with Dynamic Gold steel shaft R300 (Tipped 1")

Callaway Big Bertha 3 wood (DG R300 steel shaft)

Tom Morris Pro Flight 1 iron with Accles & Pollock stiff steel shaft

Ben Hogan Apex (1999) blade irons with stiff (4) steel shafts

Wilson  R31 Sandy Andy Beryllium Copper sand iron

Chicago Classic 58 degree lob wedge

Golden Ram Tom Watson forged blade putter.

post #3 of 5
Thread Starter 
Helpful, yes thank you. Does it bring up more questions? Sure.

The object here would be to have a shorter than stock driver, probably in the 44.5" range. My current driver now is 46". If I cut it down 1.5", I'd have to add 18g of tape to the head. That seems like a lot of tape. Wouldn't all that tape on the head soften the flex as well?

That's why I posted the question about a 3w shaft. Being that they are shorter, which would reduce swingweight, but are generally heavier than driver shafts, which increase swingweight, what's the end result?

I already have a backup driver that I cut down to 44.5" without making any other adjustments. I can't feel the head at all and I miss in all directions, so I know I have to increase the swingweight.

Sometimes I think I just need to build myself a clubmaking shop.
post #4 of 5

I might be able to be of some assistance. 


Back in Jan I bought a Razr Fit driver, 11.5* A flex.  I'm only 5' 4" and always struggle with driver length.  So I had the Fit shortened to 44.5".  Swingweight was still around a D4.  So I had it shortened again to 44" and with an undersized Winn grip was still at a D0/D1.  Driver felt great but my swing speed improved and the wet noodle stock shaft had to go.


So back in May I took my driver to a Callaway fitter for a shaft fitting.  He pulls out all the standard upgrade offerings and I told him, don't you have anything shorter and he said no, Not really.  At the same time we both said....let's try a 3 wood shaft in it. 


He only had 2 offerings in R flex, the stock Callaway shaft and the Diamana Blue 65 gram. 

The stock shaft was ok but the club was doing some very weird things on his simulator at impact.  We put the Diamana in and it was love at first hit.  Playing length of the club is 43 3/8" which is perfect for me.  I haven't had the club swing-weighted but my guess is it probably falls just short of a D0.  I'm a slower swinger (about 88 mph on avg) and the shaft flex feels perfect for me.  I like a little tip action and this has it. I know most will say that a 3w shaft in a driver should play much firmer than the stated flex but I do not find this to be true at least with my setup.  I have a feeling though that this is because the Fit uses a shaft adapter which adds some weight (it might be marginal) but I think this helps with retaining the proper feel and even though its tipped adds some weight towards the tip end to help out to add some  flex. 


How I got the idea was a couple weeks before my fitting, I had gone to a demo day and TM was there.  I asked the TM rep if I they had any driver shafts shorter than normal and he said no.  I asked if I could chuck a 3 wood shaft in it and he said sure and put the stock RBZ 3w shaft in the R11s 12* head and that combo felt really nice too.  


The key to any shorter driver and getting it to feel right is normally a heavier shaft and heavier head.  If you can swap out weights in the head it makes it all the more easier to build such a club. 


You are correct though, the added weight on the head will make the shaft play looser.  if you fail to add any weight and just shorten from the butt end the shaft will then play much firmer (I learned the hard way...my last driver, Burner SF 2.0 was a Sr flex and I shortened it down to 45" without adding any tip or head weight.  We then put it on a scale and it then played as a Stiff flex.


If you use a normal driver shaft you might want to think about cutting the shaft down in equal parts from the tip and butt sections of the shaft.  I know my buddy added weight to his r9 Supertri and cut from equal sides until he got it down to 44.5",  He plays a stiff flex and says it still feels the same prior to shortening the club. 

post #5 of 5
Thread Starter 
Interesting. Thank you for sharing your experience. I think I'll have to mess around with adding weight before I make a shaft change.
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