Looking for a New Driver

[Matthew62]

Hello all, right now I’m using a arrow burner Taylor made driver regular flex. I seem to have a strong fade. I’m looking for a driver that might be more forgiving. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you

[saevel25]

37 minutes ago, Matthew62 said:

Hello all, right now I’m using a arrow burner Taylor made driver regular flex. I seem to have a strong fade. I’m looking for a driver that might be more forgiving. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you

Any modern driver. Your driver is 7 years old. 

Yea, PING has high MOI and is known to be forgiving. 

I would say any driver that is not super low spinning. So, maybe stay away from any LS version. 

Yea, most current drivers are really good. 

PXG is having a good sale on drivers now. 

 

GEN5 0311XF Driver | Shop High-Forgiveness Golf Drivers at PXG

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Find more forgiveness with our easy to hit PXG GEN5 0311XF Driver. Buy and configure online, phone or with a PXG fitting Specialist today!

 

[Vinsk]

COME ON! Your search is over!

[pganapathy]

If you can, go get yourself fit.  It will help you pick the best driver for your swing.  And don't focus purely on distance gains.  I always suggest dispersion is more important

[Esox]

Pings are probably the most forgiving drivers out there, but in my experience, the create a lot of backspin and aren't exceptionally long. There is however, much to be said about being 10 yards short in the fairway.,.....I found that the Titleist TSI and TSR 2 drivers offer very good forgiveness, but are longer than the Pings. Meanwhile, on the Fairway wood side, for me the Ping G30 is a rocket, spins less than the TSR, but is easy to launch. So I am packing a Titleist driver and Ping fairways.  My stuff doesn't have to match, it just has to work.........

[ChetlovesMer]

1 minute ago, Esox said:

Pings are probably the most forgiving drivers out there, but in my experience, the create a lot of backspin and aren't exceptionally long. There is however, much to be said about being 10 yards short in the fairway.,.....I found that the Titleist TSI and TSR 2 drivers offer very good forgiveness, but are longer than the Pings. Meanwhile, on the Fairway wood side, for me the Ping G30 is a rocket, spins less than the TSR, but is easy to launch. So I am packing a Titleist driver and Ping fairways.  My stuff doesn't have to match, it just has to work.........

I think much of what you typed here is accurate. 
I would suggest though that the OP may or may not want less spin. Yes, lower spin CAN add distance for somebody with higher swing speed. BUT, if the OP has lower swing speed he may need more spin just to keep the ball in the air. 

My suggestion to @Matthew62 would be to find out more about your swing. You say you seem to have a strong fade. Does that mean you have a huge curve out to the right? Or does that mean you hit a power fade? If you are truly hitting a power fade, that's fine. Many great golfers have played a power fade. Dustin Johnson won the Masters hitting a power fade. But if you're hitting a banana ball to the right, then you are leaving tons of yards on the table. 

No matter what a fitter or a club manufacturer will tell you, there isn't a club that will turn your banana to the right into a tight screamer down the middle. If there was, it would be illegal. (The Hammer?...) Anyway, my suggestion would be get with a qualified swing coach. Get good numbers on what you are hitting right now. There are plenty of math programs out there that will tell you for swing speed x, you should get distance y. If you are no where near that then you are not playing a power fade (good), you are hitting a glancing blow across the club face (bad). So, find out your numbers first, if not with a qualified swing coach, which would be ideal. Then at least get on a trackman or GCQuad and do the math yourself. 

Remember, forgiveness in a club just means how repeatable the shots are going to be no matter where you hit the face. (It doesn't mean they are going to be good shots) It just means they are going to be similar shots when you hit high, low, left or right of center on the face. There are of course drivers out there that will help tame that huge curve to the right, but be wary of those also. Many times that's a short term fix that creates a long term problem. If your driver tames your slice, but doesn't cure it, you have to be careful that you don't start doing more of what ever was causing your curvature. Otherwise the problem will just get worse and you'll end up leaving even more distance on the table. That's why you'll probably notice that really modern "draw biased" drivers are much less "draw biased" than the older models (5-10 years ago) were. Otherwise the human swinging the club may just build a tendency to compensate for the draw bias and hit an even bigger fade. 

Sorry for the long winded response. But if you break it all down, here's what I'm suggesting. 

1. Get your swing information first. Are you getting close to optimum distance out of what you have? 
2. If you are, fine. Go get fit for a new driver. (Notice I said get fit, not go buy).
3. If you are not close, go get lessons to improve your swing mechanics first. 
4. Talk to your swing coach about your desire to get a new driver. Ask for his/her suggestions. 
5. Forget about brands of drivers. They all make great drivers these days. You may like one more than another, but there will be far more difference in what's wrapped around the grip than the name written on the bottom of the clubhead.
6. Nearly all driver brands have 2 or 3 different heads (I think Callaway has like 40), they are all adjustable to help tweak your performance (notice I didn't say fix). Once your making a good driver swing, you fine tune it with a new driver. BTW - Don't forget to look at last year's models too. Sometimes a great deal can be had on last years models, and you can still get a professional fitting on them. 
7. Finally, when you get it all sorted. Please let us know what you decided to do and how it turned out. 

Cheers and good luck. 👍

[klineka]

In addition to all the solid advice you've received so far, I also want to point out that you don't NEED a brand new, current model year driver.

If money is no object then sure by all means, but a current model year will likely set you back around $5-600 possibly more if you have to pay for a fitting, but you could get something 1-2 years old for around half that cost and would likely still be a solid step up from what you have now.