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Master "Forged vs. Cast" or "Blade vs. Game-Improvement" Iron Thread


muskegman
Note: This thread is 1433 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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I play with Wilson Staff Goose-Necks. I like the longer face they have and can work theball better than I was doing with my CB clubs. Off center hits let my know right away that I came over the top.
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My understandning is this is why most Pro's still play a blade style iron even with all the forgiveness out there with a GI or SGI club. I know some of them play cavity back irons but most of those clubs are still pretty close (specs) to a blade in offset, bounce, etc...

If you watch more carefully .... you will notice that at least 50-60% of today pro's are using Players Cavity Back irons.

I used to play Wilson Staff Fluid feel about 25 years ago, at that time I used to hit at least 300+ balls per day and spended hour after hour on pitching, chipping, putting etc.... I went to single figure within a few months, but you just have to enjoy working hard to really control blades. After using a lot of SGI and GI sets, even with very low offset like in the TM Tour Preferred iron, I was about to go back to blades, I tried several, but my swing isn't like 25 years ago, a slightly more forgiviness is nice ...... I ended up at the Wilson Staff FG Tour (yesssss I have always been a Wilson Guy), they look to have a big cavity, but they play like a (musscle back) blade set ...... you just have to nail them at the sweetspot, but if you don't you still end up quite well. It will help you becoming a better ball striker if you chose for blades, you'll just simply have to, but I doubt the punishment you will receive on off center hits, will allow you to lower your handicap much ...... maybe it is a nice thought to pick up blades 8-LW and some cavity backs in 3-7 ....

Cal Razr Hawk 10.5 | TM Superfast 3W | Adams Idea Pro Black 20 | MP-68 3-PW | TW9 50/06 + 58/12 | Ram Zebra Putter

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Yawn....

This thread again..

"Shouldnt hit blades, pros like to hit cavity backs like us now".....

blah blah blah

There is no right or wrong answer, however I will say, all the best players I personally know, for some reason play...blades...... I do see more guys trying the AP2 cavity backs lately, but why do they keep the blades? and then, when the $ is on the match, they play the blades? hmm. maybe just comfort level? but its hard to imagine people would risk winning tournaments, matches etc to "look good" they basically are less forgiving than the bigger cavity backs which are game improvement clubs....and seriously that's not news right? That being said, I know players that play the big Ping G15's and score really well, it just depends on the individual and how well they control their swing and hit the sweet spot.

play with what you feel the best with and score the best with. period, no need to justify why you are scared to play blades, or justify why not play cavity backs.. it doesnt matter, just play your game, your clubs and have fun!
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  • Administrator
Yawn....

No, same thread. I keep merging them.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
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maybe it is a nice thought to pick up blades 8-LW and some cavity backs in 3-7 ....

I think Phil has a split set like that. Not sure about other pros but some college players at the range all have split sets. If you are comfortable hitting blade GW, it's probably not too much of a stretch to hit a blade up to 9I or 8I.

The Mizuno MP52 has the more blade design up to 8I.
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  • 3 weeks later...
What will strike the ball farther, forged or cast? I have always thought that the reason most pro's play forged is that they are more consistent than cast. Pro's want to know exactly how far their ball is going to go and cast iron distances can vary from swing to swing. A buddy of mine says that forged should fly farther than cast if struck cleanly. That doesn't explain this: I can't hit my forged 9 iron any farther than 145, yet I can hit his cast 9 iron almost 155 without much effort. Any thoughts?? Am I totally off base with my understanding of the differences between forged and cast irons??
The only thing a golfer needs is more daylight. -Ben Hogan

 
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What will strike the ball farther, forged or cast? I have always thought that the reason most pro's play forged is that they are more consistent than cast. Pro's want to know exactly how far their ball is going to go and cast iron distances can vary from swing to swing. A buddy of mine says that forged should fly farther than cast if struck cleanly. That doesn't explain this: I can't hit my forged 9 iron any farther than 145, yet I can hit his cast 9 iron almost 155 without much effort. Any thoughts?? Am I totally off base with my understanding of the differences between forged and cast irons??

Here's my

opinion . Forged irons are easier to bend - customize and such. Top players are always tinkering and they want this advantage. Forged irons are typically softer, and professionals get their irons for free, so they don't care if they go through a set every year. Forged irons "feel" softer. Whether it's just the sound or if people with advanced hearing loss can still feel the difference is debatable, but if you ever reguarly hit a set of cast irons, a set of softer forged irons (think older Mizunos or MacGregors), or a set of really soft irons (think copper faced irons) you'd know what I'm inferring. Maybe it's the head design and maybe it's the material, but my personal experiences are that cast irons are typically in a more "forgiving" shape that doesn't always lead to precise distance control. It's like a precision racing car - if you're a great driver you'll love the hell out of it, but if you suck, you'll probably suck x 10 and hate the experience.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

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one thing to keep in mind with distance is that no two golf club companies use the same "standard" specs for irons. A 9 iron can range in loft between as low as 40 degrees to as much as 45 or more degrees.

Also, depending on the shaft length and shaft weight it is possible that you are getting more club head speed with the same amount of effort.

remember that with the exception of the driver, FW and possibly a hybrid it isn't how far but how close.

In my bag:

some golf clubs

a few golf balls

a bag of tee's some already broken the rest soon to be

a snickers wrapper (if you have seen me play, you would know you are not going anywhere for a while)

and an empty bottle of water

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Forget about forged vs. cast, it doesn't much matter anymore. The only thing that really matters is the quality and type of metals that are used. Forged or cast doesn't change much about a club. The most important thing is the weighting and metal that is used, not the process used to make it.

Cast can sometimes get a bad rap because they are typically used for game improvement type of irons. Forged gets a good rap because they are associated with 'players' clubs. I am pretty sure all Cleveland clubs are cast, down to their most popular wedges. Even their players clubs are cast and many pros use them. Vokey wedges are cast. No one can tell the difference in cast or forged. The difference they might feel is the club itself. Of course you can tell a difference in the forged Titleist MB vs. the cast AP1, they are totally different clubs. Not because of cast or forged, but because of what is used to make them and the design of them.

I will judge my rounds much more by the quality of my best shots than the acceptability of my worse ones.

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Forget about forged vs. cast, it doesn't much matter anymore. The only thing that really matters is the quality and type of metals that are used. Forged or cast doesn't change much about a club. The most important thing is the weighting and metal that is used, not the process used to make it.

This pretty much sums it up. Take a look at Ping irons. All cast but still great quality and has great performance.

DST Tour 9.5 Diamana Whiteboard
909F3 15* 3 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
909F3 18* 5 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
'09 X-Forged 3-PW Project-X 6.0 Flighted
CG15 56* X-Tour 60* Abaco

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This pretty much sums it up. Take a look at Ping irons. All cast but still great quality and has great performance.

Even Ping is coming out with a players club that is forged.

In my bag:

some golf clubs

a few golf balls

a bag of tee's some already broken the rest soon to be

a snickers wrapper (if you have seen me play, you would know you are not going anywhere for a while)

and an empty bottle of water

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Even Ping is coming out with a players club that is forged.

but that doesn't mean they're creating it for the sole purpose of introducing a players club.

theres a marekt that Ping is missing out on by not creating forged irons which is why they're doing so now. There are a lot of people who dismiss Pings just because they are cast. As far as quality and performance goes, I'm willing to bet the new forged ansers won't provide anything any of their other irons are not already providing.

DST Tour 9.5 Diamana Whiteboard
909F3 15* 3 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
909F3 18* 5 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
'09 X-Forged 3-PW Project-X 6.0 Flighted
CG15 56* X-Tour 60* Abaco

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What will strike the ball farther, forged or cast? I have always thought that the reason most pro's play forged is that they are more consistent than cast. Pro's want to know exactly how far their ball is going to go and cast iron distances can vary from swing to swing. A buddy of mine says that forged should fly farther than cast if struck cleanly. That doesn't explain this: I can't hit my forged 9 iron any farther than 145, yet I can hit his cast 9 iron almost 155 without much effort. Any thoughts?? Am I totally off base with my understanding of the differences between forged and cast irons??

The distance could be anything. Loft, actually hitting the sweet spot, wind, ball, length, lie, shaft, etc.

Plenty of tour pros play cast clubs and don't have a problem with distance control.
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The distance could be anything. Loft, actually hitting the sweet spot, wind, ball, length, lie, shaft, etc.

One key difference (imho) is they're playing players irons - probably iron for iron the same shot shape and distance as similar forged irons. A lot of cast irons (and probably some "forged" irons - forged components fused together) have distance improvement as a selling feature. I had a set like that. I'd fly one green then back off and dunk one in the water - grr. They looked nice though.

Go with what works - regardless of the manufacturing process.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

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but that doesn't mean they're creating it for the sole purpose of introducing a players club.

agreed - I just think its funny that Ping, who has always been the example of a company that does excellent things with cast clubs is now making a forged club. It is also interesting to note that the club is being introduced first in Japan and not America.

In my bag:

some golf clubs

a few golf balls

a bag of tee's some already broken the rest soon to be

a snickers wrapper (if you have seen me play, you would know you are not going anywhere for a while)

and an empty bottle of water

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Share on other sites


One key difference (imho) is they're playing players irons - probably iron for iron the same shot shape and distance as similar forged irons. A lot of cast irons (and probably some "forged" irons - forged components fused together) have distance improvement as a selling feature. I had a set like that. I'd fly one green then back off and dunk one in the water - grr. They looked nice though.

What are "Players Irons"? Are they different than Forged Irons?

The only thing a golfer needs is more daylight. -Ben Hogan

 
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