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Posted
So, for all you guys that work the ball, explain something to me. How does the differing shot shapes effect your distance? Is a draw 7 iron the same as a fade 6 iron? How do you keep up with all those options? I see a lot of people on here talking about working the ball and I want to know the mindset leading up to the differing shot shapes. I see a remarkable amount of mid-handicappers that have all these shot options and I feel left out. Help me!

Cleveland Hibore XL
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Posted
I can work the ball, but have found I play much better when I focus on hitting straight, flush shots. Although I don't have as many "money shots"(inside of 10-15 feet), overall I have been hitting more fairways and greens. The problem is, I don't have the short game to take advantage of it!

Cleveland Launcher DST 10.5*

Ping G15 17*

Mizuno MP-53 4-PW with GS-95

Mizuno MPT-11 Black Nickel 52* and 58* with GS-95

Ping Redwood Anser


Posted
So, for all you guys that work the ball, explain something to me. How does the differing shot shapes effect your distance? Is a draw 7 iron the same as a fade 6 iron? How do you keep up with all those options? I see a lot of people on here talking about working the ball and I want to know the mindset leading up to the differing shot shapes. I see a remarkable amount of mid-handicappers that have all these shot options and I feel left out. Help me!

I try to think of the total travel distance of the ball. If I need to bend a ball about 10 yards, I figure to add maybe 10 yards to the total distance. I was playing a while back, and had to hit a big slice around a tree, and it was about 165, so I pulled a 7 iron. Bad idea. It was 10 yards short. If I can hit my 6 iron about 175-180 straight, I will use it for, say, a 165 yard shot if it has to curve substantially.


Posted
. Although I don't have as many "money shots"(inside of 10-15 feet)...

lol... never heard them called that before. but i'm sure we all could use a few more of those. seriously though, you just gotta swing at your target and take a shorter backswing, club up and swing in rhythm.


Posted
i never really think of shaping the ball unless i absolutely have to cut it around a tree or hook it. on a tucked away pin my target becomes center of the green. unless of course it is a must-birdie hole.

Putter first 
:titleist: newport 2 oil can
:titleist: 58* SM4
:titleist: 54* SM4
:titleist: 50* SM4
:titleist: 4-pw AP2 project X 6.0
:ping: i20 9.5 TFC Stiff


Posted
So, for all you guys that work the ball, explain something to me. I see a remarkable amount of mid-handicappers that have all these shot options and I feel left out. Help me!

... a great deal of mid-handicappers on this forum claim to be able to shape the ball, just not sure if it's on purpose.

my natural shot is a draw, and that's what my distances are based on... if I want to hit a fade, i don't generally count for much difference in distance. when I was playing competitively, a friend and mine went out on the course one day when it wasn't busy, and lasered a bunch of different irons and wedges so we would know how far we hit them. A lot of it is feel as well, just knowing or figuring what it should be often works for me.

Cheers, Allan

In my Ping Hoofer II bag: Titleist 975J | Callaway Big Bertha 3 Wood S2H2 | Mizuno Fli-Hi 18˚ Hybrid | Mizuno MP-33 3-PW | Cleveland Tour Action 900 54/60 | Ping Anser II BeCu | Titleist ProV1

My Playground: Northview G&CC


Posted
Why do I feel like the only person in the world who feels like the best ball is a dead straight one?

-----------------
Driver: Ping G20 10.5
4 wood: Ping G20 16.5
Hybrid: Ping I20 23

5-P: Cleveland CG16 tour

Wedge: Cleveland Cg16 56

Putter: Cleveland classic

Ball: Top Flite D2 feel

 


Posted
Why do I feel like the only person in the world who feels like the best ball is a dead straight one?

I think we all believe that, but when you're stuck behind a tree, how far does it get you? My guess is you play courses that have fairly wide fairways, becuase many courses just won't let you hit straight off the tee, or even on approaches. We're talking about shot shaping when you need to, not all the time. I know how to hit a draw and a fade to get myself out of trouble, but my stock shot is a very mild draw.


Posted
My normal shot shape is 99% of the time a straight shot, I don't work the ball on my usual shot. If I draw the ball I usually add 5 meters and if I fade I usually take off 5 meters. But usually if im drawing or fading the ball im usually doing something else as well. Like hitting a low bullet or hitting a high shot depending on what i need. Alot of thing though make factors of how far I hit it. Wind, how warm it is, is the golf course wet or dry.

Driver: 909D3 8.5* Diamana White Board X
3 Wood: MP 630 15* GRAFALLOY PROLAUNCH RED X
Hybrid: 909H 19* "Real" VooDoo X
3 - P: MP-68 KBS Tour Black Nickel X
56* 10 Wedge Vr60* 06 Wedge: VrPutter: Custom Made.Golf Ball: TOUR B330SI am the greatest, I said that even before I knew I was....


Posted
I am one that usually hits the ball straight. No little draw or fade built in. Anytime I need to work a ball around something the only thing I play for is a little extra roll out when it hits. If I am hitting around something, it is usually because I can't go over it. In such a case, the ball flight will be much lower and won't land soft so roll is expected.

If I do play a regular shot with the intention of moving it right or left (aiming at the center of the green, pin back left, if it draws back to the flag great, if not, oh well), I seem to either hit those further or just misjudge the distance. Not sure which yet. I don't do it enought to have it figured out yet.

I will judge my rounds much more by the quality of my best shots than the acceptability of my worse ones.


Posted
I think most people only 'work' the ball when they really need to. IE-recovery.

The more skilled players definitely have a favored shotshape off the tee, but most seem to favor the straight approach, albeit at varied heights.

I'm a hack & the only time i ever work it is
1-at the range for practice
2-if i need to take something off a club, like the 90yd pw that is fanned open to go high & fade a bit
3-when i least expect it. Set up for a draw & hit it 30 degrees right of right.

Posted
3-when i least expect it. Set up for a draw & hit it 30 degrees right of right.

I also have a lot of potential for randomly working the ball. Lately I've really been working on "straight" as my stock shot.

I probably work the ball on purpose more off the tee where a bit of extra run is okay. Starting the ball on the right edge of the fairway and drawing it slightly it to the left middle leaves me (hopefully) an approach from the left side of the fairway. I prefer those for some strange reason.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
...I probably work the ball on purpose more off the tee where a bit of extra run is okay

I'm the same. I rarely ever work the ball when I shooting at the green. The majority of my shots that I purposely try to work are tee related or recovery shots because I'm behind a tree or something.

The only thing a golfer needs is more daylight. -Ben Hogan

 

Posted
Why do I feel like the only person in the world who feels like the best ball is a dead straight one?

Here's another one. I just love picking a target and seeing the ball flying straight at it. I definitely see the advantage of being able to shape the ball, but generally, I want to hit it straight. Knowing that I can hit it straight with my basic setup also give me more confidence for when I need a shaped shot. If I'm hitting draws all the time, I won't be as confident when hitting a fade.

I think we all believe that, but when you're stuck behind a tree, how far does it get you? My guess is you play courses that have fairly wide fairways, becuase many courses just won't let you hit straight off the tee, or even on approaches. We're talking about shot shaping when you need to, not all the time. I know how to hit a draw and a fade to get myself out of trouble, but my stock shot is a very mild draw.

My home course is the most narrow I've ever played at. You can hardly find a flat fairway and the greens are terribly small. It's not about landing it on the best spot on the green, but about landing it on the green. I play it best when I'm able to hit the ball straight.

Ogio Grom | Callaway X Hot Pro | Callaway X-Utility 3i | Mizuno MX-700 23º | Titleist Vokey SM 52.08, 58.12 | Mizuno MX-700 15º | Titleist 910 D2 9,5º | Scotty Cameron Newport 2 | Titleist Pro V1x and Taylormade Penta | Leupold GX-1

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Posted
Why do I feel like the only person in the world who feels like the best ball is a dead straight one?

No, no, I do believe that too. My natural shot is... straight haha! I can shape a shot, but not all the time so I rather hit it straight.

Greetings!

Driver: 905R 9.5° (UST Proforce V2 Stiff) | Fairway: 906F2 15° (UST Proforce V2 Stiff) | Hybrid: 585.H 21° (S300) | Irons: AP2 4-PW (Project X 6.0) | Wedges: Vokey Design 52.08, 56.11 & 60.11  | Putter: Studio Select Newport 2 

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Posted
My normal shot shape is 99% of the time a straight shot, I don't work the ball on my usual shot.

That is interesting...why would one shaped shot go further than the other...I would have guessed that if I'm shaping, whatever distance I need to make up I would be short from a straight shot..

ie need to bend a shot 10 yards, I may have to club up to make up for the distance loss...but clubbing down....never really thought about it Anyone else makes adjustments for sliced shots?
It's the indian, not the arrow! But it sure is nice to have good arrows!!!!!

Driver : r7 Limited 9.5* Matrix Ozik X-Con 5.5 (Reg) | Fairway: 906F4 15.5* (Reg) | Hybrids: DWS Baffler 3/R 20* (Reg) & Baffler Rail H 4-H 22* (Reg) | Irons: AP1 5-G (Reg) | Wedges: SW - SM56-10 & LW - SM60-04 | Putter:.....

Posted
That is interesting...why would one shaped shot go further than the other...I would have guessed that if I'm shaping, whatever distance I need to make up I would be short from a straight shot..

Think about how you make a ball fade/draw. The easiest way to envision is is take your normal, straight shot swing, but open the face slightly. Now you've effectively increased the loft, so the ball won't go as far. For draw, close the face slightly. Now you've effectively de-lofted the club, and it'll go slightly further.

I realize those shots I just described are bad (push-fade, pull-draw), and it's physically possible to give the ball side spin (and thus shot shape) while keeping the exact same loft, in which case you're intuition would be approximately correct, since a bit of the force of the club is then going to creating sidespin, essentially, instead of pushing the ball forward. But that's not generally what's happening when a player swings the club, and in general you're slightly de-lofting the club to hit a draw and and increasing the loft to hit a fade. Note none of this means I can shape a ball well on purpose. I can hit a fade with a mid or low iron with mediocre consistency, and a draw/hook with low consistency. On my good days when I'm hitting it flush, I'm hitting it straight with the mid to low irons and with a very slight draw with the longer clubs, though, given my handicap, there are many days where the low irons fade more than I want and the longer clubs are either straight pushes or hard hooks.

Matt

Mid-Weight Heavy Putter
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Cleveland CG15 54˚
Nike Vapor Pro Combo, 4i-GW
Titleist 585h 19˚
Tour Edge Exotics XCG 15˚ 3 Wood
Taylormade R7 Quad 9.5˚

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Posted
Think about how you make a ball fade/draw. The easiest way to envision is is take your normal, straight shot swing, but open the face slightly. Now you've effectively increased the loft, so the ball won't go as far. For draw, close the face slightly. Now you've effectively de-lofted the club, and it'll go slightly further.

A draw is caused by an open face to the target line.

Fade is the opposite. I don't bother shaping shots, I have enough trouble hitting a normal draw no need to start messing around with a cut. I can hit one but I wouldn't try it in case I overdo it.

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Note: This thread is 5680 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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