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Saturday morning is booked. We'll be available at about 1 or 2pm Saturday afternoon. The FlightScope will be available for people to chart their Shot Zones. It's not capable of emailing, though, so as dumb as it is, you'll just have to hit your shots, take a photo with your phone, and then clear them and hit the next club.

Cool, thanks. I have golflogix and it maps all my shots with specific clubs. Not sure if I can get coordinates out of it, though.

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Hmmm .... looks like they are about to get themselves some competition:  https://arccosgolf.com/

A few problems I see with that:

1) What if you take a practice swing? Will it register that as impact if you catch turf?

2) What if you have the iPhone on the cart path only in your cart, but your ball is 30 yards away? i.e. What if the iPhone isn't in your pocket?

3) Why's it $50 extra ($150 after "pre-orders" are done)? GAME GOLF is $249. The GPS is on your hip.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
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I'm having them send a few. We may have one as a prize for the MVP at our Erie get-together.

I'm curious about the accuracy, particularly on putts. How does it know where the hole is, for example?

I know for things like the fairway, you can adjust it after the round on your computer to nudge a ball a few yards (since GPS is only within about ten feet or so).

You do the same thing with a putt that you do with your other shots. You mark the start and the end of each putt. It keeps track of how many times you used the putter on that hole. Obviously if you take a gimme it will screw up the readings though.

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You do the same thing with a putt that you do with your other shots. You mark the start and the end of each putt. It keeps track of how many times you used the putter on that hole. Obviously if you take a gimme it will screw up the readings though.

And if you make a 40-footer, you have to show it where the hole is at some point, no? Otherwise it will not know if you made a 40-footer or a 4-footer.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
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And if you make a 40-footer, you have to show it where the hole is at some point, no? Otherwise it will not know if you made a 40-footer or a 4-footer.

There is a way to mark the end of the putt I'm pretty sure. I played with a guy who used one and he did something when he holed out every time to mark the hole. I don't remember if it's a button or what. I can try to get in touch with him to ask if you like.

KICK THE FLIP!!

In the bag:
:srixon: Z355

:callaway: XR16 3 Wood
:tmade: Aeroburner 19* 3 hybrid
:ping: I e1 irons 4-PW
:vokey: SM5 50, 60
:wilsonstaff: Harmonized Sole Grind 56 and Windy City Putter

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There is a way to mark the end of the putt I'm pretty sure. I played with a guy who used one and he did something when he holed out every time to mark the hole. I don't remember if it's a button or what. I can try to get in touch with him to ask if you like.

I'll probably find out for myself soon enough. Thank you for the offer.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
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Yes, I'd eliminate those two. They're outside the 80%. Not the 90%, but they're a stretch, so I'd get rid of them. If you suddenly start missing greens long and left, add them back in.

OK, so here's the updated zone.

I tried to make it as small as possible, but at the same time push the extra "air" towards the two I left out.  This way they're sort of halfway included, instead of having some random dead space short and right.

Guess this simply means I'll be aiming my PW about 5 1/2 yards left of it's preferred final destination from now on and see where that gets me. :beer:

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OK, so here's the updated zone.

I tried to make it as small as possible, but at the same time push the extra "air" towards the two I left out.  This way they're sort of halfway included, instead of having some random dead space short and right.

Guess this simply means I'll be aiming my PW about 5 1/2 yards left of it's preferred final destination from now on and see where that gets me.

This is an impressive shot zone, even for a PW.  80% of the time you land it within 18-20 feet of your average!  That's ridiculously good!  Especially now if you start aiming 15 feet left.  You'll have a reasonable birdie putt 80% of the time, and a really makable short one something like 40%!

Also, @billchao , Themistocles literally made me LOL.  Can't say that happens a ton at TST!

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This is an impressive shot zone, even for a PW.  80% of the time you land it within 18-20 feet of your average!  That's ridiculously good!  Especially now if you start aiming 15 feet left.  You'll have a reasonable birdie putt 80% of the time, and a really makable short one something like 40%!

Also, @billchao, Themistocles literally made me LOL.  Can't say that happens a ton at TST!

Well, I don't know about that.  Certainly, in theory, thats the idea.  I'm going to be aiming my PW about 5 yards left now and see what happens.  (Oh, and I'm going to just to the same exact thing with all of the rest of my clubs, but just scaled up or down a bit)  The edges of that zone would leave me about a 22 foot putt, which I'd always be happy with at this point in my game from that distance.

But that is 80% of 21 consecutive shots at the range.  My bet is that it doesn't exactly correlate on the course, when you don't get to keep re-teeing.  Further, you are supposed to throw out really bad mishits and I had a couple of those.  So it's probably closer to 70% true average.

Also, keep in mind that we're talking about a range that I use all of the time and have hit PW's to that same pole several 100's of times.  When I'm on the course, it's up to me to choose the correct club, and that plays a huge part in hitting the north-south part of that zone.  So factor that in, and it's probably even a lot closer to 60% (or even less) of the time where I might hit a PW within 22 feet.

We shall see.  My next tee time to give this a shot is Friday afternoon. :dance:

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  • 4 months later...

My thread here has been dormant for awhile, but I finally got a new phone that does high speed video AND an adaptor for a tripod, so I'm going to start updating a lot more now.  Here are a couple of videos from yesterday (a 7 iron and a driver):

Still working on (and failing at) straightening that right leg through impact.  The "jumping" feel.  Also noticed through these videos that my Key 1 is really, really bad....


And gotta work on the pitching motion as well ...

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IMO the head and tailbone are moving (early extension) in an effort to try and shallow things out. I'll put something together for you.

A3-5

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Quick summary of the video I sent you.

- A1- Right ear slightly closer to your right shoulder.

- "Softer" upper back throughout the entire backswing. I also mentioned the feeling of the sternum pointing towards the ground.

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@Golfingdad ,

Your videos are in safety mode, whatever that is.

Scott

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My thread here has been dormant for awhile, but I finally got a new phone that does high speed video AND an adaptor for a tripod, so I'm going to start updating a lot more now.  Here are a couple of videos from yesterday (a 7 iron and a driver):

Still working on (and failing at) straightening that right leg through impact.  The "jumping" feel.  Also noticed through these videos that my Key 1 is really, really bad....

And gotta work on the pitching motion as well ...

Those looked like pulls, or is that just camera distortion?

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@Golfingdad , Your videos are in safety mode, whatever that is.

Still working out the kinks. Like an ahole, I sent a slo-mo video of me putting a ball on a tee to some friends. ;). And I didn't realize that those above wouldn't come thru in their original (slo mo) format. Getting lots of help and will figure it out soon. [quote name="Ernest Jones" url="/t/60622/my-swing-golfingdad/420#post_1086961"]Those looked like pulls, or is that just camera distortion? [/quote]Not camera distortion. They were quite playable (slight pulls and even cut a pinch) but there were several other that session that were huuuuuge pulls. That's the downside. The upside is that I'm not hitting many of those giant and weak push cuts.

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First time out today working on stuff from Mike last week.  Right ear closer to right shoulder at address and softer upper back.


And, not surprisingly, from A3 on it looks the same.  Goal next time out - check that, right now here in my living room - will be to find that better A3 position.

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First time out today working on stuff from Mike last week.  Right ear closer to right shoulder at address and softer upper back. And, not surprisingly, from A3 on it looks the same.  Goal next time out - check that, right now here in my living room - will be to find that better A3 position.

A1 looks good. Really like how A2 looks, shoulder turn is more shallow. I'd be curious to see how it looks at A3 and 4 face-on.

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A1 looks good. Really like how A2 looks, shoulder turn is more shallow. I'd be curious to see how it looks at A3 and 4 face-on.

So this is a situation where I'd vote "mirror" in the mirror vs. video thread. :-P I have a picture of you that I want to get to, and if I continue to go to the range and videotape myself, then go home and watch it, it'll possibly take several iterations.  Each time trying to feel a little less around the back from A2-A4 but not getting the INSTANT feedback.  Last night, after posting, I just stood up and grabbed my old 7-iron and posed at A2-A3-A4 while checking my reflection in the window.

It'll still be a challenge but at least I already have a sense of what I need to feel.

And I'll try and get more FO today as well.

Thanks!!

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    • I'm not an "official" instructor but I've been helping people for a few years now. I find that most beginners never get taught a proper concept of how the swing works. I also find that most people need a better understanding of what the arms and hands do before even working on the grip or the rest of the body. This is because what your concept of how the arms work through the downswing will dictate how strong or weak your grip must be. And if your arms work correctly then you can get away with a lot of variation in the lower body and still hit the ball decently. This will be long by the way... now...I get technical because...well...if you're writing it, you have to make it understandable. So let's understand the swing structure of the left or lead arm. The clubhead is controlled by the left hand, the left hand is controlled by the left wrist which is made up of the two bones of the forearm; the ulna closest to the pinky finger and the radius closest to the thumb. The forearm is attached to but can work independently of the humorous or upper arm which ends at the shoulder joint. That's the structure you are working with. Now how each section of that structure can work in different ways so let's talk about them starting at the upper arm. You may have heard people use the term "external shoulder rotation." It's usually used in reference to the right arm but that's okay you need to understand it in the left arm as well. First off...that's not a correct term. The shoulder is a complex structure of three bones; the clavicle in the upper chest/neck area, the scapula or shoulder blade that glides across the back and the end of the humorous bone that is the upper arm. So when you hear that term what they really are saying is "external rotation of the humerus." A simple way to understand this is to think about arm wrestling. If you are arm wresting someone with your elbow on a table you are trying to force your opponents arm into external rotation while your upper arm would be internally rotating. If you are losing the wrestling match you will find that while your elbow stays in place, your forearm and hand will be pushed back behind the elbow as your humerus externally rotates. So in the golf swing we don't want to be the winner of the arm wrestling match... at any point in time! Both upper arms need to externally rotate. The right upper arm externally rotates in the backswing and stays in that position through impact or for some people just before but very close to impact. The left arm must externally rotate in the downswing from impact through the finish. Some people choose to set-up with both upper arms externally rotated...think elbows pointed at the hips or biceps up. Others will start with just the right arm in this position...some people describe it as the "giving blood" position. Others start with both elbows internally rotated...biceps facing inward toward each other. You can set-up whichever way feels best to you but in your backswing and downswing the upper arms MUST externally rotate. Now back to the left arm...with which you should try to control the swing...and the forearm. The forearm is where most people get in trouble because it can rotate left or right no matter which orientation your upper arm is in...try it...it's just how the forearm is structured to work. And this is where you MUST make the decision as to how you want the forearms to work in order to choose how strong or weak your grip must be. Ben Hogan in his book 5 Lessons uses the terms supination and pronation. To illustrate it simply grab a club in your left hand and hold it out in front of you. Rotate your forearm to where your knuckles point to the sky (this is pronation) and then rotate your forearm the other way so that your knuckles point to the ground (this is supination). When your lead forearm is in pronation (knuckles up) the ulna will be on the left side of the radius. In supination (knuckles down the ulna rotates under the radius and the radius is now on the left side of the ulna. Very important that you relate this to the position of the ulna. At the top of the backswing you should be in a position where you feel that the knuckles of the left hand are pointed to the sky. As you rotate your body open and your chest pulls your arms down and into impact you will need to be aware that your ulna stays on the left side of the radius as long as possible. This is the position instructors are trying to have you achieve by pulling the butt of the club into an invisible wall past your left leg while maintaining the 90 degree angle formed by the shaft and your forearm. You've probably seen or heard of that drill as we all have over the years. Now here is the IMPORTANT part that no one seems to ever speak of...what happens from there!?! From that position...ulna on the left side of the radius, shaft and the forearm at a 90 degree angle, hands directly over the ball...you have two choices. 1) You can keep the ulna traveling toward the target on the left side of the radius and only release (unhinge) the wrists to lower the clubhead down into the ball or 2) while you unhinge your left wrist you can rotate your left forearm from the pronated position (knuckles up) to the supinated position (knuckles down) and let the ulna rotate under and eventually to the right side of the radius. If you choose to release the club with method 1 you will need a strong grip. The clubface will stay stable and square to the target throughout the swing but you probably will lose distance and have a very spinny ball flight. If you choose to release the club with method 2 you will probably require a much weaker grip as the clubhead will be less stable as it closes down coming into impact. This method requires more timing but results in more power through impact and usually more distance. You may also hook the ball if you start with too strong of a grip or a closed clubface at address. Method 2 is what most pros use but not all. Method 1 is what causes most people to hit weak, spinny slices and requires an unusually strong grip because with method 1 the left forearm has a tendency to open more coming into impact where the ulna stays in front of the radius too long.    Here's the catch...you need to learn both releases. Release 1 is how you want to use your wedges when you want to make sure the bounce interacts with the turf or if you need to hit a cut from left to right around a tree. You'll get more height and more spin with release 1. Release 2 will let the leading edge tear through the turf taking a nice crisp divot and can be used to hook a ball from right to left. Congratulations to anyone that read through all of this! I believe that once your brain understands precisely how it needs to control the different parts of your body it can do it repetitively on command. Your swing will repeat and not fall apart from day to day. Learn how you want to use your forearms and you can choose your grip and clubface position at address. Either method will work and both methods are used by the best players in the world for different shots.
    • Day 330 - Mostly just partial swings today, so I could really focus on exaggerating my hips towards the target in my finish. 
    • Day 72 - 2024-12-11 /sees a picture of Chet after shaving with a saw, goes back to doing a little mirror work at AMG.
    • Day 147: more mirror work. Trying to hone in the backswing stuff real nice. 
    • If I was going to try to help someone fix a low snap hook without actually seeing their swing I would have to tell them to break down the problem into pieces. See if you can fix the "low" part of the problem first. A low ball flight tells me you are probably swinging level or hitting down on the ball instead of hitting up on it. Try teeing the ball higher than you are comfortable and put the ball up in your stance a little further up than comfortable...try putting it off your left heal or even the left toe. Try to feel like your club head is swinging up through impact. Try that first and see if it gets you to a high snap hook or a high pull hook.    If you want to address the hook part of the swing you are going to have to look at two areas of the swing as well as your concept of what the arms and hands do through impact. I love talking through this stuff with people but I'll only go into it further if you really want to go down that rabbit hole...you would have to say so. Swing well my friend!
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