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Second Chance

QUESTION: One ball rule

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Ok, after reviewing the rules... I'm still confused.

Let's say I go from a titleist pro V1 to a V1X, or a V1 to TM Lethal, or a Srixon XV-Star...(Same year of course :) )

Do I get penalized? It's the same type of ball--at least in my mind...

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Originally Posted by Second Chance

Ok, after reviewing the rules... I'm still confused.

Let's say I go from a titleist pro V1 to a V1X, or a V1 to TM Lethal, or a Srixon XV-Star...(Same year of course :) )

Do I get penalized? It's the same type of ball--at least in my mind...

Yes, if the tournament in which you're playing has that instituted as a condition of competition.

They're different makes and models of balls.

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The 'One ball' Condition of Competition should really only be used in elite level or pro competitions.

If you see it elsewhere it is because the committee think their comp is very grand.

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Originally Posted by Rulesman

The 'One ball' Condition of Competition should really only be used in elite level or pro competitions.

If you see it elsewhere it is because the committee think their comp is very grand.

Ok, rulesman... I play in state/regional/u.s. amatuer qualifiers and events. I consider these fairly high level competitions--so I'm just going to purchase one type of ball and stick with it.

I have to be honest though...this is stupid! Somedays I prefer different balls...why does it matter so much?

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Originally Posted by Second Chance

I have to be honest though...this is stupid! Somedays I prefer different balls...why does it matter so much?

Because you could play distance golf balls on long holes, spinny golf balls on holes that require a lot of spin (a tricky par three, a small green par 4), etc.

You can play a different ball on a different day. You cannot play a different ball the SAME day (more specifically, the same round - if you play 36 in one day you can switch balls between rounds) if the condition is in effect.

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And just to clarify, this condition is rarely seen outside of the professional ranks.  It was never used in any of the Colorado Golf Association tournaments I worked as a rules official.

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You have to remember that I can declare a Pro V1 on the first tee. What would stop me from saying that I lose my ball on the 5th hole and find a Lethal. I play that in and you notice that I am playing a different ball. I say, "Oh, I switched on the last tee box." Don't laugh I have actually seen somebody try to pull this. The one ball rule is there to simplify the process. If you announce on #1 that you are playing a Top Flite 1, them you have finish out every hole with a Top Flite 1. Easy breezy, japaneeeesy!

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Originally Posted by iacas

Because you could play distance golf balls on long holes, spinny golf balls on holes that require a lot of spin (a tricky par three, a small green par 4), etc.

You can play a different ball on a different day. You cannot play a different ball the SAME day (more specifically, the same round - if you play 36 in one day you can switch balls between rounds) if the condition is in effect.

I'm not talking about playing a distance ball and a tour ball. I'm talking about playing a different brand of tour ball...

TM Lethal or Pro V or Callaway Hex or Nike 20XI-S or Srixon Star-XV or Bridgestone BB330

Why does that matter?

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See ilikefishes response for why it matters. When I played in high school this was in effect which made it more difficult for people to cheat.

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Originally Posted by Second Chance

Quote:

Originally Posted by iacas

Because you could play distance golf balls on long holes, spinny golf balls on holes that require a lot of spin (a tricky par three, a small green par 4), etc.

You can play a different ball on a different day. You cannot play a different ball the SAME day (more specifically, the same round - if you play 36 in one day you can switch balls between rounds) if the condition is in effect.

I'm not talking about playing a distance ball and a tour ball. I'm talking about playing a different brand of tour ball...

TM Lethal or Pro V or Callaway Hex or Nike 20XI-S or Srixon Star-XV or Bridgestone BB330

Why does that matter?

Because the tournament committee wants to eliminate that variable from play.  It doesn't matter whether there is a perceived advantage or a perceptible  difference between the balls.  It is simply a way of ensuring that no player gains an advantage by changing balls. The best way to guarantee that is to require the exact same brand and model during a given round.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by iacas View Post

Because you could play distance golf balls on long holes, spinny golf balls on holes that require a lot of spin (a tricky par three, a small green par 4), etc.

You can play a different ball on a different day. You cannot play a different ball the SAME day (more specifically, the same round - if you play 36 in one day you can switch balls between rounds) if the condition is in effect.

I'm not talking about playing a distance ball and a tour ball. I'm talking about playing a different brand of tour ball...

TM Lethal or Pro V or Callaway Hex or Nike 20XI-S or Srixon Star-XV or Bridgestone BB330

Why does that matter?

You announce the ball and # you are playing at the beginning of the round. You have to play that ball all the easy through the round. If for instance, you showed up with 6 Pro V1 #3's and lost them all before you finished the 18th hole. You would be DISQUALIFIED. It matters because people cheat and those are the rules of the game. Just like you can't carry 15 clubs, kick the ball from behind a tree or mark your ball in front and then replace it behind the ball. Hope this clarifies it a little for you.

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Originally Posted by ilikefishes

You have to remember that I can declare a Pro V1 on the first tee. What would stop me from saying that I lose my ball on the 5th hole and find a Lethal. I play that in and you notice that I am playing a different ball. I say, "Oh, I switched on the last tee box." Don't laugh I have actually seen somebody try to pull this.

The one ball rule is there to simplify the process. If you announce on #1 that you are playing a Top Flite 1, them you have finish out every hole with a Top Flite 1. Easy breezy, japaneeeesy!

Huh?  You cannot change the brand and model of ball but you can change the number on the ball, which has nothing to do with its playing characteristics.

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The important thing is to verify the conditions of competition. If there is no "one-ball" requirement for the particular tournament, then the above do's and don't's are not applicable. Few amateur competitions utilize the one-ball rule.

And the post that says you MUST have the same number on all the balls you put in play is incorrect . From the USGA Rules Appendix 1, Part C (concerning the one-ball rule only): "During a stipulated round, the balls a player plays must be of the same brand and model as detailed by a single entry on the current List of Conforming Golf Balls. "

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Originally Posted by Second Chance

I'm not talking about playing a distance ball and a tour ball. I'm talking about playing a different brand of tour ball...

TM Lethal or Pro V or Callaway Hex or Nike 20XI-S or Srixon Star-XV or Bridgestone BB330

Why does that matter?

Because the two balls do not have exactly the same performance characteristics unless they are the same model.

Good rules are black and white, not a mess of grey areas.

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I reckon the CoC will become virtually unused within a few years. The top players can make almost any ball do circus tricks.

My suspicion is that it is driven by the manufacturers to ensure 'their man' stays with 'their ball'

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@Harmonious, I am not sure how the USGA uses/interprets the 1 ball rule. In PGA tournaments it is same brand, model and number. Most of us use 1 # on the ball anyways. Superstition and all.

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Originally Posted by ilikefishes

@Harmonious, I am not sure how the USGA uses/interprets the 1 ball rule. In PGA tournaments it is same brand, model and number. Most of us use 1 # on the ball anyways. Superstition and all.

No it's not. Most players will stick to a single number out of superstition as you said, but it's not a single number. It's just make and model (and year, if you don't consider that part of "model").

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