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Got fitted, now to find irons that will work, but not break the bank


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So I got fitted yesterday by a teaching pro at my course. We went through the normal stuff, trying different heads, shafts, lengths, lies, all that stuff. So my results are as follows.

For a 6 iron

-38 inches in length

-66° lie

-stiff

-light weight shaft (110g was best weight for me)

-low deflection shaft

-some offset (he said I shouldn't be going GI offset like pings or anything, but I need a little bit)

The irons that I had priced out and was ready to buy, were some rocketbladez tours for $300. Turns out, those won't work. As I'm not exactly an "off the rack" kinda guy. So I'm looking to find a decently cheap set of irons with these specs. If they are forged, I can bend them myself to the lie I need. As for the length, I would rather not spend the money to get all the irons lengthened and then buy all new grips and they install all of them, but if the set is otherwise perfect I'd be find with that. Stiff is a must. The shaft I am hoping to stick to fairly closely, obviously it doesn't have to be exactly 110g but just ballpark. And the offset is also fairly flexible. So if anyone has a set like this, knows a guy with a set, knows where I can find a set, knows how to find it cheap, anything, please post. My price range is hopefully anything under 450. $300 is ideal, but that pretty unrealistic I suppose haha. I will be scouring the internet and calling pro shops and stuff, but if anyone here has anything that would help me, it would be much appreciated. Thank you!

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How many irons will you need in the set? if you're going 3-PW it will be harder to fit in your budget. Something like a 6 club set would be a lot easier.

My recommendation would be to go with component heads so you can choose your shafts and grips, and I recommend golfworks or hireko. You may be pushing your luck going with that upright of a lie angle though. Bending them that much could risk damage unless the steel is resilient to bending; I'd ask or check if they can be bent that much safely. Your other options would be to go with an older model of irons at a deep discount such as from rockbottomgolf, or to shop around for used models. You won't have much control over the shafts and grips in these cases, which is why I prefer components.

As for your fit, are you over 6'6" by any chance, or have tyrannosaurus arms? That's about a +4 lie and +1 inch length which is extreme on both counts... And what about grip size? If you're not well outside the norm in terms of build I would be wary of those numbers.

In My Bag:

Adams Super LS 9.5˚ driver, Aldila Phenom NL 65TX
Adams Super LS 15˚ fairway, Kusala black 72x
Adams Super LS 18˚ fairway, Aldila Rip'd NV 75TX
Adams Idea pro VST hybrid, 21˚, RIP Alpha 105x
Adams DHY 24˚, RIP Alpha 89x
5-PW Maltby TE irons, KBS C taper X, soft stepped once 130g
Mizuno T4, 54.9 KBS Wedge X
Mizuno R12 60.5, black nickel, KBS Wedge X
Odyssey Metal X #1 putter 
Bridgestone E5, Adidas samba bag, True Linkswear Stealth
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How many irons will you need in the set? if you're going 3-PW it will be harder to fit in your budget. Something like a 6 club set would be a lot easier.

My recommendation would be to go with component heads so you can choose your shafts and grips, and I recommend golfworks or hireko. You may be pushing your luck going with that upright of a lie angle though. Bending them that much could risk damage unless the steel is resilient to bending; I'd ask or check if they can be bent that much safely. Your other options would be to go with an older model of irons at a deep discount such as from rockbottomgolf, or to shop around for used models. You won't have much control over the shafts and grips in these cases, which is why I prefer components.

As for your fit, are you over 6'6" by any chance, or have tyrannosaurus arms? That's about a +4 lie and +1 inch length which is extreme on both counts... And what about grip size? If you're not well outside the norm in terms of build I would be wary of those numbers.

Well I was hoping for a 4-AW set actually, because that is what fits in my bag, but 4-PW would probably work because I only take full swings with my AW about half the time. And I am 6'4", and I don't know my wingspan exactly but I have pretty long arms. He didn't fit me based on measurements though, he just used tape on my club, and gave me different lie angles until the mark on the tape was in the middle of the club. And yes I was hoping for a used set with roughly those specs, and my pro said that if I got a forged set that wasn't already bent flat at all, he could get it to 4-5 degrees upright. Oh and I forgot to mention I need midsize grips. But that is also fixable if the set doesn't come with them.

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Well I was hoping for a 4-AW set actually, because that is what fits in my bag, but 4-PW would probably work because I only take full swings with my AW about half the time. And I am 6'4", and I don't know my wingspan exactly but I have pretty long arms. He didn't fit me based on measurements though, he just used tape on my club, and gave me different lie angles until the mark on the tape was in the middle of the club. And yes I was hoping for a used set with roughly those specs, and my pro said that if I got a forged set that wasn't already bent flat at all, he could get it to 4-5 degrees upright. Oh and I forgot to mention I need midsize grips. But that is also fixable if the set doesn't come with them.

Ok, 6'4" is pretty reasonable for those measurements. I would agree with looking into a forged set with a softer steel to make the bending easier.

I have the maltby TE irons and I love them, relatively forgiving and solid plus they would likely bend easily enough being forged heads. However they don't have much offset. I would take a look at them and maybe run them by your pro if you like how they look, they're only 25$ a head and they can be built for you, though I doubt they'd bend them 4 degrees. You can pick any shaft you like, though I'd recommend looking at KBS due to their wide range of profiles and the fact that most of them have progressive weights, putting most of the stiff flex models in the 110-120 range. I'd suggest looking at the KBS tour; if you want something a bit cheaper then the dynamic gold SL is around 110 grams I think, though it's a bit lower launching. Other than those there are plenty of good options as well.

A lot of companies consider anything more than 2 degrees to be risky so they leave that to the customer. And it may be tough to match a forged club with more than slight offset, as the two tend to be features of different types of irons.

Other than that, I'd look at Pings with a white, maroon, or silver dot configuration. They use the color codes to denote the specs of fitted clubs, making them a good used brand to look at. They make a lot of forgiving clubs with offset but they're one of the few companies to put out +3 3/4 and +4 1/2 degree lies. http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls;=en&q;=ping+g15+maroon+dot+irons&ie;=UTF-8&oe;=UTF-8#q=ping+g15+silver+dot+irons&rls;=en

G15 irons are a couple years old but they perform well and cost less than half of a new set. Any ping iron with the same color code should be almost the same specs, so if the G15 don't turn up keep looking perhaps at the i series or other years.

In My Bag:

Adams Super LS 9.5˚ driver, Aldila Phenom NL 65TX
Adams Super LS 15˚ fairway, Kusala black 72x
Adams Super LS 18˚ fairway, Aldila Rip'd NV 75TX
Adams Idea pro VST hybrid, 21˚, RIP Alpha 105x
Adams DHY 24˚, RIP Alpha 89x
5-PW Maltby TE irons, KBS C taper X, soft stepped once 130g
Mizuno T4, 54.9 KBS Wedge X
Mizuno R12 60.5, black nickel, KBS Wedge X
Odyssey Metal X #1 putter 
Bridgestone E5, Adidas samba bag, True Linkswear Stealth
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Ok, 6'4" is pretty reasonable for those measurements. I would agree with looking into a forged set with a softer steel to make the bending easier.

I have the maltby TE irons and I love them, relatively forgiving and solid plus they would likely bend easily enough being forged heads. However they don't have much offset. I would take a look at them and maybe run them by your pro if you like how they look, they're only 25$ a head and they can be built for you, though I doubt they'd bend them 4 degrees. You can pick any shaft you like, though I'd recommend looking at KBS due to their wide range of profiles and the fact that most of them have progressive weights, putting most of the stiff flex models in the 110-120 range. I'd suggest looking at the KBS tour; if you want something a bit cheaper then the dynamic gold SL is around 110 grams I think, though it's a bit lower launching. Other than those there are plenty of good options as well.

A lot of companies consider anything more than 2 degrees to be risky so they leave that to the customer. And it may be tough to match a forged club with more than slight offset, as the two tend to be features of different types of irons.

Other than that, I'd look at Pings with a white, maroon, or silver dot configuration. They use the color codes to denote the specs of fitted clubs, making them a good used brand to look at. They make a lot of forgiving clubs with offset but they're one of the few companies to put out +3 3/4 and +4 1/2 degree lies. http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls;=en&q;=ping+g15+maroon+dot+irons&ie;=UTF-8&oe;=UTF-8#q=ping+g15+silver+dot+irons&rls;=en

G15 irons are a couple years old but they perform well and cost less than half of a new set. Any ping iron with the same color code should be almost the same specs, so if the G15 don't turn up keep looking perhaps at the i series or other years.

Wow thank you, that definitely helps. And also the a little bit of offset is perfect. He told me not to get a lot of offset, but he said also that a club with absolutely zero offset might be a little tough. And that is probably the aspect I am least concerned about.

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Zero offset is pretty rare. The TE forged heads all have .1" which is typical of most short irons these days, but the longer irons can range from .15 to .3 or more. It's a bit unusual for the clubs not to  increase their amount of offset into the longer irons, but I have no trouble hitting the 3-5 irons in this set. They feel very soft and interact well with the turf, and they are a bit of a tweener iron because they're forgiving enough for a high 20s handicap which I was when I first got them, but I don't launch them too high like other forgiving irons and the look suits my eye for aiming. I could easily ride these irons for a couple more years even if I get better. They also gap nicely and look good in the bag, and are good workhorses for the money.

It's not something to worry about too much but I don't know whether the pro was giving you a general tip on picking good irons or if he thinks you'd benefit from more offset. I'd contact him with the specs if possible just to see what he thinks but those are a very affordable and versatile club.

I also like that the hosel can accept either .370 or .355 tip shafts, since some iron shafts don't come in both sizes. Pretty much any shaft whether it be steel or graphite will be usable with these, so I'd consider your budget and fitting info.

http://www.golfworks.com/article.asp_Q_ai_E_496

This tool will give you some suggestions on shafts, the 4 number/letter code indicates the flex, (a 4 is about stiff) preference for distance, control, or both (I'd advise either C or B but B will probably include more of the lighter shafts) 1-3 is your preferred trajectory with 1 being low and 3 being high (2 or 1 are probably best unless you struggle to elevate the ball) and finally you should ignore the last digit more or less. It indicates what your miss is, with S indicating a shaft that might help a slicer and H to straighten out a hook. Either H or M are fine for irons as this number seems to be based mainly on torque, which isn't a major concern with irons. The last digit might narrow it down but I wouldn't put too much emphasis on it for irons.

So I'd look at the list of shaft ratings for a ballpark estimate of what fits you, or at least what's aimed at golfers like you. 4B2M or 4B2H are probably your best bets so I'd look over the shafts in these categories for something you might like in terms of price and features.

Finally, Pure grips make a midsize model, and they are awesome (I have them on my irons now). You can blow them on and off with a compressor instead of using tape, which is faster and cleaner by a huge amount. If you don't go the compressor route with the grips then it's pretty much a matter of preference.

As a final thought, if you do go with the TE forged, I'd suggest white ferrules if you're interested. They have the model number 86PI on the site and they look really cool:

Custom irons are great because you can get this kind of stuff. The head's hanging at an odd angle so the heads aren't that short in real life.

In My Bag:

Adams Super LS 9.5˚ driver, Aldila Phenom NL 65TX
Adams Super LS 15˚ fairway, Kusala black 72x
Adams Super LS 18˚ fairway, Aldila Rip'd NV 75TX
Adams Idea pro VST hybrid, 21˚, RIP Alpha 105x
Adams DHY 24˚, RIP Alpha 89x
5-PW Maltby TE irons, KBS C taper X, soft stepped once 130g
Mizuno T4, 54.9 KBS Wedge X
Mizuno R12 60.5, black nickel, KBS Wedge X
Odyssey Metal X #1 putter 
Bridgestone E5, Adidas samba bag, True Linkswear Stealth
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Ok so I found a bunch of sets that might work. Almost all of them will require adjustments, but most of them are cheap enough to where I can pay for those adjustments and still be in my price range. Let me know what you guys think.

All of these are forged I believe besides the last one, so I can bend all of them. Most of them are cheap enough so I can lengthen them and not worry about breaking my price range. Also, be sure to remember when I lengthen it by an inch, it automatically adds 1 degree to the lie angle, so really if it was standard, I would only have to bend it 3 or 4 degrees instead of 4 or 5.

http://www.2ndswing.com/p-225467-callaway-x-forged-iron-set-4-pw-project-x-flighted-6-0-steel-stiff-right-38-in.aspx#details

http://www.2ndswing.com/p-197352-callaway-x-forged-iron-set-4-pw-steel-stiff-right-38-25-in.aspx

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TITLEIST-AP2-FORGED-5-PW-GW-IRONS-IRONS-SET-w-DG-HL-S300-Steel-STIFF-/351003347885?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash;=item51b96e0bad

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSTOM-NIKE-GOLF-CLUBS-VR-FORGED-AND-CAVITY-BACK-IRON-SET-STIFF-FLEX-SHAFTS-/370975532465?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash;=item565fdd65b1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TAYLOR-MADE-2011-TOUR-PREFERRED-MC-FORGED-5-PW-IRONS-IRON-SET-w-Project-X-5-5-/331134629815?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash;=item4d192977b7

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adams-CB1-Pro-Black-Forged-4-PW-KBS-Stiff-/231162973927?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash;=item35d2630ee7

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Callaway-X-Forged-2009-Iron-set-3-PW-RH-Stiff-shaft-/151238350533?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash;=item23368216c5

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ping-i15-Iron-Set-4-PW-Steel-Stiff-Left-39-25-Silver-Dot-/350986251533?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash;=item51b8692d0d

(this set was the only one where it was actually TOO long and TOO upright, but I'm not sure exactly what the lie is. It was lengthened by 1.5 inches, and they are silver dot ping irons which means they are 3.75 degrees upright. But, does the added length add to the lie also? So it was 3.75 upright with the silver dot, then since you add 1 degree for every inch of extra length, is it really 5.25 upright? So what would my lie be if I cut these down by half an inch? Can my pro bend these irons for me? Because I'm pretty sure they aren't forged, but I thought I remembered someone saying you can bend pings.)

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Well, I've got to question the knowledge if you're not getting Pings because of GI offset.

Not all Pings have a lot of offset -- just like all Callaways don't have a lot of offset.

PGA Touring Pros play Ping models that do not have a lot of offset.

But good luck to you. Spending $300 for a custom set that actually is consistent between clubs and to spec is impossible.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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Well first of all I never associated ALL ping irons with a large amount of offset, I just know that some ping sets, especially the G series, have a lot of offset. And also, I even posted a set of I15's on this thread, so obviously I know they are irons I can play. And also, I realize 300 for a set I need is slightly unrealistic. I said that, exactly that way, in the original post. I also said I was thinking around 450. But thank you for s***ing all over this thread with you're pessimistic and elitist views. [quote name="Mr. Desmond" url="/t/72689/got-fitted-now-to-find-irons-that-will-work-but-not-break-the-bank#post_954347"]Well, I've got to question the knowledge if you're not getting Pings because of GI offset. Not all Pings have a lot of offset -- just like all Callaways don't have a lot of offset. PGA Touring Pros play Ping models that do not have a lot of offset. But good luck to you. Spending $300 for a custom set that actually is consistent between clubs and to spec is impossible. [/quote]
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Well first of all I never associated ALL ping irons with a large amount of offset, I just know that some ping sets, especially the G series, have a lot of offset. And also, I even posted a set of I15's on this thread, so obviously I know they are irons I can play. And also, I realize 300 for a set I need is slightly unrealistic. I said that, exactly that way, in the original post. I also said I was thinking around 450. But thank you for s***ing all over this thread with you're pessimistic and elitist views.

I don't always help, but when I do, I prefer to :poo: all over a thread with pessimistic and elitist views.

:whistle:

Callaway XHot Pros

http://www.callawaygolfpreowned.com/irons-x-hot-pro-2013/irons-x-hot-pro-2013,default,pd.html?cgid=iron-sets

XForged

http://www.callawaygolfpreowned.com/irons-x-forged-2013/irons-x-forged-2013,default,pd.html?cgid=iron-sets

You can typically find coupon codes for Callaway preowned - typically 20%

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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Callaway preowned -   $25 off purchase of $125 (not much but something) till 022814

RMN25CAL

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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Ping g25 are medium offset. I25 even less. Karstons lots. I don't think he was trying to be elitist and dump on your post. Just point out that offset varies you got it wrong on your original post regarding the the g series.

Driver G with Tour 65 shaft 10.5 neutral setting by :ping:
3W G30, #3 and #4 Hybrid, Irons 5 to GW G25 by :ping:
54 & 58 Glide Wedges and putter Cadence TR Anser 2  Traditional also by :ping:
Ball TriSpeed Tour by :srixon: Shoes M Project Wide by :footjoy:
Bag and Push cart by :sunmountain:

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Thank you Desmond for the code, although I think I've found my set. (And guys, like I said earlier, offset was the least of my worries out of all the criteria. But thanks for the info on the G series, they always looked like they had a ton of offset at address to me for some reason.) Anyway, this is the set I am going for most likely. What do you guys think? I sent all those links to the guy that fit me and he recommended these, and they seem good to me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adams-CB1-Pro-Black-Forged-4-PW-KBS-Stiff-/231162973927?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash;=item35d2630ee7#shpCntId

I like the look of the CB1 head a lot. The dark finish just looks super nice. And I am thinking about doing a red paintfill job on them, which I think would look pretty cool. It is definitely a players iron, which I am looking forward to because I've been playing RAC OS's, which are pretty intense GI clubs. I am not too worried about the difference in forgiveness and such, because my ballstriking has recently improved drastically thanks to some off season rebuilding. Then the shaft, which is a KBS tour 90 Stiff. Seems like the perfect shaft for me. The pro that fit me said to get a light shaft with a low kick point for high trajectory. This shaft is 102g with a high trajectory and high spin, and all the reviews I can find on it are amazing. I am a little worried it might not be stiff enough, because I am sure it is not as stiff as a normal weighted stiff KBS tour. I haven't measured my swing speed in a long time but my 7 iron is my 165 club in the summer. And that was with very ill-fitting clubs. I was playing the Taylormade RAC OS irons with a regular shaft and standard length and lie. These clubs will be a drastic improvement. Should I be worried about the stiffness? Anyway, once I get these clubs I will have to take the grips off, extend them by an inch, regrip them, and bend them 3.25* upright. It would be 4.25*, but the extra inch adds a degree. The extending, if I have it done by a shop in my area, should cost 8 bucks a club, $56. Then the new grips will cost around $60. I can install those myself. Hopefully my teaching pro will just show me the ropes to bending and help me do it for free, or maybe I'll just pay someone at our club to do it. So after I buy the clubs, I will spend around $110-150. The irons on ebay are currently at like $100, so they can go as high as $300 and I won't break my price range. Hopefully they stay low though haha.

EDIT:Whoops, got that wrong about the extending 1 inch part. Turns out the CB1 6 iron is already 37.5", so I will only be extending by half an inch. Which means I will be bending them 3.75*.

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Good clubs if you don't mind a bit of rust showing up.

In my  bag:

Driver, Callaway Diablo Edge Tour 9.5 stiff

3, 5 woods: Callaway Diablo Edge Tour 15,18 degrees Stiff

2 hybrid: Callaway Diable Edge Tour 18 degrees R (out when the 5 wood is in)

3,6 hybrids: Callaway Diablo Edge 21 S and 30 degrees R

4,5 hybrids: Callaway Razr X HL 24 and 27 degrees Stiff

7-AW irons: Callaway Razr HL graphite R shafts 

SW 54 Callaway X Series Jaws CC Slate Fujikura Graphite Stiff

Putter: Odessey White Ice 1 Blade Putter. 

Ball...looking for any ball that hates water, sand, long grass, and getting lost in the woods. 

I can't find any, so forced to use ones that seem to love all the above. 

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Easy and way cheaper to extend them yourself.

~Justin

R11 9.5* w/Matrix Ozik Code 6.2
Taylormade 14* V-Steel w/ProLaunch Blue
Taylormade 16.5* V-Steel w/Aldila NV
Taylormade 21* V-Steel w/Dyanlite Gold S300
Mizuno MX 23 5-6 w/Rifel 5.5 SSx2
Mizuno MP 32 7-PW w/Rifel 5.5 SSx2
Callaway X-Forged 52*, 56*, 60*
Mizuno 0803 Custom Slighter

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Well it's kind of a crazy story, but today I dropped by golfsmith just to check out their used section before I bout the CB1's on ebay. My swing coach knows the guys there and told me to tell them that he sent me, so I get there and tell them that, I give them my specs, and they bring me to the used rack. I instantly spot a set of CB1's just like the ones on ebay. 4-pw. So I take them down, and they are the KBS tour 90's, just like the ebay set. Wow, I just found the exact set of clubs I was looking at and I don't have to have them shipped so I can get them immediately, when before they weren't going to get here till march 3rd at the earliest, which is the first day of my golf season, and I would still have to do a bunch of adjusting with the length and lie. Problem is, these are $300, and the ebay set bidding was only at $120. But me and the guy helping me out headed over to the launch monitors anyway, with 3 irons from this set and 3 from my set. I hit them for quite a while, hitting long, mid, and short irons from both my set and the CB1's comparing numbers and feel. But about 5 minutes into hitting, I asked the guy helping me out if they were standard length and lie, assuming to hear yes. He said that the irons actually belonged to one of the employees there, and he was in the back. He went and got him, and turns out, they were bent 3* upright and lengthened half an inch. And the CB1 stock 6 iron shaft is originally 37.5" actually, which made the 6 iron 38", my exact spec. And the stock lie is 61.75*, and he bent them 3* which made them 64.75*, plus the added half an inch which adds 1* so 65.75*, only .25* off of my spec, which was 66*. (I was told today that it is actually 1 degree for every HALF inch added to the length. I've heard it 3 ways now, so anyone that knows FOR SURE let me know what it actually is.) So basically these irons were made for me. And the guy said he would give me 10% off so I can get them for $270. Picking them up tomorrow. The only thing I will do probably is replace the grips, because they are decently worn, still usable but I was fitted for midsize grips and these are standard. So moral of the story, it IS possible to get irons for your exact specs for under $300!

P.S. The ebay irons sold for only $137 +20 for shipping, so I miiiight have been able to do it a bit cheaper if I bought those by doing the gripping myself and helping my pro out with the bending and lengthening, but also I would not have had them in time for my golf season. And it would have taken quite a few man hours. So overall, I'm pretty happy with these.

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    • Meanwhile, another old Tour Edge guy switches to Callaway for this season. I have a different problem, course dependent set-ups. What I’m wondering is if @dragonsmhas the 8 iron set 5-PW, AW, GW or just 5-PW, GW. Because the PW is 42°, AW 47°, and GW 52°. Because that could potentially be a gap there. The 5-iron to 6-iron length jump is 5/8” instead of 1/2” so you should be careful of that.    @WUTiger the problem most people have with 3-woods is they don’t play them far enough back into their stance. And they usually don’t have enough loft and the shaft is too long. So 3HL, 4 or 5-wood is probably better for most golfers. I do the “Frankenwood” approach. I have both the 3+ and 5 woods. I typically will either add two degrees to the 3+ on 6600 yards or longer courses, or take a degree off the 5-wood on shorter courses than 6300 or so, and use the 5-wood shaft for both. I don’t usually find a situation where I need both the 3 and 5 wood on a course. I don’t play from 7000 yards it’s no fun. Edit: I mostly agree with @WUTiger on the gapping, although a lot of the newer even fixed hosel fairway woods are made better than what we had when we were playing the old Exotics XRails.
    • Wordle 1,013 4/6* ⬛🟦🟦⬛⬛ ⬛🟦⬛🟦🟦 🟧⬛🟧🟧🟧 🟧🟧🟧🟧🟧 par is good after a double bogey yesterday.
    • I did read the fine print tonight. It said replace with “similar features & function”.  8 yeas ago my purchase had features that today are available on the lower end models and the current version of my model has more “bells & whistles” than what I got 8 years ago.  So I am thinking they honored the agreement and I can’t argue the offer. since getting a credit for the full purchase price all I am really out over the past 8 years was the cost of the extended warranty, which was less than a low end  treadmill would have cost me. now the question is which model to replace with.  I’ll stay with Nordic Track or I forfeit the $1,463 credit so I will get Nordic Track.  And they honored the warranty and were not hard to work with which is a plus.
    • Generally speaking, extended warranties are a terrible deal and should almost always be avoided. They are a huge profit center for the companies that offer them, which should tell you almost everything you need to know about how much value most consumers get when purchasing them.  This is correct, and the old adage applies - only buy insurance when you can't afford the loss. This usually doesn't apply to most consumer goods.  To your second question, no I don't believe the offer is fair. They are replacing it, but it is not being replaced at "no cost to you". Since the amount being disputed (over $500) is non-trivial, I would probably push the issue. Don't waste your time on the phone with a customer service agent or a supervisor. They have probably given you all they have the authority to do. Rather, I would look at the terms of your agreement and specifically legal disputes. The odds are you probably agreed to binding arbitration in the event of a dispute. The agreement will outline what steps need to be followed, but it will probably look something like this.  1. Mail the Nordic Track legal department outlining your dispute and indicate you are not satisfied with the resolution offered.  2. Open up a case with the AAA (American Arbitration Association), along with the required documentation. 3. Wait about 4-5 weeks for a case to be opened - at which point someone from Nordic Track's legal department will offer to give you the new model at no cost to you.  They certainly don't want to spend the time and energy to fight you over $500. 4. Enjoy your new Nordic Track at no cost to you. I recently entered binding arbitration against a fairly large and well known company that screwed me over and refused to make it right. In my demand letter, I made a pretty sizeable request that included compensation for my time and frustration. Once it hit their legal department, they cut me a check - no questions asked. It was far cheaper to settle with me than to send their legal team to defend them in the arbitration.
    • I never thought of looking at it on multiple purchases like you said.  Yes, the extended may help me on 1 or 2 items but not the other 5 or 6.
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